And last but not least...
Tuesday, January 10, 2017
20 French Instagrammers to Follow
Instagram is loaded with gorgeous photos of Provence. Here are 19 local accounts you might enjoy following...plus one I love in Paris. Feel free to share your favorite French IG accounts--or your own--by leaving the info under comments, at the bottom of this post.
Monday, January 2, 2017
Curtain Up! A Theater Debuts in Avignon
A new, 50-seat theater will open in mid-January in the heart of Avignon, in an 1875 hotel particulier just behind the Opera House, just off the Place Horloge.
Called Theatre Le 9 Avignon,
the venue will host a range of performances including classical music, cabaret,
comedy and small-cast plays. Arnaud Lanez, communications director of the
Avignon Opera, has signed on as the “conseiller artistique.”
The first, “toe-in-the-water” season launches
January 12 with a free performance of Les
Notes et Des Mots, a three-person evening of music, song and poetry by Tatiana
Probst, Barbara Probst and Francois Lambret. The schedule then continues until
July--when the space will be rented out for the Avignon Theater Festival--and starts
up again in fall.
To call the Theatre Le 9 a
very-personal labor of love would be a wild understatement. Owner/director
Hilary Lemaire conceived the project and chooses all the shows; her husband Jean-Pierre
Lemaire, literally built the theater and the beautiful home that surrounds it. “I always loved the idea of living above the
shop!” Hilary says. When you arrive for a performance, don’t be surprised if it’s
Hilary or Jean-Pierre who greet you at the door, take your coat and usher you into
your red-velvet seat.
For Hilary, the theater is the culmination
of a life spent in theater, both on the stage and behind the scenes.
For Jean-Pierre, an “idea guy” and an
experienced master builder, this was an important renovation project for his
most-important client yet: his wife.
Hilary calls herself London Irish:
“born in London but proud of my Irish heritage.” She trained in theatre at Rose
Bruford College of Theatre and Performance (London) and went on to marry a jazz musician. “It was a cool but not
very lucrative career,” she says, “and one of us had to pay the rent.” Hilary
found work as a teacher but the marriage didn’t last; she transitioned into
journalism and became features editor of Campaign,
a journal for the advertising industry. There she met her second husband and together
they embarked on what Hilary calls “an amazing adventure,” which, thanks to his
job with Heinz, gave them ten wonderful years in Asia.
In Japan, Hilary rekindled her theater
career, working for--and eventually running--Tokyo Theatre for Children. She
was also involved in community theater, as both an actor and a director.
After four years the couple moved to
Hong Kong, where Hilary performed in a professional, English-speaking theatre
company and eventually created her own company, presenting cabaret performances.
She also wrote a series of touring murder-mystery shows.
When retirement beckoned, the couple
settled in Antibes on the French Riviera, which they had always loved. There
Hilary created The Red Pear Theatre, presenting more than 150 shows with
artists drawn from London, Dublin and the US. She also designed and led a
workshop program that brought actors into the classrooms of five local international
schools. Actors were in and out of their
home constantly, with Hilary often donating proceeds from their performances to
Educating Cambodia, an
organization she still supports.
After a long illness, Hilary’s husband passed away
in 2010. “There was a period of adjustment,” she
says, “and then it was time to turn the page.”
Hilary met Jean-Pierre in Antibes when
a friend sent him over to help her with an electrical problem. “He rang the
bell and it was a coup de foudre,”
she told me. Eventually the couple decided to move to Avignon and set out to
find the perfect building, one that would lend itself to the unusual
combination of home and theater. “The estate agent showed us everything he
thought would appeal,” she recalls, “but nothing did, of course. Then he
mentioned a house that had just come on the market but needed way too much
work. Jean-Pierre was looking for a challenge, wanting to create something very
special. He looked at the rabbit warren of tiny rooms, the pigeons, the mess
and then at me; he saw me smiling and we both said, ‘yep, this is it.’”
The house had gorgeous bones and a fine
pedigree but was a total ruin. While Jean-Pierre isn’t exactly an architect, engineer
or contractor, he does all those things and more: electrical, woodworking,
cabinetmaking, plumbing. (Hilary calls him “a creator of buildings who has the
ideas and the skills to realize them.”) And so he set to work making Hilary’s
dream house. He evacuated 265 tons of rubble and 40 tons of wood...and built an
entirely new house within the old walls. Wiring the building took nine
kilometres of cable; he went through 400 sacks of plaster at 30 kilos each.
“And I did it all with 20 tons of amour,” he says.
Today the house has reception rooms and the jewel-box of a theater on the ground floor, with living
areas above. In the reception rooms, Hilary will be showing artwork, clothing
and jewelry from artisans she loves. A large, terraced courtyard garden will be
used for drinks at intermission and post-show mingling with performers.
“The goal was to restore the home to
what it had been...but with modern ideas,” Hilary says. “For example, I wanted
the garden to have a Japanese element. I
lived in Asia ten years and loved the contrapunto idea of blending modern, classic
and Aisan influences. Some of my furniture comes from those years and I wanted
the garden to be a zen experience.”
A private launch party on December 20, with
three performances, built the buzz around town and gave Hilary the chance to
test her sound and lighting in front of a packed house. “Arnaud from the Opera
proclaimed the acoustics ‘perfect,’ she says proudly.
Performances will be international...some
in French, others in English. Hilary says her years with Red Pear in Antibes “will
bear fruit” while many of her heavy-weight London theatre-world friends have
agreed to perform as well. To draw younger performers and theatre-goers, there
will be a Master Class program and connections are being forged with local
universities. Certain performances will be fundraisers for Educating Cambodia.
So what’s on? The debut season launches
with Les Notes et Des Mots, for one
night only, on January 12. Tickets are free (limit two per person) and can be
reserved by email or phone (see contact info below).
On Monday Feb 13, Hilary presents Love Letters, with Anne Reid and James
Bolam. Reid is an English
stage, film and TV actress known for the soap opera Coronation Street
(1961–71); the sitcom Dinnerladies (1998–2000), and her BAFTA-nominated
role as Celia Dawson in Last
Tango in Halifax (2012–16).
The next night (Feb 14), Reid will
perform My Funny Valentine, a cabaret
show in English created for this venue with Jason Carr, a two-time Tony
Award-nominated pianist. “Anne came to Antibes and happened to mention that all
she’d ever really wanted to do is cabaret,” Hilary explains. “I said ‘just give
me a date!’ She went back to London, found a musical director and returned a year
later with her first cabaret show. Since then she’s done cabaret in New York
and London...she absolutely loves it. It means so much to me that me that she’s
coming!”
On Friday March 24, there will be a
concert of arias with soprano Julie Roset and pianist Helene Blanic. Roset
recently won a competition sponsored by the Avignon Opera and as part of her
prize, Hilary provided funding to continue her studies. This concert is her
thank you. “Julie is delightfully expressive and has an infectious
personality,” Hilary reports. “Having that in this intimate setting will be
wonderful. I can’t wait to have her on our stage!”
On Friday April 28, look for a concert
by the eight students of a one-week Master Class with soprano Francoise Pollet.
(“Francoise is the diva,” Hilary proclaims. “To her, you bow down.”) The
performance will be the culmination of the students’ week-long training.
Friday May 26 there will be a two-person dramatic evening with Pierre Rochefort and another actor to be named soon.
On June 29 and 30, the first season
wraps with Tom Crean: Antarctic Explorer, a one-man show in
English, written and perfomed by Adrian Dooley. Crean was the only member of
Shackleton’s crew to go with him three times to the South Pole; Hilary
describes the work as “pure magic...the best one- man show I’ve ever
presented.”
Theatre Le 9 is located at 9, rue
Racine, just off the Place Horloge. The website is still under construction but
info on all performances is on the Facebook page here. For info
and reservations: +33 (0)4 84 14 27 28, le9theatreavignon@gmail.com.
Photos: (1) Jean-Pierre and Hilary, during construction. (2) The theater takes it's name from the address, at 9 rue Racine. (3, 4) The theater itself, before and after. (5) Anne Reid will perform February 13 and 14. (6) Reception area for pre- and post-show mingling. (7) Part of the couple's lovely kitchen, upstairs of the theater.
Photos: (1) Jean-Pierre and Hilary, during construction. (2) The theater takes it's name from the address, at 9 rue Racine. (3, 4) The theater itself, before and after. (5) Anne Reid will perform February 13 and 14. (6) Reception area for pre- and post-show mingling. (7) Part of the couple's lovely kitchen, upstairs of the theater.
Monday, December 12, 2016
My Excellent Autumn Luberon Adventure
Huile on Wheels! If you know the Luberon, you know this truck.
(Four pix) Lunch at Chez Auzet in Menerbes: squash soup, a rich Roquefort and walnut tart, goodies to take home, Gérard and his son Vincent, 6th and 7th-generation bakers.
Local rosés on display at Maison de la Truffe et du Vin. The annual truffle market in Menerbes is December 28.
(Four pix) From Le Clos de Buis in Bonnieux: breafast, a pretty guest room, owner Pierre Maurin, view of Mont Ventoux.
(Two pix) Who could resist the charming Roland Masset or his Bonnieux antique shop Au Detour d'Une Promenade?
(Three pix) At the Bastide de Gordes: me and my new best friends, setting the dining terrace, view of the back of the hotel...and its knockout view.
(Three pix) Anthony Mathieu at Le Phebus, his dad's Michelin-one-star dining room, the pool at night.
The lower "new" church in Bonnieux.
Eighty-six steps up to the 12th-century "old" church in Bonnieux...and fantastic views.
The Restaurant de la Gare: before Pierre Cardin took over...and now. It may or may not be closed for the winter...their hours remain a mystery.
The Roman bridge Pont Julien
Corinne Russo is my secret weapon when it comes to all things Luberon.
One of my Luberon tours will include a guided visit to the Ochre Conservatory.
Sunset over Roussillon means the party's over, at least for today...
Born
and raised in Cavaillon, Corinne left her job at the Cavaillon Tourist Office
last year and has teamed up with two partners in a company called Culture Couleur, which provides color
research, expertise and team building for private companies, tourism
organizations and economic
development. But tourism remains Corinne’s passion and she is frequently called upon
by hotels, restaurants and tourist boards to help with marketing, PR and
development projects...throughout all of Provence but especially across the
Luberon. No one knows the region better! Using her extensive network of contacts,
Corinne is helping me put together some fantastic new day trips and activities
to add to my offerings at WhatToDoinProvence.com,
where you’ll already find lots of fun things to do in the Luberon such as cooking
classes, a foodie bike tour, a lavender tour, art workshops, photo safaris and
more.
Our
first stop was the Le Clos de
Buis in Bonnieux, a perfect little eight-room, three-star hotel with great
prices, a large garden and pool, gorgeous views and a super-warm atmosphere
created by owners Pierre and Lydia Maurin. (The hotel isn’t new but I’d never
visited.) If you like the idea of staying in the heart of an ancient village--but
still want a country feel—this is your place. Among
other things, I loved the hotel’s pretty Provencal decor and the extra kitchen
for guests who want to do some of their own cooking. I also loved how they kept the old bread
oven, back from when this was one of a few village bakeries in the late 1800s
and early 1900s. No one
is quite sure when the bakery actually shut down but Pierre’s
cousin, age 96, says he’s never seen it open in his lifetime. If
you need a handicapped guest room, by the way, they have a really nice one
which opens right onto the streets of the village...no steps.
Speaking of steps, I love how Bonnieux—the highest perched village in the
Luberon—has an upper and lower church,
so folks who lived in the valley didn’t have to climb all the way up top to
attend mass; the 12th century "vieille église"
or old church is 86 steps up from the upper-most village street! The one everyone calls the "église neuve" (new church) was
built in 1870 and perches on the slope in front of the lower village. These
days, Sunday services are held in the new church every few weeks, on a rotating
schedule with other villages, while the old church is open occasionally for
tourist visits, classical music concerts, marriages and funerals, and special
services like Christmas Eve Mass.
Bonnieux’s
steep upper streets are lined with 800-year old buildings, most of which are
built on top of even older structures and ancient caves; from up top you get a
spectacular view. To the east, is the Fôret de Cèdres (cedar forest), with trees imported from
North Africa during the Napoleonic era.
Three km north of town, you’ll find the Roman-built Pont Julien Bridge, which crosses the narrow Calavon River and was in use until
2005! (The main road through the Luberon Valley, the D900, pretty much follows
the route of the Via Domitia, which linked Italy and Spain in Roman times.) Beyond
that, you’ll see the mighty Mont Ventoux, “the Giant of Provence,” well known
for many grueling stages of the annual Tour de France.
But
back to our own tour! Neither Corinne nor I can resist a cute antique shop and
the one directly opposite the hotel Clos de Buis, called Au Détour d’Une Promenade,
beckoned us. Owner Roland Masset was just closing up for vacation but invited
us in to poke around and chat. He’ll reopen in spring, at which time I plan to
go back and buy at least half the shop.
We
had hoped to lunch at the Cafe
de la Gare in Bonnieux, one of my favorite haunts in days gone by. Pierre
Cardin took it over a while back and I’m curious about the changes he made. But
no luck there...they were closed up tight...despite the sign that says “Open
Monday to Saturday.” (Their voicemail says the same.) This was my third attempt to try it in the
last year and a half...but I’ll try again in Spring.
Instead,
we toodled up the hill in Menerbes to see Corinne’s old pal Gérard Auzet, at
his tiny cafe just next door to the Dora Maar
House. A 6th-generation baker, Gérard sold his well-known
boulangerie and tea room Chez Auzet in Cavaillon a while back, thinking he’d
retire. But he quickly grew bored and decided to open a small cafe “for
friends,” next door to his hilltop home, this summer. At this new Chez Auzet (52 rue du
Portail Neuf, Menerbes, 04 90 72 37 53), Gérard and his son Vincent prepare just a few things each day for lunch and sometimes dinner...closing up “when there’s no more people.” It’s
perfect! Every day, père et fils make
a few savory tarts, a few sweet tarts, salad and soup; a terrifically
satisfying lunch with a glass of wine, dessert and coffee costs well under 20€.
I had the Roquefort/walnut tart; Corinne had the pissaladiere tart; we both had squash soup and salad and a
glass of red wine from nearby Domaine de
Jeanne. Best of all, Vincent pulled out his guitar and serenaded us after
lunch, starting with The House of the
Rising Sun, one of the very first songs I learned to play on piano. If Gérard’s name seems familiar, he became a bit of a celebrity in these parts
with the 2005 publication of Confessions of
a French Baker, a book written (with him and about him) by none other than Peter Mayle.
After
lunch we strolled over to the Maison
de la Truffe et du Vin, which combines a restaurant, party space, wine shop,
tasting room and bookstore....all designed to promote the truffles and wines of
the Luberon area (which includes three AOCs: Côtes
du Luberon, Côtes du Ventoux and Côteaux de Pierrevert). And yes, you
can buy truffles here! If you plan to eat, request a table on the terrace...the
view, the view, the view! I’m told they can also arrange truffle hunts for
those who want them. And if you love truffles, don’t miss the Petit
Marché à la Truffe de Ménerbes (truffle market) which happens in the village on December
28.
Next
stop: the hotel Bastide de Gordes,
which I hadn’t seen since their recent and very-major renovation. The big news
there is that they’ve just received the prestigious “Palace” hotel distinction
from Atout France, the French Agency for Tourism
Development; only 23 hotels in France have this higher-than-five-star rating for
exceptional
facilities, architectural heritage, personalized service, superb location and
outstanding design. (My friend Stella hosted her daughter's wedding here just after the renovation, in June 2015, and said the whole event was beautiful beyond words.) Our adorable
host was named Manon but since they didn’t have that name tag, she was wearing
one that said Julie instead. Works for me!
We capped the day with a
visit to another gorgeous hotel, the five-star Relais & Châteaux called Le Phebus,
in Joucas. There we were greeted by Anthony Mathieu, the 21-year-old year
old son of owner Xavier Mathieu, whose hotel dining room has one Michelin star.
Set to close for the season the next day, Le Phebus was completely full except
for one large lovely room, but seeing it—and the rest of the property--gave me
a perfect sense of this family’s refined sensibility. (I loved the helicopter
landing pad...and the indoor/outdoor kitchen, where summer cooking classes are
held. How great to learn some new French dishes and techniques...and then
settle in for your meal on the shaded poolside terrace!) Over coffee and petits fours, Anthony told us all about
their winter renovation plans, which include expanding
the restaurant, building a new indoor pool, adding a meeting room and putting
finishing touches on a smashing, 3400-square-foot, five-bedroom rental villa with butler service
and a private pool. All work will be complete before the hotel reopens in April. Note to Xavier: if and when you retire and hand
over the keys to your son, your beautiful hotel will be in very good hands
indeed! Anthony couldn’t have been warmer or more welcoming.
When we weren’t jumping out of the car to take photos— the Luberon’s
rolling hills and vineyards were magnificent in the autumn sunshine--Corinne filled me in on all
the local news and gossip...and pointed out all sorts of places that she loves,
such as the indoor/outdoor restaurant La Fleur de Sel
in Les Beaumettes, where Nathalie Sodavalle
does the cooking and her husband Frédéric runs the front. “Terrific food, very fresh and very
reasonably priced!” Corinne proclaimed. This would be a great lunch stop if you’re
biking the Veloroute
de Calavon, the 37 km path running east/west along the Luberon’s old train
tracks: a little trail leads from the bike path to the restaurant. Corinne tells me that each village along the path purchased the parcel of land on which it sits...just in case they ever want to
restart train service through the Luberon. Clever!
What usually happens on
days like this is that I run out of time about halfway through my to-do list....and
this was no exception. So Corinne and I scheduled
a second recon mission a few weeks later, when we visited two five-star Relais & Châteaux
hotels (the Domaine de Capelongue and La Coquillade), the fantastic Ochre
Conservatory outside Roussillon, the new hotel La Maison des Ocres in the village itself and the artist/designer Frederic
Medina, who will offer sketch classes to my clients next year. But I’ll
write about that day another time.
In
the meantime, Corinne and I are putting finishing touches on the tours I’ll be adding
to my site for 2017. Among other things, you’ll find a day devoted to ochre which will include a visit the
Ochre Conservatory, an outdoor painting class and a stroll on the Sentiers
des Ochre (Ochre Trail) to see the gorgeous red/orange cliffs for which
Roussillon is known. (A bit of advice: don’t wear white!) Another tour will
focus on antiques and artisans. Watch my site WhatToDoinProvence.com for more
info on these and other Luberon activities in the weeks to come!
Photo Credits: Pont Julien courtesy of ProvenceGuide.co.uk. Lower church in Bonnieux via Net-Provence.com. Corinne took the photos of Chez Auzet, the portrait of Anthony Mathieu, me at the Bastide de Gordes and the wine bottles. I took the rest...or swiped them from the Bastide de Gordes, Le Phebus or Clos de Buis websites.
Monday, November 28, 2016
If Van Gogh Had a Camera...
If you have a chance before December 23, pop into the two-floored Arles Gallery, where the owners Anne Eliayan and Françoise Galeron--both of them photographers--have organized an interesting show called “Les Photos de Van Gogh.” The exhibit is on the gallery's lower level, in a vaulted cave that dates to the 17th century.
The idea, Anne
says, was to imagine what might have happened if Vincent Van Gogh had a camera.
To realize it, she turned to 25 photographers and other artists, asking them
for images that either reference the Dutch painter directly or were inspired by
his life and work.
One photographer
placed himself in the exact spot in Arles where Van Gogh painted a particular
landscape; it looks remarkably the same today. A series of three black-and-whites
pays homage, in part, to Vincent’s older brother (who was stillborn and also
named Vincent) and to Vincent’s father, who--like his own father--was a pastor.
Two embroidered
pieces (a pillow and a textile wall hanging) were done by Casablanca-born Christine Millerin, who has her own
studio/boutique just across the street (#7 rue de la Liberte).
Anne has three
of her own photos in the show; I particularly liked her dreamy take on Van
Gogh’s famous “Starry Night.”
Also part of the
show are two large paintings by the Arles-based painter Ise Cheddadi, who used a technique
she calls pixelisme to create two
large portraits of Van Gogh, each composed of 600 or so tiny paintings. Your
eye sees the artist’s face clearly only when the piece is viewed from a
distance or through a camera lens. One of her Van Gogh portraits hangs in the
gallery window and you can see others on her website.
If you’re lucky
and Anne has time, she’ll take you through the show herself; she did that for
me and it added to my appreciation immensely. The work is varied, moving and
quite wonderful but it’s easy to miss some of the references if you’re not so
familiar with Van Gogh’s work. Some pieces are just pretty photos until you
hear the story behind them.
When I saw the
show in mid November, about half of the images were already sold. Most are priced
under 200€,
as Anne and her partner want their gallery and its artwork to be accessible to
all.
The “Photos de
Van Gogh” show comes down December 23. The gallery's next group show, called “Arles and Mythology,”
opens March 24, 2017. And on the main floor, there’s a whole gallery full of
interesting photos and posters to explore as well. The Arles Gallery is just off
the Place du Forum, at 8 rue de la
Liberté, +33 (0)6 59 35 57 51, arlesgallery.com. The hours
are Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm.
Where to eat before or after? If you’re looking for a nice, simple
lunch nearby, try the interesting open-faced tartine sandwiches (on Poilâne
bread) at Cuisine du Comptoir,
open all day just next door, at #10. The best-sellers are currently the poularde (chicken, capers, homemade
mayonnaise) and marius
(tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil, basil). For
just 15€, you can have the tartine of your choice, plus soup or salad, a glass of wine or 1/2
bottle of mineral water and a coffee. For more about the restaurant, read
my 2011 review here.
Cuisine du Comptoir is open for lunch every day except Sunday; open for dinner
every night except Sunday from April to December; and open for dinner on Friday
and Saturday only from January through March.
Another extremely popular
nearby restaurant is Le
Galoubet (18 Rue du Dr Fanton, 04 90 93 18 11), with its friendly staff, pretty
shaded terrace nice cooking and good prices.
And a bit further from the gallery (but still a five-minute walk max) is
Le
Gibolin (13 Rue Des Porcelet, 04 88 65 43 14), considered one of the top three
spots in Arles...and great for wine lovers as well.
Photos: Click on any photo to enlarge. (1) The gallery, with one of Ise Cheddadi's Van Gogh portraits in the window. (2) Gallery co-owner Anne Eliayan curated the show and is pictured with her take on Van Gogh, called "Starry Night." (3) "Les Sabots" by Celine Geneys. (4) "Tourment Creatif," a digital lithograph by Christophe Kay. (5) Another"Nuit étoilée," this one by gallery co-owner Francoise Galeron. (6) A "pixelisme" portrait of Van Gogh by Ise Cheddadi. This one is composed of 1008 little paintings, about 3.5 cm each. (7) "Arlésiennes" by Jurgen Grade. (8) Photo by Claude Sportis. The title translates as "Pine Needles as a Van Gogh Painting." (9) An embroidered wall hanging by Christine Millerin. (10) Photo of a sculpture by Arles-based artist Thibault Franc.
Photos: Click on any photo to enlarge. (1) The gallery, with one of Ise Cheddadi's Van Gogh portraits in the window. (2) Gallery co-owner Anne Eliayan curated the show and is pictured with her take on Van Gogh, called "Starry Night." (3) "Les Sabots" by Celine Geneys. (4) "Tourment Creatif," a digital lithograph by Christophe Kay. (5) Another"Nuit étoilée," this one by gallery co-owner Francoise Galeron. (6) A "pixelisme" portrait of Van Gogh by Ise Cheddadi. This one is composed of 1008 little paintings, about 3.5 cm each. (7) "Arlésiennes" by Jurgen Grade. (8) Photo by Claude Sportis. The title translates as "Pine Needles as a Van Gogh Painting." (9) An embroidered wall hanging by Christine Millerin. (10) Photo of a sculpture by Arles-based artist Thibault Franc.
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