Fundraiser for Camargue Cowboys April 3

Let's give it up for the Gardians! On Sunday April 3 at Domaine Paul Ricard de Méjanes, the Rotary Club des Baux de Provence is hosting a full-day event to raise funds for the Mutual Insurance de la Confrèrie (brotherhood) de Camargue, which supports the men and women who work the manades (ranches) of the Camargue region of Provence. The Mutual is a supplement, not unlike the one used for mountain guides, which helps with expenses following a serious work accident and assists the families of those who are handicapped or deceased. 

"This is a serious undertaking and we hope this event will find a place on the Camargue calendar each year," says Larry Ware, vice president of the Rotary. "This 'day in the country' will help all of us to better appreciate these amazingly passionate and devoted people. It will also help visitors discover the Camargue 'profonde' and hopefully create a closer bond with this remarkable and authentic region of France and its people."

Larry advises turning up at Méjanes before 10 am. The day begins in the Arena (plaza) at 10:15 with a demo of the "Course Camarguaise," a traditional bull sport. This will be followed by a bullfighting demo by a young Camargue bullfighter; neither bulls nor men will be hurt! Next comes a display by the gardians about how they work with the cows (not bulls this time). At 11:30 the Amazones (a group of women on horseback) will exhibit their equestrian expertise. An apertif and lunch will be served in the restaurant at 12:15. 

After lunch comes a rare event: The Queen of Arles and a number of Arlesiennes will demonstrate and discuss the evolution of these traditional and unique outfits. From 2:30 to 4 pm, there will be “a round table” where a Camargue dignitaries, ranch owners and gardians will field questions. There will also be multiple activities for kids of all ages. 

Tickets are 29€ for adults, 15€ for teens; free for kids under 12. Ticket price includes all events plus lunch with wine and coffee.

All entrance fees and tombola (raffle) earnings go directly to the Mutual Insurance de la Confrerie des Gardians de Camargue.

For questions: ware42larry@gmail.com, 06 19 05 31 90.

Larry asked me to mention that the Rotary Club of Les Baux is always looking for new international members, both expats and part-timers.  "We have a number of English speaking French and Belgian members," he says, "so language won't be too much of a problem."

And for info on upcoming bullfights and competitions in the region, click here.

Photos: A few of my favorite Gardian shots (courtesy of the Manades Jacques Bon and Hotel Mas de Peint) and a graceful Arlesienne on a white Camargue horse (courtesy of Domaine Paul Ricard). The map shows where in the Camargue the April 3 fundraiser will be held. The poster is easier to read if you click on it. 

My New Favorite Rosé

At dinner the other night, my friends Jenny and Jean-Paul Coste poured a beautiful local rosé that I had never tasted: Domaine Guilbert. They told me how winemakers Nathalie and Guy Delacommune had purchased four hectares of vines from Dominique Hauvette in 2007 and begun making red and rosé wines under the Guilbert label. (Guilbert is Nathalie’s family name.) Madame Hauvette kept a parcel for herself, where she continues to make her highly rated wines, as she has since 1988. (But before we go further, don't you love the name Delacommune, which means "of the township"?)

So yesterday morning, a sunny--but bitingly cold--day here in Provence, I ran over to the Delacommune commune to buy a case of rosé and a bottle or two of red. The charming Nathalie, who had just returned from a wine-tasting trip to South Africa, told me about the domaine and then invited me into her pretty kitchen so I could see the specatacular views. The Guilberts spent a full year renovating the huge old mas (farmhouse), parts of which date to the 17^th century, and from the little I saw of it, their bon goût extends well beyond wine, to design and cuisine as well. Something tomato-ey and fantastic-smelling was simmering on the stove, two sweet dogs were running about, photos of three handsome children were pinned to the fridge and it all looked like one of those magazine articles we love, headlined "Provençal Winemakers at Home." Guy made a brief appearance but, dressed in warm work clothes and boots, was clearly busy; Nathalie told me they had just finished bottling the 2011 rosé and were trying to catch up on a million tasks.

Guilbert is the smallest domaine in the Appellation des Baux de Provence region. It sits amongst lavender, cypress and olive trees in the foothills of the Alpilles, the mountains so prominent in all those paintings Van Gogh did during his time in St. Remy.  This is a stunningly beautiful quartier (area) that most tourists never see, just off the main road (D99) leading east out of St. Remy towards Cavaillon. It's a maze of narrow, gently winding roads, with vast olive farms and vineyards on either side. Gorgeous stone farmhouses, when you can see them, are just barely visible beyond tall gates or at the end of long dirt tracks. (Today, smoke poofed out of every thick stone chimney.) The quartier La Galine is home to the wine domaines Hauvette and Henri Milan, as well as the nightclub La Galine, which despite a ridiculously remote location on a dark, dead-end road, draws huge crowds on summer evenings.  (There's also another La Galine, a welcoming roadside restaurant and bar right on the D99 that serves up good food, warm ambiance and regular boules games out back.)

The gently sloping Domaine Guilbert enjoys argil-limestone soil, natural drainage and exceptional amounts of sunshine year round. The vineyard has been organic (or biologique) for 25 of its 30 years and now produces 25% rose and 75% red from Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. (White-wine grapes will soon be planted.) The Delacommunes built a new cave/winery/bottling plant, from organic oak and pine, in 2010, where they age their reds in oak for 12 months.  If you want more specific winemaking details, you can visit the Guilbert site or the vineyard itself... however this is not one of those domaines with an elaborate tasting room or a pretty shop full of local products. Individuals and small groups are welcome to taste with Nathalie or Guy in the cave (dress warmly!), but they say it's always best to call first. (Both speak very good English.) The way to the vineyard is well-marked; you'll find the street opposite the roadhouse La Galine.

Obviously, things are going well for la famille Delacommune. Their wines are being served in top restaurants in Paris and Provence...and are selling extremely well in wine shops, where the red is around 18€ and the rosé is just 9.50€ per bottle. It's also available online. Further proof of their success: the couple has just purchased a second four-acre parcel, where they’ll plant more Grenache and Syrah along with Roussanne and Viognier for white wine. This should double their current 14,000-bottle production within four years. For the time being, the wines are only available in France.

Thank you, Guy and Nathalie, for your hospitality, hard work and lovely wines! And thank you, Jenny and Jean-Paul, for introducing me to my new favorite rosé! 

Domaine Guilbert

Chemin du Trou des Boeufs, La Haute Galine

St. Remy de Provence

04-32-61-18-89

06-14-65-03-22

domaine-guilbert.com

domaineguilbert@orange.fr