Painting Holidays in Provence 2019

Many of my readers and travel-planning clients ask about painting workshops in Provence...and I've found some wonderful instructors happy to give half- and full-day lessons. (Interested? See some here and then email me: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com.)  But if you'd like something more comprehensive, you might consider a trip devoted mostly or entirely to painting. (Sounds like heaven, no?) Most of these painting holidays last about a week, with accommodations ranging from rustic to highly refined. They happen all over Provence in spring, summer and fall...and I'm hearing about new ones often. So once again I've gathered a sample for you here, chosen because they're either led by painters I know and admire, or are recommended by people I trust, or they look really promising online. I've included a few in the Languedoc as well (it's not really Provence but, who cares?) For questions about anything you see listed here, please contact the organizer or instructor directly. If you see a workshop that you like, definitely book soon...the best ones always fill up quickly. 

* The talented watercolor artist Tessa Baker, originally from London, is one of the most popular instructors in Provence, where she has lived full time since 1985. This year, she's offering four week-long watercolor workshops here, plus one in the Charentes region and one in Arizona/Utah. The Provence workshops that still have space available are as follows: Luberon, Les Baux, Camargue and More (June 8 to 15), Lavender Fields of Valensole including the Lac Sainte Croix and Moustiers (June 22 to 29) and Autumn in Provence (Oct 12 to 19). "Painting is a joyful moment in time so I encourage students enjoy, laugh, have fun, create," Tessa says. "And it seems to work very well!" For info: paintprovencewithtess.com, tessabakerart@gmail.com.

* Philip Levine, founder and first president of the Art Students League of Denver, has been organizing painting workshops for 25 years in France (all regions), Italy, Portugal, England, Greece, the Netherlands, Cuba, Argentina, San Miguel de Allende – Mexico and in New York City, where he lives in Greenwich Village. In France, he’s organized workshops in La Rochelle, Paris, Giverny, Honfleur, Beaune and in Brittany. This year he and French artist Jean-Louis Diaz are co-teaching a workshop in Aix but with a full cultural immersion experience including a cooking class, wine tasting, a visit to Cezanne’s studio and day trips to paint in Gordes and in St Remy at the ‘Van Gogh asylum' where Vincent checked himself in after a falling out with his buddy Gauguin. The dates are September 14 to 22 and all the info is here. 

* This year, Workshops in France is running six Provence painting trips. Three 10-day uninstructed "art retreats" are being offered from a château in the Luberon near Aix for "Lavender Season" in June with "Glorious Provence" and Encore Provence" in September-October. These retreats include 10 days of artistic immersion (mentoring available) and daily painting sessions in private vineyards, small fishing ports, charming villages, markets, on the Van Gogh trail and more. There's plenty to do for non-painting travel partners as well, program director Julie Snyder tells me.  Click here for details. In addition, three workshops with master instructors are scheduled in early May, June and mid-September. The artists for these trips will stay and work in a château above the hillside village of Chateauneuf de Gadagne, not far from Avignon, and again, there's plenty for non-painting partners to do.  Click here for details. Workshops in France also accepts drop-in guests for the day. For info: workshopsinfrance.com, julie@workshopsinfrance.com.

* Jill Steenhuis is an Atlanta-born, French Impressionistic painter who lives in Aix, where she taught painting and drawing (at the American University) for ten years. In addition to leading Cezanne and Van Gogh walking tours for American museums and art lovers, Jill offers week-long oil painting workshops in the Provencal countryside for all ability levels. (For those who share her passion for Cezanne and Van Gogh,  arrangements can be made to paint on the very sites where they did.)  Workshops are designed for both confirmed painters and beginners, focusing on experiencing nature through the senses and encouraging each student to "bring out his own inner poetry." Jill continues: "My joy comes from watching the beginner or more-advanced painter climb a mountain in their creative way and in their inner soul." 2019 dates are May 17 to 25,  July 5 to 13 and Sept 13 to 21. This year Jill will also lead a number of two-day workshops in the US; contact her for info. For info: artinprovence.com, jillsteenhuis@gmail.com.

* Since 1990, David and Liz Atkinson have run Arts in Provence in the tiny hamlet of Les Bassacs, with its commanding views over  the Luberon Mountains and the Vaucluse. Surrounded by cherry orchards, vineyards and olive groves, Les Bassacs is within easy reach of the well-known villages of Gordes, Lacoste and Bonnieux. Workshops of varying lengths are led by different artists reflecting a wide range of styles and themes. This year there are 14 of them, between early May and late September, and the group size is always 12 max. artsinprovence.com, artsinprovence@gmail.com.

* Provence Art Experience will host five workshops this year: three based in Arles and two in the Luberon. All workshops feature "gourmet cuisine, local organic wines, off-the-beaten-path excursions and plein air painting," with instruction by five different artists. For info: provence-art-experience.com,  mathieu.brousses@gmail.com.

* Atelier Provence (July 1 to 12) combines a 7-day painting workshop in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence with a 4-day art-history tour in Barcelona. This is a great opportunity to paint in plein air (lavender fields, ochre cliffs, Cézanne’s beloved Mont St. Victoire), learn art history and theory, visit Barcelona’s greatest art sites and enjoy famous Provencal and Catalan cuisine and wines...in an intimate environment fostering creativity and fun. Visit Cézanne’s studio in Aix, Gaudi’s marvelous Sagrada Familia, the Picasso and Miró Museums and much more. Atelier Provence is sponsored by Walk The Arts, which has been hosting workshops in Europe since 1997. The price (US$2800) includes painting instruction, lectures, 11-night double accommodation (7 in Provence, 4 in Barcelona), most meals, all ground transport including high-speed train Avignon to Barcelona and entry fees to museums and sites. For info: walkthearts.com, info@walkthearts.com.

* This year, French Escapade is offering four 8-day painting vacations in Provence--each led by a different instructor--plus four workshops in the French Alps and two on the French Riviera. Choose from oils, watercolor or journal sketching. Groups are 12 people max and prices start at $2,990 for a double. From an ideal base location, guests are taken on a wide variety of daily painting excursions in a comfortable van; the company says you can expect gourmet food, high-quality cultural visits and fully bi-lingual tour leaders that stay with you throughout. French Escapade also has workshops this year in Spain, Belgium/Holland, Tuscany and San Francisco. For info: frenchescapade.com, contact@frenchescapade.com. 

* Julia Morgan, a Massachusetts-based painter who's led workshops around the world since 2011, will host a 10-day springtime journey in Provence, taking students from the scarlet poppy fields flanking Mont Saint Victoire to the perched stone villages of the Vaucluse to the olive groves and flower fields that Van Gogh painted during his year in St. Remy. Part #1 (5 days) will base in Aix, in a gracious Provencal home not far from Cezanne's studio. From Aix you'll visit wild red-earth landscapes just outside of town (where Cezanne painted the many views of his beloved Mont St. Victoire) and Lourmarin (with Camus’s castle) and more. And of course you'll explore Aix’s famous markets, where the group will set up to sketch. Part #2 will be spent near St. Remy, with lodging in a gorgeous, historic "hameau," with a 500-year-old mill, wisteria-draped terraces, an art studio and a pool. Visit the clinic where Van Gogh spent a year and painted Starry Night and other famous scenes;  explore the beauty of the Alpilles mountains and the towns that lie in their shadow. An excursion to the Luberon includes Gordes, Roussillon and the Abbaye de Senanque. Another day you'll experience the Carrieres des Lumieres, an extremely unique sound-and-light show focused on Picasso, in an old bauxite quarry. And you'll have plenty of time in the Wednesday market in St. Remy, one of the region's best. Dates: May 21 to 31, with extra nights available.  Price: $3400 pp double; $3900 pp single. *NOTE: TRIP IS NOW SOLD OUT/WAITING LIST ONLY. For info: jmorganart.com, julia@jmorganart.com

* For the past ten years, Claude Pasquer (a landscape architect, sculptor and professor at the Graduate School of Versailles) and Corinne Détroyat  (also a landscape designer), have been leading a popular watercolor and garden-sketching workshop in the Luberon. It's based at La Molière, a charming old mas 2 km from Saignon and 8 km from Apt, on a 70-acre estate surrounded by oak, olives and lavender. This year's dates are June 5 to 8 and August 28 to 31 but if space is available, students can also come for the day.  Each day's schedule includes two art sessions, three meals and some free time for swimming, site seeing, "and even a siesta!" Corinne says. The website is in French but Corinne can email you a flyer with all details in English. For info: lamoliere.fr, corinne.detroyat84@gmail.com.

* Based in one of the Luberon's loveliest villages, the American artist Andrew Petrov lived and painted in Provence for many years before returning to the US in 2012. But his heart remains in rural France and he returns each summer to Saignon, to paint and teach. "There's no better place to learn, practice, and enjoy the process of plein aire painting!" Andrew says. This summer (2019) he'll teach at least one 7-day workshop (dates TBA soon) and if there's room, day painters can join in. Otherwise, half- and full-day a la carte painting sessions will also be available. You'll paint beautiful fields, pretty, historic villages, prehistoric and Roman vestiges and more. And all skill levels are welcome; Andrew says his easy-to-grasp methods make it possible for someone "who's never lifted a brush" to create real and empowering artworks. The 7-day package (lodging, meals, art supplies and more) will be priced around $2500. Half-day sessions are 100€ pp; full day sessions: 200€ pp. Prices include all supplies and group prices are available. For info: andrewpetrov.com, petrov.andrew@yahoo.com. 

* British artist Julian Merrow-Smith lives and paints in Provence full time. I think his work is exquisite and so do the thousands of people who follow his "Postcard from Provence" online art sales. In 2019, he'll be offering four painting getaways with his wife Ruth Phillips, a writer and musician....but two are already full. The ones with space available are July 11 to 20 and Oct 2 to 11.  The prices are either $2690 (standard room) or $3490 (deluxe room),  based on double occupancy; single supplement is $500. "There are no frills to this workshop," Julian says. "We usually visit one of the local markets; otherwise the week is all about painting—talking, living and breathing it together. Our aim, above all, is to give you the experience of living the painter's life in the south of France." The group stays in the lovely restored priory in the countryside at the foot of Mont Ventoux. For info: shiftinglight.com, julian@shiftinglight.com. 

* On this 10-day adventure (May 1 to 10), you'll visit and paint the sites around Arles that inspired so many of Vincent Van Gogh's great paintings...and the sites around Aix and near Mont Sainte-Victoire that captivated Paul Cézanne for years. Your hosts will be Royce Deans and Tali Farchi of ArtisTTable Art Retreats; this is their third painting workshop in the area.  Along the way you'll hear fascinating tales from the lives of Van Gogh and Cézanne, and getting encouragement, artistic prompts and instruction. "This is a trip that will take your plein-air painting experience to a whole new level," the instructors say.  Cost: $2345 pp single, $2205 pp double. For info: artisttableonline.com, info@artisttableonline.com.

* The brilliant blues, warm golds, and lavender of southern France are what brought Van Gogh to the area; artist and writer Sharon Rusch Shaver will work with you to capture the subjects that Van Gogh loved most. The workshop "Painting Like Van Gogh" is based in and around Arles; all mediums and levels of ability are welcome. You'll stay in a gracious farmhouse with gardens and a pool, just a few km from Arles. Breakfast and dinner will be served at the farmhouse daily.  Dates: July 17 to 25. For info: adventure-artists.com, shaveart@earthlink.net. 

* Fiona and Jean-Louis Diaz are an Australian-French couple, based in Jouques, 30 minutes north of Aix. They run Artelier Provence, a fine-art gallery offering one-day drawing and painting workshops and four-day retreats. The retreats include five nights accommodation and take place in both village and rural settings, in and around Jouques. Scheduled retreats will be held June 17-20, July 8-11 and August 5-8. Other dates and programs can be customized. For more info: artelierprovence.com, artelierprovence@gmail.com.

And a couple in the Languedoc...

* Sketching Holidays with Annette Morris take place in a variety of locations. Annette tells me these holidays, from 3-7 nights, are ideal for single travelers and especially those new to sketching or looking to 'loosen up' their style. Based between Montpellier and Carcassonne, Annette is British but has lived and worked in France for 11 years and is fully bilingual; she'll help you enjoy French life like a local and capture the essence of it in your sketchbook day to day. Holidays and workshops may include cookery, wine-tasting and private cruises on the Canal du Midi; special dates can be arranged for groups if you're traveling with friends. "My short-stay holidays take place in pretty B&Bs with private pools," Annette says, "and plenty of classic French ooh la la!"  Dates: April 26 to 29, May 10 to 14, June 6 to 9, Sept 6 to 12 and Sept 26 to Oct 2. Prices start at 340€ pp (double room). For info: sketchlanguedoc.com, annette@sketchlanguedoc.com.

* Sketching for Foodies is hosted by Anne de Ravel, a food writer, cookbook author and former producer at Food Network in New York.  Through her company Saveur Languedoc, Anne (a native Languedocienne!) leads food-and-wine tours of this lovely region located to the south and west of Provence. The Languedoc is know for lush vineyards, richly historic cities, beautiful Mediterranean beaches, stunning mountain trails and, of course, the world-famous Canal du Midi.  (Anne returned from the US, to live here full time, in 2007)  Sketching for Foodies,  a 6-night holiday, adds joyful sketching sessions to Anne's popular mix of cooking classes, food and wine touring, tastings and more. The sketching is led by Annette Morris (see just above), while Anne takes care of the rest.  From your charming B&B in Quarante, you'll travel through some of the most picturesque places and discover the area with an insider. You'll meet artisan producers and sample rustic traditional foods; you’ll lunch in wonderful restaurants favored by locals. And along the way, you'll become a skillful sketcher. Dates:  April 4 to 10 and September 26 to October 2. Price: € 1450 pp (double occupancy), € 1600 pp (single). For info: saveurlanguedoc.com, deravelanne@gmail.com.

* British artist Simon Roberts is a professional painter and tutor who's lived in the South of France for 8 years. Based near historic Pezenas in the Languedoc, Simon and his wife Monica run 7-day watercolor holidays and 1- 2 day workshops. "With over 30 years of commercial experience," he says, "I’m happy working in a wide range of styles and techniques which I find brings out the best in our students. Beginners welcome!" You'll stay in a beautiful, traditional villa set in private gardens with a pool...not far from cafes, restaurants and shops. Every day you’ll be taken to superb painting locations including Mediterranean ports, ancient villages and sweeping mountain panoramas. In the evening, the group wines and dines in local restaurants or in the garden; Monica is an excellent cook and may even be persuaded to teach the group how to make a couple of local specialties. This year there are four one-week holidays: June 1 to 8, June 22 to 29, Sept 7 to 14 and Sept 21 to 28. Prices start at $2395 pp (double occupancy). Shorter workshops are also available; all the info is on the site. For info: painting-in-france.com, simon@painting-in-france.com.

* Tod Ramos and Kate Lovegrove run a residential summer painting school called Academy Studios Abroad. Tod has taught and lectured in drawing and painting, in all mediums at all levels, for more than 30 years. Based in Aubais, near Sommieres (about 20 km from Nimes), the Academy will this year offer portrait painting, life painting, landscape painting (see website for dates) and one course for adults and children called Generation Art (April 13 to 18). For info: academystudiosabroad.com, contact@academystudiosabroad.com. 

And a final note from Julie...

If you have a workshop to promote or recommend in the South of France that isn't on this list, feel free leave the info by clicking "comments" below this story. (The best way to comment is to choose Name/URL. Put your name as the name, put your website as the UR and fire away.) Or, just email me the info and I'll add it. 

Photos: (1) Pretty as a Painting: A French Escapade student at work. (2,3 ). Two pieces from French Escapade instructors: flowers by Betty Carr; street scene by Kristi Grussendorf. (4, 5)  Capturing two iconic views of Provence:  the hilltop village of Gordes (Workshops in France) and the beautiful bassin in Cucuron (French Escapade). (6) Jacqueline Newbold will teach "Watercolor with Mixed Media Art Journaling" in May with French Escapade. (7-10) Asparagus by Julian Merrow-Smith...the villa where Julian's students will stay this year...and one of Julian's recent groups painting in the poppies. (11, 12) Watercolors dry in the sunshine during a Simon Roberts' workshop; September evenings might be cool enough for evening fires but they're still perfect for rosé! (13, 14) Two paintings by Tessa Baker, who teaches multiple workshops each year. (15, 16) Meals during Tessa Baker's workshops are fresh, colorful, healthful and Mediterranean inspired.  (17, 18) Julie Snyder runs Workshops in France, offering painting holidays and retreats taught and mentored by various artists. Pictured are two of  Julie's own paintings: "That's Done" and "Homeward."  (19) A Workshops in France student feeling the lavender love. (20) Guests from  the Workshops in France "Glorious Provence" trip (Sept 2018) came from from the Philippines, Australia, Scotland, Canada and USA. (21, 22)  Jill Steenhuis lives in Aix and teaches three painting workshops this year. Pictured here is her "Activity in the Port of Cassis,"  a 12" x 16" oil on canvas. (23) Students who book with Arts in Provence stay in David and Liz Atkinson's home...and swim in this glorious pool. (24) Provence Art Experience has five workshops this summer, each with a different instructors. Guests choose from three places to stay; one offers this lovely pool and view. (25, 26) Two paintings by Julia Morgan, who'll teach this year in May. (27) Annette Morris teaches sketching upside down, so the students can easily see her working. (28) Anne de Ravel, who organizes food and wine trips in the Languedoc, has teamed up with Annette Morris to offer "Sketching for Foodies" twice this year.

Château La Roque: A French Country Fantasy

Once the calm of the winter season settles over Provence, I scurry around doing lots of recon for the season ahead: visiting beautiful new hotels, rental villas and shops...trying new restaurants and revisiting others...sampling the wares at wonderful vineyards...exploring pretty villages, markets and museums...driving country roads and making all sorts of super discoveries to share with my travel-planning clients.

For example, a few weeks ago I went to see the stunning five-room hilltop Château La Roque, in the Vaucluse village of La Roque-sur-Pernes where owners Chantal and Jean Tomasino could not have been more warm and welcoming! I was totally taken with their story of decamping from Paris, searching all over Provence to find the perfect property and undertaking the meticulous four-year transformation of a crumbling 11^th century fortified castle—which dominates the village within its ramparts--into a luxury boutique hotel. They brought in skilled tradesmen and historians, carted away 500 tons of rubble and revealed numerous architectural and decorative details that had been hidden for hundreds of years. Learn more about the history here.

Then they created the beautiful interiors, mixing elegant and “important” pieces with eclectic art, antiques and fabrics found locally. Exquisite, one-of-a-kind chandeliers and wall sconces were custom designed by artisans in Avignon and the Luberon; a handmade, all-white bedcover came from a vintage linen shop in Isle sur la Sorgue. When I commented on how bright the large beautiful salon was, Chantal explained how, back in the day, windows and soaring ceiling vaults were sized and placed to provide--and then reflect--maximum sun throughout the day. The rooms, gardens and swimming pool dug from the rock all have exceptional views. The sunsets, I’m told, are glorious.

As Chantal showed me around recounting fascinating tales of the counts, lords, ladies and Popes who prized and protected this property over the millennia, the tantalizing aroma of good cooking wafted from the kitchen until Jean called us to the table for lunch by the crackling fire. His cuisine is exquisite, her taste is impeccable and I’m sure a stay here—for a couple, family or group--would be beyond fantastic.

If you’re looking for night life and the type of village shops and restaurants that appeal to tourists, you won’t find that in La Roque-sur-Pernes. What you will find are two super knowledgeable hosts who love to suggest activities and share their favorite local discoveries, which include restaurants, vineyards, villages, historic sites, outdoor activities and more. (To get started, see their pages Ideas for Breaks and The Provence.) You’ll also find that this is an ideal base for exploring the popular and lesser-known corners of the Vaucluse (with easy access to Avignon, Châteauneuf du Pape, Isle sur la Sorgue and other wine villages of the Southern Côtes du Rhone, the Luberon, Mont Ventoux, Carpentras, lavender farms, etc.) and central enough for day trips to Aix, Vaison-la-Romaine, St. Remy, the Pont du Gard and more.

Whether you book just one room or privatize the whole château, you’ll be immersed in serenity and laid-back luxury, pampered by charming hosts who’ll do all they can to make it a magical getaway.

Château La Roque

263 Chemin du Château

84210 La Roque-sur-Pernes

France

+33 (0)4 90 61 68 77

contact@chateaularoque.com

Photos: (1-3) No matter the time of day, the south-facing Château La Roque gets the most-beautiful light and views. This luxurious but laid-back boutique hotel has just five rooms, allowing for the most-personal service. (4) Owners Chantal and Jean Tomasino: still laughing, after all these years. (5) The belltower--atop what was once the village church--is just one of the many carefully preserved historic features of the property. It dates to the 11th century but was rebuilt and restored 400 to 500 years later. (6) The neighbors graze their horses in lush fields below. (7) Facade walls under renovation. (8, 9) The property offers quiet outdoor spaces for cool drinks, swimming, reading, strolling, etc. (10-12) Three interior shots, before.  (13-20) Eight interior shots, the way things look today. (21) Jean in his pretty kitchen. (22) Breakfast, anyone? (23) Food at La Roque is often organic, mostly local and always seasonal. Pictured: a zucchini flower filled with a mixture of cod, ricotta and chive, served with organic pepper sauce. (24) Jean works closely with nearby farms to get the best, freshest ingredients. Here, a salad of organic greens with asparagus is nestled with marinated salmon in a citrus/olive oil glaze. (25) Jean's “millefeuilles de fraises en majesté'': baked phyllo, light pastry cream, strawberries and sugar.  

Giving Old Treasures New Life

In her charming and jam-packed atelier called Banaborose in St. Remy, local artist Lisa Guillot “reinvents” furniture of all types, salvaging its original beauty while giving it a fresh new (or completely vintage) look. She uses Annie Sloan chalk paints and has mastered a wide range of treatments, most of which require little or no sanding or stripping. For do-it-yourselfers, Lisa sells the paint and offers popular 3.5-hour workshops on Saturdays and Wednesdays, for a minimum of two people (60 € per person includes paint and all materials, by appointment only). She’ll also come to you, to lead a workshop in your home or do the painting herself. Don’t have a favorite piece that needs some TLC? Let Lisa find and finish one for you in whatever color makes your heart sing, from vibrant red Emperor’s Silk to creamy Versailles to soft green/gray Provence. Or, she’ll create the perfect blend. For pieces too big to transport yourself, Lisa offers pick up and delivery all over France. You’ll find her tucked away in the courtyard (officially known as Place Mireille Moatti), behind the shop Tectona, at 34 blvd. Mirabeau. banaborose.com, contact@banaborose.com, +33 (0)6 07 16 17 98. 

Photos: (1,2) Lisa...and her studio. (3, 4, 5) Finished pieces. (6, 7) An armoire, before and after. (8) Color chart. (9) Lisa's worktable.

Volunteers Wanted to Restore Medieval Site

If you're thinking of visiting Provence next year, here's a way to learn new skills, give something back, leave your mark on an ancient village and meet people from all over the world.

Since 1969, the international non-profit volunteer program La Sabranenque has been devoted to the safeguarding and restoration of traditional rural architecture in Southern France. They're now accepting applications for summer 2019, to work at the medieval Provencale site and village called Saint Victor la Coste. La Sabranenque hosts 150 to 200 participants of all ages and nationalities annually. No previous restoration work is required but you must be at least 18; the oldest volunteer so far was 81.

Saint Victor la Coste is a picturesque village of roughly 1900 people in a beautiful setting 30 km northwest of Avignon. At the foot of a hill dominated by a medieval castle, the village overlooks a small vineyard-covered plain, with the Rhone Valley in the distance. The territory has been inhabited for several millennia; neolithic and Bronze Age artifacts have been found and several known Roman sites are nearby. Once part of the medieval domain of the Sabran family, vassals to the Count of Toulouse, it's known today for its historic buildings (including an 11th century church and a 13th century fort) and traditional rural village lifestyle.

The re-construction of the large structures in the hamlet is now done. This summer's projects include additional stonework tasks (uncovering and securing structural vestiges, improving dry stone terraces, etc.), establishing gardens and building a shelter for small wildlife.

Six-day volunteer sessions run Monday to Saturday, from June 3 to September 28. A fee of 300€ per week covers lodging (double occupancy, in traditional houses restored by La Sabranenque), all meals and activities. The food is Provençal family-style, featuring local vegetables and fruit, traditional cheeses, bakery-fresh breads and local wine. If you wish to stay two or more weeks, you can use your room and the kitchen over the weekend. There are ten participants maximum per session.

Volunteers work on the site in the morning and are also expected to participate in everyday activities such as kitchen work. Afternoons are free to explore and relax, with some historic tours and guided nature walks provided.

For more info, visit the Sabranenque sites here and here. Or email: info@sabranenque.com.

Photos: Scenes from summers past at La Sabranenque.

You're Invited: Thanksgiving in France 2018

Because I totally live to please you, once again I've rounded up a great selection of American Thanksgiving celebrations here in the South of France and in Paris. Who attends these gala soirées? Local expats of course, but also hungry French folks and other Europeans, travelers, house guests...whomever! All nationalities wanted and welcome! 

Over the years, many of my French friends have told me they love the idea of celebrating this American holiday...to meet new people, to sample unusual foods, to learn the history and traditions. At a friend's Thanksgiving in Provence a few years back, the Frenchman to my left told me he loved how the various dishes were served all at once, all on one plate, rather than in courses. Another said he was looking forward to his first taste of cranberry sauce, which he called red fruits jam. 

While the literal translation is Action de Grâce, most French people just call it Thanksgiving...except for my friend Philippe who refers to it as Merci Donnant, which he says "means absolutely nothing at all." 

Some of these feasts listed below are hosted by groups and clubs, who love non-members to join in; others happen in restaurants or hotels.  If you plan to be in Paris for the holiday rather than down south, I've included a number of celebrations there as well...and two links to help you find others. 

I’ve only listed the Thanksgivings that still had space available, as of today. Book soon because most have limited capacity and fill up.

For those of you hosting your own Thanksgiving or sharing in the food prep, I've provided three sources for ingredients such as fresh cranberries and cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, sweet potatoes, stuffing mix and more. When it comes to the big juicy bird, the Paris shop called The Real McCoy sells them both fresh and already roasted; more info about that is below. Elsewhere in France, most butchers will be happy to order a delicious dinde, if given enough notice, and some might even roast it for you. Just remember that the turkeys here in France are smaller than in the US...and don't forget leftovers!

If you're hosting or know of a Thanksgiving celebration that's not listed here, email me the info (provenceblog@aol.com) and I'll happily add it. 

And finally, while we're on the subject, I'm sending a very heartfelt thank you to all of you: for reading and supporting my blog...for sharing it with your friends....for commenting on the stories you particularly enjoy. I wish you all the most joyous and delicious Merci Donnant, wherever you plan to spend it!

THANKSGIVING ON THE COTE D'AZUR

The American Club of the Riviera's Thanksgiving is a gala, annual affair...large, elegant and extremely popular. This year it's in the Salon Belle Epoque at the Hôtel Hermitage in Monte Carlo on Thursday Nov. 22, starting with a 12:30 Champagne reception, followed by a luncheon feast of butternut squash velouté, stuffed turkey, apple and pumpkin tart. Book quickly as this event always sells out; 150 people are expected and it's first come, first served with priority going to member families. Last call for reservation payments is November 13^th so you’ll have to hustle. All the info is on the ACR website here. 

MonacoUSA will host its annual Thanksgiving dinner in a private room at StarsNBars (Monaco) on Thursday Nov. 22, with the bar opening at 6:00 pm and dinner service starting at 7 pm. Seating is family style at communal tables. The menu: Stuffed turkey with cranberry sauce, peas, creamed onions, sweet potatoes, corn on the cob and cornbread. Desserts will be apple tart, pumpkin pie, pecan pie and brownies. Also included: a glass of wine, beer or soft drink, bottled water and espresso. On the large screen, you can see the Macy’s Parade, American football and a special JFK tribute. Cost: 50€ members, 55€ non members, 25€ for kids under 12. Space is limited, you must reserve through MonacoUSA and payment in advance is required; no payment at the door and no walk-ins allowed, sorry! All details are on the website here.

The MonacoUSA party just above is open to everyone but for those who don’t want to join the group, the all-you can-eat Thanksgiving buffet will be available at StarsNBars starting at 7 pm. Pricing is 45€ for adults and 20€ for kids, excluding drinks. The restaurant will also be serving its regular menu that evening. And turkey will be available as the plat du jour at lunch, starting at noon, for 18€ including a drink and dessert. To book: + 377 9797 9595. Questions: info@starsnbars.com.

The Riviera Chapter of Democrats Abroad invites you to a festive Thanksgiving pot luck at Holy Trinity Church Hall, at 11 rue de la Buffa in Nice, on Nov. 22 from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. It’s open to members, Americans in the region and accompanying guests. Due to the size of the hall they can welcome just 35 people so you must RSVP. DA will provide the turkey and asks all guests to bring a prepared salad, vegetable or dessert to be shared. (Sorry, no cooking facilities available on-site). The closest parking is Palais de la Méditerranée or Grimaldi and there are several bus stops in walking distance. For a map and details, click here. For more info, to RSVP or questions: dafrance.riviera@gmail.com.

THANKSGIVING IN PROVENCE

Once again my friend Jon Chiri, an American chef with 20+ years experience working in Provence, will offer a Thanksgiving lunch at Cuisine Centr'Halles, his cafe and cooking school at Les Halles, the wonderful indoor food market in Avignon. On Thursday Nov. 22, Jon invites you to join his family for a special holiday lunch from 11:30 am to 1:30 pm. (The market officially closes at 1:30 pm so be sure to seated by 1 pm latest.) The Thanksgiving Plat du Jour (turkey with Jon's version of accoutrements) will be 24€ ...or 32€ with pumpkin pie. Wine and soft drinks are extra. To reserve: contact@jonathanchiri.com or +33 (0)6 46 89 85 33.

The Anglo-American Group of Provence welcomes the community to its annual family-oriented  Thanksgiving in Aix "with a spirit of appreciation for all that we share."  The party is Sunday, Nov. 25 at 4 pm (aperitif) and 5 pm (dinner) at Restaurant Le Verguetier, 7 chemin d'Eguilles in Celony (Aix), across from the Maison de Ste-Victoire. They'll have all the traditional foods: turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans, sweet potatoes, pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Cost: Members are 29€ adults, 10€ (age 6 to 12) and 6€ (under 5).  Non members are 37€ adults and 18€ kids under 12. To book: Please specify number of adults and kids (with ages) and send check payable to AAGP to: Mari-Luz Saboui, 25 Chemin de Masse, 13710 Fuveau. Checks must be received by Nov 19. Questions? Email to: bobkeltz@aol.com. 

Biocoop - La Coumpagnie in Aix will host two Thanksgivings on Thursday Nov. 22. The first is a lunch which owner Rick Harrison says is "mostly for our curious French clientele - and it's always our biggest lunch turnout of the year!" The lunch will be less than 20€ pp.  (To reserve, see below.) Then comes the main event: a dinner starting at 7:30 pm. "We have a wide diversity of Americans, French and English people excited to attend," Rick says. As they did last year, the Marseille Chapter of Democrats Abroad will have their own space at the event and 40 to 50 of their members are likely to attend.  The meal will be 100% organic, 0% GMOs and 100% homemade from American family recipes! The evening starts with spiced wine and appetizers (stuffed mushrooms, deviled eggs), then moves on to turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, green bean casserole (with cream of mushroom soup...yes!), pumpkin and pecan pies and a classic cheesecake. Prices are 29€ adults and 19€ kids under 12; wine and beer are available for purchase. Reservations required for both lunch and dinner: +33 (0)6 81 34 85 74, rick@biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr. 

Near Forcalquier, the restaurant Le Bistrot de Pierrerue in Pierrerue celebrates its annual Thanksgiving on Friday Nov. 23 at 8 pm. On the menu: an amuse bouche, brined and roasted turkey with dressing (made from bio sausage and chestnuts), homemade gravy and cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, roasted local Brussels sprouts,  pumpkin pie and chocolate pumpkin-seed torte with vanilla ice cream. Price is 25€ per person, without drinks. To book: +33 (0)4 92 75 33 00, maryvonne.kutsch@orange.fr.

At the restaurant L'Epicerie de Cecile in Beaucaire, chef/owner Cécile Guillo is all fired up to host her annual Thanksgiving fête, Thursday Nov. 22 at 8 pm. Seating is communal at large tables for 12. The price isn’t quite confirmed but expect to pay 25 to 30€ for dinner (with a couple glasses of wine) and live music (a pianist and a singer performing American hits from the 70s and 80s). Cecile is also happy to offer her traditional Thanksgiving meal on another day for any group that wants to book it, for a minimum of 15 people. To reserve: +33 (0)7 85 40 38 20.

THANKSGIVING IN PARIS

There seem to be more and more Thanksgiving celebrations in Paris restaurants each year, ranging from the very-casual one at the Hard Rock Cafe (11:30 am to 11:30 pm on Nov. 22, 36€ pp, click here to book) to the very-posh one at Ralph's in Ralph Lauren's elaborately appointed store on the Blvd. St.-Germain (dinner Nov 22, with a set menu at 135€, reservations +33 (0)1 44 77 76 00). 

This year, the restaurant Sunday in Soho (at 7 rue Saint Marc in the 2^nd arrondissement) will offer Thanksgiving for three nights (Nov. 22, 23, 24), with seatings at 7 pm and 9 pm. The 45€ price includes a glass of Champagne or the house cocktail. Reservations are online only and the owners say “Make sure to bring your appetite (and maybe some stretch pants) because our Thanksgiving feast is no joke!!”

For a few more Paris restaurants, hotels and wine bars serving Thanksgiving, click here and here.

If you want to join a group rather than do your own thing in a Parisian restaurant, sign up for Thanksgiving dinner on Tuesday Nov. 20 with the American University Clubs of France. For the 3rd (and probably last) year, they're partnering with the famous Ladurée, known for elegant sweets since 1862, and will be dining in one of Maison Ladurée’s private salons with views on the Champs Elysées. You can have a drink there before, and the dinner officially starts at 7:30 in the restaurant, which is privatized for the occasion. Everyone gets a small gift to take home. Prices range from €72 to €94 pp and all the info is on the website here. Questions? contact@aucfrance.com.

Another club,  The American Club of Paris will hold its annual Thanksgiving at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Paris 3ème) on Thursday, Nov. 22 at 7:30 pm. The evening includes pre-dinner Champagne, an elegant Thanksgiving dinner, a private visit to the Museum's collections and temporary exhibit (including Country Life: Masterpieces from the Mellon Collection) and after-dinner drinks in the Club Room. The dress code is evening attire/black tie optional and roughly 50 people are expected. Members 150€; non-members and guests 175€. All the info is here. Questions? contact@americanclubparis.org.

The popular Thanksgiving cooking classes at the cooking school La Cuisine Paris have already sold out...but they have another option for foodie fun that day. Called a Festive Food Tour this “class” explores not American but rather French holiday classics with a guided walk and tastings of wine, cheese and foie gras. All the info is here. The timing is 3 to 5:30 pm Thursday Nov. 22 (leaving you time for Thanksgiving dinner elsewhere) and the price is 110€ pp. For more info or to reserve: +33 (0)1 40 51 78 18, contact@lacuisineparis.com.

WHERE TO BUY SUPPLIES

MyAmericanMarket.com sells lots of things you’ll likely need to prepare your holiday feast: cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, cornbread mix, stuffing, gravy, corn syrup and more. They also have ingredients and treats for other holidays, too, such as eggnog and candy canes. They are 100% online and will deliver anywhere in Europe. The company uses various couriers but plan to order by Nov. 14 to get your goodies in time. Specific Thanksgiving foods are on a special page here. For info: contact@myamericanmarket.com.

The Franco-American owners of My Little America, Todd and Anthony, hail from Ohio and Brittany and launched their mail-order business “to make it possible for Americans and French people who have lived in the US to find their favorite foods easily, wherever they might live....and to help French people discover these ‘new’ and ‘exotic’ products." Today they import a wide range of American foods and ship them throughout Europe; mailing is free within metropolitan France for orders over 99€ and under 10 kilos. For Thanksgiving they sell cranberry sauce (whole berry and jellied), stuffing mix, turkey gravy, corn muffin mix, corn syrup (light and dark), graham crackers, canned pumpkin, cut sweet potatoes and more. See their Thanksgiving selection here. They also sell classics such as Kraft Mac & Cheese, Toll-House Chocolate Chips, A-1 Steak Sauce, Jif Peanut Butter, A&W Root Beer and much more. Questions: contact@mylittleamerica.com.

In Paris, The Real McCoy is the Parisian go-to for American foods, particularly at holiday time.  In their shop (no mail order) they’re selling fresh farm-bred turkeys...or they’ll even roast and package it for you with stuffing and roasting juices. (Be sure to order at least a few days ahead.) Their roast turkeys average 5 kilos each; they request a 30€ deposit and then charge 11.50€ per kilo, bringing the total to around 80€. The Real McCoy also sells pecan and pumpkin pies, carrot cakes and cheesecakes...plus a wide selection of Thanksgiving products such as fresh cranberries and canned cranberry sauce, stuffing mix, pie fillings, yams, turkey bags, basters and more. They’re located at:  194 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 45 56 00, us.food@wanadoo.fr. No website but find them on Facebook here. 

Above: The much-loved, often-parodied painting is Norman Rockwell's "Freedom from Want" from 1942. Everyone in it was a Rockwell family member or friend; they were photographed individually and painted into the scene. Learn more about the painting and artist here.