Cycling in the Shadow of Mont Ventoux

John Helmkampf and Gerry Patterson, co-owners of 44|5 Cycling Tours in Nîmes, have 25 years of experience biking southern France’s roads between them. John, an American, moved to Nîmes in the Languedoc in 2006; he and his wife, Marie-Laure, have 2 children. Gerry, born and raised in Canada, came in 2008; he and his wife Shoko also live in Nîmes. John and Gerry joined forces in 2010. Today they offer a variety of cycling experiences, from guided half-day to week-long tours throughout Provence and the Languedoc. They actively participate in regional races and are often called on to support clients from around the world who want to climb the famous 1,912 meter (6,273 ft) Mont Ventoux.  For those of you who love to bike on your own, I asked them to share one of their very-favorite rides...and they sent this 55 km (30 mile) loop that starts and finishes in Bédoin. Feel free to contact John and Gerry for more details on this ride or to receive a route map. And to find out why the company is called 44|5 Cycling Tours, click here!

We often start our rides with clients in Bédoin, a small town of about 3,000 people, as it’s here that so much Provence cycling history has been made. Bédoin sits at the foot of Mont Ventoux, the much-feared Tour de France climb, which literally starts in the center of town.  Also known as the Giant of Provence, Ventoux has played host to the Tour de France 15 times since 1951, when it was first included in the race. For cyclists of all types, it’s a mythical mountain whose captivating powers compel them to climb the summit road at least once in their lifetime.

We’re not here to climb Mont Ventoux (not today at least), but we'll have the tempting pleasure of viewing its impressive forested flanks and rocky summit throughout our ride.

If we’re lucky enough to be riding on Monday, we might first visit Bédoin’s vibrant Provençal market, one of the largest in the region, showcasing a broad array of artisanal products. Otherwise, we park our car in one of the designated lots and ride to the top of the main road, where a round-about indicates our first turn to the left towards Malaucène, in a northwesterly direction.

The next 13 km of road leading to Malaucène prove to be one of the smoothest, most scenic and exhilarating stretches in the area.  Our legs and bodies will warm slowly as we pedal the gentle slopes outside Bédoin, and continue upward through pine stands and “garrigues,” the mix of rocks, shrubs and small plants that's emblematic of Provençal landscapes.

                       

A bit further on, we’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the expanding valley floor, and off in the distance the looming footprints of the Vaucluse, Luberon and Alpilles massifs.  The real fun begins when we see the sign for the “Col de la Madeleine,” not to be confused with its 1,993 meter namesake in the Alps. It’s here that we begin to sweep down for several kms, braking only to enjoy the cherry orchards and vineyards lining the road on our way into Malaucène.

If it’s Wednesday, then it’s market day in Malaucène.  We could buy a few snacks here if needed, but with a good rhythm underway, we’re likely just to continue toward our next destination, the village of Beaumes-de-Venise.  Following the main road out the north side of Malaucène (D938) we take a right at the round-about just in front of the gas station, and then an immediate left (D90) following the signs to Beaumes.

For the next 23 km or so, we'll experience some of the most varied and magnificent countryside in the south of France.  But you’ll have to work for it, because this is the most demanding section of the ride, with larger hills and steep sections followed by winding descents where braking is obligatory.  At the top of our first climb, we’re rewarded with a birds-eye view of the jagged limestone outcroppings known as the Dentelles de Montmirail, so close it feels like we can almost reach out and touch them.  It’s here, on the hillsides and in folds of the Dentelles, that a handful of confidential wineries produce some of the finest AOC Ventoux and AOC Beaumes-de-Venise wines.

Twisting down into a beautiful small gorge, and then heading slightly back up, we arrive at the hilltop village of Suzette, where you might return to enjoy a fantastic meal on the patio of Les Coquelicots, overlooking the vineyards.  At the village’s only intersection, we head left toward Le Barroux (sign-posted) and immediately plunge down a hidden valley road that will leave you breathless.  Just outside of Le Barroux, we’ll take a sharp right (D90a) toward La Roque-Alric.  This very “petit” village has no more than 100 inhabitants, but offers postcard-perfect scenes...so we usually stop for some pictures and to admire its small church built into the side of the rock itself.

There’s only one road leaving La Roque-Alric, and it’s 7 km of pure cycling delight, almost all downhill to our next destination, Beaumes-de-Venise.  Arriving in Beaumes’ village center, you’ll feel like you just returned to civilization after having cycled through the Dentelles’ backcountry roads.  An espresso stop may be in order, knowing that the hardest part of our journey is over and that we’ve already ridden two-thirds of today’s route.

Looking back up at the homes perched on Beaume’s rocky hillside, it’s not surprising to learn that these same ridges and grottoes sheltered the local Gaul population (think France’s famous comic book character “Asterix”) for hundreds of years before the Romans conquered the region at the end of 2^nd century BC.  In more modern times, Beaumes has made its vinous name as one of 16 Côtes-du-Rhônes “Cru” wines, and is perhaps best known as one of only two appellations in the Rhône valley allowed to produce “vin doux naturel” or sweet wine.  This, along with a handful of higher-end restaurants, provide ample reason to come back and experience Beaumes’ gustatory pleasures at a later time.

For the remaining portion of the ride back to Bédoin, we’ll be cycling on flat to gently rolling roads, allowing us to sit up a bit and take in some more spectacular scenery.  Departing Beaumes on the main road heading east (D21) we’re riding through the agricultural heartland of the area.  Vineyards, yes, and lots of them, but also groves of olive, fig, cherry, apricot and apple trees. It’s no wonder that the summer weekend markets that dot the area are chock full of succulent produce.

Rolling through Saint-Hippolyte and onward to the villages of Caromb and Saint-Pierre-de-Vassols, we’re constantly reminded of why cyclists around the world make the pilgrimage to this site: Mont Ventoux.  Its imposing shoulders stretch out for kilometres to either side, and if we didn’t know better, we might be fooled into thinking that its limestone scree summit was capped in snow.  So what is man’s fascination with climbing mountains, and in particular Ventoux?  To answer that age-old question, you’ll have to go all the way back to the Italian poet Petrarch, who is said to have been the first to climb Ventoux in 1336, and based a famous work on his experience.

Finally, back on the main road leading into Bédoin from the south, we catch a glimpse of the monument to all who have cycled up Ventoux in the past, and feel rather relieved that we've opted to take up that challenge another day! Pulling into the village center once again, we’re greeted by the noon-time animation of children heading home from school, artisans and shop-workers breaking for coffee, and tourists browsing up and down the main thoroughfare.  While our cycling adventure has ended for the day, we agree that a restorative lunch is in order, and head off to one of the many excellent restaurants Bédoin has to offer.

Photos: (1) A Private Peleton: Gerry and friends tackle the roads near Bédoin. (2) The main Bédoin round-about; photo by Véronique Panier.  (3) No Ventoux for us today, thank you...but we'll be back. (4, 5) Sausages and ceramics in the Bedoin market on Monday; Photos by Michael Green. (6) Smooth roads and garrigues.  (7) The pretty village of Caromb. (8) The Dentelles de Montmirail. (9) When you hit Beaumes-de-Venise, you'll have ridden two-thirds of the route. Espresso is in order!  (10) After the Etape du Tour in 2012: John's in the center, Gerry's on the right. The guys made it into the prestigious "Top 10% of Finishers" in this grueling "sportive" which allows amateurs to ride a full mountain stage of the Tour de France before the pros do it. Some 10,000 people ride the Etape du Tour annually.

A Gorgeous New Wine Country Guesthouse

Since I launched my Provence travel-planning business this winter, I've been running hither and yon, checking out hotels, inns, rental villas and restaurants in all price ranges so I can suggest and book the best ones for each client. But also so I can share the ones I love with you here. One place that really stands out is the Clos Saint Saourde, an impossibly stylish five-year-old guesthouse just outside Beaumes de Venise. But before I got the chance to write about it, owners Géraldine and Jérôme Thuillier told me they'd be opening a second guesthouse, this one right in the heart of the village itself. I missed the opening party late last month but Jerome just sent me photos and I'm not surprised to see that Les Remparts (above) looks every bit as glorious as its older sibling. 

Built upon the 16th-century walls of this famous wine village, Les Remparts offers exceptional views of Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains on one side...and village views (the church steeple, the old castle ruins, the old Canale-tile roofs and the Vallée du Rhône) on the other. 

It has five air-conditioned rooms, a pool, communal kitchen (with serve-yourself Nespresso and tea), a large lounge with a fireplace, a library corner and of course, a garden. Like they do at Clos Saint Saourde, the Thuilliers include breakfast in the price and can provide other meals if arranged in advance. Wine tours and tastings, massage, catering, babysitting and bikes are available on request. Rooms range from €140 to €280.

Jerome was an interior decorator in Paris before the family came to Provence. His aesthetic blends beautifully with the rugged beauty of the setting, both here and at Clos Saint Saourde. I love the creamy colors, exposed stone walls, sense of space, juxtaposition of old pieces with new and exquisite lighting. Jerome's attention to detail is evident in every inch.  These rooms are romantic enough for a honeymoon, elegant without being stuffy. The design magazines are going to jump all over this place. I want Jerome to do my house!

Whether you're exploring the world-famous Côtes du Rhône wine route or simply craving a serene getaway in stunning surroundings, this is a delicious option. 

La Maison des Remparts

#74, cours Louis Pasteur
84190 Beaumes de Venise
Tel/fax 04 90 37 35 20

www.lamaisondesremparts.com

contact@lamaisondesremparts.com


Note: Le Clos Saint Saourde, the Thullier's first guesthouse, has one of the prettiest treehouses in Provence; see it and others available by the night in my recent story here. Meanwhile other guesthouses that I've seen and loved lately are the Le Mas de Tourterelles in St. Remy (very pretty rooms, English owners and a great village location), Mas Bellevue just outside St. Remy (expansive views, great pool, wonderfully quiet setting) and the stunning Mas de la Rose in Orgon, about 10 minutes east of Eygalieres (quintessential Provence!).

Out on a Limb: Tree Houses in Provence

Above: Le Clos Saint Saourde

Above: Bastide du Bois Breant

Above: Orion

Above: Le Pavillon Vert

Above: Maison Valvert     

Above: Chateau Valmer

Above: Figues & Fugues

Over the years I've seen a lot of fabulous places to stay in Provence: hotels of all types, chateaux, country inns, gites, guesthouses, hotel barges, riverboats, cottages, platform tents,  campgrounds, gypsy caravans and even yurts. Yep--thought I had seen it all. And then I started coming across tree houses, which seem to have become a trend. How fun! If you’re itching to get in touch with your inner Tarzan, you’ll want to check these out…

Le Clos Saint Saourde is a gorgeous ‘designer B&B’ in the heart of Beaumes de Venise wine country, 30 km from Avignon. There the tree house is actually perched on stilts. The large bay window and deck offer fabulous views of  poplar, oak, the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range and vineyards as far as the eye can see. There’s a Jacuzzi on the terrace (a first in France) and all the best modern amenities (flat screen TV, mini bar, WiFi, heat and A/C) inside. Take your breakfast at the pool or owner Jérôme Thuillier (a former interior designer in Paris) will bring you a tray to enjoy in the privacy of…your tree. Le Clos Saint Saourde, contact@leclossaintsaourde.com,  04-90-37-35-20  or 06-99-41-44-19.

At Le Pavillon Vert, five km from Avignon in Vedene, you can sleep five meters off the ground in “La Cabane Perchée,” which the owners call "25 square meter s of love nest.” It’s a rustic but lovely light-spilled space, with a double bed, bathroom, kitchen and table for dining on the deck. Le Pavillon Vert,  merananya@hotmail.com,  06-11-49-49-19.

In the Luberon, La Bastide du Bois Breant in Maubec is a lovely three-star hotel  in a beautiful  five-acre setting. The main building dates to 1825. For nearly a century, the property was a truffle farm; hence its thick forest of white and green oak. Deep within that forest are two hidden tree houses, where nothing but the soft swoosh of leaves will disturb you. When you’re ready for civilization again, you’ll find a shimmering pool,  breakfast on a sun-splashed terrace and other small-hotel services. Hôtel La Bastide du Bois Bréant,  contact@hotel-bastide-bois-breant.com, 04-90-05-06-78.

At Mas du Figuier in Bevons, 5 km west of Sisteron, this tiny (6 meter square) pine hideout was built by the previous owner to fulfill a childhood dream. But new owner Marion Stutz says she—and her clients--are enchanted by it. It sits 10 meters off the ground in a 100-year-old oak, overlooking a lavender field and the Lure Mountain beyond.  Probably the most rustic of the bunch,  it’s insulated with sheep wool and lit with solar power.  The treehouse has no running water or bathroom so you’ll have to go in the woods. Just kidding—you have your own private facilities in the main building, 50 meters away. Also on the property are three gites (separate cottages) and five guestrooms, all reasonably priced.  Mas du Figuier, masdufiguier@gmail.com,  06-82-60-14-39. 


Snuggled in the woods near St. Paul de Vence with views of that famous hilltop village, Orion has five—count ‘em--five tree houses. All have bathrooms and WiFi and breakfast is included. Plus, there’s access to a kitchen if you want it, a sauna, massage, yoga…and a pool that’s kept healthy with gravel and plants instead of than chlorine. Orion B&B, welcome@orionbb.com.

At Maison Valvert in Bonnieux, Cathy Herssens offers guestrooms, suites and a rustic-and-romantic tree house called La Cabane. The treehouse was built by Alain Laurens (of La CabanePerchee), whose philosophy dicates that not a single branch may be cut off, not a single nail driven into the tree. With views of the Petit Luberon Mountains and “the interior design of a five-star hotel,” this elegant treehouse sleeps two and rents for 275€ per night in high season. The price includes daily cleaning, breakfast, WiFi and use of the heated swimming pool. The 15-hectare property is planted with truffle oak trees, lavender, cherry and olive trees, and sits just 800 meters from the historic hilltop village of Bonnieux. Picnic baskets and table d’hôte style meals available upon on request. Maison Valvert,  info@maisonvalvert.com,  04-90-75-61-71.

Chateau de Creissauds is a 16th-century castle on a sprawling estate in Aubagne, nine miles east of Marseille. There the tree house sleeps four and has a small kitchen, TV, air-conditioning and of course, a terrace. The resort itself has tennis and squash courts….and a golf course over the hill. Another treehouse called Dans les Arbres houses the hotel bar. Château de Creissauds,  info@creissauds.com, 04-91-24-84-45.

Chateau de Valmer, near St. Tropez, is a four-star hotel with 42 rooms and  two intoxicating treehouses, the newest of which was created especially for families. There’s a winery on the property and beach access. The hotel itself is nestled in the heart of a five-hectare park, with a 100-year-old palm grove, a vineyard and a spa. Chateau de Valmer,  info@chateauvalmer.com,  04-94-55 15-15.

Don’t see what you’re looking for above ? They also have tree houses at:

* Figues and Fugues, between Lourmarin and Aix. 
* Reve en Luberon in Apt. 
* Les Ecuries in Brittany. 
* Bois de Vins in the Dordogne.
* La Cour de Remi in Pas de Calais. 
* Domaine du Chalet in Chigny les Roses, between Reims and   Epernay. 
* Mamouna et Cabanotte, 30 km west of Lyon. 
* A Pignata in Corsica. 

**Note: More than 50 treehouses from around the world are featured in the book Tree Houses: Fairy Tale Castles in the Air by Philip Jodidio. Tree Houses is a tour of the beautifully designed tree houses featuring a variety of architectural styles from romantic to modern, published by Taschen and available from Amazon...