Painting Holidays in Provence 2020

Many of my readers and travel-planning clients ask about painting workshops in Provence...and I've found some wonderful instructors happy to give half- and full-day lessons. (See some here.) But if you'd like something more comprehensive, you might consider a trip devoted mostly or entirely to painting. (Sounds like heaven, no?) Most of these painting holidays last about a week but some are as short as three nights; lodging ranges from rustic to highly refined. They happen all over the South of France, in spring, summer and fall. So once again I've gathered a selection for you, chosen because they're either led by painters I know and admire, or are recommended by people I trust, or they look really promising online. I've also included a few in the Languedoc (or Occitanie, as it’s now called).

For those of you who’ve never painted or haven’t painted in years...or who’ve never traveled with a group of strangers...or are nervous about spending the money...or nervous about whatever...here’s a quick anecdote.

My first trip to Provence was to take a two-week photography workshop here, in 1997. Not only was it a fantastic experience but it led to a total life change...one that I had no idea I was looking for. Over the course of the following year or so, I quit my long-time job as an editor in New York, ended a long-term relationship (he had it coming anyway), started a freelance writing career, sublet my NYC apartment, rented a house in St. Remy and took off. I spoke no French, had never dreamed of living in France and knew just a couple people here, just barely. It was meant to be an escapade, a little break from real life, but very quickly I realized it was the smartest stupid thing I’ve ever done. Twenty years on, I’m happier here than ever...and it would never have happened had I not grabbed the last spot in that workshop way back when. So carpe diem! Life is short, you never know and you totally deserve this!

For questions about any of the workshops below, please contact the organizer or instructor directly. And definitely book soon...the best ones fill up quickly. If you’re leading a painting holiday in Provence or have one to recommend that’s not listed here, drop me an email: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com.

Here’s this year’s list...

* British artist Julian Merrow-Smith has lived and worked in Provence for more 20 years. I think his work is exquisite and so do the thousands of people who follow his "Postcard from Provence" daily painting project. In 2020, he'll be offering six painting getaways with his wife Ruth Phillips, a writer and musician...but space is limited and some are already full. Workshops are available in the May poppy season, July for the lavender fields and in September and October when many think Provence is at its best. All materials and supplies are included.  The group stays in a lovely 14^th-century manor house in the countryside at the foot of Mont Ventoux.  Prices range from $2190 (for simple shared accommodation) to $4050 for deluxe master bedrooms, double occupancy; the single supplement is $500. Evening meals are accompanied by fine Côtes du Rhône wines and all meals are prepared by an award-winning Irish chef.  “Apart from delicious food and wine there are no frills to this workshop," Julian says. "We usually visit one of the local markets; otherwise the week is all about painting—talking, living and breathing it together. Our aim, above all, is to give you the experience of living the painter's life in the south of France." shiftinglight.com,  julian@shiftinglight.com. 

* The watercolor artist Tessa Baker, originally from London, is one of the most popular instructors in Provence, where she's lived full time since 1985. Tessa currently has space on the following trips: Provence in Spring (April 18-25); Venasque, Roussillon and Les Baux (June 20 -27, Sept 5-12, Sept 19-26) and Seville, Spain (Oct 10-17). "Painting is a joyful moment in time so I encourage students enjoy, laugh, have fun, create," she says. "It seems to work very well!" Provence guests stay in a 17th-century country manor--between St. Didier and Venasque--that’s been in the same family for 10 generations, set in the middle of vineyards, olive groves and cherry orchards, with Mont Ventoux in the distance. “It’s a perfect villa for a painting trip,” Tessa says. Day trips during the “Venasque, Roussillon...” class visit the Carrieres des Lumieres in Les Baux, the ochre cliffs of Roussillon (with a lesson at an old ochre-processing plant), paint in olive groves, and visit to local villages and markets. For the “Provence in Spring” trip guests stay in Lorgues, visiting the Gorges de Verdon, the nearby pottery village of Moustier Saint Maries, the medieval village of Tourtour and a modern-art sculpture park. Everyone loves the carriage ride with a huge cart horse named Volcon, only one of six in France. Meals are splendid picnics or are served at home, in the shade of Linden trees. The workshop chef is known for healthful, seasonal Mediterranean meals.  paintprovencewithtess.com, tessabakerart@gmail.com.

* The ArtisTTable retreat in May is already sold out but they’re offering a second Provence painting trip October 4 to 11. You'll visit and paint the sites around Arles that so inspired Vincent Van Gogh...and the sites around Aix and near Mont Sainte-Victoire that captivated Paul Cézanne for years. Your hosts will be Royce Deans and Tali Farchi of ArtisTTable Art Retreats; this is their fifth painting workshop in the area.  Along the way you'll hear fascinating tales from the lives of Van Gogh and Cézanne, while getting encouragement and instruction. "This trip will take your plein-air painting experience to a whole new level," the instructors say.  Cost: $2100 pp single, or $1950 pp if you register before April 30. artisttableonline.com, info@artisttableonline.com.

* The Atelier Provence & Barcelona Art Tour 2020 (June 27-July 8) combines a 7-day painting workshop in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence with a 4-day art-history tour in Barcelona. It is a great opportunity to paint in plein-air (lavender fields, ochre cliffs, Mont St. Victoire, etc.), to learn art history and art theory, to visit Barcelona’s fabulous architecture and art museums; and to enjoy famous Provencal and Catalan cuisine and wines.  Visit Cézanne’s studio, Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, the Picasso and the Miró Museums and more. The tour is sponsored by Walk The Arts, which has been hosting workshops in Italy, France, Spain and South America since 1997. Price: $2880 includes art instruction, 11-night double accommodation (7 in Provence, 4 in Barcelona), most meals, all ground transport including high-speed train Avignon to Barcelona and entry to all museums and sites. walkthearts.com, info@walkthearts.com.

* Fiona and Jean-Louis Diaz are an Australian-French couple, based in the historical village of Jouques, just 30 minutes north of Aix. They run Artelier Provence--a fine-art gallery and studio--offering one-day drawing and painting workshops as well as four-day retreats. Retreats include five nights lodging so you have time to experience village life in Provence. Lessons take place in both village and rural settings, in and around Jouques. Jean-Louis is an accomplished artist whose practice in Provence enables him to extend his passion for color and luminosity while exploring his passion for encaustic medium. This summer they’ll host two retreats. The first, Drawing and Painting, is June 16 to 19. The second, Painting with Oil Encaustic, is June 23 to 26. Other dates may also be available; see their site and inquire.  artelierprovence.com, artelierprovence@gmail.com.

  

* Jill Steenhuis is an Atlanta-born visual artist who has lived in Aix since 1980. She earned her BFA at Sweet Briar College and, following graduation, enrolled in The Leo Marchutz School of Painting and Drawing in Aix, which follows in the tradition of Cézanne. Jill works directly from nature, en plein-air. In addition to leading Cezanne and Van Gogh walking tours for American museums and art lovers, Jill offers week-long oil painting workshops in the Provencal countryside for all ability levels. Workshops are designed for both confirmed painters and beginners, focusing on experiencing nature through the senses and encouraging each student to "bring out his own inner poetry.” 2020 dates are May 22-30,  June 19-27 and Sept 11-19. Price: $4,900 double or triple; $5,250 single. This year Jill will also lead a number of two-day workshops while  on tour in the US. artinprovence.com, jillsteenhuis@gmail.com. 

* Workshops in France is running six painting trips in Provence in 2020, staying in three château-based locations. Retreats are uninstructed; workshops  have artist/instructors. Retreats (open to all media and levels) combine artistic immersion with daily painting sessions in private vineyards, small fishing ports, charming villages, markets, and on the Van Gogh trail in St Rémy. Click here for details. A 10-day retreat (June 24-July 4), in the Luberon near Aix, is designed for those who want to paint during lavender season; another  7-day retreat follows here July 12-18. Then there are four 10-day workshops with master instructors, in early May, June, and September.  Americans in Paris Paint Provence (May 6-15) will be hosted by five leading artists; everyone stays at Moulin de la Roque, an historic estate between St. Rémy and Avignon, with a mill, river and beautiful grounds. Guests learn from each artist, focusing on landscapes, figures, portrait painting, composition and more.  Later in May (May 24-June 2), Susan Lyon will teach portraits and figure painting at the same location, joined by painter Scott Burdick. A workshop with Rose Frantzen is Sept 16-25. Finally, Joseph Zbukvic, the Australian watercolorist, will host a workshop at another château near Avignon (Sept. 2-11).  Non-painting partners will find plenty to do and are welcome in all workshops and retreats. Day students and drop-ins are welcome, pending availability.  workshopsinfrance.com, julie@workshopsinfrance.com.

In the Languedoc/Occitanie

*At their Academy Studios Abroad, Tod Ramos and Kate Lovegrove lead workshops in a beautiful village in the Gard, not far from the Camargue, using their grand village house as home base. Offerings for 2020 include: * Tour de Horse (May 18-29), a master class on the fundamental anatomy of the horse and the principles of its movement and form. * The Lifesaver Course (June 21-July 4): drawing and painting the model from life, in movement and repose, for both nude and traditional portraiture. * Portrait Painting with Models (July 20-31): positioning and composition; background and lighting; engaging the sitter; drawing in different media and painting oils.  As with all the courses, color and pigment theory, preparation of drawing and painting media are included. * Generation Art (Aug 20-24) is a five-day holiday course for kids ages 6 to 14 and their parents. * Zen and the Art of Landscape Painting, with Hatha Yoga (Aug 31-Sept 11): paint and draw en plein air with tutoring in both topographical and natural landscapes; the course may also include interior painting and still life. Plus, there's yoga in the morning and evening.  academystudiosabroad.com, contact@academystudiosabroad.com.

* Painting in France is hosted by English artist Simon Roberts and his South African wife Monica. This year there’s a new flexible mix of 3, 5 and 8 day all-inclusive painting holidays, in May/June and September/October. Prices start $1285 pp,sharing a twin or double. Simon guides you through sketching and watercolor techniques in a variety of locations, rom Mediterranean lagoons and ports to ancient villages and vineyards. Groups are seven students max so there’s plenty of personal attention. Beginners are welcome and all equipment and materials are supplied. When you’re not being wined and dined in local restaurants, Monica, an excellent cook, prepares chic picnics among the vines and delicious meals from local suppliers in the couple's courtyard garden. painting-in-france.com, simon@painting-in-france.com.

* Sketching Holidays in southern France with Annette Morris take place in a variety of locations, from 3 to 7 nights. Ideal for single travelers, these short breaks are great if you’re new to sketching, or a more experienced watercolorist looking to loosen up your style. Annette is British but has lived and worked in France for 12 years; she's completely dedicated to helping her students discover French life like a local, while helping you learn to capture the essence of it in your sketchbook day to day. Workshops may include cooking, wine-tasting and private cruises on the Canal du Midi; special dates can be arranged for groups if you're traveling with friends. "My short-stay holidays take place in carefully selected B&Bs, private luxury apartments or château with private pools," Annette says. "Your holiday sketchbook will contain wonderful memories to treasure forever."  Amsketching.com, annette@sketchingfrance.com.

* Sketching for Foodies is hosted by Anne de Ravel, a food writer, cookbook author and former producer at Food Network in New York.  Through her company Saveur Languedoc, Anne (a native Languedocienne!) leads food-and-wine tours of this lovely region located to the south and west of Provence. The Languedoc is know for lush vineyards, richly historic cities, beautiful Mediterranean beaches, stunning mountain trails and, of course, the world-famous Canal du Midi. Anne returned from the US, to live here full time, in 2007.  Sketching for Foodies,  a 4-night holiday, adds joyful sketching sessions to Anne's popular mix of cooking classes, food and wine touring, tastings and more. Sketching is led by Annette Morris (see just above), while Anne takes care of the rest.  From your charming B&B in Quarante, you'll travel through some of the most-picturesque places and discover the area with an insider. You'll meet artisan producers and sample rustic traditional foods; you’ll lunch in restaurants loved by locals. And along the way, you'll become a skillful sketcher. Dates: June 14-18, October 7-11.  Price: From 605€ pp in a double. For info: click here or here or email to: deravelanne@gmail.com.

Photos: (1) Feeling the lavender love on a painting holiday with Workshops in France. (2) Yep, that's a real horse in the studio for an Academy Studios Abroad workshop. Meet him yourself in this year's Tour de Horse workshop in May.  (3, 4)  Two paintings by Julian Merrow-Smith: "November Roses" and "Clementines in a Blue Bowl." (5, 6) Julian's students stay in a Provençal manor house on 180 acres of vines and woodland at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Julian calls the location "an ideal place to relax and draw on your creative energy." (7-9) By artist Jill Steenhuis: "Platane Trees at Chateau des Alpilles." Jill lives in Aix and will teach three painting workshops this year. Jill's painting "Activity in the Port of Cassis." (10) Tessa Baker will host a number of workshops this year where students visit and paint the striking ochre cliffs in Roussillon. (11, 12) Two of Tessa's paintings. (13) Meals in Tessa's workshops are fresh, colorful, healthful and Mediterranean inspired. (14, 15) Sign on for a workshop with the ArtisTTable and you'll see Cezanne's studio in Aix and the typical "gardian's cabins" of the Camargue.  (16-18) Walk the Arts offers workshops that combine Provence and Spain. You'll paint at Cezanne's famous Mont St. Victoire, then zip off to Barcelona for the Boqueria food market, Gaudi's famous Sagrada Familia and more. (19) Fiona and Jean-Louis Diaz are an Australian-French couple based 30 minutes north of Aix. They run Artelier Provence and will host two four-night retreats this year. (20) A student in an Artelier Provence workshop. (21) Teaching color theory at Artelier Provence. (22-24) With Workshops in France: painting the hilltop village of Gordes, in St. Remy and in Cucuron. (25, 26) A poppy painting by instructor Jane Hunt, who taught this gang at Workshops in France in 2019. (27) Students at Academy Studios Abroad stay in this historic private home in Aubais, in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains. (28) Painting nudes with Academy Studios Abroad. (29) A visit to the Musee Fabre in Montpellier with Academy Studios Abroad. (30-33) Simon and Monica Roberts of Painting in France have lived and worked in the Languedoc since 2011. After breakfast, you may head to the ancient Mediterranean port of Marseillan and spend the morning sketching and painting. You'll stay in a renovated village house (perhaps this one) or in a local chateau. (34, 35) A sketch by Annette Morris, done as a workshop demo; here Annette teaches upside down so students can easily see her working. (36) Anne de Ravel (far right) organizes food and wine trips in the Languedoc. She's teamed up with Annette Morris to offer "Sketching for Foodies" twice this year. Anne previously worked for Food Network and the New York Times, before returning home to her native France.

Love Antiquing? Want to Be on TV?

I just received the following email which sounds like a really fun opportunity for one of you...or perhaps for someone you know? 

Dear Julie,

I love your blog and thought you might be able to help...

We are Purple Productions, part of All3Media Group, based in the UK. We've recently been commissioned by BBC 1 Daytime to produce a brand new antiques programme/pilot.

The aim of the programme would be to help expat British homeowners who have finished restoring/renovating--or are in the process of renovating--an amazing property in Provence.  The idea is to have an experienced antiques dealer help them find beautiful objects and furniture to add the finishing touches to their homes.

This is a pilot and if filming goes well and the channel is happy, it will be commissioned as a series.

As it’s a pilot we can help with some of the costs but in the series it will be the homeowners who’ll be paying for the actual items. What the programme will offer is the expert advice and invaluable contacts of our dealers, to get the homeowners not just incredible items but hopefully at very competitive prices. They'll be using all their knowledge and contacts to get our homeowners the best deals!

Ideally we'd like a full-time resident in Provence but part time will work too...as long as they're British.

We hope that filming for the pilot will take place in late February and early March, in the Avignon/Provence region. 

We need to find just one homeowner soon to hit our schedule and really appreciate any help you can offer! Do you know anyone who might want to take part in this BBC 1 pilot? If so we’d love to hear from them. They can contact us at: info@purpleproductions.co.uk

Many Thanks,

Dympna Jackson
Creative Director
Purple Productions / Objective Media Group North

Photo: Courtesy of Cachepot Brocante via Instagram. 

Must See in the Luberon: Mathieu Lustrerie

Ever since I visited them roughly two years ago, I've been wanting to blog about Mathieu Lustrerie, a one-of-a-kind lighting atelier in Gargas, in the heart of the Luberon. They design and create the most elegant, distinctive, remarkable lighting...and repair chandeliers for royal palaces, prestigious hotels, spectacular private residences and clients such as the Louvre, the Elysée Palace and Versailles. The showroom is open to the public; they also have a lighting museum with rotating exhibits and pieces dating to the 15th century. While the on-site workshop is not open to the public, you can watch the meticulous goings-on through large windows. And it's all located in a re-purposed 19th-century ochre processing facility with many original architectural elements intact. This place is so special! But for one reason or another, I just haven't been able to get the story done. And then last week, I saw that another blogger, Deborah MacNeill, had done an exquisite story about it, calling owner Regis Mathieu "possibly the world’s premier creator, collector and restorer of magnificent chandeliers and lighting artworks" and illustrating her piece with gorgeous, original photos. So I reached out to her and asked if, rather than write my own story, I could just share hers with you...and she replied immediately mais oui! 

A Canadian commercial and editorial photographer, Deborah first came to Provence with her husband Arnold in January 2013 "in search of sun and inspiration"--both of which they found in abundance in the Luberon. That November, the couple bought an 18th-century mas in the small hamlet of Saint Véran, just outside Goult. Originally named Villa Goult, they re-christened it "Mas Belle Source" for the freshwater springs on the property which have fed their fountain for more than three centuries. 

"As our dream of Provence has taken shape," Deborah tells me, "we've had such pleasure improving the property, gardens and décor with antiques and ideas we find in the treasure troves of Provence–its lively fairs, brocante markets and ubiquitous vide greniers." Today the couple splits their time between Vancouver, B.C. and Provence. They typically spend spring, fall and winter in the Luberon...and welcome guest rentals at Mas Belle Source from June to September. Read more about the house here and see all the rental info here.

Deborah's blog, Provence by Design, was launched in 2013 and celebrates her passion for beautiful homes, talented artists, gardens, food and the Provencal lifestyle. Her latest project is a book inspired by creative women in Provence titled Les Lubertines; she expects to finish it this summer. As one would expect, the blog and the book are both heavily illustrated with Deborah's luscious photography. 

“I've always sought to use photography as narrative--to tell a story," she says. "It's a joyful way to explore the world. As an anonymous sage once said: 'To write about it (or photograph it) is to live life twice.' We have something wonderful and completely out of our predictable lives happen to us every day in Provence that contributes to my work. Living here has rekindled and continuously inspires our creative souls. We are bewitched!"

To see Deborah's story about Mathieu Lustrerie, click here.  

To inquire about renting Mas Belle Source, click here. 

You can follow Deborah on Instagram here and then subscribe to--or follow--her blog with the links that follow every post. 

To contact her directly: deborahmacn@gmail.com. 

Photos: (1) Regis Mathieu and (2) his chandelier called A Cube, made of rock crystal and amethyst, produced in a limited edition of 8. These two photos courtesy of Mathieu Lustrerie; all other photos courtesy of Deborah MacNeill. (3) The workshop produces “the art of light in all its facets" for royal palaces, prestigious hotels and spectacular private residences...like yours! (4) Fitting polished fins together on a chandelier for a Russian client. (5, 6) In the museum, a chinoiserie cabinet and glittering antique chandeliers. (7) This sculptural "astrolabe" lamp made of black rock crystal was one of my favorites when I visited. (8) In the workshop. (9) The intricate task of wiring. (10) Deborah photographed in the museum. (11) A lamp designed to resemble a sea urchin. (12-14) At Deborah's home Mas Belle Source, the main entry, the dining room and the en suite bedroom called "La Rose."  (15) Deborah at home in Provence.

Winter Writing Retreat in Provence

Two women I adore and admire have teamed up to host a late-winter writing retreat in the South of France. Whether you’re already published, still aspiring or just curious, this five-night getaway in the beautiful Provencal countryside will be a journey of self-discovery and give you tools to help your writing spring to life, whether you’re interested in food writing, personal narrative, fiction or just about anything else. All levels are welcome!

The March 2 to 7 workshop will be led by Elizabeth Bard, the American author of the bestselling memoir and cookbook Lunch in Paris (Little Brown, 2010), along with two other books: Picnic in Provence (Little Brown, 2015) and her latest, Dinner Chez Moi: 50 French Secrets for Joyful Eating and Entertaining (Little Brown, 2017). Her articles on food, art, travel and digital culture have appeared in The New York Times, The London Times, Wired, Harper's Bazaar and The Huffington Post, among others. Elizabeth lives in Arles with her French husband Gwendal and their adorable 10-year-old son. 

“For me, writing is both a passion and a craft,” Elizabeth says. “Since I published my first book in 2010, I’m amazed at the number of readers who write to me saying they have their own stories to share. This week is about confronting the blank page – in writing and in life!” 

Your host for the week will be Kelly Goehler, an American (originally from Nashville) who landed in Provence after years spent working in the marketing world, in New York and Asia. Kelly owns and runs La Belugue Wellness and Wandering Retreats and La Belugue Cooking School, from her gorgeous, art-filled 18th-century farmhouse in the Southern Luberon. Her warm style of southern hospitality and her French culinary training make La Belugue the perfect, Provencal escape in any season. Kelly and her husband Philippe have made their home in the tiny village of  Beaumont-de-Pertuis since 2017. You can read what I wrote about La Belugue here. 

“I feel so lucky to be living this life and it makes me so happy to share it with others,” Kelly says. "This is a chance to learn about this wild, unspoiled part of the country...its culture, traditions, food, wine and more. And at the same time, to write your heart out guided by an accomplished author who knows the region intimately.”

The five-night retreat includes accommodation at La Belugue or a similar B&B in the same village, all meals (except two lunches and one dinner), daily writing workshops and one private coaching session with Elizabeth. Plus, plans include wine tasting, truffle hunting, a cooking class, a visit to Cezanne’s studio in Aix, a boat ride and bouillabaisse meal in Cassis and a hilltop picnic at a 12th-century chapel. You’ll enjoy aperitifs by the fireplace, sunsets over the vineyards, superb home-cooked meals with local wines and much more. 

Airfare and transfers from the train station or airport are not included. Pricing is 3000€ per person for a private room, 5400€ for a double room or 2700€ per person for a shared room. 

Day trippers (those living or staying in the area) are welcome for 1500€ per person; details of what’s included in that package appear here. 

I know from personal experience that creative getaways of this type can be completely life changing. In 1997, I signed up for a two-week photography workshop in Provence...my first visit to the region. I think it was on Day #3, after the jet lag had started to ease, that I realized two weeks wasn't going to be anywhere near enough. I returned about a year later, and that's when reality hit: my marriage to New York was pretty much over and my love affair with Provence was in full bloom. I went back to New York, quit my job, sublet my apartment, found a cute little stone house in St. Remy and have been blissfully happy here since. Who knows what may happen if you grab this chance to experience the magic of Provence while pursuing your passion for writing with a small group like-minded people? 

“Provence is such an inspiring place to write,” Elizabeth says. “The cuisine, the history, the landscape – there’s so much to get the creative spirit moving. I'm so excited to share that with you." 

All the retreat details are on the La Belugue website here. 

If you have specific questions for Kelly or Elizabeth, feel free to reach out:  kelly@la-belugue.com or elizabethbard@hotmail.com.

Photos: (1). You've arrived! La Belugue is surrounded by vineyards and yes, you'll drink the wines! (2) Elizabeth Bard. (3) Kelly Goehler. (4) Elizabeth's first book was the best-selling memoir and cookbook "Lunch in Paris." Two books have followed. (5) Once part of the village’s original farm, the 18th-century house that's now La Belugue was used as a shelter for sheep and for hay storage. While the exterior is simple and rustic, the interior is vibrant and colorful, with high ceilings, lots of light, art, sculpture and original architectural elements. Here Kelly has combined her passions for hospitality, local food, wine, fitness, nature, horses and more. (6) The tile was made by a local artist. (7) The area surrounding Beaumont-de-Pertuis is heavily agricultural, with beautiful farms and orchards producing high-quality fruit, veg, wheat, meat, cheese, flowers, olive oil and wine grapes...much of it organic. (8) In the 14th century, Beaumont-de-Pertuis was a prosperous market town with roughly 1,000 residents; it has not many more today. It's just 30 minutes from Aix, an hour from the Gorges du Verdon. (9) Cooking class at La Belugue. (10) Rolling hills and lush green valleys are dotted with historic villages and sites. The snow-topped peaks of the Alps are very often visible in the distance. (11) A goatherd and her flock pass by. (12) Guests love to gather at the fireplace for the apero before dinner. (13) Cheese, Bread, Wine: Kelly loves to support and promote local organic producers. "Everything in this picture was made within 20 miles of us," she says. (14) A guestroom at La Belugue. (15-17) Day trips and activities during the retreat will include a truffle hunt, a boat ride to see the gorgeous cliffs and coves of the Calanques and a bouillabaisse in Cassis (last photo courtesy of TootaCassis.fr).

You're Invited: Thanksgiving in France 2019

Because I totally live to please you, once again I've rounded up a great selection of American Thanksgiving celebrations here in the South of France and in Paris. Who attends these gala soirées? Local expats of course, but also hungry French folks and other Europeans, travelers, house guests...whomever! With a couple exceptions, all nationalities are wanted and welcome! 

Over the years, many of my French friends have told me they love the idea of celebrating this American holiday...to meet new people, to sample unusual foods, to learn the history and traditions. At a friend's Thanksgiving in Provence a few years back, one French guest told me he loved how the various dishes were served all at once, all on one plate, rather than in courses. Another said he was looking forward to his first taste of cranberry sauce, which he called red fruits jam. 

While the literal translation is Action de Grâce, most French people just call it Thanksgiving...except for my friend Philippe who refers to it as Merci Donnant, which he says "means absolutely nothing at all." 

I’ve only listed the Thanksgivings that still had space available, as of today. Book soon because most have limited capacity and fill up. For a Thanksgiving meal on Nov. 30 at the American Church in Paris--the first American church established outside the United States, with roots back to 1814--seats will be opened up to non parishioners after Nov. 17 but there's a special service on Thanksgiving Day, open to all. 

Also in Paris, there's a Thanksgiving cooking class, with lunch or dinner, that sounds like great fun.

For those of you hosting your own Thanksgiving or sharing in the food prep, I've provided three sources for traditional ingredients. When it comes to the big juicy bird, the Paris shop called The Real McCoy sells them both fresh and already roasted; more info about that is below.

If you're hosting or know of a Thanksgiving celebration in the South of France that's not listed here, email me the info (provenceblog@aol.com) and I'll happily add it. 

And finally, a very heartfelt thank you to all of you: for reading and supporting my blog...for sharing it with your friends....for commenting on the stories you particularly enjoy. I wish you all the most joyous and delicious Merci Donnant, wherever you plan to spend it!

COTE D’AZUR

The American Club of the Riviera's Thanksgiving is a gala, annual affair...large, elegant and extremely popular. This year it's in the Salon Belle Epoque at the Hotel Hermitage in Monte Carlo on Thursday Nov. 28, starting with a 12:30 Champagne reception, followed by a luncheon feast of butternut squash veloute, stuffed turkey, sweet potatoes, sweet corn, grilled veggies and apple and pumpkin pies.  All nationalities are welcome but book quickly as this event always sells out; 150 people are expected and it's first come, first served with priority going to members and their families. Last call for reservation payments is Nov 19. All the info is on the ACR website here. Questions? secretary@americanclubriviera.com.

MonacoUSA will host its annual Thanksgiving dinner at StarsNBars (Monaco) on Thursday Nov. 28  starting at 7 pm. Seating is family style at communal tables in the main restaurant. The menu: Stuffed turkey with cranberry sauce, peas, creamed onions, sweet potatoes, corn on the cob and cornbread. Desserts will be apple tart, pumpkin pie, pecan pie and brownies. Also included: a glass of wine, beer or soft drink, bottled water and espresso.  Cost: 40€ adults, 25€ kids.  Space is limited, you must reserve through MonacoUSA at rsvpmcusa@gmail.com  and payment in advance is required; no payment at the door and no walk-ins allowed, sorry! All details are on Facebook here.

The MonacoUSA party (just above) is open to everyone but for those who don’t want to join the group, the all-you can-eat Thanksgiving buffet will be available at StarsNBars starting at 7 pm. Cost is 38€ for adults and 20€ for kids, excluding drinks. The restaurant will also be serving its regular menu that evening. Turkey will be served as the plat du jour at lunch, starting at noon, for 21€ (with a drink and dessert) or 15€ (main course only). To book: + 377 9797 9595. Questions: info@starsnbars.com.

The Riviera Chapter of Democrats Abroad invites you to a festive Thanksgiving pot luck at Holy Trinity Church Hall, at 11 rue de la Buffa in Nice, on Nov. 28 from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. It’s open to members, Americans in the region and accompanying guests. Seats are limited and they’re filling up quickly so RSVP soon!  DA will provide the turkey and asks all guests to bring a prepared salad, vegetable or dessert to be shared. (Sorry, no cooking facilities available on-site). The closest parking is Palais de la Méditerranée or Grimaldi and there are several bus stops in walking distance. For a map and details, click here. For more info, to RSVP or questions: daf-riviera@democratsabroad.org. *NOTE THIS EVENT IS NOW SOLD OUT, SORRY!

PROVENCE

Once again, the Anglo-American Group of Provence welcomes the community to its annual family-oriented  Thanksgiving in Aix "with a spirit of appreciation for all that we share."  The dinner is Sunday, Nov. 24 at 4 pm (aperitif) and 5 pm (dinner) at Restaurant Le Verguetier, 7 chemin d'Eguilles in Celony (Aix), across from the Maison de Ste-Victoire. They'll have all the traditional foods: turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans, sweet potatoes and pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Cost: 20€ for members, 10€ for their children under 12; 36€ for guests and 18€ for their children under 12. This includes aperitif, the meal with dessert, wine and coffee. To reserve, send a check payable to AAGP to Michel Parisot, 5 rue Emmanuel Brunet, 13080 Luynes.  Please make sure to specify the number of adults and kids (with ages). Reservations will be made upon receipt of your check, which must be received by Nov. 18. Questions? bobkeltz@aol.com or 06 37 83 80 45.

Once again the Avignon Chapter of Democrats Abroad will celebrate Thanksgiving with a family-style pot luck at the Cavaillon home of Joan and Charlie Jarowski. The party’s scheduled for Sunday, Nov. 24, from 1 pm to 5 pm. Expect turkey of course but also baked ham, leg of lamb, sausages and all the typical sides including an Impeachment Pie for dessert. Guests are asked to make a small financial contribution and also to bring a starter, side, dessert or drinks to share. *NOTE THIS EVENT IS NOW SOLD OUT WITH NO WAIT LIST.

At the restaurant L'Epicerie de Cecile in Beaucaire, chef/owner Cécile Guillo is all fired up to host her annual Thanksgiving fête, at lunch and dinner, on Saturday Nov. 30. Seating is communal at large tables for 12. Expect to pay 25 to 30€ per person (with a couple glasses of wine) and there will be live music in the evening. Cecile is also happy to offer her traditional Thanksgiving meal on the day itself (Thursday Nov. 28) but only for groups of 10 or more.  To reserve: 07 85 40 38 20. The restaurant has no website but they’re on Facebook here. Questions? niefchristine12@gmail.com.

Near Forcalquier, the restaurant Le Bistrot de Pierrerue in Pierrerue celebrates its annual Thanksgiving on Friday Nov. 29 and Sat Nov. 30 at 8 pm. On the menu: an amuse bouche, brined and roasted turkey with dressing (made from bio sausage and chestnuts), homemade gravy and cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, roasted local Brussels sprouts,  pumpkin pie and chocolate pumpkin-seed torte with vanilla ice cream. Price is 25€ per person, without drinks. To book: 04 92 75 33 00, maryvonne.kutsch@orange.fr.

Once again my friend Jon Chiri, an American chef with 20+ years experience working in Provence, will offer a Thanksgiving lunch at Cuisine Centr'Halles, his cafe and cooking school at Les Halles, the wonderful indoor food market in Avignon. On Thursday Nov. 28, Jon invites you to join his family for a special holiday lunch from 11:30 am to 2:15 pm. (The market officially closes at 2:15 pm so be sure to seated by 1:30 pm latest.) The Thanksgiving Plat du Jour (turkey with Jon's version of accoutrements) will be 24€ ...or 30€ with pumpkin pie. Wine and soft drinks are extra. To reserve: contact@jonathanchiri.com, 06 46 89 85 33.

Biocoop - La Coumpagnie in Aix (840 ave. du Camp de Menthe ) will host two Thanksgivings on Thursday Nov. 28: a lunch at the store and a dinner at the restaurant BioChef, near the center of Aix. The lunch, owner Rick Harrison says, ''is mostly for our curious French clientele and always our biggest lunch turnout of the year!" It’s 18.50€ per person and reservations are not necessary.  Then comes the main event: a dinner starting at 7:30 pm. at BioChef (4 rue Pierre de Coubertin, 13100 Aix). "We have a wide diversity of Americans, French and English people excited to attend," Rick says. "The meal will be 100% organic, 0% GMOs and 100% homemade from American family recipes.” The evening starts with spiced wine and appetizers, followed by turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, green bean casserole (with cream of mushroom soup...yes!), pumpkin and pecan pies and a classic cheesecake. Prices are 29€ adults and 19€ kids under 12; wine and beer are available for purchase. Reservations are required for dinner; reserve soon as there’s less availability than last year, due to the change in venue. To reserve: 06 81 34 85 74, rick@biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr. 

On Friday Nov. 29, Cyril Giordano, chef/owner of the restaurant BioChef in Aix (see listing just above) will present his own Thanksgiving dinner. Like the one the previous night, it will be 100% organic but this will be quite a bit more gastronomic. It’s 37€ per person (kids or adults); drinks are extra. Seating starts at 8 pm and reservations are required: 04 42 93 26 05. BioChef is at 4 rue Pierre de Coubertin, 13100 Aix.  

PARIS 

Celebrations Hosted by Clubs

The American University Clubs of France (which promotes networking, cultural and business-related events for all American University alumni in France), invites you to their traditional Thanksgiving dinner on Tuesday, Nov 26 at 7 pm at the Ecole Militaire. Founded in 1750 by Louis XVI for the training of military officers, the Ecole Militaire is an important heritage site that’s normally closed to the public so this is rare opportunity to enjoy exclusive access. A four-course meal will be served, starting with an aperitif and ending with pecan pie. Wine and soft drinks are included. Price: 59€ for AUC member; 69€ non members. Registration is limited so be sure to reserve soon, by clicking here before Nov. 12; registration closes after that date. For security purposes, you’ll be asked to provide official ID to enter the building. Questions? contact@aucfrance.com

The American Club of Paris will hold its annual Thanksgiving at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Paris 3ème) on Friday Nov. 29 at 7:30 pm. This private hunting and nature museum in the heart of the Marais has been described by Smithsonian Magazine as "one of the most rewarding and inventive in Paris." The evening includes pre-dinner Champagne (accompanied by Lionel Patrix at the piano), an elegant Thanksgiving dinner and after-dinner drinks in the bar. The dress code is evening attire/black tie optional and roughly 50 people are expected. Members 150€; non-members and guests 175€. All the info and registration is here. Questions? contact@americanclubparis.org, 01 47 23 64 36.

Restaurants

There seem to be more and more Thanksgiving celebrations in Paris restaurants each year, ranging from the very-casual one at the Hard Rock Cafe  (Nov. 28 at lunch and dinner; reserve here or call 01 53 24 60 00) to the very-posh one at Ralph's in Ralph Lauren's elaborately appointed store on the Blvd. St.-Germain (dinner Nov 28, with a set menu at 135€). Reservation by email only please: restaurant.ralphs@ralphlauren.com. Questions? 01 44 77  76 00.

On Thursday, Nov. 28, chef Fabienne Eymard of the Michelin-starred Parisian bistro Benoit invites you for free-range turkey stuffed with wild mushrooms, cranberry and gravy (46€). Details and reservations are here. restaurant.benoit@ducasse-paris.com, 01 42 72 25 76.

This year, the restaurant Sunday in Soho (at 7 rue Saint Marc, hello@sundayinsoho.com) will offer Thanksgiving for three nights (Nov. 28, 29, 30), with two seatings per night. The 55€ adult price includes appetizers, the Thanksgiving feast, desserts and one glass of Champagne or the house cocktail. Kids prices upon request. Reservations are online only, here.

Not what you’re looking for? Thanksgiving is also being celebrated at Joe Allen, Verjus, Harry’s Bar, Breakfast in America, Ô Chateau and Treize au Jardin. 

A Paris Church

At the American Church in Paris (65 quai d’Orsay), Thanksgiving will be celebrated on Saturday Nov. 30 at 5:30 pm. A traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings is 20€ for adults, 15 € for kids. The event is currently open to parishioners only, but any remaining tickets will be available to the general public sometime after Sunday Nov. 17 on a first-come, first-served basis, at the church and possibly online. Also, a special Thanksgiving service will be held Nov. 28 at 12:15, with music, a speaker and a reception afterwards. For more info: reception@acparis.org, 01 40 62 05 00.

Cooking Class with Lunch or Dinner

La Cuisine Paris is once again offering their popular Thanksgiving Cooking Class; in fact this year they’re hosting two! On Thursday Nov. 28 you can choose between a lunchtime or evening class and enjoy the festivities! Find out more and snap up a space here. Info: contact@lacuisineparis.com, 01 40 51 78 18.

SUPPLIES

MyAmericanMarket.com sells lots of things you’ll likely need to prepare your holiday feast: cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, cornbread mix, gravy, corn syrup and more. They also have ingredients and treats for other holidays, too, such as eggnog and candy canes. They are 100% online and will deliver pretty much anywhere in the world.  The company uses various couriers but plan to order by Nov. 14 to get your goodies sent to you anywhere in France  in time. Specific Thanksgiving foods are on a special page here. contact@myamericanmarket.com, 05 34 50 47 36.

The Franco-American owners of My Little America, Todd and Anthony, hail from Ohio and Brittany and launched their mail-order business to make it possible for Americans to find their favorite foods easily, wherever they might live....and to help French people discover these new products. Today they import a wide range of American foods and ship them throughout France and Europe. For Thanksgiving, they sell cranberry sauce (whole berry and jellied), stuffing mix, turkey gravy, corn muffin mix, corn syrup (light and dark), graham crackers, canned pumpkin, cut sweet potatoes and more. See their Thanksgiving selection here. Their special items for Christmas are already available online too. Plus they sell classics such as Kraft Mac & Cheese, Toll-House Chocolate Chips, A-1 Steak Sauce, Jif Peanut Butter, A&W Root Beer and more. Questions: contact@mylittleamerica.com.

The Real McCoy is the Parisian go-to for American foods, particularly at holiday time.  In their shop (no mail order) they’re selling fresh farm-bred turkeys...or they’ll even roast and package it for you with stuffing and roasting juices. (Be sure to order at least a few days ahead.) Their roast turkeys average 4 to 7 kilos each; they request a 30€ deposit and then charge 11.50€ per kilo. The Real McCoy also sells pecan and pumpkin pies, cheesecakes and a wide selection of Thanksgiving products such as fresh cranberries and canned cranberry sauce, turkey gravy, stuffing mix, cornbread mix, pie crusts and fillings, yams, turkey bags, basters and more. They’re located at:  194 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris, 01 45 56 00 00, us.food@wanadoo.fr. No website but find them on Facebook here. 

Above: The much-loved, often-parodied painting is Norman Rockwell's "Freedom from Want" from 1942. Everyone in it was a Rockwell family member or friend; they were photographed individually and painted into the scene. Learn more about the painting and artist here.