Journées du Patrimoine is Next Weekend

It's that time again: The 32nd annual Journées du Patrimoine takes place this weekend, September 19 and 20, in cities and villages all over France. The program was created by the French Ministry of Culture in 1984 and has since spread all over Europe (where it's also called European Heritage Days). It's one of my favorite weekends of the year.

The idea is that thousands of historic sites, monuments, buildings, estates and domaines are open to the public for special weekend visits and events...along with many private sites that are normally, um, private. Most sites have a guide on hand leading tours and answering questions...and most (but not all) offer free entry. Some sites or events may require you to sign up in advance...but for the most part, you just show up. The website with all the participating venues is here but you'll do much better checking in with the Tourist Office or the tourism website of the village or city you want to visit. For example, the main Patrimoine website lists just eight participating sites in my village of St. Remy. But the village itself has published its own terrific guide and map featuring 21 participating sites...you can see it here (and a map is here). 

For other villages and cities in the South of France, here are some Patrimoine schedules I could find online: Aix, Arles, Marseille, Avignon, Carpentras/Mont Ventoux, Nimes, Uzes, Tarascon, Vaison la Romaine, Orange, the Vaucluse region, Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Cassis and St. Tropez. 

For others, here's a list of most of the Tourist Offices in Provence.

The main Patrimoine website in English is here and you can also download region-by-region schedules here. 

Finally, a bit of advice for those of you who speak little or no French: get a fluent friend to join you (offer to buy 'em lunch--that always works). While you can still enjoy the site itself--whatever it is--most of the narrations are in French only and learning from the experts on hand is a big part of the appeal. 

Vive le Patrimoine de France!

Photos: Get out there and explore! A few of the thousands of sites offering Patrimoine events include The Unterlinden Museum in Colmar (Alsace), the fantastical houses of Jacques-Emile Lecaron in Clamart, the Théâtre Antique d'Orange, La Cite Radieuse by Le Corbusier in Marseille, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the Cap Ferrat, the Roman Amphitheatre in Arles, the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, the recently re-opened museum Hotel du Sade in St. Remy, the Jewish Cemetery in St. Remy, the Maison du Riz in the Camargue, the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh in Arles, the Heliport of Paris (photo coutesy Nicolas Gauthier), The Chateau de Thouzan in Thouzan and of course, the Eiffel Tower.

English-Speaking Cancer Support in France

The good folks at the non-profit Cancer Support France have just launched a new association serving the Vaucluse, the Bouches du Rhône and the Gard departments of Southern France...and they've asked me to spread the word.

CSF supports all English speakers in France who are affected (directly or indirectly) by cancer. Their volunteers include highly trained "Active Listeners" who support, accompany, translate, visit and provide general help. Some are medical professionals, some are cancer patients or survivors...but many just want to help. There are also volunteers who assist with admin, fundraising and PR.

"We started in the Gard about a year ago, as part of CSF Languedoc," president Tim Forster tells me. "But seeing a need, we've separated from the Languedoc so we can better offer our services in Provence. There are 15 associations within CSF and these include four who cover much of Southern France. Provence has long been a gap and we need to fill it. 

“For our clients, a cancer diagnosis turns the world upside down," he continues. "For someone living in a foreign country, there's the added challenge of trying to manage their illness in another language. Our volunteers--many of them bilingual--offer vital emotional support, guide clients to essential information and provide practical assistance during times of crisis. Their training is ongoing and they operate in the strictest confidentiality to ensure fully professional service.”

Tim reached out to me with four goals in mind. First, to help build awareness among the English-speaking community, "so anyone who needs us can find us." Second, because he needs volunteers of all types for the new association.  Another goal is to raise funds through events and direct donations (to donate, click here) and finally, to let you all know about the group's upcoming inaugural meeting next month (info on that is below).

"Networking is the best way to get our message out," he says.  

To learn more about CSF nationwide and see a calendar of events, their website is here.

To learn more about CSF Provence Gard or to inquire about helping in any capacity, please contact Tim directly: +33 (0)4 66 72 71 60, tim.csfprovencegard@gmail.com.   

If you or someone you know needs cancer-related info or support, call the 24-hour CSF Provence Gard Helpline on +33 (0)4 66 81 18 58 and a coordinator will call you back promptly. Or, you can email: csf.provencegard@gmail.com. The National Helpline, serving other parts of France, is: +33 (0)8 10 24 02 00.

The new CSF Provence Gard Association will hold their inaugural meeting and coffee morning from 10 am to 1 pm on October 5th, at Mas de la Bousquette in Lussan (30580), near Uzes.  Everyone is welcome. To get there: locate the roundabout on the D 979 at Lussan, take the road towards Lussan and after 50 meters, you'll see the entrance signposted on the right.

Another Fine French Travel Book Giveaway!

Edwin Mullins was a young boy when he discovered Roman tile shards on a riverbank near his home in Sussex, England. This led to a lifelong obsession with Roman history and for years, he's been scrambling over and under the half-buried ancient Roman ruins of Provence with his eager dog, Star, and beleaguered wife, Anne. The results of these expeditions can be seen in his latest book, The Roman Provence Guide, where he shares his vast knowledge of both the known sites and hidden traces of this ancient empire. 

The 192-page Roman Provence Guide was designed to appeal to anyone interested in ancient Roman and French history, archaeology, travel and more. And Mullins' very-kind publisher, Interlink Books, has graciously offered me two copies to give away here. Details on entering appear below.

Although the Roman Empire was eventually vanquished, its impact on the world has never vanished of course. In Provence particularly, Julius Caesar'’s grandiose plans live on in countless ruined aqueducts, monuments, triumphal arches, roads, temples, amphitheaters, baths, ramparts and other feats of engineering and architecture. Part historical account, part traveler’s companion, The Roman Provence Guide puts in historical context Rome’'s 600-year rule of ancient Provence, which also included regions of the Pyrenees, the Alps, and the Rhône Valley. The guide also includes maps, black & white and color photos of the sites, a list of museums and visitor centers and a Further Reading List.

The Roman occupation of Provence (“Provincia” in Latin), lasted six centuries, beginning more than 100 years before the birth of Christ, and surviving until well after most of Europe had become Christian. Today the region remains richer in Roman monuments than any other place in the world, with vast amphitheaters, triumphal arches, paved roads and aqueducts spanning the countryside.

Provence owes its name to Julius Caesar, who described the region as “the Province of Rome.” It was then a much larger area, stretching westwards to include Languedoc and Roussillon as far as the Pyrenees, eastward to the Riviera and the Maritimes Alps, and northwards up the Rhône Valley as far as Lyon. This book covers much of that larger area while concentrating on present-day Provence and neighboring Languedoc, the heartlands of the former Roman colony. 

In the book, Mullins tells the story of how the Romans came to invade Provence, how they stayed to colonize it, and how they transformed Provençal cities into imitations of Rome. He relates how Emperor Constantine brought about the conversion of the Roman Empire to Christianity from his favorite city of Arles— and how the Romans were eventually driven out by the Visigoths.

The Roman Provence Guide features all the principal sites in the region as well as those rarely visited. It has separate chapters on triumphal arches, aqueducts, farming, city life, bridges and road-building, temples and shrines, theatres and amphitheaters. Another section considers the aftermath of Roman rule, the restoration of ancient ruins, and the debt we owe to the remarkable engineers who inspired the first great achievement in medieval church architecture known, appropriately, as “Romanesque.”

Mullins is a writer, journalist, filmmaker and the former art critic of London'’s Sunday Telegraph. His books include The Pilgrimage to Santiago, Avignon of the Popes, The Camargue, and the award-winning In Search of Cluny: God’s Lost Empire.  

The book is available directly from the publisher (click here or call US 800-238-5465), from Amazon and Barnes and Noble or in bookstores. But better yet, enter to win a copy by simply leaving a comment under ''comments'' below. Please be sure to leave your email address somewhere within the comment box or we won't be able to reach you; simply signing in with your website or Google account is not enough. The more creative your comment, the better. Bon Chance!

Michelin Star Chef Opens Casual ''Guingette''

Born and raised in Pennsylvania, Sharon deRham has been traveling the world since age 19. She has a B.S. and M.A. in Spanish Linguistics and has taught both Spanish and French.  An M.B.A. in Finance propelled her into the high-tech world of Silicon Valley, where she worked at Hewlett-Packard and Cisco. She then studied food and wine in France, Italy, Mexico, China, Vietnam and the Napa Valley.  From 2001 to 2005,  Sharon owned and operated Mostly French, an antique and pottery shop in Calistoga (Napa Valley). She now lives in Vaison-la-Romaine, where she works as private guide, specializing in food, wine, and history tours of Provence for up to 15 people (contact: sderham@sonic.net). Passionate about all things culinary, Sharon has become one of my best sources for what's happening, not just in Vaison but across the whole Northern Vaucluse region. She got in touch the other day to tell me about a fun new restaurant opening this weekend and of course I grilled her for all the info. This is what she sent...

When a ‘’guingette’’ opens in Provence, it’s not such big news. But when it’s owned by a Michelin-starred chef, that’s another story indeed. Raoul Reichrath, who--with his sommelier wife Flora--owns the one-star Grand Pre Restaurant and the Bistro Preface in Roaix, officially unveiled his newest spot last night. It's called Les Paillottes and it too is in Roaix, 10 minutes from Vaison-la-Romaine.

So what’s a guingette? It’s a very-casual, outdoor dining, drinking and dancing venue. The concept developed several centuries ago outside Paris, to escape the taxes levied in the city.  It then spread to the countryside throughout much of the rest of France. Today’s guinguettes are open-air establishments serving up food, drink and sometimes music for dancing. The atmosphere is fun and relaxing--perfect for summer vacations. You’ll see them all over Provence, though not with the same pedigree as this one!

I expect the food, though casual, will be excellent given that Raoul is considered by many to be the best chef in the region.  At Les Paillottes he’ll be keeping to tradition by serving a simple selection of grilled foods, salads and desserts. First courses  (€8) will run along the lines of ceviche, fish soup and brandade (a Provencal cod and potato dish). Main courses  (€12-16) will include grilled lamb, beef, pork, chicken, salmon or squid; they’ll be served, most likely, with salad, fries, and sauce. Desserts (5€) will change weekly. Wine will come from seven local Roaix wineries and will be served by the carafe (pichet) or bottle….the selection includes the delicious Pique-Basse, which has earned stellar ratings. On Friday and Saturday nights, a fixed-price, three-course dinner is offered for €25.

Dining at Les Paillottes is on an umbrella- and tree-shaded patio, making this the perfect venue for a casual summer meal. In July and August there will be music and dancing on Friday and Saturday nights.

To get there: Roaix is 1/2 hour northeast of Orange, 20 minutes north of Gigondas. Les Paillottes is located on the D975 (the Route de Vaison), just outside the village. If you take the D975 from Vaison towards Roaix you’ll see a sign on the left side of the road. It’s about 10 minutes or less from Vaison. Open daily, except for lunch on Monday. Hours are noon to 2 pm and 7 pm to 10 pm. Reservations accepted. Phone: 04 90 36 16 34. GPS: 44◦14’40”   5◦1’22” Email: info@legrandpre.com

Photos: Top photo by Sharon deRham. Photo of Raoul and Flora by Julie Mautner. Want to reach Sharon? Email her at: sderham@sonic.net

What's Up This Weekend in Provence?

Classical Music in Eygalieres

American flutist  Julie Scolnik, who spends her summers in Eygalieres, will give her fifth annual recital in the local church, Eglise St Laurent, this Sunday, July 17, at 7  p.m. Julie offers a free concert for the village every summer "as a way of giving back to this most beautiful corner of the world, my home away from home." Julie and Parisian pianist Aurelien Pontier will play works by Bach, Czerny, Doppler, Elgar...and the formidable Franck Violin Sonata in a beautiful transcription for flute. For more info: julscol@me.com or 04 37 40 61 86. See you in church!

Jazz Under the Stars in St. Remy

As a prelude to the St. Remy Jazz Festival (September 15 to 18), a concert called Jazz Under the Stars (Jazz sous les Etoiles) will be held tonite, Friday July 15 at 8:30 p.m. in the gardens of the Hotel de Sade. Food will be served from 8 p.m. onwards. For all the info, click here or email (jazzasaintremy@gmail.com) or call 04-90-94-68-35.  Tickets are 16€ per person or 13€ for subscribers.

Organ Recital in St. Remy

The St. Remy Organ Festival (Festival Organa 2011) continues with a recital on Saturday July 16 at 6:30 p.m. Pascal Marsault, professor at CRR Toulon Provence Mediterranee, will perform on the church's massive organ built in 1923, with three keyboards and 62 stops. All Organ Festival concerts are at the Collégiale Saint-Martin (the big church) in St. Remy and this concert is free but donations will be accepted. For info, click here.


A Party to Celebrate APaRT at the Gorgeous Dalmeran

As part of the ongoing multi-village international contemporary art festival called APaRT, there will be a reception  Sunday July 17  to celebrate the group show at Domaine de Dalmeran in St.-Etienne-du-Gres. The artists are Corine Ferté, Fred Gautron, Tony Soulie, Barbara Segal and Claude Viallat.  The event begins at 7 p.m. and all are welcome.  Another large ApArt event, called Nuit de la Performance, will be held Thursday, July 21st in Tarascon. Think of it as a big pub crawl through many venues (including the castle, two chapels and the Musee Souleiado), with performance art, film projections and more. It begins at 5:30 p.m. and runs until just before midnight. APaRT began July 7 and runs through August 17. For more events, shows and info, click here. (Above: APaRT poster and Cervus Elaphus © Corine Ferté, 2011).


Modern Dance in Vaison

The 16th annual international festival of dance called Vaison Danses runs until July 26. On Saturday July 16, Sylvie Guillem and Akram Khan will perform "Sacred Monsters." Sylvie is a Paris-bron prima ballerina known for immense strength and lyricism while the London-based Akram "dazzles with astonishing speed, precision and power." Sacred Monsters explores the boundaries between ballet and kathak, with a live music ensemble featuring cirtuoso cellist Philip Sheppard. All performances held in the Theatre Antique in Vaison-la-Romaine. For tickets and complete festival info, click here or call 04-90-28-74-74.


Following the Arman Trail...and a Bear Show!

If you haven't seen Arman at Les Baux, this would be a great weekend to do it. Until October 16, Les Baux is shining the spotlight on the French artist Armand Fernandez, better known as Arman. He was born in Nice in 1928 and died in New York in 2005. In fall 2010, the Centre Pompidou staged a major show of his work, which then traveled to the Tinguely (Basel). For this show in Les Baux, the atmosphere of Arman's home and workplace are reinterpreted in various locations, displaying how the artist lived and worked. In the evening, his work is projected onto the walls of the medieval village (until October 16). Passes to the Arman trail are 7€ adults; 5€ age 7 to 17; under 7 free. For info: call 04-90-54-34-39 or tourisme@lesbauxdeprovence.com or click here. This weekend in addition to the Arman trail, there's a special "medieval animation" at the Chateau of Les Baux. Called The Bear Trainer, the show tells the story of the special relationship between a man and two bears: a  brown bear weighing 250 kg and Valentin, a black bear. The show runs until July 17 and there's a combined ticket for the Arman trail and chateau entrance. For more info, click here. Every Friday evening until August 15, the Musée Yves Brayer, the Fondation Louis Jou and the castle will be open untill 10 p.m. 

British and American Blues in Antibes

On Saturday night July 16th in Antibes, enjoy an evening of British and American Blues with John Phil Wayne, who plays guitar, bass and accompaniment. A former band member for Memphis Slim, John Lee Hooker, David Bowie and others, John will be joined by the U.S bluesman Benny Ross (who has played with Miles Davis, Luther Allison, Marcus Miller and Dizzy Gillespie) on vocals and sax. Doors open at 8.30 p.m.; concert runs from 9:30 to 11 p.m.  Entry is €17 and includes one drink. Parking is free in the yard. After the show, there will be a DJ and dancing until 2:30 a.m. The venue is the Top Ten Concert Club, 2047, Route De Nice, Antibes, 04 93 74 78 14.

PLUS, THESE FESTIVALS ARE ONGOING: 

The Festival d'Aix until July 25...

The Festival d'Avignon until July 26...
The OFF Festival of Avignon until July 31st...
The Jazz a Juan Festival from July 14 to 24...
The Festival de Lacoste (music and theater) July 15 to Aug 5...
The National Ballet of Marseille through July 25...
The Festival de Nimes through July 23...
The Choregies d'Orange Opera season runs through August 2...
The Rencontres d'Arles Photo Festival through September 18th.
Enjoy!!

Provence in Focus

Lee Warren is a U.K.-based landscape and "natural world" photographer who shoots for magazines, books and ad campaigns. I came across some photos he took in the South of France late this summer and just had to share. Lee tells me: "The shots were taken August just gone. This was our first visit to Provence but we're already planning to return next year. It really is a stunning part of the world!"  Click each photo to see it larger and in much better detail. For more of Lee's work, visit his website here. To reach Lee directly, email: fdiskformat@sky.com

Top two photos: Lac Saint Croix. Center: Castellane. Bottom two photos: Vaison-la-Romaine.

Where Would Patricia Wells Eat?

Where should we eat in Provence? As a food writer living in the South of France, it's the one question I'm asked more than any other. So this week I turned to none other than Patricia Wells for help.  

Patricia is a journalist, author and cooking teacher, an American who has lived in Paris since 1980. Her groundbreaking "Food Lover’s Guide to Paris," which debuted in 1984, was hailed as “the book that broke the secret code to Paris.” For 25 years Patricia was the restaurant critic for The International Herald Tribune and is the only woman--and only foreigner--to serve as restaurant critic for a French publication, the newsweekly L’Express. Patricia is the author of 11 books including the memoir "We’ve Always Had Paris…and Provence," which she wrote with her husband Walter, the former executive editor of the Herald Tribune.  In 2011, Patricia will publish two books: "Salad as a Meal" and "Simply Truffles." 

For several weeks each year, Patricia and Walter open their 18th-century Provençal home (in Vaison la Romaine) to a small number of participants hungry to soak up the food, wine, and culture of the region. The five-day program includes hands-on cooking classes (using as much home-grown produce as possible), plus guided visits to markets, vineyards, shops, and local restaurants. Patricia also offers a truffle class in January and classes in Paris as well. 

Here Patricia shares some of her current favorite restaurants, none of them more than 30 minutes from her village of Vaison. Bon App! 

BRIN D’OLIVIER. A lovely spot in the center of town, warming décor and fireplace in winter, beautiful terrace in summer. Excellent modern food and a truffle menu in winter. 4, rue de Ventoux, Vaison.  Restaurant-Lebrindolivier.com or 04 90 28 74 79. Closed Wednesday. 

GAJUELA. New, with a simple good menu, great lamb and veggies, nice wine list and terrace. In Le Barroux (past Entrechaux and Malaucene). 04 90 62 36 94. Dinner only. Closed Sunday and Monday. 

LE GRAND PRE and bistro PRÈFACE. A favorite. Great ambiance, terrace, delightful with a great wine list. On the Route de Vaison in Roaix. legrandpre.com, 04 90 46 18 12. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. 

LES ABEILLES. Great terrace, wonderful food, good wine list. The owners are Marlies and Johannes Sailer. It's at #4, Route de Vaison in Sablet. abeilles-sablet.com or  04 90 12 38 96. 

LE PONT DE L’ORME.  A nice inexpensive restaurant in a restored 200-year-old farmhouse in Malaucene. (Drive towards Malaucene and just after a row of trees, before the roundabout, turn right when you see the sign to Suzette.)  Lepontdelorme.com or 04 90 46 17 50. 

L’OUSTALET in center of Gigondas. New owners and a great terrace view. restaurant-oustalet.fr or 04 90 12 30 03. 

LE TOURNE AU VERRE. A nice wine bar...simple but good. On the Route de Sainte Cécile in Cairanne, about a 15-minute drive from Vaison. letourneauverre.com or 04 90 30 72 18. 

LA BAGUETTE (VIETNAMESE). A huge menu, inexpensive but good. In Vaison la Romaine on the Cours Taulignan, the main street perpendicular to the Post Office. 04 90 36 15 04. 

LE PRE DU MOULIN. Owners Caroline and Pascal Alonso have one Michelin star. Good food, pleasant setting. Route de Saint Cecile les Vignes in Sérignan du Comtat. predumoulin.com or 04 90 70 14 55. Closed Monday lunch. 

LE SAINT HUBERT. A very old-fashioned family bistro with great truffle omelets and a good wine list. In Entrechaux. restaurantsthubert.free.fr or 04 90 46 00 05. 

LE TEMPS DE VIVRE. New, with wonderful food, bargain menus and a good wine list. In Le Farjons, on the outskirts of Uchaux.  For the website, click here or call 04 90 40 66 00. Closed Wednesday. 

VINOE & CO. A wonderful wine bar in the center of Avignon, at 31, rue Saint Jean le Vieux. vinoe-co.com [Editors note: Michel Granier has closed Vinoe and will announce his new plans soon.] 

For more info on Patricia Wells, her books and her classes, click here.  

Photos: Patricia and Walter Wells; the memoir they co-wrote; Le Saint Hubert, one of Patricia's favorite nearby spots. 

Road Scholar

Ron van Dijk has led bike trips in France for more than 30 years, first with Euro-Bike Tours and now with Austin Adventures - Adventure Travel (which purchased Euro-Bike Tours in 2008). The Billings, Montana-based company was named the No. 1 tour operator in the world by the readers of Travel+Leisure in 2009; they're known for very personal service and first-rate guides. (Among their 47 adventures for the year ahead are eight Provence trips: four biking and four hiking.) Because Ron knows practically every bike route in Provence, I asked him to share one of his all-time favorite one-day rides with us...and here's what he graciously sent. It's a 43 KM (26 mile) loop, starting and ending in Vaison-la-Romaine. Ron says this ride offers rolling terrain, stunning views of nearby Mont Ventoux, small roads and few cars...and that it's at its best from April to June or in September and October. If you have questions or would like details and a map, Ron's email appears at the end of this post. Off you go!

Vaison has only 6000 inhabitants, but it’s a vibrant little town with two sections: the commercial part with typical French delicatessen stores, many restaurants to choose from and a bustling market on Tuesday morning. Oh…and don’t forget to visit the remains of the Roman town. Across the river, Ouvèze is the medieval upper town, built against a hill. It's from here that the bike route begins, by crossing the one-arched 2000-year old Roman bridge.  

We turn right after crossing this bridge and now follow signs to St. Marcellin. In this peaceful village we turn left, after which quiet country roads lead us via St. Romain-en-Viennois to the top of the hill in Faucon. Definitely visit Faucon’s quaint center and discover the old stone washing place (still used by some!), the little square and the narrow streets. The village is surrounded by vineyards which are especially pretty in the fall. Don’t hesitate to pick a few grapes. Délicieux! 

So far, we’ve mostly gone gently uphill. Now comes the reward: after we turn right in Faucon, we are treated to a superb downhill. After crossing an old stone bridge over the river Ouvèze we turn left towards Mollans for 5 KM, a perfect village for a morning coffee at the café by the side of the river. Park your bike and go for a stroll. 

Back on our bikes again, we return the same way along the river for 5 KM and turn left towards the village of Entrechaux. When you reach the monument in Entrechaux, it’s time for your next stop. On foot, you could climb the “Montée du Château” to reach the castle ruins with nice views. Also at this monument is the Restaurant l’Ancienne Poste, a very pleasant spot with home cooking and an outside terrace. The local ‘vin de la maison’ may slow you down, but it’s earthy and goes well with the daube (beef stew in a rich wine-laden broth) cooked with olives. After lunch, do it the French way: 'un petit café’ should get you going again! The caffeine comes in handy on the hills between here and Malaucène. 

Along the way, maybe you'll want to visit the winery Domaine Champ Long, whose prized wines are made mostly from Grenache and Syrah grapes. Béatrice, Christian or Jean-Christophe Gély will be glad to introduce you to their art of wine making. Maybe buy a bottle for after the ride? 

Now we proceed to Malaucène, a lively town and hub for the ‘real’ cyclists, namely those brave ones who climb Mont-Ventoux from here. This is Provence’s sacred mountain, often a stage of the Tour de France. Have an Orangina on one of the terraces, give your legs a rest on a chair, and everyone will admire you, thinking you did the 14-mile climb to the summit! By the way, the bike shop in the upper part of town sells Mont Ventoux bike jerseys. 

As you get closer to Vaison-la-Romaine, turn left and climb the challenging 2 KM uphill to Crestet perched above you. Another gem of a village, and fantastic views of the surrounding hills and the Ouvèze valley. 

Íf you stay on this side of the river, pretty soon you’ll reach the old Roman bridge again. Voilà. Fini!  

Looking for a place to stay? Hotel le Beffroi is situated in the medieval upper town. It consists of two charming houses dating back to the 16th and 17th century, with a beautiful terraced garden. Each room is different and has kept its old character. Ask for a room with a view of the valley. 

Or, if you’ve got something special to celebrate (how about ‘la vie’?!), make a reservation at the Restaurant le Moulin à l’Huile in Vaison, where chef Robert Bardot serves a Michelin-starred dinner in a former oil mill on the banks of the Ouvèze, only 100 yards from the Roman bridge. Let’s make that a Chateuneuf-du-Pape and splurge! 

My favorite month for this ride is October, when the vines start to turn color and the light has a silver touch. July and August can be a bit hot, so don't forget lots of water. Bonne route!  

*Note: For Provence or France biking questions, a more detailed description of this route or a route map: ron@austinlehman.com. 

For independent travelers, the following spots, all in Vaison-la-Romaine, rent bicycles: Mag 2 Roues, Cours Taulignan, Tel 04 90 28 80 46 (Tues-Sat) Cycles Chave, 10 rue des Ormeaux, Tel 04 07 89 45 51 (Mon-Sat) Intersport, Route de Nyon, Tel. 04 90 36 24 01 (Mon-Sat).