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Painter Julian Paltenghi is showing works from his studio at the restaurant Le Theatre, at 4 rue Eugene Pelletan, Tarascon, until March 30th. The show opens Friday Feb. 27 with a vernissage beginning at 7 p.m. and all are welcome. Le Theatre is open evenings only, from 7 p.m., and is closed Thursdays and Sundays. The restaurant is offering a 15€ dinner special for those who attend the vernissage and would like to stay on. To reserve, call 04-90-91-41-44 or 06-08-96-19-66. For info on Julian or his work: www.julianpaltenghi.com, 06-85-35-58-04.

DEAL DU JOUR

Once a summer home for the Avignon Popes, La Maison, in a 600-year-old mas just minutes from St. Remy, is quintessential Provence. Thirteen sun-drenched guestrooms (no two alike) have soft color-washed walls, French country antiques, subtle Moroccan touches (lanterns, tiles) and stunning mountain or garden views. In the dining room, chef Christian Peyre turns out highly regarded modern French/Provencal fare, based on local, seasonal ingredients. Now he and his partner, Eric Marty, are offering two great ways to enjoy La Maison at a discount. On Friday evenings in March, order two truffle menus at 119€ each and stay the night free. Or book a room for one night anytime before April 5th and get a second night free. La Maison--Domaine de Bournissac Paluds de Noves (between Noves and St. Remy) 04-90-90-25-25 bournissac@wanadoo.fr www.lamaison-a-bournissac.com

The Fight to Save Cezanne's Countryside

The family of Paul Cézanne is “horrified” to learn that the SNCF is thinking of building an ultra-fast train track at the foot of Mount Sainte-Victoire, which Cezanne painted 87 times and has come to symbolize his genius. “I feel under attack,” Philippe Cézanne, the great grandson of the famous post-impressionist, told The Guardian in a story that appears today. “The soul of Cézanne is in these hills. It's still quite magical, and all the foreigners who come to the region are surprised to find the landscapes as the artist saw them." Philippe Cézanne is lending his weight to an increasingly vocal campaign to stop a new stretch of fast track from running directly from Aix to Nice, through the beautiful Provence arrière pays where Cézanne had his family home. The new stretch is part of the so-called LGV PACA line, designed to reduce travel time from Paris to Nice, which currently takes 5.5 hours. The new line is set to open by 2020. The most direct "northern" route, which would take around four hours, would cut through the Provence hinterland along the Arc valley, past the south side of Mount Sainte-Victoire to Nice. A slower, costlier "southern" alternative would skirt the Cézanne area and pass through the coastal cities of Marseille and Toulon. It would take about 20 minutes more and increase the price tag by up to €3.5 billion. Last year, President Nicolas Sarkozy spoke out in favor of the "southern" route but protesters claim the government has changed its mind and now favors the cheaper, more direct route. Last month, a group of 5,000 gathered at the Aix station to protest the reported decision. Their banners read: "Sainte-Victoire, you will tremble," and "Help Cézanne, they have gone crazy". Among the protesters were winegrowers from the Sainte-Victoire appellation, who say their vineyards will be ruined by the new line. Earlier this week, 86 local politicians traveled to Paris to meet the environment minister, Jean-Louis Borloo. Their chief spokesman was the Aix-en-Provence mayor Maryse Joissains Masini. Cézanne used trains to get from Paris to Aix. But when a small station was opened at the foot of Jas de Bouffan, his family home, he “vented his anger in brushstrokes,” says Telegraph France correspondent Henry Samuel. Cezanne’s 1873 work La Tranchée avec la Montagne Saint-Victoire (The Cutting), depicts Mount Sainte-Victoire in the distance, and, in the foreground, the local railway line through the hills. "The flanks of the ruptured hills are painted in almost a blood red. He considered it to be an open wound in the heart of the landscape, an offence to nature," said Michel Fresset, director of the Atelier Cézanne in Aix. Read the full article here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/4615608/Cezanne-family-furious-at-new-Provence-railway.html And read Henry Samuel's blog post here: http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/henry_samuel/blog/2009/02/14/czanne_heritage_under_threat_says_great_grandson

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

Visiting the famous wine villages of the Southern Rhone Valley-- Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and others--can be a bit daunting if you don’t know the area, don’t know much about wine or don’t know which labels you love. Some tasting rooms are open to the public during normal hours; others require an appointment. And some vineyards don’t offer tasting at all. The Southern Rhône appellation is based on a four-level quality hierarchy and produces a wide range of wines from 18 grape varieties, in soil ranging from soft sand to hard rock. Where to begin and how to make the most of your time? Châteauneuf alone has 250 estates.

That’s where Olivier Hickman comes in. Hickman (pictured above left with Bruno Gaspard, winemaker at Le Clos du Caillou in Châteauneuf), offers half- and full-day guided visits to some of the top domains in the region, leading all property tours and tastings himself (rather than calling upon the vigneron to do it). “This allows me to focus on what's different at each domaine and to introduce wine topics in a way people can understand,” he explains. “In addition, it means we can see more domaines in a short time because there is no repetition.” Bottom line? You’ll get a far richer experience than if you showed up on your own. 

A day out with Olivier is a crash course in the concept of terroir, the combination of soil, microclimate and topography that makes every French wine unique. Terroir is why two wines made from the same grape on adjacent properties can taste vastly different…and why the choicest parcels of grape-growing land here sell for upwards of €400,000 per hectare. Along the way, you’ll discover the different aging techniques, the differences between French and New World winemaking, the subtleties of Rhone grape varieties, the basics of organic and biodynamic winemaking and why tough growing conditions can yield some of the best wines. And, of course, you’ll taste some of the region’s finest labels.

“Most Rhône vignerons will tell you that their wines are ‘made in the vineyard and not in the cellar,’” Olivier says, “and are a product of hard work and their unique terroir. For this reason, I like to spend a good portion of my tours amongst the vines. You can only truly appreciate the soul of a great French wine by visiting the vineyard in which it has its origins.”

Olivier works with a group of 30 or so different vineyards, making his selection based on the location and beauty of the domaine, the quality of the wines and how they compare and contrast. I did a day-tour with Olivier last week and found it fun and extremely worthwhile. He’s charming, knowledgeable, funny and patient…and moves things along at a perfect clip.

Born and raised in London (his mother was French, his father English), Olivier guides in English but is fully bi-lingual. Formerly an accountant with Warner Music, he and his wife chucked city life so he could pursue his passion. He trained with the WSET, a wine academy in London, but got the bulk of his knowledge from interviewing domaine owners and his own vine-growing and winemaking experience. He planted a vineyard in Valreas in 1999 and has made wine in different regions of France since 2000. He and his wife, Janet, and their two kids made the move to Provence permanent in 2003.

A half day with Olivier costs 35€ or 40€ per person (two domaines, price depends on the villages visited, minimum fee per tour is 95€). A full day (four domaines, with a break for lunch) costs €70 per person, with a 195€ per tour minimum. While Olivier normally meets you at a specified location, he can also arrange pick up at your home, rental villa or hotel.

Now expanding his three-year-old business, Olivier also hosts a full-day cooking class and wine tour in conjunction with Cuisine de Provence (cuisinedeprovence.com), a chauffered wine-and-culture tour, and wine tastings in hotels and private homes. For tour operators, bike and walking tour companies and groups of all sizes, he’ll arrange anything from a two-hour “discovery” to a full-on full-week tour. This year, he’s launching a Winery Holiday with accommodation and wine activities at a domaine in the hills above Seguret and a Walking Wine holiday in collaboration with a professional mountain guide.  For more info: www.wine-uncovered.com, Olivier.hickman@wine-uncovered.com, 06-75-10-10-01.

In Memory of Marcel Guillot (1915-2009)

My next-door neighbor died yesterday, aged 94. After suffering a long time with bronchitis—he hadn’t left the house in three weeks—he finally agreed to go to the hospital; I can only imagine how hard his relatives pushed to make that happen. Fiercely independent, he’d lived happily on his own since his wife died many years ago. The couple had no children but Marcel had lots of attentive family—the Guillots are a big clan who’ve been in St. Remy forever.

Our homes share a common wall and were obviously part of the same mas, back in the day. Working at my desk, I could hear every time Marcel’s old wall-mounted dial phone rang, followed by his loud “Allo?” Each evening at 11 p.m. I’d hear the TV go off and I’d know he’d soon be climbing the stairs to bed. I could have set my watch by Marcel’s routine. He spent his mornings at Brasserie du Commerce, betting a few euros on horses, reading the paper and chatting with friends. He drove himself to lunch at the nursing home every day at 11:15. Then he’d come home for a siesta and leave the house at 3 p.m. sharp to play boules with his gang. He’d be home by 6 p.m. most nights to make dinner, watch TV…and head for bed around 11 p.m.

Marcel’s little white car, straw hat in the back, was a neighborhood fixture just like he was. He drove fast, which always amused me. Can you imagine still driving at 94? He couldn’t imagine otherwise.

When I’d travel home to the States, Marcel would occasionally call to check in. I found it hard to understand him, with his thick Provencal accent, but the calls touched me more than I can say. When I returned to France, he’d show up at my door with cake and Champagne. I’d find out later that he’d fixed my gate, raked my leaves and did who knows what all else without letting me know or looking for thanks. He told me once, years ago, that he’d always wanted to see New York—and we agreed, with a wink, that we’d go there together one day. (I can’t be sure but I believe he said he’d never been out of the country.)

He’d become sullen when I’d start dating someone—they were never good enough for me--and warm up immediately when the relationship ended. When a new guy came around, the questions were always the same: Who are his parents? What’s the family name? Does he have a job?

One year I asked if he’d feed my cat while I was away. He didn’t want to do it but he grudgingly agreed, on one condition: he’d feed her outside only. “Animals don’t belong in the house,” he said. When I returned a few weeks later, I spied food and water bowls on his living room floor and my cat sleeping under a chair in the corner. “What’s up with the cat in the house?” I asked. “She’s my little friend,” he said, giving her a squeeze.

Over the years Marcel let me help him harvest the grapes from the old vines on his terrace. We’d haul out the ladder, ready the boxes and scissor a surprising number of fat clusters from the small trellis overhead. Early on it was he who climbed the ladder; later it was me. When his nephew showed up one year to do the harvest, I felt surprisingly hurt.

On hot summer evenings, I’d step outside to catch a breeze and Marcel would sometimes join me. We’d sit together in my garden, enjoying the stars and the night air. We’d talk about our lives, as much as our different languages would allow, and we’d congratulate ourselves on having the good fortune to be here in Provence, to be happy and healthy and have good people close by.

One year at holiday time I "elfed" Marcel online (www.elfyourself.com). We laughed so hard I thought one or both of us might actually keel over.

Marcel was a great neighbor and I hope he felt the same way about me. He was kind, generous, smart, loving and full of life. He had a terrific sense of humor and a nice sense of style. He would have been a wonderful father and I’m sure he was a great husband. I feel blessed to have had him in my life for the nine years I’ve been in St. Remy.

Rest in peace, my friend.

Restaurant Review: Le Vivier

If two or three foodie friends recommend the same restaurant, I’m usually all over it. Yet despite all the raves I’d heard about Le Vivier, it took me more than a year to get there. My friends and I arrived a bit weary—it was a cold, grey Thursday in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and many of the shops and galleries we tried to visit were closed--so we were looking forward to a great lunch, a nice bottle of wine, a comforting atmosphere and whatever that extra something was that was making the foodies swoon. Score!

Built on the site of an old flour mill, Le Vivier is nothing to look at from outside. Inside, however, we found a serene light-filled room, where orange glasses, a few painted walls and whimsical light fixtures—more on that later--provide the perfect counterpoint to a sleek and minimal backdrop. But rather than industrial modern, the vibe is warm and welcoming: white-cloth elegant but not formal. Large windows provide great Sorgue River views and the tables are generously spaced.

Generosity, it seems, is the Le Vivier philosophy: portions are large, ingredients top rate, sauces plentiful, linens luxe. Having ordered the set three-course €28 menu, the last thing we expected was an amuse-bouche or mignardises…but we got both. Restaurants all over France are struggling, cutting costs left and right, but you’d never know it here. My meal reminded me why I fell in love with French food in the first place.

Lyonnaise owners Patrick and Céline Fischnaller (pictured above) both speak perfect English, thanks to 14 years experience in top London spots such as Le Gavroche, Pont de la Tour, The Orrery, The Wolseley, Quaglino’s and L’Escargot. (I knew something was up when I spied their display of English celebrity-chef cookbooks.) The couple moved back to France in 2005, settling with their three kids in Fontaine de Vaucluse. They opened Le Vivier (“the fish pond”) three years ago and earned a Michelin star last year.

Céline runs the dining room and Patrick is executive chef: he writes the menus, sources ingredients, buys all the food and wine. Day-to-day cooking duties rest in the capable hands of Champagnois chef Arnaud Vaumerel, whose impressive resume includes the Bristol and Taillevent in Paris and the Bastide de Gordes in Provence. Patrick describes the cuisine as “classic French bourgeois, but contemporary with a twist.”

This is modern French food at its finest: seasonal, creative, refined, flavorful…complex without being fussy.

Born into a restaurant family and trained at a well-known chef school, Patrick learned early on that the quality of ingredients is key. So he markets on a daily basis, buying his fish at Metro in Avignon (“the best and freshest selection,” he says) and meat from the Boucherie Schaeffer in town. Produce comes from local farmers, depending on what’s in season: organic root vegetables from Pernes les Fontaines; asparagus and fruit from Roussillon; watercress from Velleron. At any given time, Patrick is buying from 15 or so different purveyors.

Our 28€ “Menu du Marché,” offered weekdays at lunch and dinner, is truly one of the best values around. (Three courses are pictured above and you can click to enlarge.) After an excellent amuse (a multi-layered brandade mousse in a tiny mason jar), we moved on to a starter of tender mignons of lièvre (hare), served with a rich hare parfait, beet salad and crispy green-olive wafers. Next came a perfect cabillaud (cod) filet, on a bed of artichoke mousse topped with a criss-cross of fried chickpeas (panisses).

Dessert was a pear-and-chocolate sampler: creamy poached pear sandwiched between thin chocolate wafers, with pear sorbet, crème vanillé and graceful chocolate drizzles. Bravo to the pastry chef! Our plates were irresistibly pretty and packed with delicious flavors.

Le Vivier offers both à la carte and prix-fixe menus, which change on a regular basis. In addition to the Menu du Marché, there’s a three-course 43€ option (with many choices) and a seven-course 70€ Menu Gourmand. There are also special truffle menus (Thursdays in January and February) and wine menus in November and December. A 70€ Valentines Day menu is planned for February 14th.

Le Vivier’s wine list is substantial, with 150 labels from all over France and a smattering of Spain and Italy. Nineteen wines and Champagnes are available by the glass, priced 5€ to €16.

And what about those light fixtures? Playing on the restaurant’s name, the waterfront location and the Fischnaller name, designer Nono Girard (of La Capucine in Carpentras) gave the space a subtle aquatic theme. Glowing red plastic fish float serenely over the bar, each in its own clear bag, like an Alice-in-Wonderland version of a carnival prize. They’re become so popular that Le Vivier sells them in three different styles; Patrick calls them “Fish-to-Take-Away.”

The only negative I could find here--and it’s minor--is Le Vivier’s location: 500 meters outside Centre Ville (direction Carpentras/Fontaine de Vaucluse). Which means that if you’re in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue for the market or shopping, you’ll probably want to move your car. What you get in return, however, is a fabulously tranquil setting, where you can dine in summer on a shaded terrace and hear the gentle splash of an old water mill. (In the searing summer heat, Céline says, the patio stays cool and breezy.) Plus, the restaurant has its own lot, so there are no parking hassles.

Le Vivier is open for lunch (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday) and dinner (Tuesday through Saturday). It closes February 23 and reopens March 18, 2009.

Restaurant Le Vivier
Acticentre
800, cours Fernande Peyre
84800 Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue
04-90-38-52-80
Info.levivier@wanadoo.fr
www.levivier-restaurant.com

Expat Party Update

Top Photo: More than 100 expats and friends gathered for the annual New Years Potluck Picnic at the Col de Cérèste, at the eastern tip of the Grand Luberon. At 720 meters, the picnic site offers a 220 degree view of the eastern end of the Parc Naturel du Lubéron with the snow-covered southern Alps and the Parc National du Mercantour in the distance. The annual tradition, begun in 1998 by Glen Kendall and Ems Magnus, is an ad hoc affair open to all. The organizers provide a large cooking fire and soups; most everyone brings a dish to pass. For info: glenkendall@btinternet.com Photo by Alain Carles. Bottom Photo: There was an equally great turnout for the debut party of the Expat Club of Provence, a new non-profit association, held Jan. 17 at the atelier of painter Jacqueline Schell in Greoux les Bains (in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, 15 minutes from Manosque, 30 minutes from Aix). Among the 100 attendees were folks from Canada, the U.K., the U.S., New Zealand, Brazil, Germany, Belgium and India. The Expat Club offers bi-lingual workshops in cooking, photography, painting and local crafts, along with fiction and non-fiction writing (in English). Membership benefits include monthly cocktail parties, family events and an English library. For info: www.expatprovence.org, provenceworkshops@gmail.com, 06-27-86-07-79. Photo by Marie-Noël Paschal for La Provence.

Baby You Can Drive My Car

Based in St. Remy, Pascal Dumaine has started a chauffeur service with an interesting twist: he’ll drive you or your clients or guests anywhere…in your own car. “The advantages,” he says, “are if you want your car with you…or you want to relax on the road. Or if you’re traveling with a group of friends or only need one-way transportation. Or you want to go out for the evening and not worry about drinking and driving.” He can also pick up and drop off your rental car.

Pascal recently brought a client’s Jaguar back from Paris while the client flew and has worked for corporations hosting guests and out-of-town visitors. He has a truck driver’s license as well and can help with a move, to destinations all over Europe. But the bulk of his business, Pascal says, is doing airport runs; prices depend on the day and the time. For info: 06-60-30-49-54, pascal2008@service-chauffeur.fr or www.service-chauffeur.fr

Skiing on Mont Ventoux...Who Knew?

When I saw my friend Angela Billows the other day, she looked positively radiant, all rosy and glowing. Turns out she had just returned from skiing. “In the Alps?” I asked, but Angela—a costume designer for film and TV who lives in Tarascon--had actually been much closer to home, on Mont Ventoux. I had no idea there was skiing there so I asked her for all the info...and she sent this.

If, like me, you enjoy skiing, but have a husband who hates the cold and won’t be enticed to take a ski holiday, then the answer is to look for something closer to home. I found it about 20 kms north of Carpentras, on the north side of the mountain. The resort is called Mont Serein. I went last week Tuesday (before the heavy snow fall) and had a great day out. I haven’t skied for at least ten years, and so I stayed on the lower green slopes, which were perfect for getting my ski legs back. My friend ventured to the higher red and black slopes. There are nine lifts in all, all of them button lifts (also called platter lifts or téléski), which can be a bit tricky at first if you’re not used to them. (I gave much cause for hilarity as, time and again, I fell splat on my face with my skis crossed behind me having let go too quickly or too soon!) There’s a lovely old traditional hotel on the slopes, to the right of the green runs, called Chalet Liotard, where we had lunch. It had a huge roaring fire and beautiful views onto the snow-covered surrounding countryside. I had the plat du jour, which was biche (roe deer), for €11. My friend had steak and chips. It can get very cold and windy at Mont Serein, I’m told, and busy at the weekends. The day we went, however, there were few people and no queues! Everyone was very friendly and helpful and we felt we knew the entire ski staff by the end of the day. There are a couple of ski-hire shops--my skis and poles cost just €16 for the day--and the ski pass cost just €15. And we were home by 6 p.m., in time to get to the shops to buy cheese to make fondue! 

Station de ski du Mont Serein Mont Ventoux versant Nord, 04-90-63-42-02, www.stationdumontserein.com.  

Chalet Liotard au Mont Serein 04-90-60-68-38.

Provence: A Photographic Journey

For 26 years, award-winning fine-art photographer Elizabeth Opalenik has taught weeklong summer photo workshops in Provence, bringing a group of students with her from the States. This year, for the first time, she’ll also conduct a four-day workshop designed specifically for locals or travelers already here in Provence. The base will be St. Remy and the dates, June 26th to 29th, 2009. “I first arrived in Provence in 1983 to assist a photo workshop and like many, I fell in love,” Opalenik says. “In my 30-year career as a photographic artist, I can truly say that Provence has been the biggest influence on my vision. Besides my love for the region, it’s the sense of community that keeps me coming back. I’m hoping this workshop will help strengthen the community of locals who share my passion.” The group will meet on Friday afternoon to share photos and stories; Opalenik will discuss light, which she calls “the basis for all beautiful images.” A field trip will be followed by dinner in a local restaurant. Saturday and Sunday will be devoted to shooting, critiques and lectures on portraiture, “finding the beauty in your own space,” using infrared film and digital infrared and working with models. The course will include daylight, twilight and night-shooting sessions and one live-model session. Opalenik will share her portfolio and also discuss her experiences in the French photo community. Monday will be devoted to reviewing what’s been shot and discussions on editing, print presentation and handmade books. The day will finish with an afternoon photo session. “The focus of the class is making images,” Opalenik says, “but also sharing our collective knowledge and finding your personal vision. There will be lots of laughs, good meals and new friends as you continue your photographic journey in this incredible part of France.” Tuition is 400€, which includes four meals, field trips and model fees. For more info or to register: www.opalenik.com, elizabeth@opalenik.com.