Showing posts with label SPORTS AND ADVENTURE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SPORTS AND ADVENTURE. Show all posts

Monday, July 7, 2025

River Kayaking in Provence 2025



River kayaking in Provence is super easy...a fabulous way to while away a few hours, get deliciously cool, have a swim if you want one and see some fantastic scenery. 

If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are often staffers on the river to help and the kayaks are very open. Meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped. Our rivers are relatively free of obstacles, shallow and generally slow flowing. I encourage many of my clients to give it a go and no one has told me they didn't love it! On a hot day, it's just heaven.

You can kayak (and canoe and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), and also on the Durance River, in the Southern Luberon. But whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (just 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue). You can can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias, a super-fun way to experience the 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard

Keep in mind the four places mentioned above (the Sorgue, the Gardon, the Durance and the Rhône) are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place, I'd love to know! 

As the season goes on, the outfitters get extremely busy so you should definitely reserve at least a day or two ahead, if not more. You'll find the details on everything below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE IN THE LUBERON

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in Isle sur la Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is a great way to spend the afternoon. Then again, it's great fun any day, morning or afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus (usually with disco music blasting, but in a good way). There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple reasons but either is fine! Both outfitters sell snacks (cold drinks, ice cream, etc.), have bathrooms and offer plenty of parking.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group but you don’t really have to. The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling. Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly and have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both companies give you a watertight container for your stuff and life preserver vests.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended.

Canoe Evasion: 2025 prices:  €26 pp adults; €20 for students with student card, €13 for kids under 14. Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €22 each, students pay €20 each with student card, kids (6-14) pay €13. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. Minimum age is six and kids must be able to swim at least 25 meters and submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water). Open every day from May 15 to September 30 (but closed the third weekend in September). Open daily from 9 am to 3:30 pm, with departures every 40 mins or so. Bookings can be made by phone (+33 (0)4 90 38 26 22) or online (canoe-evasion.com). 

Kayak Vert. 2025 prices:  €27 pp adults 17+, €22 for young people (13-16), €14 for kids (6-12). For groups of 15 or more, please inquire. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters. Payment is by credit card only (but no Amex). Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations by phone ( +33 (0) 4 66 22 80 76) or online (kayakvert.com).

A Bit About Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, it's truly a gorgeous site to see. Actually its pretty gorgeous all the time.

In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (As it turns out they weren’t even close: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot here easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has a great museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies based on the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants right on or near the river and some cute shops.

Not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that families love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON 

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias, between Uzes and the Pont du Gard. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fantastic way to experience this 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc. The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue River, the outfitters bring you back by bus. Reservations aren't required but they're definitely recommended and booking is online only. In high season definitely reserve at least a few days before.   

Canoe Colliascanoe-collias.com, or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32. Prices for 2025: €27 for adults, €20 for teens (13-17), €15 for kids (6-12).

Kayak Vert Collias/Pont du Gardkayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com. Prices for 2025:  €27 for adults 17+, €22 for teens (13-16) and €14 for kids (6-12).

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Operated by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak, also known as Canoe Kayak Vaucluse) rather than a private company, this experience is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor. I've never kayaked here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet (aka the Pont d'Avignon) wouldn't be great fun.  Kayak rentals in July/August are by the half hour: 30 minutes is €8 pp, 60 minutes is €12 pp, 90 minutes is €16 pp. Kids prices (ages 7 to 12) are slightly less. Open daily from 2 pm to 6:30 including holidays, from 5 July to 29 August. They also rent canoes and stand-up paddleboards.

Individual paddlers can go out every afternoon in July and August. Those who do tend to potter around the famous bridge, perhaps traveling one km or so in either direction. There's always a staffer on a jet ski on hand to help if needed. Or, there's the guided “Descente” activity every afternoon, where you'll go 8 km with a mixed group.

Groups (7 people or more) can canoe every afternoon of the year when it's safe to do so. A bilingual tour guide can be arranged to accompany your group but this must be arranged in advance, at an extra fee. 

There are also three “river discovery tours” in July and August...check the website closer to July for details. 

Despite the Rhône being so wide and big, it ranges from knee-deep to 8 meters or so in this particular area. There’s very little danger as you're not allowed to get out of the canoe (unlike on the Gardon where you can pull over to swim, picnic, etc.). This outfitter also welcomes wheelchair users (you'll be lifted out of your wheel chair, helped with a special apparatus and seated in the canoe.) And dogs are welcome! 

Please note this outfitter is on the Ile de la Barthelasse, the island in the middle of the Rhône, adjacent to Avignon. If you're driving, there's plenty of nearby parking. If you're walking from Avignon, they're 10 minutes from the Port de l'Oulle on the Avignon side of the River. 

Questions? Call +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73 or +33 (0)6 51 60 13 59. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm and can be reached at: +33 (0)4 28 70 27 27.  Canoe-Vaucluse.fr contact@canoe-vaucluse.fr

KAYAKING ON THE DURANCE IN THE SOUTHERN LUBERON

Another outfitter I recently discovered is AFDA Canoe, which offers canoeing and kayaking on the Durance River in the Southern Luberon. An 8 km route takes you from Cadenet to Lauris (75 minutes) while an 18 km course links Puy Sainte Reparade to Lauris (three hours). They offer canoes for 2 or 3 people...and kayaks for more experienced paddlers. This one is on my summer to-do list for sure...I can't wait to kayak the Durance! 

Photos: (1) A Sunday on the Sorgue with my peeps.  (2, 3) Kayaking at the Pont du Gard and on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert. (4) The staffers at these kayak places tend to be young, super helpful and fun.  (5, 6) Kayaking on the Rhone at Avignon. (7) The famous source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, photo courtesy of TheLuberon.com. (8) Chilling on the Sorgue, photo courtesy of Canoe Evasion. 

Friday, June 7, 2024

River Kayaking in Provence 2024


River kayaking in Provence is super easy...a fabulous way to while away a few hours, get deliciously cool, have a swim if you want one and see some fantastic scenery. 

If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are staffers on the river to help and the kayaks are very open. Meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped. Our rivers are relatively free of obstacles, shallow and generally slow flowing. I encourage many of my clients to give it a go and no one has told me they didn't love it! On a hot day it's just heaven.

You can kayak (and canoe and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), and also on the Durance River, in the Southern Luberon. But whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (just 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue). You can can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias, a super-fun way to experience the 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard

Keep in mind the four places mentioned above (the Sorgue, the Gardon, the Durance and the Rhône) are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place, I'd love to know! 

As the season goes on, the outfitters get extremely busy so you should definitely reserve at least a day or two ahead, if not more. You'll find the details on everything below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE IN THE LUBERON

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from Isle sur la Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in Isle sur la Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is a great way to spend the afternoon. Then again, it's great fun any day, morning or afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus (usually with disco music blasting, but in a good way). There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple reasons but either is fine! If you go with Kayak Vert, there's sometimes a wait at the beginning of the route where you have to go over a dam--and the dam itself can be a bit scary for first timers--but there's always someone there to help. Both outfitters sell snacks (cold drinks, ice cream, etc.), have bathrooms and off offer lots of parking.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group but you don’t really have to. The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling on the river banks. And don't miss the rope swing! Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly and have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both companies give you a watertight container for your stuff and life preserver vests.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended.

Canoe Evasion: 2024 prices:  €26 pp adults; €13 for kids under 14. Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €22 each, kids (6-14) pay €13. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. There’s no minimum age per se, but the company prefers kids be five or older; they must be able to swim at least 25 meters and submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water). Open every day from May 15 to September 30 (but closed the third weekend in September). Open daily from 9 am to 3:30 pm, with departures every 40 mins or so. Bookings must be made by phone: +33 (0)4 90 38 26 22  or online: canoe-evasion.com

Kayak Vert. 2024 prices:  €25 pp adults, €13 for kids (6-12). For groups of 15 or more, please inquire. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters. Payment is by credit card only (but no Amex). Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations by phone:  +33 (0) 4 66 22 80 76 or online: kayakvert.com.

A Bit About Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, it's truly a gorgeous site to see...actually its pretty gorgeous all the time.

In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (As it turns out they weren’t even close: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot here easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has a great museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies based on the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants right on or near the river and some cute shops.

Not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that families love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON 

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias, between Uzes and the Pont du Gard. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fantastic way to experience this 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc. The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue River, the outfitters bring you back by bus. Reservations aren't required but they're definitely recommended and booking is online only. In high season definitely reserve at least a few days before.   

Canoe Colliascanoe-collias.com, or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32. Prices for 2023: €25 for adults, €19 for teens (13-17), €13 for kids (6-12).

Kayak Vert Collias/Pont du Gardkayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com. Prices for 2023:  €25 for adults, €20 for teens (13-17) and €13 for kids (6-12).

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Operated by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak, also known as Canoe Kayak Vaucluse) rather than a private company, this experience is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor. I've never kayaked here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet (aka the Pont d'Avignon) wouldn't be great fun. Kayak rentals in July/August are by the half hour: 30 minutes is €8 pp, 60 minutes is €12 pp, 90 minutes is €16 pp. Kids prices (ages 7 to 12) are slightly less. Open daily from 2 pm to 6:30 including holidays. They also rent canoes and stand-up paddleboards.

Individual paddlers can go out every afternoon in July and August. Those who do tend to potter around the famous bridge, perhaps traveling one km or so in either direction. There's always a staffer on a jet ski on hand to help if needed. Or, there's the guided “Descente” activity every afternoon, where you'll go 8 km with a mixed group.

Groups (7 people or more) can canoe every afternoon of the year when it's safe to do so. A bilingual tour guide can be arranged to accompany your group but this must be arranged in advance, at an extra fee. 

There are also three “river discovery tours” in July and August...check the website closer to July for details. 

Despite the Rhône being so wide and big, it ranges from knee-deep to 8 meters or so in this particular area. There’s very little danger as you're not allowed to get out of the canoe (unlike on the Sorgue or Gardon where you can pull over to swim, picnic, etc.). This outfitter also welcomes wheelchair users (you'll be lifted out of your wheel chair, helped with a special apparatus and seated in the canoe.) Dogs are also allowed!

Please note this outfitter is on the Ile de la Barthelasse, the island in the middle of the Rhône, adjacent to Avignon. If you're driving, there's plenty of nearby parking. If you're walking from Avignon, they're 10 minutes from the Port de l'Oulle on the Avignon side of the River. 

Questions? Call +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73 or +33 (0)6 51 60 13 59. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm and can be reached at: +33 (0)4 28 70 27 27.  Canoe-Vaucluse.fr contact@canoe-vaucluse.fr

KAYAKING ON THE DURANCE IN THE SOUTHERN LUBERON

Another outfitter I recently discovered is AFDA Canoe, which offers canoeing and kayaking on the Durance River in the Southern Luberon. An 8 km route takes you from Cadenet to Lauris (75 minutes) while an 18 km course links Puy Sainte Reparade to Lauris (three hours). They offer canoes for 2 or 3 people...and kayaks for more experienced paddlers. This one is on my summer to-do list for sure...I can't wait to kayak the Durance! 

Photos: (1, 2) Kayaking at the Pont du Gard and on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert.  (3,4) Kayaking on the Rhone at Avignon. (5) The famous source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, photo courtesy of TheLuberon.com. (6) Chilling on the Sorgue, photo courtesy of Canoe Evasion. 


Monday, August 14, 2023

River Kayaking in Provence 2023

While the days dwindle down to a precious few (as Willie Nelson says) and back-to-school lurks just around the corner, Provence is still crazy crowded...and hot! In fact, they're saying that this will be the hottest week of the year in France. River kayaking is a fabulous way to while away a few hours, get deliciously cool, have a swim if you want one and see some amazing scenery. Luckily, river kayaking in Provence is super easy and the local outfitters will be open for at least another month or two. I encourage many of my clients to try it and no one has told me they didn't love it. Get out there!

You can kayak (and stand-up paddleboard) on the Rhône from Avignon (with views of the ramparts, the Pont St. Benezet and the 14th-century Palais des Papes), but whenever I get the chance, I love kayaking on the River Sorgue, from the village of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse in the Luberon. You can also kayak on the River Gardon from Collias, a fantastic way to experience the 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard

Another outfitter I've just learned about is AFDA Canoe, which offers canoe/kayaking on the Durance River, from the village of Lauris in the Southern Luberon. An 8 km route takes you from Cadenet to Lauris (75 minutes) while an 18 km course links Puy Sainte Reparade to Lauris (three hours). Can't wait to kayak the Durance! 

If you've never kayaked before, not to worry! You'll get a short tutorial, there are usually staffers on the river to help (at least on the Sorgue there are), the kayaks are very open (meaning, on the off chance that you tip, you're not trapped) and these are not fast-running rivers. Below you'll find the details on everything.

But the four places mentioned above (the Sorgue, the Gardon, the Durance and the Rhône) are by no means the only places for kayaking in Provence; you can do it in the Camargue, at the Gorges du Verdon and in sea kayaks up and down Mediterranean Coast. If you have a favorite kayak place and want to share the info, please leave a comment below.

KAYAKING ON THE SORGUE

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is 15 minutes from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and if you hit the big Sunday market or smaller Thursday market there (in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue), kayaking from Fontaine is a great way to spend the afternoon. Then again, it's great fun any day, morning or afternoon. It’s an easy trip (about five miles) on clear, cool shallow water and you see lots of lovely, lush countryside. You leave your car in Fontaine and they bring you back by bus (usually with disco music blasting, but in a good way). There are two companies that do it: Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. Both are outside town with big signs so they’re easy to find. I prefer Canoe Evasion for a couple small reasons but either is fine! If you go with Kayak Vert, there's sometimes a wait at the beginning of the route where you have to go over a dam but there's always someone there to help. Both outfitters have small snack bars (cold drinks, ice cream, etc.), bathrooms and lots of parking.

With Kayak Vert, you can go at your own pace; with Canoe Evasion you’re sort of encouraged to stay with a group of boats but you don’t really have to.  The trip takes 2 to 2.5 hours and there’s a little break in the middle for swimming or just chilling on the river banks. And don't miss the rope swing! Whether you swim or not you’ll definitely get wet so plan accordingly and have a beach towel with you. Also, definitely wear water shoes or grippy sandals because there may be a few places where you have a little walk on slippery rocks. 

Both companies give you a watertight container for your stuff and life preserver vests...and there's staff here and there on the river to help if you need it.

Here are the two outfitters for kayaking the Sorgue and reservations are definitely recommended.

Canoe Evasion: 2023 prices:  €26 pp adults; €13 for kids under 14. Groups of 10 or more: adults pay €20 each, kids (6-14) pay €13. Payment is by cash, French check or credit card. There’s no minimum age per se, but the company prefers kids be five or older; they must be able to swim at least 25 meters and submerge themselves (meaning, not panic if they go under water).  Open every day from May 15 to September 30 (but closed the third weekend in September).  Open daily from 9 am to 3:30 pm, with departures every 40 mins or so. Bookings must be made by phone: +33 (0)4 90 38 26 22  or online:  canoe-evasion.comcontact@canoe-evasion.net.

Kayak Vert. 2023 prices:  €25 pp adults, €13 for kids (6-12). For groups of 15 or more, please inquire. Kayak Vert’s age minimum is six and kids must be able to swim 25 meters. Payment is by credit card only (but no Amex). Open May 15 to October 15. Reservations by phone:  +33 (0) 4 66 22 80 76 or online at kayakvert.com.

A Bit About Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is an interesting village so leave some time before or after kayaking to explore. This pretty little town (population 600 or so) is best known for its deep-water source or spring at the foot of a steep cliff 230 meters high. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth largest in the world; it's where the Sorgue River begins and when the water is high and running strong, it's truly a gorgeous site to see...actually its pretty gorgeous all the time.

In 1946, Jacques Cousteau and another diver were almost killed searching for the bottom of the spring, at about 100 meters down. (As it turns out they weren’t even close: the bottom is at 308 meters.) The spring is the only exit point of a subterranean basin that collects water from Mont Ventoux, the Vaucluse Mountains and Lure Mountain. People have lived in the area since Neolithic times (you know, back when you could still find a parking spot here easily). Archaeological digs have turned up more than 1600 coins from the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD. 

Fontaine has an interesting museum in an old paper mill (with a cool shop selling all types of paper products, diaries, puzzles, handmade books, stationary and other goodies based on the same theme), a museum about Petrarch and one filled with Santons (traditional Provencale figurines). Plus, the village has plenty of cafes and restaurants right on or near the river and some cute shops.

Not far from Canoe Evasion is a "parc accrobranche" that families love. This is one of those ropes courses where you swing from trees on zip lines and such. It's called La Passerelle des Cîmes and friends who’ve been say everyone loves it...all ages. As you approach Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, you’ll see the signs.

KAYAKING ON THE GARDON

To kayak the Gardon River and see the Pont du Gard, the two main outfitters are Canoe Collias and Kayak Vert; both leave from the town of Collias, between Uzes and the Pont du Gard. You can keep the kayak all day if you like but most people like the basic two-hour paddle, taking them 8 km up to and under the Pont du Gard. What a fantastic way to experience this 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All along the river there are little beaches and places to picnic, swim, sunbathe, etc.  The two-hour time frame is calculated on paddling from Collias to the Pont du Gard non-stop, but you can keep the kayak as long as you like for the same price. As they do on the Sorgue River, the outfitters bring you back by bus. Reservations aren't required but they're definitely recommended and booking is online only. In high season definitely reserve at least a few days before.   

Canoe Colliascanoe-collias.com, or +33 (0)4 66 22 87 20 or +33 (0)6 23 65 51 32. Prices for 2023: €25 for adults, €19 for teens (13-17), €13 for kids (6-12).

Kayak Vert Collias/Pont du Gardkayakvert.com or +33 (0)4 66 22 80 76, contact@kayakvert.com. Prices for 2023:  €25 for adults, €20 for teens (13-17) and €13 for kids (6-12).

KAYAKING ON THE RHONE AT AVIGNON

Operated by an association (Canoe Outings Comite de Vaucluse de Kayak) rather than a private company, this experience is extremely popular with river-cruise passengers, locals and groups, who often bring their own translator or request one because not all the staff speaks English. That said, they're currently the only outfitter offering kayaking in this gorgeous city, their prices are low and they have solid reviews on Trip Advisor . I've never canoed here but I see no reason that paddling around the 14th-century Palais des Papes and the famous Pont St. Benezet wouldn't be great fun. Canoe rentals in July/August are by the half hour: 30 minuntes is €8 pp, 60 minutes is €12 pp, 90 minuntes is €16 pp and so forth. Open daily from 2 pm to 6:30.  There are also three different “river discovery tours” in July and August – check the website for details. Questions? Call +33 (0)6 11 52 16 73 or +33 (0)6 51 60 13 59. The office is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm and can be reached at: +33 (0)4 28 70 27 27.  canoe-vaucluse.frcontact@canoe-vaucluse.fr.

Photo Credits: (1, 2) Kayaking on the Sorgue, photos courtesy of Kayak Vert and Canoe Evasion. (3) The famous source in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Photo courtesy of TheLuberon.com. (4)  Kayaking at the Pont du Gard, courtesy of Canoe Collias. (5) Kayaking the Rhône at Avignon, courtesy of Avignon Tourisme.

Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Join Us! Photographing the White Horses of the Camargue


One of the most-special experiences I've booked for my clients is a day devoted to photographing the famous white horses of the Camargue...and the cowboys (gardians) who look after them. To do this, I've teamed up with a terrific photographer who knows the best ranches, best places to shoot and best time of day for the most-magical images. She took all the photos above.

Not only will you improve your skills considerably but you'll get an exciting glimpse of a cherished Provençale tradition that many travelers miss. 

Shooting lasts roughly 90 minutes but there’s a 45-minute tutorial beforehand, plus travel time to the shooting site, so plan to spend about three hours. Workshops are suited to all levels, from beginner to professional, using smart phones to DSLRs. The best time to shoot is around sunrise and sunset so the timing changes with the seasons. Workshops are either public (where you can book as a solo and be paired with other people) or private (for you and your peeps only). Public workshops are on set dates; private ones can happen anytime.

Please note that the photographer is observing all COVID safety protocols. Masks are mandatory and group sizes have been reduced for social distancing. 

By the way, people often refer to these horses as "wild" but that's not the case...there are no white horses just lurking around the Camargue! They're all owned by someone and most live on ranches (manades), behind fences or sometimes gates. Many ranches are indeed open to the public at certain times...but that's another story for another day. In general, you don't just roll up to a ranch and start shooting the horses...and you almost certainly wouldn't get great shots. So that's why these workshops are ideal.

Two types of private workshops are available on your choice of dates.  A group of 7 to 10 horses running in the watery marshes is 825€ (for up to 8 people). A group of 5 to 7 horses on the beach (and running in the sea) is 1650€ (for up to 10 people). The price is a flat fee for your group; each workshop includes gardians in traditional gardian garb! Private workshops are available year round.

Public workshops are available on set dates, starting three hours before sunset. June is sold out but the dates for the rest of the year as as follows:  July 1, July 8, July 15, July 22, July 29, Aug 5, Aug 12, Aug 19, Sept 5, Oct 3, Oct 10 and Nov 7. These alternate between the marsh (180€ pp) and the beach (235€ pp). 

Whether you sign up for a public or private shoot, you’ll meet the photographer in or near Aigues-Mortes, about 45 minutes from Arles. For the marsh shoots, be sure to wear water-proof boots to the knee. For beach shoots between May and October, bare feet or walking sandals and shorts are fine. Masks won't be provided...you need to bring your own.
This same photographer also offers three-day workshops, shorter sessions focused on the birds of the Camargue (flamingos and others) and workshops on demand for groups of all types. Let me know what interests you and I'll reach out! 

In May 2021, there will be special workshops with mares and their new foals...probably five of each. These public shoots will be held on a private ranch, in a typically marshy and lovely Camargue landscape with birds, reeds, etc. 

For more info or to book: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com. 
*Note from Julie: If you're heading for the South of France, please check my websites ProvencePostTravel.com and WhatToDoinProvence.com. There you'll see all the ways in which I can help, whether you need a completely custom itinerary or just a couple fab tours or activities. We do lots of hotel and villa booking too, all over Provence and the Cote d'Azur, and would love to help you find the perfect place!

Wednesday, August 21, 2019

What's Happening in Provence?

Coming up this week (or super soon), we've got grape stomps, gladiator games, gourmet golfing, a Basquiat show, Michelin-starred meals, a pottery market, the last of the lavender festivals, a precious pig needing a perfect home and more. Read on!

Gourmet Golf Tournament at Manville
On Sunday Aug 25, enter the Bistrot du Paradou Cup at the Domaine de Manville and enjoy a gourmet buffet at hole #10. The event is organized by Bistrot du Paradou owner Vincent Quenin and held on the 18-hole course at a five-star resort between Les Baux and Maussane. If you know Manville, you know the setting is gorgeous. And if you know the Bistrot (or Paradou, as everyone calls it), you know the food is going to be great. For info and to register, click here or call: +33 (0)4 90 54 40 20.

Last Call for Lavender!
The village of Dignes-les-Bains has not one but two major lavender events each year. The first, the Corso de Lavande, has come and gone but the second happens this week. The 98th annual Lavender Fair (Foire de la Lavande) is Aug 21 to 25, with 200 stands from 150+ exhibitors offering every possible lavender product plus food, decor, gifts and more. This year there are two free horse shows every day, featuring the famous white Camargue horses we all love. The fair runs from 10 am to 8 pm daily and all the info is here.

Good Vibrations in Avignon

The 30-minute, 360-degree sound-and-light show called Vibrations, held every evening in the courtyard of the Palais des Papes in Avignon, opened for the season on Aug 11 and runs through Oct 12. In August, there are two shows each evening at 9.30 pm and 10.30 pm, while September and October feature one performance at 9.30 pm nightly (plus a second show at 10.30 pm on Friday and Saturday nights only in September). The schedule and all details are here.

Music Under the Stars in Avignon
The program Sous Les Etoiles at the Musee Louis Vouland presents two classical concerts and a lecture this week, in the garden of the museum, starting at 8:30 pm. The concerts are tonight and Friday. For all the info, click here.

Basquiat, Darroze & More at Chateau La Coste

There's always something happening at Chateau La Coste. With the help of the Enrico Navarra Gallery in Paris, La Coste just unveiled an exhibit of 140 Jean-Michel Basquiat drawings from the years 1977 to 1987 (Basquiat died in 1988 at age 27). The show opened Aug 11 and runs through Oct 13. Another temporary show opens Thursday Aug 22; this one features the work of Jean-Michel Othoniel and Yoshitomo Nara. The vernissage (opening party) for that show is 5 pm to 6:30 pm and all the details are here. If you want to try the cuisine of Michelin two-star chef Hélène Darroze (of Hélène Darroze at The Connaught in London and Restaurant Hélène Darroze in Paris and Moscow), she's cooking until Sept 1 in the restaurant aVilla La Coste, the property's 28-suite, five-star hotel, where two Michelin three-starred chefs, Francis Mallmann and Gérald Passédat, also have restaurants. (To book: +33 (0)4 42 50 50 00, reservations@villalacoste.com.) And the Château La Coste summer program of live music on the terrace of the restaurant La Terrace (6:30 to 8:30 pm) wraps up this week with rock/reggae (Thurs Aug 22), swing/manouche (Sat Aug 24) and pop/soul guitar (Sun Aug 25). For my recent story about Chateau La Coste, click here. For the website, click here. (Photos: A Basquiat, chef Hélène Darroze and the Villa La Coste Restaurant.) 

A Roman Holiday in Arles
For one week in late August, every year since 2007, Arles is transformed into the ancient city of Arelate to celebrate its Gallo Roman past with circus games, gladiator classes, Arena tours, Roman camps, street performances, Roman taverns, film screenings and much more. This year's Arelate Festival runs until Sunday Aug 26 and includes plenty of activities for families. On Saturday Aug 24 for example, there are kids workshops in the square between the Amphitheatre and the Antique Theater. These include: dressing up Roman style at 11 am (5€), mosaic class at 10:30 am or 3:30 pm (5€), weaving (5€), Roman hair-styling (5€), amulet making and more. See the full schedule, in French, here. For info in English, try the Arles Tourist Office.

Epic Films in an Epic Setting
As part of the Arelate Festival, there's the 32nd Annual Peplum (Epic) Film Festival in Arles until Aug 24, with projections on a giant screen in the Théâtre Antique, starting each evening at 9 pm. An intro to the film is provided each evening by a cinema expert. The schedule includes Exodus: Gods and Kings (2014), Barabbas (1962), The Mummy (1999) and more. The schedule and details are here.

Courses Camarguaises in Arles
If you want to see the summer evening Courses Camarguaises in the Roman arena in Arles, you've got two more chances: Wednesday Aug 21 and Friday Aug 23. (They're every Monday, Wednesday and Friday throughout July and August at 5:30 pm). Courses Camarguaises are also held at village fêtes throughout Provence but there's definitely something about seeing one in this monumental Roman site. Think of this as a kinder, gentler bullfight: people are rarely injured and the bulls are not killed. Known as razeteurs, the young men (I've never seen a woman do it but there must be some?) aim to pluck ribbons and rosettes tied to the bulls’ horns, cutting them free with special barbed gloves. The competitors are on foot and rely solely on speed and agility. And you can rest assured the bull will live to see another day. Tickets (11€ adults, 7€ kids), can be bought at the arena or at the Arles Tourist Office.

Looking for Love?
On Sunday Sept 1, it's "journee portes ouvertes" (open doors day) at the S.P.A des Baux-de-Provence. Also called the Refuge Saint Roch, it's like what we Americans call the Humane Society. From 2 to 5:30 pm, come visit and find the perfect companion; all dogs and cats ready for adoption have been vaccinated, sterilized and given a tatoo ID. Last time I checked, they were also looking for the right home for a five-year-old pig named León le Cochon, who was "raised like a little dog and comes when called." Tempting!

Foodies on the Loose!
St. Remy is filled with artisinal food producers, working in traditional ways, keeping local food traditions alive. And luckily, many have shops and workshops right in the heart of the village. On this half-day walking tour for food lovers of all ages (Thursday Sept 5 from 3 to 6 pm or Saturday Sept 21 from 9:30 to 12:30) you'll be paired with other travelers (ten people max) for a very filling and fun adventure. Rendezvous with your guide at the Tourist Office and then hit the rue running! Staying in the heart of the village (with minimal walking), you'll roam from shop to shop tasting chocolates, cookies, nougat, honey, olive oils, tapenades, confitures and more. You might take a break for coffee with a few macarons on the side--gotta keep energy up!--then most likely move on to a cheese tasting, enjoyed with a glass of a favorite local wine. Along the way you'll get a taste of the rich history of this cobblestone village and a glimpse into local life from your charming guide. 75€ pp for adults, 50€ ages 12 to 18, 30€ ages 6 to 12. Kids under 6 are welcome at no charge as long as they're fearless and willing to taste! The tour is also available other dates...just ask. For info or to book: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com.

Potters and the People Who Love Them
Thirty or so ceramic artists will be selling their work at the Crillon-le-Brave Potters Market, from 9 am to 7 pm on the Place de la Mairie on Sunday Aug 25. There will be pottery demos, a workshop for kids and adults, a free raffle and food available. For more info about the event sponsor Terres de Provence, the regional association of ceramicists and potters, click here.

Playing Catch-up at the Carrieres
This year's show at the Carrières de Lumières is about Vincent Van Gogh and it's attracting record numbers. (All the details are here.) But for those who missed previous years' shows or want to see them again, the program called Les Intégrales des Carrières repeats three of them, all in one evening...ten times during the season. The next dates for Les Intégrales are Sept 13 & 14, 20 & 21, 27 & 28. On these evenings the entry fee is 24€ (37€ if you want to enjoy a special meal) and tickets must be purchased in advance. The doors open at 7:30 and the shows start at 8:30. This year the program will feature "Picasso and the Spanish Masters" (2018), "Chagall: Midsummer Nights Dreams" (2016) and "Klimt and Vienna: A Century of Gold and Colors" (2014). For more info, click here.

Lourmarin Summer Music Festival 
There's still plenty of time to enjoy this splendid classical and jazz festival held at the Château de Lourmarin. This week on Thursday Aug 22, hear four-handed piano with Irina Chkourindina and Magali Lauron, playing Schubert, Brahms, Ravel and Piazzola. Next up, on Monday Aug 26, hear Andrei Korobeinikov on piano, playing Schumann and Rachmaninov. The festival continues through October 12 and all the info is here.

Special Evenings at the Caumont in Aix
At the fantastic Hotel de Caumont (aka the Caumont Art Center) in Aix, the summer show, "Masterpieces from the Guggenheim Foundation" runs until Sept 29. A special way to see it is on a Friday night, when the museum stays open late and offers a more exclusive experience with Champagne, live music, an optional dinner on the terrace and more. Tickets must be booked in advance, at the museum or here. Or, see the Guggenheim show on a Wednesday or Saturday and stay on to hear live jazz in the garden. The concerts start at 7:30 pm and your 20€ entry includes a glass of Champagne. Info on the jazz concerts is here

Grape Stomps at Les Pastras
And none too soon! Grape stomping starts up again on Sept 2 at Les Pastras in the Southern Luberon and runs until roughly Sept 30. Your Instagram needs this! Sign up (two people minimum) and tour a Provençal farm, learn how grapes are cultivated and how wine is made, then stomp away in enormous waist-high antique oak barrels with a view of Cezanne's beloved Mt. Ste. Victoire. You'll learn the difference between harvesting wine grapes and table grapes, dance to Piaf, learn French drinking songs and laugh a lot...guaranteed! Afterwards you'll enjoy platters of cheese, pâté and charcuterie; all you care to drink of Les Pastras rosé and red wines; and a tasting of the farm's olive oil and truffle oils. Price: 60€ pp adults, 40€ pp kids. Offered weekdays at 10 am or 6 pm but please book at least a week in advance. All details are here.