Monday, May 26, 2025

Where to Stay in Provence: Mas 9 Romanin

It was 2018 and Romain Avy was living in the UK, working as a mechanical engineer, when he got the call to come home to Provence. 

After farming the same land for four generations, his family had made the extremely difficult decision to give up on agriculture and convert the buildings on their vast St. Remy property for tourism.

This month, Romain (now 35), his brother Laurent and his dad Remi will put the finishing touches on the sixth (and probably final) cottage on this idyllic, historic domaine. Provence is filled with fantastic places to stay and year to year it’s impossible to keep up with all the new ones. But I recently visited the Avys' place for the first time and knew immediately I wanted to tell you about it!

Mas Neuf Romanin (aka Mas 9 Romanin) consists of six houses and apartments of various sizes, five of them with private pools, all built in and around the enormous old farmhouse and its outbuildings. Surrounding them are 50 hectares (120 acres) of farmland that once produced vast quantities of apples, pears and wine grapes. Back in the day, the Avys also made and sold their own wine.

But as the years passed, it became clear that, for a number of reasons, farming here was no longer sustainable, at least not for this family. Today virtually all their fields are laying fallow.

As far as family farms go, 100-plus years is a very-good run…but still. 

Although no one quite knows when the big mas (farmhouse) was originally built--there’s a Roman fountain on the property--Romain’s great grandfather Roger starting farming here around 1910 or 1920. Later, when Romain’s grandparents decided to move off the property and into the village, grand-père Robert was still at the farm every day. Romain grew up in a house across the street, where his mom now lives. He remembers playing hide and seek in the gite that’s now called Mamy, in honor of his grand-mère.

Romain earned his engineering degree in Toulon, then took himself off to the UK at age 22, primarily to improve his English. His three-month stay became five years and he was happily working in the auto industry when that call came beckoning him home. With help from a small crew of local artisans, he and his dad set to work and the first gite, called Papy, had just been finished when Covid hit France in early 2020. Tourism came to a screeching halt but construction did not; by the time people could travel again, a few more pretty gites had been finished…just about one every year. The sixth will be ready for renters next month.

Ranging in size from one to five bedrooms, they’re bright, warm and inviting…blending rustic charm with relaxed elegance while grounded in the farm’s rich history. Old materials were repurposed when possible. For example Romain fronted new kitchen drawers in one gite with wood from the old building itself, while wood beams from an old roof were transformed into a dining table. One set of bedside tables was crafted from a massive fallen plane tree branch; another was made from Romain’s grandmother’s travailleuse, which stored threads and needles for sewing.

Each gite is unique but common elements include art-glass lighting, splashes of color, pretty wallpaper accents and natural materials such as stone, rattan, terra cotta, leather and wood.

Sandrine Chabaud, a family friend, helped with interior design.

All the gites have modern kitchens, dishwashers, washing machines and convertible air conditioning/heating units which means they can be rented year round. The largest gite, which sleeps 12, has a grand fireplace.

With the exception of one on the second-floor of the mas, the cottages all have private outdoor terraces with dining tables and a barbecue or plancha. And all but one have a private pool.

While other family members are involved in the business in various ways, it’s Romain who runs the show. He’ll confirm your reservation, answer your questions and probably be there to greet you and get you settled. He’ll be happy to suggest restaurants and the best sites to visit, around St. Remy and across Provence. While the lodgings here are marketed as “self-catering,” Romain will do whatever he can to make sure you have a wonderful stay.

Guests are welcome to wander into “the museum”: an open barn filled with relics such as a pre-war Caterpillar D2 (hidden successfully from the Nazis by Romain’s grandfather) and a boat motor that the family says was used during the debarquement, in either Normandy or Provence. Romain also remembers hearing that the pétanque pitch was originally dug out by German POWs. A huge old scale that weighed fruit-filled tractors sits in the forecourt.

The artist Christian Manoury has his studio at one end of the property and is happy to show his work and talk art with interested visitors. (To reach him: +33 6 75 09 72 89, insideout13@wanadoo.fr, @christan.manoury).

Mas Neuf Romanin is located on one my favorite roads in St. Remy: gently curving, heavily wooded, very agricultural and very beautiful. When heading home from anywhere east of St. Remy, I often turn off the D99 and take this old road, the Ancienne Voie Aurelia, instead. Beautiful horses graze in pretty pastures to the north; farms and old homes, framed by old plane trees and towering cypress, line the road on the south…the Alpilles Mountains in the distance. The light, particularly just before sunset, is stunning.

This is a beautiful area for hiking and biking. The 12th-century chapel Notre dame de Romanin is a stone’s throw away.  At the Aérodrome de Romanin, our tiny airport, the Aeroclub de St. Remy offers “baptismal” glider flights and a flight school for beginning and advanced glider pilots. On days when the wind and weather are just right, you'll see the planes circling gracefully over the mountains.

All around Mas 9 Romanin, other farms are still producing apples, pears, olives and wine grapes. In fact the Avy’s neighbors include two of the finest wine producers in the region: Domaine Hauvette (not open for visits, tasting or sales) and the historic Chateau Romanin (very much open for all three things and more). Not far away in either direction you’ll find the wineries Domaine Milan, Domaine d’Eole and others.

And even though his family is no longer farming, Romain still has his hand in, through a side business he launched last year. Called Mon Petit Market, it’s designed to promote the products of local farms and food producers, mostly within a 30 km radius. Paniers (baskets) with different themes can be delivered to guests on the property and elsewhere. He plans to give back a portion of proceeds to local producers.

What will happen to the Avy family’s fertile farmland in coming years remains to be seen. It sits in the Alpilles Natural Regional Park and, as a result, is highly protected, with strict rules about what it can and can’t be used for. Romain and his partner Amandine welcomed their first child, a baby boy named Eloi, in February, but Romain says it’s very unlikely that the fifth generation will ever end up farming here.

In the meantime, the agritourism business is thriving: bookings are strong and reviews are great. So if all of this sounds appealing to you, check the website and reserve soon! And please tell Romain I sent you! I’m so happy he shared his family’s touching story with me…and I wish him much happiness and success in the years to come! 

Mas Neuf de Romanin 
Mas9Romanin.fr/en
contact@mas9romanin.fr
+33 (0)6 17 61 40 62
13210 St Rémy de Provence, France

Photos: Old Farm, New Tricks! (1) The gite called Evasion. (2, 3) The old family mas from the garden, Romain in front. (4) Romain at the fountain, which dates to Roman times. (5) The gite called Papy. (6) Kitchen counter in Evasion. (7) The gite called Fontaine. (8) Living room in the gite Alfredo. (9) Bedroom in the gite Mamy. (10) Bathroom in Evasion. (11, 12, 13) All the gites except one have private terraces and all but one have private pools. (14, 15, 16) In "The Museum," relics from farming days gone by include a sign for the Avy family's wine business. (17) View of the farm from above.

Monday, November 4, 2024

You're Invited: Thanksgiving in St. Remy!

Co-owner Bastien Matagliati and chef Richard Smache will host their first-ever American-style Thanksgiving at the Bistrot de Saint Remy on Thursday November 28. Chef Richard has spent lots of time in the US and is very familiar with the traditional Thanksgiving menu...but plans to give it a little French twist, of course. "No worries!" he told me. "I've got this!" 

The 60€-per-person lunch is open to everyone--singles, couples, families--and all nationalities are welcome! 

The Bistrot de Saint Remy is a sister restaurant to the Bistrot du Paradou; Paradou owner Vincent Quenin is Bastien's business partner. These are two of my favorite restaurants and I'm so delighted that the owners have offered to host this special fête! Vincent (who also has the Bistrot Saint-Roch in Maussane) says he hopes it will become an annual event. 

The festive afternoon begins at 1 pm with a sparkling Thanksgiving aperitif. Seating will follow at communal tables of 10 to 14 people each, with the meal served family style. The party will be indoors or out, depending on weather, and is expected to end around 4 pm. 

MENU

*Starter of squash soup
*Turkey with French-style stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce
*Mashed potatoes
*Green beans
*A selection of traditional Thanksgiving desserts
*Serve-yourself wines in red, white and rosé

Cocktails, coffee, tea, bottled water and soft drinks will be available at an extra charge.

Seating is limited and you must reserve and pay in advance; booking info is below. The deadline to book is Thursday November 21.

Chef says most special dietary requests can be accommodated but please let him know as much in advance as possible. Do this by sending a message with your name, phone and request to the email below. 

My friends at the dining-and-travel club La Table des Amis have kindly offered to handle booking and payment for Thanksgiving. You need not be a member to attend but think about joining anyway...they'd love to have you! 

To book for Thanksgiving, click here

Questions about the event? Email: info@latabledesamis.com. Or, call me (+33 6 29 22 16 96) or Barney Lehrer (+33 6 19 82 36 27). 

For the backstory on La Table des Amis, click hereFor info on joining, click here

The Bistrot de Saint Remy is located at 12 blvd. Gambetta, 13210 St. Remy de Provence. Parking is on the street or in nearby lots. To see what I wrote when they opened in 2020, click here.

Can't join us in St. Remy? Dommage! Just in case, here are some other nice holiday options for you...

*The Avignon Chapter of Democrats Abroad will hold their annual Thanksgiving lunch on Saturday Nov 30 from 1 to 5 pm. This will be a pot-luck, family-style celebration in a private home in Cavaillon, for 40 people max. For more info or to reserve: dennis.shibut@gmail.com. 

*If you'll be on the French Riviera rather than in Provence in late November, not to worry! The American Club of the Riviera hosts an annual Thanksgiving luncheon for members (195€) and guests (245€), at the Hotel Hermitage in Monaco. This year it's Thursday Nov 28 at 12:30 pm. Non-members who join the ACR for 2025 get special Thanksgiving pricing; email Timothy Molyneux (teldata.consulting@gmail.com) for details. Otherwise all the Thanksgiving info is here

*American chef Jon Chiri will once again offer a Thanksgiving plat du jour for lunch on Thursday Nov 28, at his cafe and cooking school in the Les Halles Market in Avignon. For info: +33 6 46 89 85 33, contact@jonathanchiri.com. 

Wishing you and your family a joyous Thanksgiving, wherever you plan to spend it!

Sunday, September 8, 2024

Journées du Patrimoine is Sept 21 & 22

It's that time again: The 41st annual Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) takes place Saturday and Sunday, September 21 and 22, in cities and villages all over France. The program was launched by the French Ministry of Culture in 1984 and has since spread all over Europe; this year 50 countries will take part.

Officially it's called European Heritage Days or JEP, (for Journées Européennes du Patrimoine) but everyone just calls it Patrimoine.

Roughly 20,000 sites or so across France are expected to participate. This is one the biggest events in the country and one of my favorite weekends of the year.

The idea is that a wide range of monuments, religious sites, estates, gardens, museums, workshops, galleries, ateliers, factories and more are open for special visits, including many that are normally closed to the public. Most sites are offering free entry and will have a guide on hand; some host special tours and events (mostly in French). Some of these events may require you to sign up in advance, for others you just show up. Some villages will have events on Friday Sept 20 as well. 

Every year, Patrimoine has a loose theme but this year there are two that overlap. The first is  "Heritage, Routes and Connections" which pertains to planes, trains, cars and boats...but also roads, paths and other routes used for spiritual or commercial purposes. The second is Maritime Heritage, including seaside architecture, shipbuilding, aquaculture and more.

Ok, allons-y! What to see and do?

The main Journées du Patrimoine website is here and the department-by-department listings are here. But keep checking back because details continue to roll in as Patrimoine weekend draws closer. Local tourist offices will have Patrimoine info on their own websites and over the years I've found that their info tends to be more comprehensive and up-to-date than the nationwide Patrimoine website.

Every year, my village (St. Remy) publishes its own terrific map/guide to all its Patrimoine sites and activities. You can see the 2024 version in PDF form here. Or, grab a hard copy at the St. Remy Tourist Office.

And here are the programs for Avignon, Aix en Provence, ArlesMarseille, Nimes and Nice. The large Luberon region is here. But don't forget about our hundreds of smaller villages which sometimes offer fantastic tours and visits as well.  

Then there are listings for the six departments of PACA (Provence Alpes Cote d'Azur): Alpes-de-Haute-ProvenceAlpes-MaritimesBouches du Rhone, the Hautes-Alpes and the Var. For the Vaucluse, try here and here. And here's the Gard (which is not technically in Provence but never mind…we love the Gard anyway!). 

Up in Paris, there are more than 1,500 sites participating this year. See a great listing of events and some highlights here.

Throughout the weekend, some activities will happen at specific times, on one day of the weekend on both. (You can expect tours to be in French but a translator is sometimes provided or the guide may speak some English or someone in the group might offer to translate.) For example:

*In St. Remy, enjoy a 1.5 hour guided tour of the old village at 9:30 am on Saturday (to reserve: +33 4 90 92 05 22, meet at the Tourist Office). Or, join a guided “discovery” of the Canal des Alpines on Sunday starting at 2:30. The canal hike is an easy, flat 6 km and includes a visit to the Domaine de Lagoy (rendezvous in the parking of the College Glanum).

Also in St. Remy, the architectural site of Glanum is offering free entry all weekend with guided tours (no registration needed) on both days at 10 am, 11 am, 2 pm, 3 pm and 4 pm. See all the Patrimoine activities at Glanum here.

The Jewish Cemetery in St. Remy, created in the 15th century and normally closed to the public, will be open Saturday from 10 to noon and Sunday from 10:30 to noon and from 3 to 4 pm, with guided visits available both days.

*In Nimes, go behind the scenes of the Arènes (the Roman amphitheater), and visit the areas usually not open to the general public (including where the bulls are kept before bullfights and bull games), the chapel where the matadors pray before entering the ring, and more. Or climb the scaffolding on the façade of St Castor cathedral for a once-in-a-lifetime close-up glimpse of  the medieval frieze depicting the Old Testament, which is currently being painstakingly restored by stonemasons and restorers. Also in Nimes, there's a free organ concert on Saturday from 2:30 to 3 pm, at the United Protestant Church, built between 1714 and 1736…on an organ built in Avignon in 1814.

*In Marseille on Friday night at 7 pm, take a special nighttime double-decker bus tour of the city (10€) and see the famous Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica, which will be exceptionally open this evening. (For info and to book, click here.)  

Or, take the "Marseille Liberated" Tour on Saturday at 3 pm and retrace the journey of the fighters who liberated the Garde Hill and the sanctuary on August 25, 1944...10 days after the Allied forces landed in Provence (book here).

Or, sign on for free guided tour of Marseille's Vieux Port on Saturday or Sunday, from 10 am to noon or 2 pm to 4 pm. Reservations are required; call +33 8 26 50 05 00 or marseilleexperience.com. 

Or take a tour and sketching workshop at the port L'Estaque quarter of Marseille (info here).

*In Aix, there's a free guided tour of the 14th-century Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), on Saturday or Sunday at 10 am, 10:45, 11:30, 2 pm, 2:45 or 3:30. Or, if more modern architecture is your thing, take a backstage tour of the music hall called 6MIC on Friday (5 pm to 6:30) or Saturday (10 am to 11:30). To sign up: billetterie@6mic-aix.fr

*In Arles, the LUMA Foundation is offering special events by reservation on both Saturday and Sunday…see them here. Also in Arles, there's a guided tour of the show “Antoine Raspal, from Réattu to St Trophime” on Sunday from 2:30 to 4 pm, celebrating the reinstallation of two monumental paintings by Antoine Raspal in the Saint-Trophime church. The tour is free but register before Friday Sept 20 at 4 pm please: +33 4 90 49 37 58, reattu.reservation@ville-arles.fr

And really, that's just a fraction of the fun stuff you can do during Patrimoine. There's a beach clean up on Corbieres Beach in Marseille, a kayak trip on the canals of Martigue, a treasure hunt for families in Roquebrun-sur-Argens, a horse show in Pertuis, 8 or 17 km runs and a gourmet walk in and around Oppede, a 32-km tandem bike ride around the Mont Ventoux...and much more.

As the Patrimoine weekend gets closer, the organizers will continue to update the clickable nationwide map, which you can see here. It's all a bit clunky but you're smart and you'll figure it out!

And for additional updates, follow the Journées Européennes du Patrimoine on Instagram and on Facebook. 

Vive le Patrimoine de France! 

Photos: Get out there and explore! A few of the thousands of sites hosting Patrimoine events include: (1) The ancient village of Glanum in St. Remy. (2) The Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde in Marseille. (3) Fondation Vincent Van Gogh in Arles. (4). LUMA Foundation in Arles. (5) The Saint-Trophime Church in Arles, to learn about the career of eminent Arlesian painter Antoine Raspal. (6) Carpentras and other villages of the Vaucluse; join a tandem bike ride here.(7) The Roman Amphitheater in Arles. (8) Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the Cap Ferrat (info here). (9) The Jardins du Roy René and the Musée du Calisson in Aix. (10) Villa Roche in Nimes. (11) Norman Foster's Ombriere at the Vieux Port in Marseille, on a guided walk from the Ombriere to the MUCEM Museum. (12) The port of L'Estaque in Marseille. (13) The Théâtre Antique in Orange. (14) The Jewish Cemetery in St. Remy. (15) The 6MIC Music Hall in Aix (16) The Chateau d'Aulan in Aulan, 8 km from Montbrun-les-Bains, in the Drome Provencal. (17) The Maison Carrée in Nimes. (18) This year's Patrimoine poster.  

Friday, June 7, 2024

River Kayaking in Provence 2024


River kayaking in Provence is super easy...a fabulous way to while away a few hours, get deliciously cool, have a swim if you want one and see some fantastic scenery. 

If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are staffers on the river to help and the kayaks are very open. Meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped. Our rivers are relatively free of obstacles, shallow and generally slow flowing. I encourage many of my clients to give it a go and no one has told me they didn't love it! On a hot day it's just heaven.

You can kayak (and canoe and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), and also on the Durance River, in the Southern Luberon. But whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (just 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue). You can can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias, a super-fun way to experience the 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard

Keep in mind the four places mentioned above (the Sorgue, the Gardon, the Durance and the Rhône) are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place, I'd love to know! 

As the season goes on, the outfitters get extremely busy so you should definitely reserve at least a day or two ahead, if not more. You'll find the details on everything below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE IN THE LUBERON

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in Isle sur la Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is a great way to spend the afternoon. Then again, it's great fun any day, morning or afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus (usually with disco music blasting, but in a good way). There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple reasons but either is fine! If you go with Kayak Vert, there's sometimes a wait at the beginning of the route where you have to go over a dam--and the dam itself can be a bit scary for first timers--but there's always someone there to help. Both outfitters sell snacks (cold drinks, ice cream, etc.), have bathrooms and off offer lots of parking.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group but you don’t really have to. The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling on the river banks. And don't miss the rope swing! Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly and have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both companies give you a watertight container for your stuff and life preserver vests.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended.

Canoe Evasion: 2024 prices:  €26 pp adults; €13 for kids under 14. Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €22 each, kids (6-14) pay €13. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. There’s no minimum age per se, but the company prefers kids be five or older; they must be able to swim at least 25 meters and submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water). Open every day from May 15 to September 30 (but closed the third weekend in September). Open daily from 9 am to 3:30 pm, with departures every 40 mins or so. Bookings must be made by phone: +33 (0)4 90 38 26 22  or online: canoe-evasion.com

Kayak Vert. 2024 prices:  €25 pp adults, €13 for kids (6-12). For groups of 15 or more, please inquire. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters. Payment is by credit card only (but no Amex). Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations by phone:  +33 (0) 4 66 22 80 76 or online: kayakvert.com.

A Bit About Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, it's truly a gorgeous site to see...actually its pretty gorgeous all the time.

In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (As it turns out they weren’t even close: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot here easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has a great museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies based on the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants right on or near the river and some cute shops.

Not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that families love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON 

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias, between Uzes and the Pont du Gard. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fantastic way to experience this 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc. The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue River, the outfitters bring you back by bus. Reservations aren't required but they're definitely recommended and booking is online only. In high season definitely reserve at least a few days before.   

Canoe Colliascanoe-collias.com, or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32. Prices for 2023: €25 for adults, €19 for teens (13-17), €13 for kids (6-12).

Kayak Vert Collias/Pont du Gardkayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com. Prices for 2023:  €25 for adults, €20 for teens (13-17) and €13 for kids (6-12).

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Operated by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak, also known as Canoe Kayak Vaucluse) rather than a private company, this experience is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor. I've never kayaked here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet (aka the Pont d'Avignon) wouldn't be great fun. Kayak rentals in July/August are by the half hour: 30 minutes is €8 pp, 60 minutes is €12 pp, 90 minutes is €16 pp. Kids prices (ages 7 to 12) are slightly less. Open daily from 2 pm to 6:30 including holidays. They also rent canoes and stand-up paddleboards.

Individual paddlers can go out every afternoon in July and August. Those who do tend to potter around the famous bridge, perhaps traveling one km or so in either direction. There's always a staffer on a jet ski on hand to help if needed. Or, there's the guided “Descente” activity every afternoon, where you'll go 8 km with a mixed group.

Groups (7 people or more) can canoe every afternoon of the year when it's safe to do so. A bilingual tour guide can be arranged to accompany your group but this must be arranged in advance, at an extra fee. 

There are also three “river discovery tours” in July and August...check the website closer to July for details. 

Despite the Rhône being so wide and big, it ranges from knee-deep to 8 meters or so in this particular area. There’s very little danger as you're not allowed to get out of the canoe (unlike on the Sorgue or Gardon where you can pull over to swim, picnic, etc.). This outfitter also welcomes wheelchair users (you'll be lifted out of your wheel chair, helped with a special apparatus and seated in the canoe.) Dogs are also allowed!

Please note this outfitter is on the Ile de la Barthelasse, the island in the middle of the Rhône, adjacent to Avignon. If you're driving, there's plenty of nearby parking. If you're walking from Avignon, they're 10 minutes from the Port de l'Oulle on the Avignon side of the River. 

Questions? Call +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73 or +33 (0)6 51 60 13 59. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm and can be reached at: +33 (0)4 28 70 27 27.  Canoe-Vaucluse.fr contact@canoe-vaucluse.fr

KAYAKING ON THE DURANCE IN THE SOUTHERN LUBERON

Another outfitter I recently discovered is AFDA Canoe, which offers canoeing and kayaking on the Durance River in the Southern Luberon. An 8 km route takes you from Cadenet to Lauris (75 minutes) while an 18 km course links Puy Sainte Reparade to Lauris (three hours). They offer canoes for 2 or 3 people...and kayaks for more experienced paddlers. This one is on my summer to-do list for sure...I can't wait to kayak the Durance! 

Photos: (1, 2) Kayaking at the Pont du Gard and on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert.  (3,4) Kayaking on the Rhone at Avignon. (5) The famous source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, photo courtesy of TheLuberon.com. (6) Chilling on the Sorgue, photo courtesy of Canoe Evasion. 


Thursday, March 28, 2024

Michelin's 2024 Provence Restaurant Stars


For chefs and foodies alike, it's an exciting harbinger of spring: the announcement each year of the new Michelin-star ratings in the latest edition of the Guide Rouge for France. With few exceptions, Michelin has been rating French restaurants since the year 1900. (The history of Michelin restaurant ratings is here.) 

The 2024 guide has just come out and once again, because I live to please you, I've compiled a list of all the starred restaurants across Provence, the Côte d'Azur and Monaco. There are six departments in the region known as PACA (Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur) and you'll find all the Michelin-starred restaurants in PACA in my list below, organized by department and village. Each restaurant appears with its current star rating and a clickable link. Restaurants new to the starred list are designated "New 2024." 

The big news this year is the naming of two new three-star restaurants in France...one of them in Provence...bringing the total number of three stars in France to 30. Congrats to chef Fabien Ferré of La Table du Castellet in the Hotel du Castellet (a Relaix & Châteaux property in Le Castellet, in the Var) for attaining this stellar accolade...considered by many to be the pinnacle in the world of French gastronomy. 

At age 35, Ferré is the youngest three-star chef in France. "Age doesn't matter," he told Agence France-Presse last week at the Michelin awards ceremony in the city of Tours. "Life is made of failures. I've had them and yet I'm here being crowned...you have to fight." 

The other new three-star is chef Jérôme Banctel of Le Gabriel at La Réserve in Paris.

Eight restaurants are new to the two-star list this year. And 52 restaurants across France have just been awarded their first star, illustrating "a rising new generation of chefs under 40," Michelin notes. 

There are now 639 starred restaurants in France. In addition to the 30 three stars, there are 75 with two stars and 534 with one.

A couple years ago, Michelin unveiled a new "Green Star" for restaurants devoted to sustainability, recognizing them for their use of local foods and practices that preserve natural resources, protect ecological diversity and reduce waste. There are nine new Green Stars across France this year; you'll find all the Green Stars in PACA designated in green below. 

As usual, Michelin has also given some un-starred restaurants its "Bib Gourmand" designation, meaning good food at low prices...often considered a precursor to a first star. This year there are 37 Bib Gourmand restaurants in PACA and you can see them all here

For more about the winners, their restaurants and the 2024 Guide Rouge, click here

And if you're looking for this list later,you'll find it by clicking the tab up above, the one that says MICHELIN RESTAURANTS. It'll be there for the next year, until the 2025 ratings come out. So read on and Bon App!

   

ALPES DE HAUTE PROVENCE (DEPT. 04) 

Château Arnoux -- La Bonne Étape *

Mane -- Le Feuillée - Le Couvent des Minimes * NEW 2024

Manosque – Restaurant Pierre Grein *

Moustiers Sainte Marie -- La Bastide de Moustiers *


LES HAUTES ALPES (05)

Saint Crépin -- Les Tables de Gaspard *


ALPES MARITIMES (06)

Antibes -- Le Figuier de Saint Esprit *

Antibes --  Louroc *

Antibes (Cap d'Antibes) -- Les Pêcheurs *

Beaulieu sur Mer -- Le Restaurant des Rois *

Biot -- Les Terraillers *

Le Cannet (Cannes) -- Villa Archange **

La Colle sur Loup -- Alain Llorca *

Èze -- Château de la Chèvre d'Or **

Èze – Château Eza *

Èze Bord de Mer -- La Table de Patrick Raingeard *

Juan les Pins -- La Passagère *

Mandelieu-la-Napoule (06) – Bessem * NEW 2024

Menton -- Mirazur ***

Nice -- Chantecler *

Nice -- L'Aromate *

Nice -- Flaveur ** 

Nice -- Jan *

Nice --  Les Agitateurs *

Nice (06) -- ONICE * NEW 2024

Nice – Pure & V  *  

Nice (06) -- Racines - Bruno Cirino * NEW 2024

Roquebrune Cap Martin -  Ceto at the Maybourne Riviera*

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat -- Le Cap at the Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat *

Théoule sur Mer – L'Or Bleu at Hotel Tiara Yaktsa *

Vence -- Le Saint Martin *

Villeneuve Loubet  La Flibuste-Martin's *


BOUCHES DU RHONE (13) 

Aix en Provence -- Pierre Reboul at the Hôtel Château de la Pioline * 

Aix en Provence (Le Tholonet) -- Le Saint Estève *

Aix en Provence -- Le Château de Gaude *

Aix en Pvce/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- Helene Darroze at Villa Lacoste  *

Aix en Provence/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- La Table de l'Orangerie - Château de Fonscolombe  * NEW 2024

Arles -- La Chassagnette  *

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Oustau de Baumanière ***  

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Aupiho at Domaine de  Manville * 

Cabriès  -- La Bastide Bourrelly - Mathias Dandine * NEW 2024

Cassis -- La Villa Madie ***

La Ciotat -- Couleurs de Shimatani *

Eygalières -Maison Hache *

Gemenos  La Magdeleine *

La Ciotat (Le Liouquet) - LaTable de Nans at L'Auberge le Revestel *

Marseille -- Le Petit Nice ***

Marseille -- AM par Alexandre Mazzia ***

Marseille -- Saisons  *

Marseille -- L'Epuisette *

Marseille -- Signature *

Marseille -- Une Table au Sud *

Saint Cannat – Le Mas Bottero *

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Fanny Rey at L'Auberge de Saint Rémy * 

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Restaurant De Tourrel *

Salon de Provence -- Villa Salone *

Ventabren -- La Table de Ventabren *


LE VAR (83)

Les Arcs sur Agens -- Le Relais des Moines *

La Cadière d'Azur -- Hostellerie Bérard *

Le Castellet – La Table du Castellet *** -- NEW 2024

La Croix Valmer -- La Palmeraie at Château de Valmer * 

Le Lavandou – L’arbre au Soleil *

Lorgues -- Bruno *

Lorgues -- Le Jardin de Berne  at Hôtel Château de Berne * 

Ramatuelle -- La Voile at the Hôtel La Réserve Ramatuelle **

Saint Raphaël -- Recif at Hotel Les Roches Rouges *

Saint Tropez -- La Vague d'Or at Cheval Blanc***

Saint Tropez -- La Terrasse at Cheval Blanc * -- NEW 2024

Saint Tropez -- Colette *

Tourettes -- La Faventia *

 

VAUCLUSE (84)  

Ansouis -- La Closerie *

Avignon -- La Mirande *  

Avignon – La Vieille Fontaine at Hotel de L’Europe *

Avignon -- Pollen *

Avignon/ Villeneuve -- Le Prieure -- NEW 2024

Avignon/ Pujaut -- Entre Vigne et Garrigue *

Avignon / Collias -- Le Château de Collias * -- NEW 2024

Bonnieux -- La Bastide de Capelongue  *

Bonnieux -- Le Mas des Eydins ** -- NEW 2024

Cadenet -- Le Goût du Bonheur  * NEW 2024

Châteauneuf du Pape -- La Mère Germaine *

Cucuron -- La Petite Maison de Cucuron *

Gigondas --L'Oustalet *

Gordes (Joucas) -- Hostellerie le Phébus *

Lauris (84) -- Le Champ des Lunes * - NEW 2024

L'Isle sur la Sorgue -- Le Vivier *


MONACO

Le Louis XV (Alain Ducasse) ***

Pavyllon Monte Carlo at the Hotel Hermitage *

Le Blue Bay at the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel **

Yoshi at the Metropole Hotel (Joel Robuchon) *

Le Grill at Hotel de Paris *

La Table d’Antonio Salvatore au Rampoldi *

Les Ambassadeurs Hotel Le Métropole  ** -- NEW 2024