Showing posts with label COTE D'AZUR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label COTE D'AZUR. Show all posts

Monday, October 27, 2025

Thanksgiving in Provence 2025


Because I live to please you, once again I've rounded up a great selection of American Thanksgiving celebrations here in the South of France. Who attends these gala soirées? Local expats of course, but also hungry French folks and other Europeans, travelers, house guests...whomever! 

Over the years, many of my French friends have told me they love the idea of celebrating this American holiday...to meet new people, to sample unusual foods, to learn the history and traditions. At a friend's Thanksgiving in Provence a few years back, one French guest told me he loved how the various dishes were served all at once—family style--rather than in courses. Another said he was looking forward to his first taste of cranberry sauce, which he called red fruits jam

While the literal translation of Thanksgiving is Action de Grâce, most French people just call it Thanksgiving...except for my friend Philippe who refers to it as Merci Donnant, which he says "means absolutely nothing at all." Over the years, we’ve shared many wonderful Thanksgivings together at various friends’ houses. “It’s like having a second Xmas in the same year,” Philippe says. “But I miss that I never got to see the big family argument part you see in many movies!” 

As of this writing, all of the celebrations below have space available except one that's wait list only. But book soon because most have limited capacity and they'll all fill up. I've also included a source for Thanksgiving takeaway (at all three Biocoop - La Coumpagnie stores in Aix, with an eat-in option at one of them).  If you know of any that aren't listed here, please email me (whattodoinprovence@gmail.com) so I can share the info. 

If you're looking to celebrate Thanksgiving in a Paris restaurant, have a look at the listings here and here. You could also try the American University Clubs of France, the American Church of Paris and the American Club of Paris...they've all hosted events in the past. And for a Thanksgiving cooking class in Paris click here but hurry...there's only two spots left. 

Finally, a big American hug and thank you from me to you: for reading and supporting my blog...for sharing it with friends...for commenting on the stories you particularly enjoy. I wish you all the most joyous and delicious Merci Donnant, wherever you plan to spend it!  

La Table des Amis at La Galine in St. Remy

Over the years I've been to many fantastic Thanksgiving celebrations in Provence but last year, none of my friends wanted to cook. So we convinced Bastien Maltagliati, owner of the Bistrot de Saint Remy, to host a Thanksgiving celebration at the restaurant. My friends at the culinary-and-travel club La Table des Amis offered to handle all the booking through their website, which made things super easy. The event was a huge success--I think 72 people came--and the food was super, thanks to chef Richard Smache and his crew. 

This year, however, Bastien will be closed during that period, to give his staff a break before the holiday rush. So the 2025 St. Remy Thanksgiving celebration will take place at another one of our favorite restaurants, the Bistrot de La Galine...just east of the village on the D99. David Carpita, one of the founders of La Table des Amis, has done the menu planning with La Galine's owners Ingrid and Marc Devaux...and once again the group will handle reservations as well. The lunch is Thursday Nov. 27, from 12:30 to 3:30. It's open to anyone who wants to join in--singles, couples, families, kids--and all nationalities are welcome. Seating will be at communal tables of 10 to 14 each, the meal will be served family style and 70 people are expected. It's 60€ (members), 65€ (non members) and half price for kids under 12. For more details or to book, click here

La Table des Amis de Provence is a non-profit association that ''connects wine and food lovers to a table of friends.'' Founded in 2022, they now have close to 200 members and offer events such as a lunches on fête days (such as Transhumance), farm-to-table visits, “safaris” to Italy and Spain and more. Membership is 15€ for singles and 25€ for couples. To join, click here.

Biocoop - La Coumpagnie in Aix

This will be the 10th year that Biocoop - La Coumpagnie in Aix has been offering homemade organic Thanksgiving meals, made from owner Rick Harrison’s family recipes. This year they'll offer an eat-in option for lunch on Thursday Nov. 27 at their Pioline (840 ave du Camp de Menthe) and Puyricard/Célony (20 chemin des Gervais) locations, as well as take out from all three of their service delis, including their deli location near the center of Aix (4 rue Pierre de Coubertin). 

The delivery and take-away service has been a huge success for people who want to celebrate at home...but not cook. ''Our French, English and American clientele really love it and we have a very loyal clientele who comes back year after year," Rick tells me. ''Anyone who wants a home-cooked holiday meal without the fuss!” As in year’s past, the menu (turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, green bean casserole, pumpkin pie, pecan pie and classic cheesecake) will be “100% organic, 0% GMOs and 100% homemade from American family recipes.” To come for lunch, no reservations are needed...just show up. For takeaway or delivery, please order with Rick before Monday Nov. 24 at 5 pm: +33 (0)6 81 34 85 74, rick@biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr

Le Saint Hubert in the Luberon

The lovely Le Saint Hubert in Saint Saturnin les Apt will serve their annual Thanksgiving long table dinner for 48€ per person on Thursday Nov. 27. They welcome guests to arrive around 7 pm for a cocktail and the dinner begins at 7:30 pm. To reserve, please call ‪+33 4 90 75 42 02‬.

Thanksgiving at Les Halles in Avignon 

Once again, American chef Jon Chiri will offer a holiday plat du jour lunch on Thanksgiving Day, at his cafe and cooking school in the Les Halles Market in Avignon. Lunch is 26€ without pumpkin pie or 32€ with. Jon will be serving brined, slow-cooked turkey leg roulade with all the accompaniments. A mug of mulled wine is included and other wines will be available. For info or to book: +33 6 46 89 85 33, contact@jonathanchiri.com. 

American Club of the Riviera in Nice

This year, the American Club of the Riviera will hold their Annual Thanksgiving Day Luncheon at the iconic Hôtel Negresco. They'll start with a Champagne reception at noon followed by a traditional Thanksgiving lunch at 12:30 pm. Pricing and all other details are here. Non-members who join the ACR now will get members pricing for events for the rest of 2025 and all of 2026.

MonacoUSA in Monte Carlo

MonacoUSA will host their annual Thanksgiving Dinner at Marius Restaurant and Bar. (MonacoUSA is a social and business network for Americans, Monegasques and other English-speaking members of the international community.) Festivities kick off at 6:30 with a happy hour cash bar, and dinner will be served at 7:30. It's €100 for members, €120 for non-members and all the details are here. For more info: monacousa.mc@gmail.com.

Adrian Leeds Group in Nice

In Nice, the Adrian Leeds Group is having their third annual Thanksgiving at the restaurant Carre D'or. It's currently sold out (at 90 people) but there is a wait list...and all the info is here. To be put on the wait list, use the use the “Contact Us” button on the website.

Just Added: Democrats Abroad--Avignon Chapter Lunch in Cavaillon

Once again the DA-Avignon Chapter will gather for Thanksgiving and all are welcome. The family style event is Saturday Nov. 29 from 1 pm to 5 pm in Cavaillon. The catered turkey will be supplemented by traditional potluck favorites. Everyone is asked to contribute something such as a starter, side, dessert or drink. There are always leftovers so doggie bags will be provided! Seating is limited so please confirm ASAP with the number of guests and your food or drink contributions. Suggestions include a pasta dish, cheeses, fish, sausages or other meats, potatoes, yams, turnips, your favorite stuffing, salad, desserts/pies, etc. Once you reserve, you'll be sent the address and contact info of the host, who'll follow up with you to organize your food contribution. To reserve: dennis.shibut@gmail.com


Above: The much-loved, often-parodied painting is Norman Rockwell's "Freedom from Want" from 1942. Everyone in it was a Rockwell family member or friend; they were photographed individually and painted into the scene. Learn more about the painting and artist here



Sunday, September 14, 2025

Journées du Patrimoine is Sept 20 & 21




It's that time again: The 42nd annual Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) takes place next weekend, September 20 and 21, in cities and villages all over France. The program was launched by the French Ministry of Culture in 1984 and has since spread all over Europe; this year 50 countries are expected to take part. 

Officially it's called European Heritage Days or JEP (for Journées Européennes du Patrimoine) but everyone just calls it Patrimoine.

Roughly 20,000 sites or so across France are expected to participate in 2025. This is one the biggest events in the country and one of my favorite weekends of the year.

The idea is that a wide range of monuments, religious sites, estates, gardens, museums, workshops, galleries, ateliers, factories and more are open for special visits, including many that are normally closed to the public. Most sites are offering free entry and will have a guide on hand; some host special tours and events. Some of these events may require you to sign up in advance, for others you just show up. 

Throughout the weekend, some activities happen at specific times, on one day of the weekend on both. You can expect tours to be in French but a translator is sometimes provided or the guide may speak some English. Often someone in the group will offer to translate.

Some cities and villages will have events on Friday Sept 19 as well. For example, there's a special nighttime double-decker bus tour in Marseille from 7 to 9 pm on Friday night, with an exceptional opening of the Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica. 

Every year, Patrimoine has a loose theme. This year it's ''Architectural Heritage,'' highlighting the richness and diversity of architecture across France.

Ok, allons-y! What to see and do?

The main Journées du Patrimoine website is here and the department-by-department listings are here. But keep checking back because details continue to roll in as the weekend draws closer. Local tourist offices have Patrimoine info on their websites and over the years I've found that their info tends to be more comprehensive and up-to-date than the nationwide Patrimoine website. 

Every year, my village (St. Remy) publishes its own terrific map/guide to all its Patrimoine sites and activities. To see it, click here. This year, in addition to tours and visits, there's a 20 km bike ride on Saturday ''with five sensory stops to awaken the senses and rediscover historic riches.'' The ride is open to all but please reserve here or here. There's also live jazz around town both Saturday and Sunday. You can grab a printedcopy of the schedule and map at the St. Remy Tourist Office and elsewhere around town. And the Mairie of St. Remy has published additional info on some specific visits here.

Moving on, here are the programs for Avignon, Vaison-la-RomaineApt, CarpentrasAix en ProvenceArles, NimesMarseille, Toulon, CannesNice and Monaco.

The department of the Vaucluse, which includes the lovely Luberon, has published their Patrimoine intel here. And you find lots of Luberon info here.  

Don't forget about our hundreds of smaller, lesser-known villages which sometimes offer fantastic tours and visits as well. A lot of villages have published their Patrimoine schedules here.

Then there are listings for the six departments of PACA (Provence Alpes Cote d'Azur): Alpes-de-Haute-ProvenceAlpes-MaritimesBouches du Rhone, the Hautes-Alpes and the Var. For the Vaucluse, try here and here. And here's the Gard (which is not technically in Provence but never mind…we love the Gard anyway!). 

Up in Paris, there are more than 1,500 sites participating this year. See a great listing of events and highlights here.

As the Patrimoine weekend gets closer, organizers will continue to update the clickable nationwide map, which you can see here. It's all a bit clunky but you're smart and you'll figure it out! Vive le Patrimoine de France! 

Photos: Get out there and explore! (1 - 4) A few of the thousands of sites holding Patrimoine events include the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde in Marseille, the Camargo Foundation in Cassis, the Glanum architectural site in St. Remy and Le Jas de Bouffan, the Cezanne family home in Aix, shown here as painted by the artist. (5) Discover 250 varieties of bamboo (along with rare trees and shrubs) in the 4-hectare garden called Bambous en Provence, in Eyragues. Visits are discounted for JEP but not free. (6) To see what's being offered at the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh in Arles, click here.  (7) LUMA Arles will participate too, of course...info is here(8) Chateau de Fonscolombe (in Le Puy-Saint- Reparade, near Aix) dates to 1730 and is now a five-star hotel. They're offering guided visits, by reservation. (9) The Chocolaterie de Banon has free guided tours with tasting, reservations required. (10) Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the Cap Ferrat has posted their JEP offerings here. (11) Free guided tours of Les Docks Village in Marseille, taking visitors from its construction in 1856 to the present, will be available Sat and Sun. For info click here.  (12) For historical tours of the Marseille St. Charles Station, click here. (13) The Jewish Cemetery in St. Remy will be open Sat (10 to 11 am) and Sun (3 to 4 pm), with a local historian present. (13) Further on up the same road, you'll find the Lac Peïroou, a gorgeous reservoir originally dammed by the Romans to provide water to the town of Glanum below. Meet at Les Antiques at 10 am for a hike up to the lake with narration by a local historian. (14) The Maison Carrée in Nimes. (15) Rides on the TER Zou train are free all weekend during JEP...but you have to buy a pass...do that hereThere's also a special narrated round-trip (Sat only), leaving Gap at 10:59 am, arriving Briancon at 12:16. For the return, leave Briancon at 1:19 pm and arrive Gap at 2:41. Boarding at intermediate stations permitted. (16) In Paris, take a free guided tour (Sat or Sun) of the historic Hotel du Nord, the legendary Right Bank brasserie created in 1913. (17) The Museum of the History of Medicine in the 6th has free entry and tours all weekend; see how medicine and surgery have evolved over the centuries. More info here (18) Visits to the Dior Gallery in Paris are discounted for JEP but must be reserved in advance. (19) One of the many, many Paris tours during JEP is a free guided architecture tour of the Marais, by reservation. (20) This year's Patrimoine poster.

Thursday, March 28, 2024

Michelin's 2024 Provence Restaurant Stars


For chefs and foodies alike, it's an exciting harbinger of spring: the announcement each year of the new Michelin-star ratings in the latest edition of the Guide Rouge for France. With few exceptions, Michelin has been rating French restaurants since the year 1900. (The history of Michelin restaurant ratings is here.) 

The 2024 guide has just come out and once again, because I live to please you, I've compiled a list of all the starred restaurants across Provence, the Côte d'Azur and Monaco. There are six departments in the region known as PACA (Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur) and you'll find all the Michelin-starred restaurants in PACA in my list below, organized by department and village. Each restaurant appears with its current star rating and a clickable link. Restaurants new to the starred list are designated "New 2024." 

The big news this year is the naming of two new three-star restaurants in France...one of them in Provence...bringing the total number of three stars in France to 30. Congrats to chef Fabien Ferré of La Table du Castellet in the Hotel du Castellet (a Relaix & Châteaux property in Le Castellet, in the Var) for attaining this stellar accolade...considered by many to be the pinnacle in the world of French gastronomy. 

At age 35, Ferré is the youngest three-star chef in France. "Age doesn't matter," he told Agence France-Presse last week at the Michelin awards ceremony in the city of Tours. "Life is made of failures. I've had them and yet I'm here being crowned...you have to fight." 

The other new three-star is chef Jérôme Banctel of Le Gabriel at La Réserve in Paris.

Eight restaurants are new to the two-star list this year. And 52 restaurants across France have just been awarded their first star, illustrating "a rising new generation of chefs under 40," Michelin notes. 

There are now 639 starred restaurants in France. In addition to the 30 three stars, there are 75 with two stars and 534 with one.

A couple years ago, Michelin unveiled a new "Green Star" for restaurants devoted to sustainability, recognizing them for their use of local foods and practices that preserve natural resources, protect ecological diversity and reduce waste. There are nine new Green Stars across France this year; you'll find all the Green Stars in PACA designated in green below. 

As usual, Michelin has also given some un-starred restaurants its "Bib Gourmand" designation, meaning good food at low prices...often considered a precursor to a first star. This year there are 37 Bib Gourmand restaurants in PACA and you can see them all here

For more about the winners, their restaurants and the 2024 Guide Rouge, click here

And if you're looking for this list later,you'll find it by clicking the tab up above, the one that says MICHELIN RESTAURANTS. It'll be there for the next year, until the 2025 ratings come out. So read on and Bon App!

   

ALPES DE HAUTE PROVENCE (DEPT. 04) 

Château Arnoux -- La Bonne Étape *

Mane -- Le Feuillée - Le Couvent des Minimes * NEW 2024

Manosque – Restaurant Pierre Grein *

Moustiers Sainte Marie -- La Bastide de Moustiers *


LES HAUTES ALPES (05)

Saint Crépin -- Les Tables de Gaspard *


ALPES MARITIMES (06)

Antibes -- Le Figuier de Saint Esprit *

Antibes --  Louroc *

Antibes (Cap d'Antibes) -- Les Pêcheurs *

Beaulieu sur Mer -- Le Restaurant des Rois *

Biot -- Les Terraillers *

Le Cannet (Cannes) -- Villa Archange **

La Colle sur Loup -- Alain Llorca *

Èze -- Château de la Chèvre d'Or **

Èze – Château Eza *

Èze Bord de Mer -- La Table de Patrick Raingeard *

Juan les Pins -- La Passagère *

Mandelieu-la-Napoule (06) – Bessem * NEW 2024

Menton -- Mirazur ***

Nice -- Chantecler *

Nice -- L'Aromate *

Nice -- Flaveur ** 

Nice -- Jan *

Nice --  Les Agitateurs *

Nice (06) -- ONICE * NEW 2024

Nice – Pure & V  *  

Nice (06) -- Racines - Bruno Cirino * NEW 2024

Roquebrune Cap Martin -  Ceto at the Maybourne Riviera*

Saint Jean Cap Ferrat -- Le Cap at the Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat *

Théoule sur Mer – L'Or Bleu at Hotel Tiara Yaktsa *

Vence -- Le Saint Martin *

Villeneuve Loubet  La Flibuste-Martin's *


BOUCHES DU RHONE (13) 

Aix en Provence -- Pierre Reboul at the Hôtel Château de la Pioline * 

Aix en Provence (Le Tholonet) -- Le Saint Estève *

Aix en Provence -- Le Château de Gaude *

Aix en Pvce/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- Helene Darroze at Villa Lacoste  *

Aix en Provence/Le Puy Ste Reparade -- La Table de l'Orangerie - Château de Fonscolombe  * NEW 2024

Arles -- La Chassagnette  *

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Oustau de Baumanière ***  

Les Baux de Provence -- L'Aupiho at Domaine de  Manville * 

Cabriès  -- La Bastide Bourrelly - Mathias Dandine * NEW 2024

Cassis -- La Villa Madie ***

La Ciotat -- Couleurs de Shimatani *

Eygalières -Maison Hache *

Gemenos  La Magdeleine *

La Ciotat (Le Liouquet) - LaTable de Nans at L'Auberge le Revestel *

Marseille -- Le Petit Nice ***

Marseille -- AM par Alexandre Mazzia ***

Marseille -- Saisons  *

Marseille -- L'Epuisette *

Marseille -- Signature *

Marseille -- Une Table au Sud *

Saint Cannat – Le Mas Bottero *

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Fanny Rey at L'Auberge de Saint Rémy * 

Saint Rémy de Provence -- Restaurant De Tourrel *

Salon de Provence -- Villa Salone *

Ventabren -- La Table de Ventabren *


LE VAR (83)

Les Arcs sur Agens -- Le Relais des Moines *

La Cadière d'Azur -- Hostellerie Bérard *

Le Castellet – La Table du Castellet *** -- NEW 2024

La Croix Valmer -- La Palmeraie at Château de Valmer * 

Le Lavandou – L’arbre au Soleil *

Lorgues -- Bruno *

Lorgues -- Le Jardin de Berne  at Hôtel Château de Berne * 

Ramatuelle -- La Voile at the Hôtel La Réserve Ramatuelle **

Saint Raphaël -- Recif at Hotel Les Roches Rouges *

Saint Tropez -- La Vague d'Or at Cheval Blanc***

Saint Tropez -- La Terrasse at Cheval Blanc * -- NEW 2024

Saint Tropez -- Colette *

Tourettes -- La Faventia *

 

VAUCLUSE (84)  

Ansouis -- La Closerie *

Avignon -- La Mirande *  

Avignon – La Vieille Fontaine at Hotel de L’Europe *

Avignon -- Pollen *

Avignon/ Villeneuve -- Le Prieure -- NEW 2024

Avignon/ Pujaut -- Entre Vigne et Garrigue *

Avignon / Collias -- Le Château de Collias * -- NEW 2024

Bonnieux -- La Bastide de Capelongue  *

Bonnieux -- Le Mas des Eydins ** -- NEW 2024

Cadenet -- Le Goût du Bonheur  * NEW 2024

Châteauneuf du Pape -- La Mère Germaine *

Cucuron -- La Petite Maison de Cucuron *

Gigondas --L'Oustalet *

Gordes (Joucas) -- Hostellerie le Phébus *

Lauris (84) -- Le Champ des Lunes * - NEW 2024

L'Isle sur la Sorgue -- Le Vivier *


MONACO

Le Louis XV (Alain Ducasse) ***

Pavyllon Monte Carlo at the Hotel Hermitage *

Le Blue Bay at the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel **

Yoshi at the Metropole Hotel (Joel Robuchon) *

Le Grill at Hotel de Paris *

La Table d’Antonio Salvatore au Rampoldi *

Les Ambassadeurs Hotel Le Métropole  ** -- NEW 2024