Just Opened: Picasso and Kahlo at Carrières des Lumières

The Carrières des Lumières (Quarries of Light) is a magical space in a vast cave-like quarry at the base of the hilltop village of Les Baux de Provence. There in the cool darkness, 100 video projectors splash 2,000 still and moving images over an area of more than 75,000 square feet, onto the 45-foot-high walls and onto the stone floor, while 74 speakers provide the perfectly choreographed soundtrack. The sound-and-light show changes once a year and is one of the most-popular, most-visited sites in Provence. 

The 2026 show opened this week and it looks sure to be a huge hit, just like the Monet and Rousseau show was last year. As always, there are two separate ‘’immersive experiences’’ and they run on a continuous loop. This year the main show (35 minutes) is "Picasso, Art in Motion" and the shorter one (15 minutes) is "Frida Kahlo: At the Very Heart.’’

Pablo Picasso was, of course, one of the most influential artists of the 20^th century. In addition to his painting and drawings, the show displays the other techniques that the Spanish artist explored such as engraving, sculpture, collage, assemblages, folding and ceramics. It’s a journey through his entire palette, from the warm hues of his native Spain to the whirlwind of colors in his paintings of Parisian cabarets and balls to his legendary melancholic blues to the delicate pinks that precede the striking grays of his monumental Guernica.

From Celestina to Les Demoiselles d'Avignon and The Supplicant, you’ll discover the faces of the women who filled his life and inspired some of the major turning points in his work.

The Frida Kahlo projection, meanwhile, explores the intimacy and creative force of the legendary Mexican artist (1907-1954) ‘’through an explosion of colors, symbols and emotions.’’ The walls are transformed to reflect the rhythm of Frida's life: from her early works marked by physical suffering and the search for self to her most assertive paintings ‘’where the power of her identity and commitment bursts forth.’’

In just a few short minutes you’ll see the evolution of an artist who ‘’transformed pain into art, fragility into strength, and the intimate into the universal.’’

As in years past, there’s an accompanying soundtrack and the playlists are available via Spotify on the Carrières website. I’ve always felt that the soundtrack plays a huge part in the impact of the show…and people around here still talk about the brilliant pairing of Salvador Dali and Pink Floyd in 2020.

The program will be on view until January, 2027.

The Carrières des Lumières sits in the Val d’Enfer, a stone's throw Les Baux itself; you can easily walk between them but on foot you have a bit of a climb up to the village itself.  These quarries produced the white limestone used for the construction of the village of Les Baux, the Château des Baux and many buildings in surrounding villages including St. Remy. Aluminum ore bauxite was discovered here in 1821 by geologist Pierre Berthier, who named it after the village. In 1935, the use of more-modern materials led to the quarries' demise.  

Dramatic and otherworldly looking, the area has inspired artists of all sorts; it provided the setting for Dante’s Divine Comedy and Gounod created his opera Mireille here. Later, Cocteau came here to film The Testament of Orpheus.  A 16-minute film tracing Cocteau’s life can be seen in the Salle Cocteau, adjacent to the main space.

The Carrières du Val d’Enfer have been awarded Natural Monument status in France. 

The first transformation of the abandoned quarries began in 1976 with the development of a project using the huge rocky walls for sound and light performances.

Formerly known as the Cathedrale des Images, the venue closed in 2011 and re-opened (after a €2 million re-do) as the Carrières des Lumières the following year. Since then, it’s been managed by Culturespaces. Founded by Bruno Monnier in 1990, Culturespaces is the leading private operator/manager of monuments, museums and art centers in France. The Culturespaces Foundation, founded in 2009, fosters access to art and culture for children affected by illness, disability or poverty. One of France’s benchmark foundations, it’s known for initiatives that blend culture, education and solidarity.

Based on the wide popularity of the Carrières des Lumières, Culturespaces went on to launch a number of similar “digital art centers” including the Atelier des Lumières, Paris (2018), the Bunker des Lumières, Jeju (2018), the Bassins des Lumières and Bordeaux (2020). More recent openings include the Hall des Lumières (New York), the Fabrique des Lumières (Amsterdam) and the Théâtre des Lumières (Seoul). To see all the locations and their programing, click here.

Heads up to first-time visitors: it’s cool inside the quarry so you might want a sweater or light jacket. The stone floors are uneven so you might want a cane or walking stick as well. There are stone benches around the perimeter of the interior and you can stay as long as you like. As you exit, there’s a small but interesting shop selling books and other items pertaining to the history of Provence, Les Baux, the Carrières and the Val d’Infer.

The Cafe des Carrières is open every day except December 25, from 10 am daily, serving drinks, sandwiches and sweets. It closes at 5 pm, 6 pm or 6:30 pm depending on the season.

As in years past, you can just show up at the Carrières and buy a ticket. But to avoid long lines in season, they suggest you book online here.  You can also buy tickets in advance at the Carrières ticket office or at all FNAC stores.

Pricing for 2026 is:  €16.50 (adults), €15.50 seniors (65 and up), €14 students and free for journalists, jobseekers, the disabled and kids under 7. On the website you’ll also see family rates and combined-visit prices (for the Carrières, the Chateau des Baux and the Musée Yves Brayer), along with background, directions and much more. 

The Carrières is open seven days a week and last entry is one hour before closing. Hours are as follows: 

March: 9:30 am - 6 pm
April, May, June, Sept & Oct: 9:30 am - 7 pm 
July & Aug: 9 am - 7:30 pm
Nov, Dec, Jan: 10 am - 6 pm 

Carrières des Lumières 

Route de Maillane  
13520 Les Baux de Provence 
Tel: +33 (0)4  90 49 20 02
carrieres-lumieres.com

Photos: (1) Poster for the new show.  (2-6) Three Picasso and two Kahlo scenes from the show. Photos courtesy of Culturespaces. (7) The old bauxite quarry in daylight; the geologist who first discovered aluminum ore here in 1821 named it after the village. (8) One section of the vast space is lit beautifully when the Carrieres hosts private parties and other events. I took this photo at the launch party for the new show a few years ago. (9) One of my favorite photos of the village of Les Baux, taken by Philippe Clairo (@craignos).

Guest Post: One Great Day in Provence

Whenever I get together with my friends Keith and Val Van Sickle, we love to share French intel. Where've you been, what'd you do? Who'd you meet, where'd you eat? The Van Sickles split their time between Provence and Northern California, spending three months each year based in St.-Rémy. Because they do lots of exploring, I asked them to suggest ''One Great Day in Provence'' for you. They chose to focus on the Alpilles (''Little Alps''), our beloved home turf, named for the 25-km-long mini-mountain range where, to the north and south, you'll find villages such as St.-Rémy, Eygalieres, Les Baux, Maussane and others. Keith and Val are both retired (Val from consulting, Keith from finance) and they travel widely. Keith is the author of An Insider’s Guide to Provence, One Sip at a Time, and Are We French Yet? He also publishes the blog Life in Provence. So read on for Keith's guest post about One Great Day!

One of the many things that Val and I love about St-Rémy is that it sits at the foot of the Alpilles Mountains, a great place to hike and bike. 

The Alpilles aren’t particularly high, with the tallest peak about 1,600 feet, which means there are plenty of hikes that aren’t too strenuous. A great day for us is to hike in the Alpilles, enjoy a leisurely lunch at a favorite restaurant, and then shop for Provençal essentials like wine and olive oil.

Hiking in the Alpilles

One favorite hike starts from a parking lot called Parking de la Caume, at the top of the road between St-Rémy and Maussane-les-Alpilles. After parking, we head to the paved trail that begins at the back of the lot. Because Provence can get hot, we usually hike in the morning and carry plenty of water.

The trail is called the Randonée de la Caume and if you follow it all the way, it will take you up to the giant communication tower that you can see for miles around. This is a nice route, but instead of following it, we turn off onto a dirt road marked as the AL 115, about ¼ mile from the start. It can be found on a helpful hiking map we use to for this and other trails in the Alpilles.

We like this route because it is never crowded and the views are great. Sometimes we see the forest and sometimes sheer rock walls rising up next to the path. From a few spots we can see a long way to the south, to near the Mediterranean coast. The one thing we have to watch out for are bikers, because they can show up suddenly if they are riding fast.

We hike as far as we want and then turn around, and at this point we are usually getting hungry. If we’ve timed it right it’s lunch time, so we head to Maussane and one of our favorite restaurants, l’Oustaloun.

L’Oustaloun

This is a family-run hotel/restaurant that has been in business for decades. The couple that runs it is very friendly—“We love our clients,” they say—and the food is always good.

The chef has been awarded the title of Maître Restauranteur, a special honor that means everything is fresh and homemade. I can’t eat gluten and the chef knows exactly what is in each dish, so he is able to guide me to safe eating.

The cuisine is authentic Provençal and I love the timbale, an eggplant confit surrounded by a tomato and red pepper coulis. The menu changes with the seasons so the dishes always use fresh ingredients, many of which are sourced locally.

On a warm day we sit at the outdoor tables on the town’s lovely central square, and if it’s cool we enjoy the cozy dining room with its arched ceiling.

The Best Olive Oil

The area around Maussane is known for olive oil, and local producers have captured several world championships. It is said that oil from here was used to anoint France’s first Christian king, Clovis, in the year 496.

Our favorite place for olive oil is Moulin Castelas, just outside of Maussane. The staff speaks English—the owners once lived in the United States—and is very friendly. They let you taste anything you’d like and sometimes you can tour the olive mill itself. Tables are arranged outside if you’d like to taste there, or just rest your feet for a few minutes.

One of Castelas’ specialties is their wide range of flavored oils, where they add ingredients like citrus, rosemary, and basil. Unlike many producers that just add flavorings to their oils, Castelas macerates their olives together with the other ingredient—thyme, for example—and then filters it at the end. The results are great for salad dressings, to put on fish, or whatever strikes your fancy. We stock up every time we arrive in Provence.

Something for the Cellar

After olive oil, another essential is wine, and one of our favorite caves is Mas Sainte Berthe, which sits in the shadow of Les Baux-de-Provence’s fortress.

Sainte Berthe is known for its rosés, but all its wines are excellent. You can try them in their friendly, English-speaking tasting room, then buy what you like. Besides wine in bottles, they also sell it in 5 or 10 liter “bag in box.” These boxed wines are quite good and a great bargain, especially if you will be entertaining a group.

Back Home

We are now tired, well fed, and well stocked. It’s a routine we often follow when we are newly arrived in St-Rémy. But it’s only the beginning, as many more hikes and meals await. And you never know when you’ll need more olive oil or another bottle of wine! 

Photos:

(1) Keith, Val and their sweet dog Mica at the Aéro-Club De Saint-Rémy, the Alpilles behind them. (2) A glorious coquelicot (poppy) field with the Alpilles in the background; photo by Barbara Tyler. (3, 4) Hiking photos by Keith. (5) L'Oustaloun, in Maussane; photo courtesy of the restaurant. (6) Timbale and (7) Moulin Castelas, photos by Keith. (8, 9) The vineyard and tasting room at Mas Sainte Berthe.