You're Invited: Thanksgiving in France

Because I live to please you, once again I've rounded up a great selection of Thanksgiving celebrations--on the Côte d'Azur, in inland Provence and in Paris--where you are wanted and welcome! Who attends? The local expat community of course, but also French friends and other Europeans, travelers, house guests and, in one case, invited members of the American military stationed in the area. Many French friends have told me they love the idea of celebrating this very-American tradition; at a friend's Thanksgiving a few years back, the Frenchman to my left said he loved how the various dishes were served all at once, all on one plate, rather than in courses. Another said he was looking forward to his first taste of cranberry sauce, which he called red fruits jam.

While the literal translation is Action de Grâce, most French just call it Thanksgiving...except for my friend Philippe who refers to it as Merci Donnant, which he says "means absolutely nothing at all." 

You'll see I've also included a couple Thanksgivings in Paris, including one where you'll cook some of the dishes yourself...and a link for finding others. For those of you cooking at home, I've provided two great sources for all your Thanksgiving supplies, including fresh cranberries, fresh yams, stuffing mix, pumpkin pies, pecan pies and of course, the big juicy bird.

If you're hosting a Thanksgiving in the South of France that's not listed here--or know of one--feel free to email me the info and I'll add it: provenceblog@aol.com.

And while we're on the subject, let me take this chance to say thank you to all of you: for reading and supporting my blog...for sharing the info with your friends...and for supporting my advertisers when you can! I'm very thankful! And I wish you a joyous Merci Donnant, wherever you plan to spend it...

THANKSGIVING ON THE COTE D'AZUR

* The cooking school and foodie gathering place called La Serviette Blanche in Cannes will be offering an elegant Thanksgiving feast--with a French twist--on November 24th at 7:30 pm. The price of €69 pp includes a welcome Kir Royale with nibbles and a four-course menu ending with coffee or tea; wines are extra. All ingredients are seasonal and market fresh. Le Menu: sweet corn velouté with crispy bacon and crème fraiche, slow-roasted turkey breast basted with butter and white wine, gravy, stuffing, cranberry compote, sweet potato gnocchi with maple and sage, Chardonnay-glazed carrots, sage corn bread and French green beans. For dessert, there will be a gooey pumpkin cake with homemade vanilla cinnamon ice cream. Reservations and advance payment are required.  To book: visit the website linked above or email: info@laservietteblanche.com. 

* The American Club of the Riviera's Thanksgiving in Monaco is a gala, annual affair...large, elegant and extremely popular.  It's Thursday, November 24, starting at 12:30, in the 
the splendid Salon Bellevue at the Café de Paris. As in year's past, members of the US Army will be the special guests. All the info is here. Be sure to reserve early as the event is always fully booked. For those who'd like to join the ACR, they're offering a special 14-month membership for new members so you can be sure of getting in to Thanksgiving. 

* MonacoUSA will host an all-you-can-eat buffet Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday, November 24 on the Star Deck at Stars'n'Bars, in a family-style setting with all the fixings. All are welcome and singles will sit side by side with couples and family groups so that everyone is included in the celebration "just like the original Thanksgiving more than 300 years ago!" The Menu: Turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, creamed onions, sweet potato, peas, corn on the cob, corn bread and a selection of pies (apple, pumpkin, pecan) and brownies. The price includes a glass of wine, beer or soft drink and coffee. Space is limited and places can only be reserved for those paid in advance. Members of MonacoUSA pay €45; non-members €50; kids under 12, €20. To reserve: rsvpmcusa@gmail.com. 

THANKSGIVING IN PROVENCE

* The Anglo-American Group of Provence is once again welcoming the community to celebrate Thanksgiving "with a spirit of appreciation for all that we share." The party is Sunday, November 27 at 4 pm (aperitif) and 5 pm (dinner) at Restaurant Le Verguetier, 7 chemin d'Eguilles in Celony (Aix)  across from the Maison de Ste-Victorie (restaurant phone 04 42 23 11 56). They'll have all the traditional foods:  turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Cost: 29€ members, 10€ for their kids under 12; 36€ for non-member guests and 18€ for their kids under 12. This includes aperitif, the meal with desert, wine and coffee. To book: Please specify the number of adults and kids in your party, write a check payable to AAGP and send it to Mari-Luz Saboui, 25 Chemin de Masse, 13710 Fuveau. Checks must be received by Nov 21. Questions? Email to: bobkeltz@aol.com.

* The Avignon Chapter of Democrats Abroad will gather for a festive Thanksgiving lunch on Saturday November 19, at  L'Epicerie de Cecile on the Place de la Republique in Beaucaire (TripAdvisor ranks it the #2 restaurant in Beaucaire). Timing is 12:30 to 3 pm. Cecile herself will cook up the traditional Thanksgiving feast, as she has in years past. Menu: Pumpkin soup, turkey with stuffing and gravy, sweet potatoes, green beans, baked potatoes and cranberry sauce. Dessert is Georgia-style pecan pie. One glass of wine is offered, coffee is extra. Before lunch the group will gather for an apero at the Taurin Cafe (on the same square as the restaurant) between 11-12:30. Lunch is 20€ adults, 10€ kids. Seating is limited and you must reserve before noon Saturday, Nov. 12. To book: d.shibut@free.fr. (Cecile will also be serving Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday Nov 24, starting at 8 pm, but she tells me she is already fully booked.)

* The Marseille Chapter of Democrats Abroad is hosting Thanksgiving in Aix at Biocoop - La Coumpagnie. The party is Thursday, November 24 starting at 7:30 pm. The meal will be 100% organic, 0% GMOs and 100% homemade from American family recipes! The evening starts with spiced wine and appetizers (stuffed mushrooms, deviled eggs), then moves on to the main event of turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, green bean casserole (yes, with cream of mushroom soup!), pumpkin pie, pecan pie and classic cheesecake. The price is 27 € adults and 19 € for children under 12; wine and beer will available at additional cost.  To book: +33 (0)6 81 34 85 74, parisrick@me.com.

* Near Forcalquier, the restaurant Le Bistrot de Pierrerue in Pierrerue celebrates Thanksgiving on Friday November 25 at 8 pm. On the menu: an amuse bouche, brined and roasted turkey with dressing (made from bio sausage and chestnuts), homemade gravy and cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, roasted local Brussels sprouts,  pumpkin pie, apple crumble and vanilla ice cream. Price is 25€ per person, without drinks. To book: +33 (0)4 92 75 33, 00, maryvonne.kutsch@orange.fr.

* The owners of the lovely four-star hotel Mas Valentine in St. Remy tell me they'll be hosting Thanksgiving again...and are working out the final details. I'll post the info here when I get it...or you can email them: contact@masvalentine.com.

THANKSGIVING IN PARIS

* There seem to be a lot of Thanksgiving celebrations in Paris restaurants this year, ranging from the very-casual one at the Hard Rock Cafe to the very-posh one at Ralph's, the restaurant in Ralph Lauren's elaborately appointed store on the Boulevard St.-Germain. One that seems to be getting lots of buzz this year will be at Dune, where American chef Evan Leichtling (from Seattle, originally) is hosting Thanksgiving on Thursday November 24, with seatings at 5 pm, 7:30 and 9:30 pm. The three-course menu is 38€ and all the details are on the site.  

* If you want to join a group rather than do your own thing in a Parisian restaurant, sign up for Thanksgiving dinner on November 22 with the American University Clubs of France. This year they’ve partnered with the famous Ladurée, known for elegant sweets since 1862, and will be dining in one of Maison Ladurée’s private salons with views on the Champs Elysées. The evening starts at 7 pm with a welcome drink at the Lincoln Bar, privatized for the occasion. During the apero, a Ladurée manager will talk a bit about the history of the brand. Then the group will move on to dinner and mingling. Prices range from €52 to €58 per person and all the info is here. Questions? aucfrance@gmail.com.

* If you can't decide whether to cook at home or go out, the cooking school La Cuisine Paris has the perfect solution for you: a Thanksgiving cooking class (in English)...followed by everyone eating lunch together overlooking the Seine. Timing is 10 am to 1:30 on November 24 and the price is 120€ per person.

* To find other Thanksgivings in Paris, you'll find a good list here. 

WHERE TO BUY SUPPLIES

* The Paris shop called Thanksgiving sells a wide range of American foods year round so of course they're the Parisian go-to for holiday meal supplies. (They also stock Canadian, British and Mexican products, too.)  They're taking orders now for their fresh turkeys, homemade pecan and pumpkin pies and all the other ingredients you need to make your favorite dishes (including Libby's canned 100% pure pumpkin). They also offer a selection of hard-to-find kitchen accessories (cheesecloth, roasting bags, measuring cups and spoons, pie plates, etc.). Note: Please be sure your online holiday orders are in by November 18. The store website is here and the online ordering site is here. Thanksgiving is located at 20 rue St. Paul, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 42 77 68 29, thanksgivingparis@orange.fr. 

* MyAmericanMarket.com sells pretty much everything you need to prepare your Thanksgiving feast, except the turkey: cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, cornbread mix, stuffing, gravy, corn syrup, and more! They have lots of ingredients and treats for other holidays, too, including eggnog and candy canes. They are 100% online and will deliver anywhere in Europe. You can order right up until noon on November 23rd and get your goodies shipped to you in France on Thanksgiving Day! "But then you'd need to be a very efficient chef!" as Therese at the company tells me.  Specific Thanksgiving foods are on a special page here. 

Above: The much-loved, often-parodied painting is Norman Rockwell's "Freedom from Want" from 1942. Everyone in it was a Rockwell family member or friend; they were photographed individually and painted into the scene. Learn more about the painting and artist here.

Book Giveaway: From One Expert to Another

Wine writer Jancis Robinson is known for big books, such as the 912-page Oxford Companion to Wine (currently in its fourth, much-revised edition) and the 1280-page Wine Grapes (which won every major wine book award in the year of its publication). Perhaps that’s one reason her newest title, which just came out in the US, is so compelling: how much of her 40 years of wine experience could she possibly cram into just 111 pages, between two tiny 5” x 7” covers?

As you might have expected...quite a lot.

To celebrate the publication of this new hardcover version (the first was a paperback published in the UK in February), Jancis’ New York publisher Abrams, has given me five copies of The 24-Hour Wine Expert to give away. With corkscrews! Yep, to enter simply leave a comment below. Five lucky readers will get a copy of the book and a corkscrew to match.

Jancis is one of the most-respected, most-prolific wine writers working today. And boy, does she work. Based in London, she travels roughly one third of the year:  tasting, rating and writing for a multitude of publications including her website JancisRobinson.com, which is updated daily and has subscribers in more than 100 countries. Jancis writes a weekly column for the Financial Times while Decanter called her “the most respected wine critic and journalist in the world.” She even provides advice to the wine cellar of Queen Elizabeth II. (I love the idea of the Queen ringing up...Jan? Sorry to be a bother, but the King of Spain is on his way and I have no idea what to pour!)

When I caught up with her last week, Jancis was up in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where she told me she had just finished tasting some 175 vintages.

“This week?” I asked.

“Today,” she replied.

To learn more about her background and accomplishments, read her shortish Wikipedia bio here or the full, amazing one here...but be forewarned: whatever you’ve done with your life, you’ll feel like a total slacker if you do!

This new book, Jancis says, is for people who like wine but don’t feel quite sure of themselves in a wine shop buying for a dinner party...or in a restaurant, wine list in hand. “It’s for people who want a shortcut to the essentials,” she says. 

And so, after taking us quickly but comprehensively through the wine regions of the world and their grapes, she sets out to painlessly help us make the most of what she calls “the most delicious, stimulating, varied and infuriatingly complicated drink in the world.”

Topics include how to select the right bottle at retail; understanding the properties of color and aroma; what the different shapes of bottles and their labels tell you; what terms like “full body,” “supple,” “round” and “nose” really mean; what wines pair well with foods such as pizza, sushi or Thai; what the terms organic, biodynamic and natural mean in the wine world; how to chill and warm wines; and much more.

And what about that perennial question about how price correlates to quality? As in, how much do we really need to spend to get a good bottle?

“There is no direct correlation between price and quality in wine,” she writes, before giving us a handy list of underpriced, overpriced and splurge-worthy labels. “Many wines are overpriced because of inflated market demand, ambition, greed, or just because a marketing person sees the need for an ‘icon wine’ in the range. The difference in quality between wines at the top and bottom ends of the price scale is narrower than it has ever been, while the difference in price has never been greater.

“Packaging, shopping, marketing, and, in many countries, local taxes and duties tend to account for by far the majority of the price of very cheap wines,” Jancis continues, “with the cost of the liquid itself representing a tiny fraction of what you are paying. Ambition is responsible for much of the selling price of more expensive wines. For this reason, the best value is generally in the range of $10 to $30 a bottle. Here, you more or less get what you pay for.”

Sound good? Then leave a comment below (click where it says comments) for your chance to win a copy...and a corkscrew! If you have a wine anecdote to share, even better! And please be sure to include your email address or we can’t reach you if you win...best is to put it right in the body of your comment text. 

If you want to buy the book, it’s in all the major retailers or order it on Amazon here.

Provence for Special-Need Kids and Adults

I recently came across a company called Go Provence, offering "supported holidays" for kids and adults with learning disabilities, autism and other challenges. The goal is to provide stimulating, fun and safe vacations for all ages in the South of France...and I think what they're doing is fantastic.

Go Provence was founded in 2010 by British expats Ian Callen, Anna Callen and Neil Manser. While they cater primarily to clients from the UK, they've had guests come from elsewhere in Europe and from the US as well.

Based near the Gorges du Verdon, in a spectacularly beautiful part of Provence, Go Provence offers all-inclusive themed holidays that mix outdoor adventure, excursions and relaxation. 

For those who need it, they can even accompany clients to and from the UK.  There are also off-season trips, such as a learn-to-ski trip in Andorra in January, 2017 (more on that below) and a trip to Italy in October, 2017.

Dates for all 2017 trips have just been posted on the company’s website here.  Themes include Wildlife Photography, Trekking, Wolf Tracking, World Cuisine, Great Adventure, Music Week,  Art Holiday, Discover Provence, Water Holiday, Great Adventure and School of Rock.

There will be also be a special week in Provence designed for people who use wheelchairs. How great is that?

Go Provence also creates customized, private holidays for four people or more. 

For family members and full-time carers who choose to stay in Provence at the same time, Go Provence will happily arrange accommodation nearby, in the village of Esparron de Verdon. 

Ian and Anna Callen have lived in Provence, near the Gorges du Verdon, since 2007; they have three children. Ian worked previously at The Olive Tree International School in nearby Quinson, teaching photography, horticulture, conservation, biology and astronomy to children with challenging behaviour. There’s a very nice story about him here.

Anna also has a background in teaching children, particularly those with dyslexia and challenging behavior. She formerly worked for the local Tourist Office and knows the area exceedingly well.

Neil has lived in France for 20 years after having worked with special-need kids in the UK and with special-need adults in Malaysia. His training is in social care, epilepsy and Midazolam, safeguarding vulnerable adults and the Mental Capacity Act. Neil is the Go Provence chef and lives near St. Tropez.

All the Go Provence staff are fully bi-lingual (French and English) and experienced and first-aid trained to a Red Cross standard. The facility is registered with a local doctor and nurse and has access to nearby hospitals.

For those interested in an active winter getaway, Go Provence is offering a five-night learn-to-ski holiday in Catalan-speaking Andorra in January. Guests will fly from Gatwick to Toulouse, France on January 8, then travel by mini bus to the beautiful Pyrenean village of Arinsal, set 1467m above sea level. They’ll stay (full board) at the Hotel Solana for five nights, enjoying five days at ski school with fully qualified instructors, ski gear and boarding passes included. Support will be on hand 24/7; the trip is €2090 per person.  The registration deadline for the ski trip is October 24 and it only happens if there are five guests or more. More on the ski trip is here.

Heading into their seventh year with Go Provence, Ian says the team feels enormous pride in what they’ve helped their clients accomplish.

“We love seeing them achieve their goals,” he tells me. “We had a client Ed, a great photographer who had won awards for his work but couldn't find anyone to give him an exhibition. We were able to arrange a show for him in a local restaurant. We had an opening evening, the local press turned up and Ed sold five photos.  As you can imagine, he was a very happy man." 

Just around the time I was writing this, Ian emailed to tell me about his newest offering, a program called Travel Buddies, providing travel planning support and travel companions for a wide range of destinations. And in the months to come, Go Provence plans to add supported backpacking holidays around Europe, a Northern Lights holiday in Sweden and volunteer holidays in developing countries.

“We want to change the way that people with special needs travel...and increase their opportunities to do so...to the point where access to travel becomes standard,” Ian says. “Travel is so important to ones sense of happiness! A friend of mine, who worked in a hospice sitting with terminally ill people during their last days, once told me that when people looked back at their lives and talked about their regrets, they didn’t mention money or careers. He said that they wished they had spent more time with their family and friends...and that they had traveled more.” 

For more info, photos, mailing list sign-up and other details, visit the website here. Ian also writes a blog about the Gorges du Verdon, which you can see here.

Photos: (1-8) Among the many activities offered to Go Provence clients are kayaking, market shopping, painting, adventure sports, farm visits and photography. (9) In January 2017, the company will host a ski trip to Andorra.  (10-12) Go Provence summer holidays are based in a large country house one kilometer from the village of Moustiers Sainte-Marie, considered among the most beautiful in Provence.  The house was restored in the winter of 2013/14. It has a lovely garden with views over to Moustiers and the breathtaking Gorges du Verdon.

Group Events with Space Available in October

 A free financial forum for expats will be held at Chateau La Coste, the very-unique, very-beautiful wine domaine not far from Aix. 

Two scenes from the market in Aix. Join a local chef/cooking instructor for an insiders' tour.

The Luberon village of Gordes at sunrise. Ok, so you won't see the sunrise on the Luberon Foodie Bike Tour...but you'll see tons of other gorgeous scenery...and taste some terrific artisan foods.

On Sunday Oct 9, there's a charity lunch and yard sale in St. Remy to benefit the Busoga Trust, which builds wells (like this one) in Uganda.

In an 18th-centry farmhouse in Tarascon, join an Oct 15 small-group cooking class followed by dinner.

In legendary Chateauneuf-du-Pape, learn about the local wines in this cellar dating from the 12th and 13th centuries....then enjoy lunch prepared by a top local chef. 

Two spots remain in a writers retreat taking place at Julia Child's former house in Provence. The dates are Oct 16 to 23.

Rosé wines and goat cheese: two of the four food groups in Provence! You'll enjoy both on the Foodie Tuesday walking tour in St. Remy, October 18 or 25.

In Uzes, who could resist a market-shopping trip with the chef, followed by a cooking class and lunch?

If you’ll be in Provence in October...or are still mulling on a trip...here are some special group activities (market tours, cooking classes, wine tastings, a writers’ retreat, a luncheon for a great cause and more) that still have space available. Joining a group gives you access to activities you might not be able to enjoy otherwise. Plus, you'll almost certainly pay less than you would if going it alone. And sometimes a group is just more fun, right? I also stuck in one free event (on Oct 6) that will interest foreigners already living part or full time in France...and those of you considering it. All of the events below are in English...I hope you find something you'd love to do!

Thursday Oct 6: La Tour de Finance, a free financial forum for expats, will be held at the gorgeous winery Château La Coste, in Le Puy Sainte-Réparade, ten minutes north of Aix. From 9:30 am to about 2 pm, five presentations will tackle how to make the most of your assets in France, international payments, mortgages, pensions, taxes and wealth management. The forum brings together key players who assist expats settling or already living here…and provides a nice opportunity to socialize and share your experiences with others. There will be a free buffet lunch and plenty of time for questions. The Tour de Finance is sponsored by Currencies Direct (FX currency brokers) and Spectrum (independent financial advisors), but they’ve promised me it’s not designed to overtly promote either company. Walk-ins will be welcome but reservations are appreciated. To book or for questions, click here or email: sam.h@currenciesdirect.com. *Note: If you’ve never visited the 600-acre wine domaine Chateau La Coste, definitely plan to walk the grounds; see the privately commissioned collection of sculpture and architectural works; and perhaps even take a peek at the brand-new hotel Villa la Coste, with 12 of 25 suites now finished. Tickets for the art and architecture walk can be purchased on site. 

Thursday Oct 6, Tuesday Oct 11 or Wednesday Oct 12. A Luberon Foodie Bike Tour! Choose your bike--road bike, hybrid or electric bike--and then off you go on a glorious full-day adventure in the Luberon. Depending on the day of the week, your route might include a local market, an olive mill, a goat farm for a tasting of fresh goat cheeses, an ancient bread bakery still in use, a studio making superb confiture, the winery made famous in Peter Mayle's movie A Good Year and a tasting of truffle products. (Turns out our English-speaking bike guide is a chef too, with 20 years experience working in Provence and a Michelin star for pastry on his CV. So ask all the questions you like: he knows everything about the local foods!) Plus you'll experience some of the top sites in the Luberon such as the Abbaye de Senanque, The Chateau of the Marquis de Sade and the historic hilltowns of Gordes, LaCoste, Bonnieux, Menerbes and Oppede le Vieux. Taste wonderful artisan foods, go at whatever pace feels perfect to you and enjoy perfect fall biking weather. Total cycling is about 60 km or 38 miles but that's flexible. The day starts in Bonnieux around 8:30 am and ends about 5 pm. Price: Cost: 175€ per person. Price includes bike rental, helmets, market tastings, artisanal visits and tastings, restaurant lunch and any museum entry fees. To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Friday Oct 7 or Friday Oct 14: Join this popular morning walking tour to discover the hidden corners and wonderful food merchants of Aix. En route, you’ll learn a bit of history and find out what gives Aix its special personality. Plus, your charming guide, a local chef/cooking instructor, will also discuss the French way of life and art de vivre, bien sur! Indian Summer will be in full swing so the markets will be overflowing with late-harvest heirloom tomatoes and the sweetest Muscat grapes, for example. This 2.5-hour tour includes all tastings at historic food merchants and in the market, a stop for coffee, a cheese and wine tasting as well as seasonal recipes, a map and restaurant suggestions which are handed out at the end. Eight participants max. Price: 65€ per person. To book: juliemautner@aol.com. 

Sunday Oct 9: Lucy Bakr holds regular fundraising events in Provence for the Busoga Trust, a UK-based charity building wells in rural Uganda, providing clean water for drinking, cooking and sanitation. Lucy’s next event is an all-day yard sale/brocante from 10 am to 4 pm, with a homemade lunch for anyone who wants to join in at 12:30. She hasn’t chosen the menu yet but her meals are always simple, colorful and delicious. Over the years I’ve made some great new friends at Lucy’s table. Lunch costs 20€ per person; all revenues from the sale, raffle and lunch go to Busoga Trust. For the yard sale, just show up at 1 ave. Baltus in St. Remy. To reserve your place for lunch—or to donate something for the sale-- email: lucydavid@bakr.fr. 

Saturday Oct 15. Meet in Châteauneuf-du-Pape at noon for an introduction to the wines of the region with a master sommelier. It's held in a vaulted cellar dating from the 12th and 13th centuries, located at the top of the village, right by the church...in a magical, candle-lit space that once stored wines for the Popes when they were based in Avignon. Your host is a charming raconteur who speaks terrific English…and he loves to make the wines come alive with tasting tips and tales about the personalities behind each domaine. The tasting is followed by lunch, prepared by one of the top chefs in the region. The lunch ends around 2:45 pm and the package costs 100 € per person. The vibe is good fun...not serious! If you need transport, I’m happy to try to arrange it for you. To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Saturday Oct 15. In Tarascon, 15 minutes west of St. Remy, a small group will gather at 5 pm for a cooking class followed by dinner with wine in a beautifully restored 18th-century mas (farmhouse). If you wish, you can meet at the Hotel Gounod in St. Remy at 4:45 pm and follow the others to Tarascon. The evening ends at roughly 9:30 pm and the class/dinner costs 120€ per person. If you need transport, I’m happy to try to arrange it for you. To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Sunday Oct 16 to Sunday Oct 23. Due to a cancellation, there are two spots left in this food-writing retreat, to be held at Julia Child's old farmhouse, between Valbonne and Grasse, 30 km from the Nice Airport. Your instructor will be Betsy Andrews (poet, writing teacher, former executive editor at Saveur and current editor-at-large at Organic Life). Price: $2550 per person includes instruction, mentoring, housing and all meals except two dinners. To learn more about the workshop, click here or inquire directly to: nicole@cooknscribble.com. For more about the house and its new owners, see my recent story here. Food writer Julia Moskin recently spent a week cooking in the house and wrote about it for the New York Times here.

Tuesday Oct 18 or Tuesday Oct 25. Foodie Tuesday! St. Remy is filled with artisanal food producers, working in traditional ways, keeping local food traditions alive. And luckily many of them have shops and workshops, right in the heart of the village. Rendezvous at the Tourist Office at 10 am...and then we hit the rue running! Staying in the heart of the village (with minimal walking) we’ll roam from shop to shop, tasting homemade chocolates, cookies, nougat, flavored salts, honey, olive oils, tapenades, confitures and more. Then we'll move on to a cheese tasting, enjoyed with a glass of one of one of our favorite local wines.  Along the way you'll get a taste of the rich history of this cobblestoned village ...and a glimpse into real local life from your charming and knowledgeable guide. The tour ends around 12:30 and we'll happily recommend a restaurant for lunch. Price: 70€ per person for adults, 50€ for ages 12 to 18 and 30€ for kids 6 to 12. Kids under 6 are welcome to join the party free, as long as they're fearless and willing to taste! To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Wednesday Oct 19 or Wednesday Oct 26.  This popular cooking school in the beautiful village of Uzès has a few spaces available in their “French Market Class.” The day starts at the glorious outdoor market, with the chef as your guide. Learn to select seasonal produce, enjoy chatting with local producers and be part the atmosphere of a typical French market. Back at the school, you’ll create a three-course menu with the chef’s guidance and instruction. Wine and cheese will round out the meal...and a perfect day in Uzès. Price: 150€ per person. To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Sunday Oct 23 and Sunday Nov 6. Popular cooking classes in English are offered at the Les Halles indoor food market in Avignon, by an American chef with 20 years of experience cooking in some of the finest restaurants and hotels in Provence. Class starts at 9:30 am when you'll shop the market with the chef and buy the ingredients for the menu, always based around Provencale dishes but with lots of improv. Around 10:30 am, you'll start preparing the appetizer, main course and dessert. At noon, you'll be ready for a nice glass of local wine, followed by lunch...the meal you've prepared, of course! The class ends around 1:30 or when the market shuts down shortly thereafter. Price: The market tour, class, meal and wine  is 100€per person. To book: juliemautner@aol.com.

Until Sept 25: The Paris Pop-Up in Arles

In the food world, pop-up restaurants are all the rage. The idea is that a chef moves into temporary quarters in a new space, city or country, allowing him to share his cuisine with a new clientele while drawing inspiration from local chefs, new ingredients and unfamiliar culinary techniques.

The ancient city of Arles has had its own pop-up since late April, on the terrace of the historic Nord-Pinus Hotel. Since I've been travelling I haven't had the chance to go but my foodie friends tell me the food is really great. If you haven’t been, the Paris Pop-Up will stay open until September 25 so you still have the chance to experience it. The concept plays on the success of the first Paris Pop-Up, which took over the hotel’s terrace last summer.

And having fallen in love with Arles and Provence, the folks behind the Paris Pop-Up have now opened their own place in Arles, where they’ve turned the tables and are playing host to a roster of other “nomadic” chefs. More on that is below.

The Paris Pop-Up is the brainchild of British chef Harry Cummins and Canadian-born sommelier Laura Vidal, who hatched the plan while working together at Frenchie Restaurant in Paris, he as head chef and she as GM and wine director. In December 2012, Harry travelled to London and attended a pop-up dinner. Back in Paris, he and Laura decided to launch their own pop-up, inspired by the “bistronomy” movement...meaning innovative, gastronomic cuisine served in a casual, bistro-style atmosphere. 

Thanks to the generosity and willingness of their fellow Parisian chefs, restaurateurs and assorted friends, they were able to “play restaurant” by occupying empty spaces and restaurants on closing days.  They offered what has now become their formula: seasonal menus of creative dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, paired with wines or other interesting drinks.

Getting a great response, the two started thinking about opening their own place in Paris but decided they’d rather travel and not be tied down to the demands of a traditional restaurant. So since January 2013, they’ve been popping-up in Montreal, New York, California, Kyoto, Quebec City, Fez, Barcelona and London. A full list is here.

Since September 2014, Julia Mitton (another Canadian...from Nova Scotia) has joined them; they say Julia brings with her “world-class organizational skills, a love of well-sourced product, an international expertise and the entrepreneurial spirit that fits perfectly with our vision.”

Sometimes the pop-ups are inspired by a wine region that Laura loves; other times, by a type of cuisine that Harry already enjoys cooking or wants to explore in more depth. From there they create a tasting menu and select appropriate wines. Winemakers, sommeliers and brewers are often invited to participate, allowing them first-hand interaction with guests.

In Arles, the menu has been changing every ten days or so.

Starters currently include pineapple tomato gaspacho with yellow peppers, peaches and nectarines; and grilled mackerel with green beans and homemade pesto.

Popular main courses have been duck magret with a ragout of lentils and duck hearts, roasted figs and balsamic; and homemade hand-rolled tagliolini laced with fresh courgettes, chili, crab meat and fresh herbs.

The tapas menu offers six selections, including duck parfait, cured pork belly with fried rosemary and a whole barbecued quail with a miso condiment, along with simpler things such as flatbreads with homemade hummus.

Wines come from France only and start at 6€ by the glass or 25€ by the bottle.

All food allergies, intolerances and other special requests are met to the best of the team’s abilities.

Having spent the last two years working in other people’s kitchens—and having fallen in love with Arles and Provence--the trio decided to open a bistro/bar in Arles called Chardon, in May 2016. There, Laura explains, they’ve reversed the pop-up idea and are hosting other chefs who choose, like they do, to be nomadic.  Chardon serves small plates, a selection of wines and an imaginative cocktail menu. The focus is local products with ingredients coming from the region’s best farmers, fishermen, breeders and other purveyors. 

You can try the cuisines of various “chefs in residence” until October 31^st. After that, Harry, Laura and Julia will be taking back the reins, until December 19. 

“The idea behind Chardon is that that we can be there sometimes and we can also travel at others and be elsewhere,” Laura explains. “We want to have a touch base in the South of France where we can hop down to from wherever we open our next project. We currently have our eye on Paris or London, our two favorite cities!”

And now that Arles has been their home base for two summers, I asked Laura what she, Julia and Harry have found most appealing about the region...and what local restaurants have become favourites.

“We loved exploring the surrounding Camargue and the seaside close to Arles,” she told me. “It’s a cool little town and it’s really central to all these awesome places like Marseille, Sainte Marie de la Mer, Nîmes, Montpellier, Aix, Avignon and Cassis.

“In terms of other restaurants, we love La Chassagnette,” she continues. “We often go and have a tasting menu with delicious natural wine. Another favorite is definitely Le Gibolin, a local bistro with frank French fare.  Nothing fancy, just delicious and well-priced.”

Paris Pop-Up Details

The Paris Pop-Up runs until September 25, 2016, on the terrace of the Hotel Nord-Pinus in Arles. Weather permitting; you’ll be seated outside, overlooking the famous Place du Forum. In case of wind or rain, seating moves inside.

Lunch

Thursday through Sunday, from 12:30 to 3 pm

Dinner

Wednesday to Sunday, from 7:30 to 11 pm

Closed

Monday and Tuesday

Prix-Fixe Menus

32 € (starter and main course or main and dessert)

36 € (starter, main, dessert)

Tapas / Small Plates

From 5 € to 20 € 

Wine List

Bottles from 25€ to 300€ 

By the glass priced from 6€ to 13€ 

To reserve: reservations@theparispopup.com, +33 (0)7 62 23 46 43.

Chardon Details

37 rue des Arènes

13200 Arles

Lunch

Friday to Monday 12:30 to 3 pm

Dinner

Thursday to Monday 7:30 to 11:30 pm

Closed

Tuesday, Wednesday...and Thursday afternoon.

Parking

Info is here

To reserve: hello@hellochardon.com, +33 (0)9 72 86 72 04, 

Note: If you have space and might want to welcome Harry and Laura for their next pop up, they’d love to hear from you. They’re open to collaboration with all chefs, sommeliers, winemakers, foragers and producers of any kind or walk of life, etc. They’re also open to sponsorships and to creating Paris Pop-Up events based on specific products or brands. “The possibility to create a concept for one day (or more), inspired by a feeling, music, culture or a theme, is a rare freedom,” Laura says. “The goal is to share, learn, enjoy and have a good time. There are so many ways to collaborate that fit with this spirit of generosity and fun.” For more info: theparispopup@gmail.com.