Showing posts with label PROVENCE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PROVENCE. Show all posts

Friday, February 20, 2026

Just Opened: Picasso and Kahlo at Carrières des Lumières

The Carrières des Lumières (Quarries of Light) is a magical space in a vast cave-like quarry at the base of the hilltop village of Les Baux de Provence. There in the cool darkness, 100 video projectors splash 2,000 still and moving images over an area of more than 75,000 square feet, onto the 45-foot-high walls and onto the stone floor, while 74 speakers provide the perfectly choreographed soundtrack. The sound-and-light show changes once a year and is one of the most-popular, most-visited sites in Provence. 

The 2026 show opened this week and it looks sure to be a huge hit, just like the Monet and Rousseau show was last year. As always, there are two separate ‘’immersive experiences’’ and they run on a continuous loop. This year the main show (35 minutes) is "Picasso, Art in Motion" and the shorter one (15 minutes) is "Frida Kahlo: At the Very Heart.’’

Pablo Picasso was, of course, one of the most influential artists of the 20th century. In addition to his painting and drawings, the show displays the other techniques that the Spanish artist explored such as engraving, sculpture, collage, assemblages, folding and ceramics. It’s a journey through his entire palette, from the warm hues of his native Spain to the whirlwind of colors in his paintings of Parisian cabarets and balls to his legendary melancholic blues to the delicate pinks that precede the striking grays of his monumental Guernica.

From Celestina to Les Demoiselles d'Avignon and The Supplicant, you’ll discover the faces of the women who filled his life and inspired some of the major turning points in his work.

The Frida Kahlo projection, meanwhile, explores the intimacy and creative force of the legendary Mexican artist (1907-1954) ‘’through an explosion of colors, symbols and emotions.’’ The walls are transformed to reflect the rhythm of Frida's life: from her early works marked by physical suffering and the search for self to her most assertive paintings ‘’where the power of her identity and commitment bursts forth.’’

In just a few short minutes you’ll see the evolution of an artist who ‘’transformed pain into art, fragility into strength, and the intimate into the universal.’’

As in years past, there’s an accompanying soundtrack and the playlists are available via Spotify on the Carrières website. I’ve always felt that the soundtrack plays a huge part in the impact of the show…and people around here still talk about the brilliant pairing of Salvador Dali and Pink Floyd in 2020.

The program will be on view until January, 2027. 

In addition to Picasso/Kahlo, there will be special repeat showing of The Little Prince in the Carrières on certain dates in April and May, to mark the 80th anniversary of the publication of Antoine de Saint Exupéry's masterpiece. Set to music, the words of the story come to life as Saint Exupéry's watercolors unfold around you, bringing all the characters to life. Details are on the Carrières website. 


The Carrières des Lumières sits in the Val d’Enfer, a stone's throw Les Baux itself; you can easily walk between them but on foot you have a bit of a climb up to the village itself.  These quarries produced the white limestone used for the construction of the village of Les Baux, the Château des Baux and many buildings in surrounding villages including St. Remy. Aluminum ore bauxite was discovered here in 1821 by geologist Pierre Berthier, who named it after the village. In 1935, the use of more-modern materials led to the quarries' demise.  

Dramatic and otherworldly looking, the area has inspired artists of all sorts; it provided the setting for Dante’s Divine Comedy and Gounod created his opera Mireille here. Later, Cocteau came here to film The Testament of Orpheus.  A 16-minute film tracing Cocteau’s life can be seen in the Salle Cocteau, adjacent to the main space.

The Carrières du Val d’Enfer have been awarded Natural Monument status in France. 

The first transformation of the abandoned quarries began in 1976 with the development of a project using the huge rocky walls for sound and light performances.

Formerly known as the Cathedrale des Images, the venue closed in 2011 and re-opened (after a €2 million re-do) as the Carrières des Lumières the following year. Since then, it’s been managed by Culturespaces. Founded by Bruno Monnier in 1990, Culturespaces is the leading private operator/manager of monuments, museums and art centers in France. The Culturespaces Foundation, founded in 2009, fosters access to art and culture for children affected by illness, disability or poverty. One of France’s benchmark foundations, it’s known for initiatives that blend culture, education and solidarity.

Based on the wide popularity of the Carrières des Lumières, Culturespaces went on to launch a number of similar “digital art centers” including the Atelier des Lumières, Paris (2018), the Bunker des Lumières, Jeju (2018), the Bassins des Lumières and Bordeaux (2020). More recent openings include the Hall des Lumières (New York), the Fabrique des Lumières (Amsterdam) and the Théâtre des Lumières (Seoul). To see all the locations and their programing, click here.

Heads up to first-time visitors: it’s cool inside the quarry so you might want a sweater or light jacket. The stone floors are uneven so you might want a cane or walking stick as well. There are stone benches around the perimeter of the interior and you can stay as long as you like. As you exit, there’s a small but interesting shop selling books and other items pertaining to the history of Provence, Les Baux, the Carrières and the Val d’Infer.

The Cafe des Carrières is open every day except December 25, from 10 am daily, serving drinks, sandwiches and sweets. It closes at 5 pm, 6 pm or 6:30 pm depending on the season.

As in years past, you can just show up at the Carrières and buy a ticket. But to avoid long lines in season, they suggest you book online here.  You can also buy tickets in advance at the Carrières ticket office or at all FNAC stores.

Pricing for 2026 is:  €16.50 (adults), €15.50 seniors (65 and up), €14 students and free for journalists, jobseekers, the disabled and kids under 7. On the website you’ll also see family rates and combined-visit prices (for the Carrières, the Chateau des Baux and the Musée Yves Brayer), along with background, directions and much more. 

The Carrières is open seven days a week and last entry is one hour before closing. Hours are as follows: 

March: 9:30 am - 6 pm
April, May, June, Sept & Oct: 9:30 am - 7 pm 
July & Aug: 9 am - 7:30 pm
Nov, Dec, Jan: 10 am - 6 pm 

Carrières des Lumières 

Route de Maillane  
13520 Les Baux de Provence 
Tel: +33 (0)4  90 49 20 02
carrieres-lumieres.com

Note: In addition to Picasso/Kahlo, there will be special showing of The Little Prince in the Carrières on certain dates in April and May, to mark the 80th anniversary of the publication of Antoine de Saint Exupéry's masterpiece. Set to music, the words of the story come to life as Saint Exupéry's watercolors unfold around you, bringing the characters to life. Details are on the Carrières website. 

And another note: starting July 4, 2026,  the Carrières will present *Océan*, an immersion in the underwater world, a new immersive experience dedicated to the beauty and richness of the oceans. The show will alternate with the Picasso/Kahlo show...check the schedule online for details.


Photos: (1) Poster for the new show.  (2-6) Three Picasso and two Kahlo scenes from the show. Photos courtesy of Culturespaces. (7) The old bauxite quarry in daylight; the geologist who first discovered aluminum ore here in 1821 named it after the village. (8) One section of the vast space is lit beautifully when the Carrieres hosts private parties and other events. I took this photo at the launch party for the new show a few years ago. (9) One of my favorite photos of the village of Les Baux, taken by Philippe Clairo (@craignos). (10) To celebrate the book's 80th anniversary, there will be a special repeat performance of The Little Prince, on certain dates in April and May. See the website for dates and details.

Saturday, January 31, 2026

Guest Post: One Great Day in Provence

Whenever I get together with my friends Keith and Val Van Sickle, we love to share French intel. Where've you been, what'd you do? Who'd you meet, where'd you eat? The Van Sickles split their time between Provence and Northern California, spending three months each year based in St.-Rémy. Because they do lots of exploring, I asked them to suggest ''One Great Day in Provence'' for you. They chose to focus on the Alpilles (''Little Alps''), our beloved home turf, named for the 25-km-long mini-mountain range where, to the north and south, you'll find villages such as St.-Rémy, Eygalieres, Les Baux, Maussane and others. Keith and Val are both retired (Val from consulting, Keith from finance) and they travel widely. Keith is the author of An Insider’s Guide to Provence, One Sip at a Time, and Are We French Yet? He also publishes the blog Life in Provence. So read on for Keith's guest post about One Great Day!

A field of red flowers

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One of the many things that Val and I love about St-Rémy is that it sits at the foot of the Alpilles Mountains, a great place to hike and bike. 

The Alpilles aren’t particularly high, with the tallest peak about 1,600 feet, which means there are plenty of hikes that aren’t too strenuous. A great day for us is to hike in the Alpilles, enjoy a leisurely lunch at a favorite restaurant, and then shop for Provençal essentials like wine and olive oil.

Hiking in the Alpilles

One favorite hike starts from a parking lot called Parking de la Caume, at the top of the road between St-Rémy and Maussane-les-Alpilles. After parking, we head to the paved trail that begins at the back of the lot. Because Provence can get hot, we usually hike in the morning and carry plenty of water.

The trail is called the Randonée de la Caume and if you follow it all the way, it will take you up to the giant communication tower that you can see for miles around. This is a nice route, but instead of following it, we turn off onto a dirt road marked as the AL 115, about ¼ mile from the start. It can be found on a helpful hiking map we use to for this and other trails in the Alpilles.

A landscape with trees and a rock in the background

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We like this route because it is never crowded and the views are great. Sometimes we see the forest and sometimes sheer rock walls rising up next to the path. From a few spots we can see a long way to the south, to near the Mediterranean coast. The one thing we have to watch out for are bikers, because they can show up suddenly if they are riding fast.

A person and a dog in a rocky area

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We hike as far as we want and then turn around, and at this point we are usually getting hungry. If we’ve timed it right it’s lunch time, so we head to Maussane and one of our favorite restaurants, l’Oustaloun.

L’Oustaloun

This is a family-run hotel/restaurant that has been in business for decades. The couple that runs it is very friendly—“We love our clients,” they say—and the food is always good.

A building with signs on the front

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The chef has been awarded the title of Maître Restauranteur, a special honor that means everything is fresh and homemade. I can’t eat gluten and the chef knows exactly what is in each dish, so he is able to guide me to safe eating.

A plate of food on a table

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The cuisine is authentic Provençal and I love the timbale, an eggplant confit surrounded by a tomato and red pepper coulis. The menu changes with the seasons so the dishes always use fresh ingredients, many of which are sourced locally.

On a warm day we sit at the outdoor tables on the town’s lovely central square, and if it’s cool we enjoy the cozy dining room with its arched ceiling.

The Best Olive Oil

The area around Maussane is known for olive oil, and local producers have captured several world championships. It is said that oil from here was used to anoint France’s first Christian king, Clovis, in the year 496.

Our favorite place for olive oil is Moulin Castelas, just outside of Maussane. The staff speaks English—the owners once lived in the United States—and is very friendly. They let you taste anything you’d like and sometimes you can tour the olive mill itself. Tables are arranged outside if you’d like to taste there, or just rest your feet for a few minutes.

A person standing in front of a shelf with bottles of oil

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One of Castelas’ specialties is their wide range of flavored oils, where they add ingredients like citrus, rosemary, and basil. Unlike many producers that just add flavorings to their oils, Castelas macerates their olives together with the other ingredient—thyme, for example—and then filters it at the end. The results are great for salad dressings, to put on fish, or whatever strikes your fancy. We stock up every time we arrive in Provence.

Something for the Cellar

A field of vines with trees and mountains in the background

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After olive oil, another essential is wine, and one of our favorite caves is Mas Sainte Berthe, which sits in the shadow of Les Baux-de-Provence’s fortress.

A counter with bottles of wine

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Sainte Berthe is known for its rosés, but all its wines are excellent. You can try them in their friendly, English-speaking tasting room, then buy what you like. Besides wine in bottles, they also sell it in 5 or 10 liter “bag in box.” These boxed wines are quite good and a great bargain, especially if you will be entertaining a group.

Back Home

We are now tired, well fed, and well stocked. It’s a routine we often follow when we are newly arrived in St-Rémy. But it’s only the beginning, as many more hikes and meals await. And you never know when you’ll need more olive oil or another bottle of wine! 

Photos:

(1) Keith, Val and their sweet dog Mica at the Aéro-Club De Saint-Rémy, the Alpilles behind them. (2) A glorious coquelicot (poppy) field with the Alpilles in the background; photo by Barbara Tyler. (3, 4) Hiking photos by Keith. (5) L'Oustaloun, in Maussane; photo courtesy of the restaurant. (6) Timbale and (7) Moulin Castelas, photos by Keith. (8, 9) The vineyard and tasting room at Mas Sainte Berthe.

Monday, November 4, 2024

You're Invited: Thanksgiving in St. Remy!

Co-owner Bastien Matagliati and chef Richard Smache will host their first-ever American-style Thanksgiving at the Bistrot de Saint Remy on Thursday November 28. Chef Richard has spent lots of time in the US and is very familiar with the traditional Thanksgiving menu...but plans to give it a little French twist, of course. "No worries!" he told me. "I've got this!" 

The 60€-per-person lunch is open to everyone--singles, couples, families--and all nationalities are welcome! 

The Bistrot de Saint Remy is a sister restaurant to the Bistrot du Paradou; Paradou owner Vincent Quenin is Bastien's business partner. These are two of my favorite restaurants and I'm so delighted that the owners have offered to host this special fête! Vincent (who also has the Bistrot Saint-Roch in Maussane) says he hopes it will become an annual event. 

The festive afternoon begins at 1 pm with a sparkling Thanksgiving aperitif. Seating will follow at communal tables of 10 to 14 people each, with the meal served family style. The party will be indoors or out, depending on weather, and is expected to end around 4 pm. 

MENU

*Starter of squash soup
*Turkey with French-style stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce
*Mashed potatoes
*Green beans
*A selection of traditional Thanksgiving desserts
*Serve-yourself wines in red, white and rosé

Cocktails, coffee, tea, bottled water and soft drinks will be available at an extra charge.

Seating is limited and you must reserve and pay in advance; booking info is below. The deadline to book is Thursday November 21.

Chef says most special dietary requests can be accommodated but please let him know as much in advance as possible. Do this by sending a message with your name, phone and request to the email below. 

My friends at the dining-and-travel club La Table des Amis have kindly offered to handle booking and payment for Thanksgiving. You need not be a member to attend but think about joining anyway...they'd love to have you! 

To book for Thanksgiving, click here

Questions about the event? Email: info@latabledesamis.com. Or, call me (+33 6 29 22 16 96) or Barney Lehrer (+33 6 19 82 36 27). 

For the backstory on La Table des Amis, click hereFor info on joining, click here

The Bistrot de Saint Remy is located at 12 blvd. Gambetta, 13210 St. Remy de Provence. Parking is on the street or in nearby lots. To see what I wrote when they opened in 2020, click here.

Can't join us in St. Remy? Dommage! Just in case, here are some other nice holiday options for you...

*The Avignon Chapter of Democrats Abroad will hold their annual Thanksgiving lunch on Saturday Nov 30 from 1 to 5 pm. This will be a pot-luck, family-style celebration in a private home in Cavaillon, for 40 people max. For more info or to reserve: dennis.shibut@gmail.com. 

*If you'll be on the French Riviera rather than in Provence in late November, not to worry! The American Club of the Riviera hosts an annual Thanksgiving luncheon for members (195€) and guests (245€), at the Hotel Hermitage in Monaco. This year it's Thursday Nov 28 at 12:30 pm. Non-members who join the ACR for 2025 get special Thanksgiving pricing; email Timothy Molyneux (teldata.consulting@gmail.com) for details. Otherwise all the Thanksgiving info is here

*American chef Jon Chiri will once again offer a Thanksgiving plat du jour for lunch on Thursday Nov 28, at his cafe and cooking school in the Les Halles Market in Avignon. For info: +33 6 46 89 85 33, contact@jonathanchiri.com. 

Wishing you and your family a joyous Thanksgiving, wherever you plan to spend it!

Thursday, March 28, 2024

Michelin's 2024 Provence Restaurant Stars


For chefs and foodies alike, it's an exciting harbinger of spring: the announcement each year of the new Michelin-star ratings in the latest edition of the Guide Rouge for France. With few exceptions, Michelin has been rating French restaurants since the year 1900. (The history of Michelin restaurant ratings is here.) 

The 2024 guide has just come out and once again, because I live to please you, I've compiled a list of all the starred restaurants across Provence, the Côte d'Azur and Monaco. There are six departments in the region known as PACA (Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur) and you'll find all the Michelin-starred restaurants in PACA in my list below, organized by department and village. Each restaurant appears with its current star rating and a clickable link. Restaurants new to the starred list are designated "New 2024." 

The big news this year is the naming of two new three-star restaurants in France...one of them in Provence...bringing the total number of three stars in France to 30. Congrats to chef Fabien Ferré of La Table du Castellet in the Hotel du Castellet (a Relaix & Châteaux property in Le Castellet, in the Var) for attaining this stellar accolade...considered by many to be the pinnacle in the world of French gastronomy. 

At age 35, Ferré is the youngest three-star chef in France. "Age doesn't matter," he told Agence France-Presse last week at the Michelin awards ceremony in the city of Tours. "Life is made of failures. I've had them and yet I'm here being crowned...you have to fight." 

The other new three-star is chef Jérôme Banctel of Le Gabriel at La Réserve in Paris.

Eight restaurants are new to the two-star list this year. And 52 restaurants across France have just been awarded their first star, illustrating "a rising new generation of chefs under 40," Michelin notes. 

There are now 639 starred restaurants in France. In addition to the 30 three stars, there are 75 with two stars and 534 with one.

A couple years ago, Michelin unveiled a new "Green Star" for restaurants devoted to sustainability, recognizing them for their use of local foods and practices that preserve natural resources, protect ecological diversity and reduce waste. There are nine new Green Stars across France this year; you'll find all the Green Stars in PACA designated in green below. 

As usual, Michelin has also given some un-starred restaurants its "Bib Gourmand" designation, meaning good food at low prices...often considered a precursor to a first star. This year there are 37 Bib Gourmand restaurants in PACA and you can see them all here

For more about the winners, their restaurants and the 2024 Guide Rouge, click here

And if you're looking for this list later,you'll find it by clicking the tab up above, the one that says MICHELIN RESTAURANTS. It'll be there for the next year, until the 2025 ratings come out. So read on and Bon App!

   

ALPES DE HAUTE PROVENCE (DEPT. 04) 

Château Arnoux -- La Bonne Étape *

Mane -- Le Feuillée - Le Couvent des Minimes * NEW 2024

Manosque – Restaurant Pierre Grein *

Moustiers Sainte Marie -- La Bastide de Moustiers *


LES HAUTES ALPES (05)

Saint Crépin -- Les Tables de Gaspard *


ALPES MARITIMES (06)

Antibes -- Le Figuier de Saint Esprit *

Antibes --  Louroc *

Antibes (Cap d'Antibes) -- Les Pêcheurs *

Beaulieu sur Mer -- Le Restaurant des Rois *

Biot -- Les Terraillers *

Le Cannet (Cannes) -- Villa Archange **

La Colle sur Loup -- Alain Llorca *

Èze -- Château de la Chèvre d'Or **

Èze – Château Eza *

Èze Bord de Mer -- La Table de Patrick Raingeard *

Juan les Pins -- La Passagère *

Mandelieu-la-Napoule (06) – Bessem * NEW 2024

Menton -- Mirazur ***

Nice -- Chantecler *

Nice -- L'Aromate *

Nice -- Flaveur ** 

Nice -- Jan *

Nice --  Les Agitateurs *

Nice (06) -- ONICE * NEW 2024

Nice – Pure & V  *  

Nice (06) -- Racines - Bruno Cirino * NEW 2024

Roquebrune Cap Martin -  Ceto at the Maybourne Riviera*

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat -- Le Cap at the Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat *

Théoule sur Mer – L'Or Bleu at Hotel Tiara Yaktsa *

Vence -- Le Saint Martin *

Villeneuve Loubet  La Flibuste-Martin's *


BOUCHES DU RHONE (13) 

Aix en Provence -- Pierre Reboul at the Hôtel Château de la Pioline * 

Aix en Provence (Le Tholonet) -- Le Saint Estève *

Aix en Provence -- Le Château de Gaude *

Aix en Pvce/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- Helene Darroze at Villa Lacoste  *

Aix en Provence/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- La Table de l'Orangerie - Château de Fonscolombe  * NEW 2024

Arles -- La Chassagnette  *

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Oustau de Baumanière ***  

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Aupiho at Domaine de  Manville * 

Cabriès  -- La Bastide Bourrelly - Mathias Dandine * NEW 2024

Cassis -- La Villa Madie ***

La Ciotat -- Couleurs de Shimatani *

Eygalières -Maison Hache *

Gemenos  La Magdeleine *

La Ciotat (Le Liouquet) - LaTable de Nans at L'Auberge le Revestel *

Marseille -- Le Petit Nice ***

Marseille -- AM par Alexandre Mazzia ***

Marseille -- Saisons  *

Marseille -- L'Epuisette *

Marseille -- Signature *

Marseille -- Une Table au Sud *

Saint Cannat – Le Mas Bottero *

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Fanny Rey at L'Auberge de Saint Rémy * 

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Restaurant De Tourrel *

Salon de Provence -- Villa Salone *

Ventabren -- La Table de Ventabren *


LE VAR (83)

Les Arcs sur Agens -- Le Relais des Moines *

La Cadière d'Azur -- Hostellerie Bérard *

Le Castellet – La Table du Castellet *** -- NEW 2024

La Croix Valmer -- La Palmeraie at Château de Valmer * 

Le Lavandou – L’arbre au Soleil *

Lorgues -- Bruno *

Lorgues -- Le Jardin de Berne  at Hôtel Château de Berne * 

Ramatuelle -- La Voile at the Hôtel La Réserve Ramatuelle **

Saint Raphaël -- Recif at Hotel Les Roches Rouges *

Saint Tropez -- La Vague d'Or at Cheval Blanc***

Saint Tropez -- La Terrasse at Cheval Blanc * -- NEW 2024

Saint Tropez -- Colette *

Tourettes -- La Faventia *

 

VAUCLUSE (84)  

Ansouis -- La Closerie *

Avignon -- La Mirande *  

Avignon – La Vieille Fontaine at Hotel de L’Europe *

Avignon -- Pollen *

Avignon/ Villeneuve -- Le Prieure -- NEW 2024

Avignon/ Pujaut -- Entre Vigne et Garrigue *

Avignon / Collias -- Le Château de Collias * -- NEW 2024

Bonnieux -- La Bastide de Capelongue  *

Bonnieux -- Le Mas des Eydins ** -- NEW 2024

Cadenet -- Le Goût du Bonheur  * NEW 2024

Châteauneuf du Pape -- La Mère Germaine *

Cucuron -- La Petite Maison de Cucuron *

Gigondas --L'Oustalet *

Gordes (Joucas) -- Hostellerie le Phébus *

Lauris (84) -- Le Champ des Lunes * - NEW 2024

L'Isle sur la Sorgue -- Le Vivier *


MONACO

Le Louis XV (Alain Ducasse) ***

Pavyllon Monte Carlo at the Hotel Hermitage *

Le Blue Bay at the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel **

Yoshi at the Metropole Hotel (Joel Robuchon) *

Le Grill at Hotel de Paris *

La Table d’Antonio Salvatore au Rampoldi *

Les Ambassadeurs Hotel Le Métropole  ** -- NEW 2024