River Kayaking in Provence 2025

River kayaking in Provence is super easy...a fabulous way to while away a few hours, get deliciously cool, have a swim if you want one and see some fantastic scenery. 

If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are often staffers on the river to help and the kayaks are very open. Meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped. Our rivers are relatively free of obstacles, shallow and generally slow flowing. I encourage many of my clients to give it a go and no one has told me they didn't love it! On a hot day, it's just heaven.

You can kayak (and canoe and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), and also on the Durance River, in the Southern Luberon. But whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (just 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue). You can can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias, a super-fun way to experience the 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard. 

Keep in mind the four places mentioned above (the Sorgue, the Gardon, the Durance and the Rhône) are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place, I'd love to know! 

As the season goes on, the outfitters get extremely busy so you should definitely reserve at least a day or two ahead, if not more. You'll find the details on everything below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE IN THE LUBERON

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in Isle sur la Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is a great way to spend the afternoon. Then again, it's great fun any day, morning or afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus (usually with disco music blasting, but in a good way). There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple reasons but either is fine! Both outfitters sell snacks (cold drinks, ice cream, etc.), have bathrooms and offer plenty of parking.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group but you don’t really have to. The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling. Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly and have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both companies give you a watertight container for your stuff and life preserver vests.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended.

Canoe Evasion: 2025 prices:  €26 pp adults; €20 for students with student card, €13 for kids under 14. Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €22 each, students pay €20 each with student card, kids (6-14) pay €13. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. Minimum age is six and kids must be able to swim at least 25 meters and submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water). Open every day from May 15 to September 30 (but closed the third weekend in September). Open daily from 9 am to 3:30 pm, with departures every 40 mins or so. Bookings can be made by phone (+33 (0)4 90 38 26 22) or online (canoe-evasion.com). 

Kayak Vert. 2025 prices:  €27 pp adults 17+, €22 for young people (13-16), €14 for kids (6-12). For groups of 15 or more, please inquire. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters. Payment is by credit card only (but no Amex). Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations by phone ( +33 (0) 4 66 22 80 76) or online (kayakvert.com).

A Bit About Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, it's truly a gorgeous site to see. Actually its pretty gorgeous all the time.

In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (As it turns out they weren’t even close: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot here easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has a great museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies based on the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants right on or near the river and some cute shops.

Not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that families love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON 

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias, between Uzes and the Pont du Gard. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fantastic way to experience this 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc. The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue River, the outfitters bring you back by bus. Reservations aren't required but they're definitely recommended and booking is online only. In high season definitely reserve at least a few days before.   

Canoe Collias, canoe-collias.com, or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32. Prices for 2025: €27 for adults, €20 for teens (13-17), €15 for kids (6-12).

Kayak Vert Collias/Pont du Gard, kayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com. Prices for 2025:  €27 for adults 17+, €22 for teens (13-16) and €14 for kids (6-12).

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Operated by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak, also known as Canoe Kayak Vaucluse) rather than a private company, this experience is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor. I've never kayaked here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet (aka the Pont d'Avignon) wouldn't be great fun.  Kayak rentals in July/August are by the half hour: 30 minutes is €8 pp, 60 minutes is €12 pp, 90 minutes is €16 pp. Kids prices (ages 7 to 12) are slightly less. Open daily from 2 pm to 6:30 including holidays, from 5 July to 29 August. They also rent canoes and stand-up paddleboards.

Individual paddlers can go out every afternoon in July and August. Those who do tend to potter around the famous bridge, perhaps traveling one km or so in either direction. There's always a staffer on a jet ski on hand to help if needed. Or, there's the guided “Descente” activity every afternoon, where you'll go 8 km with a mixed group.

Groups (7 people or more) can canoe every afternoon of the year when it's safe to do so. A bilingual tour guide can be arranged to accompany your group but this must be arranged in advance, at an extra fee. 

There are also three “river discovery tours” in July and August...check the website closer to July for details. 

Despite the Rhône being so wide and big, it ranges from knee-deep to 8 meters or so in this particular area. There’s very little danger as you're not allowed to get out of the canoe (unlike on the Gardon where you can pull over to swim, picnic, etc.). This outfitter also welcomes wheelchair users (you'll be lifted out of your wheel chair, helped with a special apparatus and seated in the canoe.) And dogs are welcome! 

Please note this outfitter is on the Ile de la Barthelasse, the island in the middle of the Rhône, adjacent to Avignon. If you're driving, there's plenty of nearby parking. If you're walking from Avignon, they're 10 minutes from the Port de l'Oulle on the Avignon side of the River. 

Questions? Call +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73 or +33 (0)6 51 60 13 59. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm and can be reached at: +33 (0)4 28 70 27 27.  Canoe-Vaucluse.fr , contact@canoe-vaucluse.fr. 

KAYAKING ON THE DURANCE IN THE SOUTHERN LUBERON

Another outfitter I recently discovered is AFDA Canoe, which offers canoeing and kayaking on the Durance River in the Southern Luberon. An 8 km route takes you from Cadenet to Lauris (75 minutes) while an 18 km course links Puy Sainte Reparade to Lauris (three hours). They offer canoes for 2 or 3 people...and kayaks for more experienced paddlers. This one is on my summer to-do list for sure...I can't wait to kayak the Durance! 

Photos: (1) A Sunday on the Sorgue with my peeps.  (2, 3) Kayaking at the Pont du Gard and on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert. (4) The staffers at these kayak places tend to be young, super helpful and fun.  (5, 6) Kayaking on the Rhone at Avignon. (7) The famous source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, photo courtesy of TheLuberon.com. (8) Chilling on the Sorgue, photo courtesy of Canoe Evasion. 

Just Out: Jamie Beck's Provence Book

In 2016, Texas-born photographer Jamie Beck was living in New York—running her own studio, doing commercial work for brands such as Chanel, Donna Karan and Nike and editorial work for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and others--when she decided to take a one-year sabbatical in the South of France.

Her husband, Kevin Burg, was understanding. “I think we were both ready for a little break, some fresh air and a little perspective,” she remembers.

Six years later Jamie is still in France, thriving personally and professionally, and this week is huge for her because yesterday, her first book officially came out in the U.S.  Called An American in Provence (Simon Element, $40), it’s now widely available online and from your favorite bookseller. 

When Jamie sent me an advance copy of An American in Provence last week, I knew I wanted to share her book news with you. But I was leaving on a little trip, had other deadlines and needed to hold off writing about it for just a few days. Still, I thought I’d dip in and read just a bit, then enjoy the rest later when I had time. But at 2 am I was still savoring it and I finished it the next day. I literally couldn’t put it down…it’s exquisite!

Organized around the four seasons, the book is essentially a memoir, illustrated with 204 of Jamie’s lush, evocative photos. But it’s also a cookbook (with seasonal recipes created by Jamie, her friends and local chefs), all of them based upon Provencal ingredients. And it’s a travelogue too, with Jamie taking you by the hand, through text and photos, introducing you to some of her favorite people and places. And it’s a photo tutorial, with solid tips for improving your own images. There are sections on shooting indoors and out; shooting kids, self-portraits and nudes; learning to pose; and yes, even tips on pinning bugs for still-life photography. Anyone who knows Jamie’s work knows how she loves bugs!

All of these things combine to create a passionate love letter to Provence--to the beauty of the landscape, climate, lifestyle and people--and a testament to what can happen when one decides to listen to that inner voice, drastically change their life and take a terrifying leap into the unknown.

So what exactly was wrong in New York? What was it that made Jamie leap?

“I had it all,” she explains, “A ‘dream life’ with a cool job, amazing clients, luxury trips, designer clothes, a cute little vintage Mercedes convertible, a house in the Hamptons, a French-looking apartment by Riverside Park and I could eat at any restaurant I wanted, any night of the week in New York. Full disclosure: I hate writing this out. It sounds privileged and grotesquely shallow. But that is what I was taught to work toward. That is what I was surrounded by, what our culture rewards…That is what I was paid to capture professionally with my lens, the ‘perfect aspirational lifestyle,’ in photoshoots that were all façades. As my mom in her Southern accent likes to say, “All meringue, no substance.”

She continues: “I dreamed of having time to focus on my craft, to explore a richer meaning in my work, but most of my time was spent working for clients, as if I were an unlimited resource, a photographic, copywriting, photoshoot-producing, post-production-editing machine. Until I wasn’t anymore. Until I fried my creative engines.”

An American in Provence is just the latest in a long, long line of creative projects that Jamie has pursued during her time in Provence. For someone who came here to slow down, her output has been beyond prodigious! First and foremost there’ve been numerous fine-art photo projects such as a series of Provencal self portraits and the 60 gorgeous one-a-day “Isolation Creation” still lifes she created and photographed during Covid lockdown. (She sold the images in her online shop and donated funds to the Foundation for Contemporary Arts' Covid-19 Emergency Grants Fund.) More recently, there was a similar project called Rose Month. Then there have been collaborations with a wide range of Provence people, businesses, and brands, including the winery Domaine Milan, Luxe Provence, Le Mas de Poiriers and many others.  And periodically Jamie still hops on a plane to shoot for fashion clients, magazine clients and luxury brands in various far-flung locations…and sells her work online as prints and posters…and markets products based on life in Provence, some of which she creates or co-creates.

She shares most everything on her Instagram (372K followers), through photos, stories, highlights, reels, captions and comments. In Jamie’s hands, Instagram is truly another art form.

One of the things I love about Jamie’s Instagram is how she involves the audience in the process. For example, she’ll write about the experience of finding the right printer or frame-maker and then take you there, through video, to actually meet them and watch them work. Or she’ll share a video of how she creates one of her still-life photos, which is fascinating to see and adds so much to the appreciation of the finished image.

“You’re fun in Provence,” Jamie’s husband Kevin announced, the first time he came from New York to visit her in France. The couple had vaguely talked about the future, where they might live separately or together, but that early trip cemented what was the right next step (and the next and the next) for both of them. Their daughter Eloïse was born in 2019 and Jamie writes beautifully about the experience of pregnancy, birth and motherhood in France. Today Kevin does all product and digital design for Jamie's company...and produces remarkable “cinemagraphs” and digital art of his own, which you can see on his Instagram here.

I remember talking with Jamie when she was working on the book. She was unsure about her voice, nervous about her approaching deadlines, juggling emotions that ranged from excited beyond words to total imposter syndrome. And now that she's deep into a cross-country whirlwind of parties, readings, signings and more, you can see how delighted she is with the end result. 

"This was the hardest thing I have ever done," Jamie tells me, "and yet (aside from my daughter) the thing I am most proud of in my entire life. It feels surreal. I just keep describing it to people as feeling like a Cinderella moment!"

So what's next for the American in Provence...will she and her family stay? Jamie says the time passed long ago when she and Kevin went from saying “one more month,” to “one more year” to “we live here now.”

“I had traveled for years to the far corners of the earth without knowing this particular kind of comfort,” she writes. “I am not lost when I am here. The second I leave, I can’t wait to get back…I am alive within myself, breathing every fiber of my being.”

“At the end of that very first year,” she continues, “I felt like I was still just beginning a journey of discovery both within myself and of French culture...I didn’t want to leave. And guess what? I still don’t. Like all the layers of human history around me I’m still uncovering, Provence continues to show me things, teach me things, while allowing me to live and breathe with her in harmony and balance.”

For More Info

To catch up with Jamie at a book signing, see her schedule here.

All of the photos in the book are now available as prints; you can buy them here.

River Kayaking in Provence 2021

On a hot sunny day, river kayaking is a fabulous way to while away a few hours...and doing it in Provence is super easy. You can kayak (and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), but whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse in the Luberon. You can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias (a great way to see the Pont du Gard) and while I haven't done it there myself, my friends and clients who have say it's fantastic. If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are staffers on the river to help (at least on the Sorgue there are), the kayaks are very open (meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped)...and these are not fast-running rivers. Below you'll find the details on everything.

The three places mentioned above are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place and want to share the info, please leave a comment below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine is a great way to spend the afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus.  There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple small reasons but either is fine! If you go with Kayak Vert, there's sometimes a wait at the beginning of the route where you have to go over a dam but there's always someone there to help. Both have small snack bars for cold drinks and ice cream.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group of boats but you don’t really have to.  The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling on the river banks. And don't miss the rope swing!  Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly; it's good to have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both outfitters give you a watertight container for your stuff (still, let's leave those priceless heirlooms at home)...and life preserver vests...and there's staff here and there on the river to help if you need it.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended!

Canoe Evasion: 2021 prices:  €20 pp adults; €10 for kids under 14.  Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €16 each. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. The price includes your gear (boats, paddles, watertight cans, life jackets) and your return ride in the bus. There’s no minimum age per se, but kids have to be able to swim at least 25 meters and be able to submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water). In general, the company prefers kids be five or older. Open every day from May 15 to October 15 (but closed the third weekend in September every year).  Open daily from 9 am to 6 pm, with departures every half hour, from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm. Bookings must be made by phone  : +33 (0)4 90 38 26 22 (no online booking), canoe-evasion.com, contact@canoe-evasion.net.

Kayak Vert. 2021 prices:  Adults (14 years and older) are  €22 in July/August or  €20 rest of the year, kids (under 14) are €12 in July/August or €10 rest of the year. For groups of 15 or more, adults pay €18 each. Price includes boats, paddles, watertight cans, life jackets and your return ride in the bus. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters.  Payment by credit card only (no American Express).  Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations only by phone:  +33 (0)4 82 29 42 42 or online at canoevert-vaucluse.fr

*A Bit about Fontaine de Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, the source is truly a gorgeous site to see. Even when it’s not at its peak, the river is super peaceful, bringing serenity in the height of the summer crowds. In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (They weren’t even close, as it turns out: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins, from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has an interesting museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies around the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants on or near the water and some cute shops.

And not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that kids love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fun way to see this 2000- year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc.  The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue, the outfitters bring you back by bus. 2021 prices: €23 for adults, €19 for teens (ages 13 to 17) and €12 for kids (6 to 12). Cash and credit cards accepted. Reservations not required but definitely recommended – online bookings only. For a family or small group, try to reserve at least a few days before.  

Canoe Collias, canoe-collias.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32.

Kayak Vert, Collias/Pont du Gard, kayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com.

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Run by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak) rather than a private company, this is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor . I've never canoed here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet wouldn't be great fun. Canoe rental in July/August : 30 mins is €8 pp, 60 mins is €12 pp, 90 mins is €16 pp. There are also three different  “river discovery tours” in July & August – check the website for details and prices. +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73, canoe-vaucluse.fr, contact@canoe-vaucluse.fr.

Photo Credits: (1, 2) Kayaking on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. (3) Kayaking at the Pont du Gard, courtesy of Canoe Collias. (4) Kayaking the Rhône at Avignon, courtesy of Avignon Tourisme.

Take a Hike...or Two

A new Avignon-based company called Hike Provence is offering private guided hikes across the region along with organized group hikes on set days that anyone can join. The hikes, at varying levels of difficulty, are designed to appeal to both tourists and locals alike.

While the project may have been nudged along by Covid, Hike Provence was really 30 years in the making.

Raised in Singapore and Korea, Charli Aron launched the company after returning to Europe from Vietnam, where she was painting, writing, climbing and hiking. “My family is in the UK and my son caught very bad Covid last Easter when I was in Vietnam,” she says. “He’s now fully recovered but I realized I wanted to be closer to home.”

Charli first met her business partner Marushka Delarbre (who grew up in Greece and Denmark) when they were both students in London 30 years ago. “And ever since then we’ve met regularly to walk and talk,” Charli says. “We’re both very keen trekkers and we’ve hiked all over the world, both together and alone.”

Marushka has lived in Provence for 25 years, running an organic apple farm above the village of Tallard in the Hautes-Alpes.

Charli arrived in August 2020.

“Through fortunate happenstance we’re now both based in amazing Provence, with the wonders of Mont Ventoux and the Alpilles Mountains on the horizon,” Charli says. “Discovering the stunning hills, gorges and passes has been such a joy. As a passionate climber and trekker, I thank my lucky stars daily that I live in Provence! Here the skies change hourly; over the course of one day we can be blessed with every color under the rainbow. The fauna I trek through in the mountains has all the aromas that season French cuisine. In short, it’s wonderful. And with so many things closed due to Covid this year, lots of other people have been excited to get out into the hills too.”

Private hikes are built around the needs and size of your group. Choose the date, level of difficulty and number of hours... and they’ll design the perfect hike for you. Rough pricing for private hikes is: €30 per person for three- to four-hour walk or €45 per person for a five to eight hours.

The day starts with a cup of Provencal-herb tea and a chat about expectations. “I recently had clients who wanted to hike the Pont du Gard and explained that they had been left weakened by Covid,” Charli recalls. “So of course I wanted to adapt the hike to their needs.” 

Along the route, Charli or Marushka share the history of the region, offering insider knowledge about important historic sites, geography, climate, plants, insects and more. Both women speak French and English while Marushka can also lead hikes in Spanish. A picnic can be added for an extra charge.

Group hikes (ten people max) happen roughly twice a month, in a mix of French and English. Upcoming hikes include Cabrières d'Avignon on Sunday April 25 (4 km) and the Pont du Gard on Sunday May 2 (11 km). Details about both (plus some recent hikes) are on the site here. To help you choose, hikes are rated leisurely, easy, medium or hard.

A Provencal Pass (€50) lets you enjoy five group hikes of your choosing at any time.

For now, hiking is mostly in the Luberon, the Alpilles and the Gard but Charli hopes to expand the offerings—possibly even to Corsica--if things go well. In the meantime Marushka is still farming and also does healing massage; Charli works as a writer and a painter. (Learn more about her work here.)

“At the moment, Hike Provence is a pleasure project,” she says. “But hopefully it will develop into something that we both can give plenty of time to. It’s just wonderful to be with people when they’ve pushed beyond their threshold and surprised themselves. A hiker often confronts physical barriers when climbing long, steep hills. And then when we pause, to rest or to have a picnic, there’s such a sense of elation. I also love the intimacy that quickly occurs when we’re walking side by side, sharing the beauty of nature.”

Whether you want to hike alone or with a small convivial group...whether you want hidden mountain passes or meandering river walks, to experience the gentle old goat paths above Avignon or the vertigo-inducing “steeps” of the Dentelles Montmirail...Charli would love to hear from you. 

“Hiking is a wonderful way to explore the secret paths that knit together the most beautiful villages of the region,” she says. “If you want to discover them up close and personal, smell the rosemary and thyme, muddy your boots...come hike with us! We hope your readers will get in touch and are ready to walk the walk!”

HikeProvence.com

hikeprovence@gmail.com

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Photos (1) Charli at the Gorges de Badarel. (2) Charli and Marushka take a break. (3) Hiking from Gordes to the Abbaye de Senanques. (4) Heading down is always more fun than up! (5) In the Dentelles de Montmirail. See the little hiker on the path? (6) The goat looked all friendly and then ate the picnic when backs were turned. (7) Lunch with a view of  the Gorges de Badarel. (8) Happy hikers reach the Rocher des Deux Trous in the Alpilles above St. Remy, overlooking the Greco-Roman ruins of Glanum. (9) Olive trees in the foothills of the Alpilles. (10) Hanging out in the Forêt des Cèdres, during a hike to discover the upper part of Cabrières d'Avignon.  (11) The Gorges du Verdon, often called The Grand Canyon of France. (12) Picnicing at the Pont du Gard, the beautifully preserved 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct built to carry water from Nimes. (13) The ochre cliffs of the Colorado Provençal, in the northern Luberon. (14) At the Gorges de Regalon, a magical trail at the base of a dramatic gorge, both hands and feet are often needed in some of the craggy passes.

Join Us! Photographing the White Horses of the Camargue

One of the most-special experiences I've booked for my clients is a day devoted to photographing the famous white horses of the Camargue...and the cowboys (gardians) who look after them. To do this, I've teamed up with a terrific photographer who knows the best ranches, best places to shoot and best time of day for the most-magical images. She took all the photos above.

Not only will you improve your skills considerably but you'll get an exciting glimpse of a cherished Provençale tradition that many travelers miss. 

Shooting lasts roughly 90 minutes but there’s a 45-minute tutorial beforehand, plus travel time to the shooting site, so plan to spend about three hours. Workshops are suited to all levels, from beginner to professional, using smart phones to DSLRs. The best time to shoot is around sunrise and sunset so the timing changes with the seasons. Workshops are either public (where you can book as a solo and be paired with other people) or private (for you and your peeps only). Public workshops are on set dates; private ones can happen anytime.

Please note that the photographer is observing all COVID safety protocols. Masks are mandatory and group sizes have been reduced for social distancing. 

By the way, people often refer to these horses as "wild" but that's not the case...there are no white horses just lurking around the Camargue! They're all owned by someone and most live on ranches (manades), behind fences or sometimes gates. Many ranches are indeed open to the public at certain times...but that's another story for another day. In general, you don't just roll up to a ranch and start shooting the horses...and you almost certainly wouldn't get great shots. So that's why these workshops are ideal.

Two types of private workshops are available on your choice of dates.  A group of 7 to 10 horses running in the watery marshes is 825€ (for up to 8 people). A group of 5 to 7 horses on the beach (and running in the sea) is 1650€ (for up to 10 people). The price is a flat fee for your group; each workshop includes gardians in traditional gardian garb! Private workshops are available year round.

Public workshops are available on set dates, starting three hours before sunset. June is sold out but the dates for the rest of the year as as follows:  July 1, July 8, July 15, July 22, July 29, Aug 5, Aug 12, Aug 19, Sept 5, Oct 3, Oct 10 and Nov 7. These alternate between the marsh (180€ pp) and the beach (235€ pp). 

Whether you sign up for a public or private shoot, you’ll meet the photographer in or near Aigues-Mortes, about 45 minutes from Arles. For the marsh shoots, be sure to wear water-proof boots to the knee. For beach shoots between May and October, bare feet or walking sandals and shorts are fine. Masks won't be provided...you need to bring your own.

This same photographer also offers three-day workshops, shorter sessions focused on the birds of the Camargue (flamingos and others) and workshops on demand for groups of all types. Let me know what interests you and I'll reach out! 

In May 2021, there will be special workshops with mares and their new foals...probably five of each. These public shoots will be held on a private ranch, in a typically marshy and lovely Camargue landscape with birds, reeds, etc. 

For more info or to book: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com. 

*Note from Julie: If you're heading for the South of France, please check my websites ProvencePostTravel.com and WhatToDoinProvence.com. There you'll see all the ways in which I can help, whether you need a completely custom itinerary or just a couple fab tours or activities. We do lots of hotel and villa booking too, all over Provence and the Cote d'Azur, and would love to help you find the perfect place!

Painting Holidays in Provence 2020

Many of my readers and travel-planning clients ask about painting workshops in Provence...and I've found some wonderful instructors happy to give half- and full-day lessons. (See some here.) But if you'd like something more comprehensive, you might consider a trip devoted mostly or entirely to painting. (Sounds like heaven, no?) Most of these painting holidays last about a week but some are as short as three nights; lodging ranges from rustic to highly refined. They happen all over the South of France, in spring, summer and fall. So once again I've gathered a selection for you, chosen because they're either led by painters I know and admire, or are recommended by people I trust, or they look really promising online. I've also included a few in the Languedoc (or Occitanie, as it’s now called).

For those of you who’ve never painted or haven’t painted in years...or who’ve never traveled with a group of strangers...or are nervous about spending the money...or nervous about whatever...here’s a quick anecdote.

My first trip to Provence was to take a two-week photography workshop here, in 1997. Not only was it a fantastic experience but it led to a total life change...one that I had no idea I was looking for. Over the course of the following year or so, I quit my long-time job as an editor in New York, ended a long-term relationship (he had it coming anyway), started a freelance writing career, sublet my NYC apartment, rented a house in St. Remy and took off. I spoke no French, had never dreamed of living in France and knew just a couple people here, just barely. It was meant to be an escapade, a little break from real life, but very quickly I realized it was the smartest stupid thing I’ve ever done. Twenty years on, I’m happier here than ever...and it would never have happened had I not grabbed the last spot in that workshop way back when. So carpe diem! Life is short, you never know and you totally deserve this!

For questions about any of the workshops below, please contact the organizer or instructor directly. And definitely book soon...the best ones fill up quickly. If you’re leading a painting holiday in Provence or have one to recommend that’s not listed here, drop me an email: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com.

Here’s this year’s list...

* British artist Julian Merrow-Smith has lived and worked in Provence for more 20 years. I think his work is exquisite and so do the thousands of people who follow his "Postcard from Provence" daily painting project. In 2020, he'll be offering six painting getaways with his wife Ruth Phillips, a writer and musician...but space is limited and some are already full. Workshops are available in the May poppy season, July for the lavender fields and in September and October when many think Provence is at its best. All materials and supplies are included.  The group stays in a lovely 14^th-century manor house in the countryside at the foot of Mont Ventoux.  Prices range from $2190 (for simple shared accommodation) to $4050 for deluxe master bedrooms, double occupancy; the single supplement is $500. Evening meals are accompanied by fine Côtes du Rhône wines and all meals are prepared by an award-winning Irish chef.  “Apart from delicious food and wine there are no frills to this workshop," Julian says. "We usually visit one of the local markets; otherwise the week is all about painting—talking, living and breathing it together. Our aim, above all, is to give you the experience of living the painter's life in the south of France." shiftinglight.com,  julian@shiftinglight.com. 

* The watercolor artist Tessa Baker, originally from London, is one of the most popular instructors in Provence, where she's lived full time since 1985. Tessa currently has space on the following trips: Provence in Spring (April 18-25); Venasque, Roussillon and Les Baux (June 20 -27, Sept 5-12, Sept 19-26) and Seville, Spain (Oct 10-17). "Painting is a joyful moment in time so I encourage students enjoy, laugh, have fun, create," she says. "It seems to work very well!" Provence guests stay in a 17th-century country manor--between St. Didier and Venasque--that’s been in the same family for 10 generations, set in the middle of vineyards, olive groves and cherry orchards, with Mont Ventoux in the distance. “It’s a perfect villa for a painting trip,” Tessa says. Day trips during the “Venasque, Roussillon...” class visit the Carrieres des Lumieres in Les Baux, the ochre cliffs of Roussillon (with a lesson at an old ochre-processing plant), paint in olive groves, and visit to local villages and markets. For the “Provence in Spring” trip guests stay in Lorgues, visiting the Gorges de Verdon, the nearby pottery village of Moustier Saint Maries, the medieval village of Tourtour and a modern-art sculpture park. Everyone loves the carriage ride with a huge cart horse named Volcon, only one of six in France. Meals are splendid picnics or are served at home, in the shade of Linden trees. The workshop chef is known for healthful, seasonal Mediterranean meals.  paintprovencewithtess.com, tessabakerart@gmail.com.

* The ArtisTTable retreat in May is already sold out but they’re offering a second Provence painting trip October 4 to 11. You'll visit and paint the sites around Arles that so inspired Vincent Van Gogh...and the sites around Aix and near Mont Sainte-Victoire that captivated Paul Cézanne for years. Your hosts will be Royce Deans and Tali Farchi of ArtisTTable Art Retreats; this is their fifth painting workshop in the area.  Along the way you'll hear fascinating tales from the lives of Van Gogh and Cézanne, while getting encouragement and instruction. "This trip will take your plein-air painting experience to a whole new level," the instructors say.  Cost: $2100 pp single, or $1950 pp if you register before April 30. artisttableonline.com, info@artisttableonline.com.

* The Atelier Provence & Barcelona Art Tour 2020 (June 27-July 8) combines a 7-day painting workshop in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence with a 4-day art-history tour in Barcelona. It is a great opportunity to paint in plein-air (lavender fields, ochre cliffs, Mont St. Victoire, etc.), to learn art history and art theory, to visit Barcelona’s fabulous architecture and art museums; and to enjoy famous Provencal and Catalan cuisine and wines.  Visit Cézanne’s studio, Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, the Picasso and the Miró Museums and more. The tour is sponsored by Walk The Arts, which has been hosting workshops in Italy, France, Spain and South America since 1997. Price: $2880 includes art instruction, 11-night double accommodation (7 in Provence, 4 in Barcelona), most meals, all ground transport including high-speed train Avignon to Barcelona and entry to all museums and sites. walkthearts.com, info@walkthearts.com.

* Fiona and Jean-Louis Diaz are an Australian-French couple, based in the historical village of Jouques, just 30 minutes north of Aix. They run Artelier Provence--a fine-art gallery and studio--offering one-day drawing and painting workshops as well as four-day retreats. Retreats include five nights lodging so you have time to experience village life in Provence. Lessons take place in both village and rural settings, in and around Jouques. Jean-Louis is an accomplished artist whose practice in Provence enables him to extend his passion for color and luminosity while exploring his passion for encaustic medium. This summer they’ll host two retreats. The first, Drawing and Painting, is June 16 to 19. The second, Painting with Oil Encaustic, is June 23 to 26. Other dates may also be available; see their site and inquire.  artelierprovence.com, artelierprovence@gmail.com.

  

* Jill Steenhuis is an Atlanta-born visual artist who has lived in Aix since 1980. She earned her BFA at Sweet Briar College and, following graduation, enrolled in The Leo Marchutz School of Painting and Drawing in Aix, which follows in the tradition of Cézanne. Jill works directly from nature, en plein-air. In addition to leading Cezanne and Van Gogh walking tours for American museums and art lovers, Jill offers week-long oil painting workshops in the Provencal countryside for all ability levels. Workshops are designed for both confirmed painters and beginners, focusing on experiencing nature through the senses and encouraging each student to "bring out his own inner poetry.” 2020 dates are May 22-30,  June 19-27 and Sept 11-19. Price: $4,900 double or triple; $5,250 single. This year Jill will also lead a number of two-day workshops while  on tour in the US. artinprovence.com, jillsteenhuis@gmail.com. 

* Workshops in France is running six painting trips in Provence in 2020, staying in three château-based locations. Retreats are uninstructed; workshops  have artist/instructors. Retreats (open to all media and levels) combine artistic immersion with daily painting sessions in private vineyards, small fishing ports, charming villages, markets, and on the Van Gogh trail in St Rémy. Click here for details. A 10-day retreat (June 24-July 4), in the Luberon near Aix, is designed for those who want to paint during lavender season; another  7-day retreat follows here July 12-18. Then there are four 10-day workshops with master instructors, in early May, June, and September.  Americans in Paris Paint Provence (May 6-15) will be hosted by five leading artists; everyone stays at Moulin de la Roque, an historic estate between St. Rémy and Avignon, with a mill, river and beautiful grounds. Guests learn from each artist, focusing on landscapes, figures, portrait painting, composition and more.  Later in May (May 24-June 2), Susan Lyon will teach portraits and figure painting at the same location, joined by painter Scott Burdick. A workshop with Rose Frantzen is Sept 16-25. Finally, Joseph Zbukvic, the Australian watercolorist, will host a workshop at another château near Avignon (Sept. 2-11).  Non-painting partners will find plenty to do and are welcome in all workshops and retreats. Day students and drop-ins are welcome, pending availability.  workshopsinfrance.com, julie@workshopsinfrance.com.

In the Languedoc/Occitanie

*At their Academy Studios Abroad, Tod Ramos and Kate Lovegrove lead workshops in a beautiful village in the Gard, not far from the Camargue, using their grand village house as home base. Offerings for 2020 include: * Tour de Horse (May 18-29), a master class on the fundamental anatomy of the horse and the principles of its movement and form. * The Lifesaver Course (June 21-July 4): drawing and painting the model from life, in movement and repose, for both nude and traditional portraiture. * Portrait Painting with Models (July 20-31): positioning and composition; background and lighting; engaging the sitter; drawing in different media and painting oils.  As with all the courses, color and pigment theory, preparation of drawing and painting media are included. * Generation Art (Aug 20-24) is a five-day holiday course for kids ages 6 to 14 and their parents. * Zen and the Art of Landscape Painting, with Hatha Yoga (Aug 31-Sept 11): paint and draw en plein air with tutoring in both topographical and natural landscapes; the course may also include interior painting and still life. Plus, there's yoga in the morning and evening.  academystudiosabroad.com, contact@academystudiosabroad.com.

* Painting in France is hosted by English artist Simon Roberts and his South African wife Monica. This year there’s a new flexible mix of 3, 5 and 8 day all-inclusive painting holidays, in May/June and September/October. Prices start $1285 pp,sharing a twin or double. Simon guides you through sketching and watercolor techniques in a variety of locations, rom Mediterranean lagoons and ports to ancient villages and vineyards. Groups are seven students max so there’s plenty of personal attention. Beginners are welcome and all equipment and materials are supplied. When you’re not being wined and dined in local restaurants, Monica, an excellent cook, prepares chic picnics among the vines and delicious meals from local suppliers in the couple's courtyard garden. painting-in-france.com, simon@painting-in-france.com.

* Sketching Holidays in southern France with Annette Morris take place in a variety of locations, from 3 to 7 nights. Ideal for single travelers, these short breaks are great if you’re new to sketching, or a more experienced watercolorist looking to loosen up your style. Annette is British but has lived and worked in France for 12 years; she's completely dedicated to helping her students discover French life like a local, while helping you learn to capture the essence of it in your sketchbook day to day. Workshops may include cooking, wine-tasting and private cruises on the Canal du Midi; special dates can be arranged for groups if you're traveling with friends. "My short-stay holidays take place in carefully selected B&Bs, private luxury apartments or château with private pools," Annette says. "Your holiday sketchbook will contain wonderful memories to treasure forever."  Amsketching.com, annette@sketchingfrance.com.

* Sketching for Foodies is hosted by Anne de Ravel, a food writer, cookbook author and former producer at Food Network in New York.  Through her company Saveur Languedoc, Anne (a native Languedocienne!) leads food-and-wine tours of this lovely region located to the south and west of Provence. The Languedoc is know for lush vineyards, richly historic cities, beautiful Mediterranean beaches, stunning mountain trails and, of course, the world-famous Canal du Midi. Anne returned from the US, to live here full time, in 2007.  Sketching for Foodies,  a 4-night holiday, adds joyful sketching sessions to Anne's popular mix of cooking classes, food and wine touring, tastings and more. Sketching is led by Annette Morris (see just above), while Anne takes care of the rest.  From your charming B&B in Quarante, you'll travel through some of the most-picturesque places and discover the area with an insider. You'll meet artisan producers and sample rustic traditional foods; you’ll lunch in restaurants loved by locals. And along the way, you'll become a skillful sketcher. Dates: June 14-18, October 7-11.  Price: From 605€ pp in a double. For info: click here or here or email to: deravelanne@gmail.com.

Photos: (1) Feeling the lavender love on a painting holiday with Workshops in France. (2) Yep, that's a real horse in the studio for an Academy Studios Abroad workshop. Meet him yourself in this year's Tour de Horse workshop in May.  (3, 4)  Two paintings by Julian Merrow-Smith: "November Roses" and "Clementines in a Blue Bowl." (5, 6) Julian's students stay in a Provençal manor house on 180 acres of vines and woodland at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Julian calls the location "an ideal place to relax and draw on your creative energy." (7-9) By artist Jill Steenhuis: "Platane Trees at Chateau des Alpilles." Jill lives in Aix and will teach three painting workshops this year. Jill's painting "Activity in the Port of Cassis." (10) Tessa Baker will host a number of workshops this year where students visit and paint the striking ochre cliffs in Roussillon. (11, 12) Two of Tessa's paintings. (13) Meals in Tessa's workshops are fresh, colorful, healthful and Mediterranean inspired. (14, 15) Sign on for a workshop with the ArtisTTable and you'll see Cezanne's studio in Aix and the typical "gardian's cabins" of the Camargue.  (16-18) Walk the Arts offers workshops that combine Provence and Spain. You'll paint at Cezanne's famous Mont St. Victoire, then zip off to Barcelona for the Boqueria food market, Gaudi's famous Sagrada Familia and more. (19) Fiona and Jean-Louis Diaz are an Australian-French couple based 30 minutes north of Aix. They run Artelier Provence and will host two four-night retreats this year. (20) A student in an Artelier Provence workshop. (21) Teaching color theory at Artelier Provence. (22-24) With Workshops in France: painting the hilltop village of Gordes, in St. Remy and in Cucuron. (25, 26) A poppy painting by instructor Jane Hunt, who taught this gang at Workshops in France in 2019. (27) Students at Academy Studios Abroad stay in this historic private home in Aubais, in the foothills of the Cevennes mountains. (28) Painting nudes with Academy Studios Abroad. (29) A visit to the Musee Fabre in Montpellier with Academy Studios Abroad. (30-33) Simon and Monica Roberts of Painting in France have lived and worked in the Languedoc since 2011. After breakfast, you may head to the ancient Mediterranean port of Marseillan and spend the morning sketching and painting. You'll stay in a renovated village house (perhaps this one) or in a local chateau. (34, 35) A sketch by Annette Morris, done as a workshop demo; here Annette teaches upside down so students can easily see her working. (36) Anne de Ravel (far right) organizes food and wine trips in the Languedoc. She's teamed up with Annette Morris to offer "Sketching for Foodies" twice this year. Anne previously worked for Food Network and the New York Times, before returning home to her native France.