What's Happening in Provence?

Coming up this week (or super soon), we've got grape stomps, gladiator games, gourmet golfing, a Basquiat show, Michelin-starred meals, a pottery market, the last of the lavender festivals, a precious pig needing a perfect home and more. Read on!

Gourmet Golf Tournament at Manville

On Sunday Aug 25, enter the Bistrot du Paradou Cup at the Domaine de Manville and enjoy a gourmet buffet at hole #10. The event is organized by Bistrot du Paradou owner Vincent Quenin and held on the 18-hole course at a five-star resort between Les Baux and Maussane. If you know Manville, you know the setting is gorgeous. And if you know the Bistrot (or Paradou, as everyone calls it), you know the food is going to be great. For info and to register, click here or call: +33 (0)4 90 54 40 20.

Last Call for Lavender!

The village of Dignes-les-Bains has not one but two major lavender events each year. The first, the Corso de Lavande, has come and gone but the second happens this week. The 98^th annual Lavender Fair (Foire de la Lavande) is Aug 21 to 25, with 200 stands from 150+ exhibitors offering every possible lavender product plus food, decor, gifts and more. This year there are two free horse shows every day, featuring the famous white Camargue horses we all love. The fair runs from 10 am to 8 pm daily and all the info is here.

Good Vibrations in Avignon

The 30-minute, 360-degree sound-and-light show called Vibrations, held every evening in the courtyard of the Palais des Papes in Avignon, opened for the season on Aug 11 and runs through Oct 12. In August, there are two shows each evening at 9.30 pm and 10.30 pm, while September and October feature one performance at 9.30 pm nightly (plus a second show at 10.30 pm on Friday and Saturday nights only in September). The schedule and all details are here.

Music Under the Stars in Avignon

The program Sous Les Etoiles at the Musee Louis Vouland presents two classical concerts and a lecture this week, in the garden of the museum, starting at 8:30 pm. The concerts are tonight and Friday. For all the info, click here.

Basquiat, Darroze & More at Chateau La Coste

There's always something happening at Chateau La Coste. With the help of the Enrico Navarra Gallery in Paris, La Coste just unveiled an exhibit of 140 Jean-Michel Basquiat drawings from the years 1977 to 1987 (Basquiat died in 1988 at age 27). The show opened Aug 11 and runs through Oct 13. Another temporary show opens Thursday Aug 22; this one features the work of Jean-Michel Othoniel and Yoshitomo Nara. The vernissage (opening party) for that show is 5 pm to 6:30 pm and all the details are here. If you want to try the cuisine of Michelin two-star chef Hélène Darroze (of Hélène Darroze at The Connaught in London and Restaurant Hélène Darroze in Paris and Moscow), she's cooking until Sept 1 in the restaurant at Villa La Coste, the property's 28-suite, five-star hotel, where two Michelin three-starred chefs, Francis Mallmann and Gérald Passédat, also have restaurants. (To book: +33 (0)4 42 50 50 00, reservations@villalacoste.com.) And the Château La Coste summer program of live music on the terrace of the restaurant La Terrace (6:30 to 8:30 pm) wraps up this week with rock/reggae (Thurs Aug 22), swing/manouche (Sat Aug 24) and pop/soul guitar (Sun Aug 25). For my recent story about Chateau La Coste, click here. For the website, click here. (Photos: A Basquiat, chef Hélène Darroze and the Villa La Coste Restaurant.) 

A Roman Holiday in Arles

For one week in late August, every year since 2007, Arles is transformed into the ancient city of Arelate to celebrate its Gallo Roman past with circus games, gladiator classes, Arena tours, Roman camps, street performances, Roman taverns, film screenings and much more. This year's Arelate Festival runs until Sunday Aug 26 and includes plenty of activities for families. On Saturday Aug 24 for example, there are kids workshops in the square between the Amphitheatre and the Antique Theater. These include: dressing up Roman style at 11 am (5€), mosaic class at 10:30 am or 3:30 pm (5€), weaving (5€), Roman hair-styling (5€), amulet making and more. See the full schedule, in French, here. For info in English, try the Arles Tourist Office.

Epic Films in an Epic Setting

As part of the Arelate Festival, there's the 32nd Annual Peplum (Epic) Film Festival in Arles until Aug 24, with projections on a giant screen in the Théâtre Antique, starting each evening at 9 pm. An intro to the film is provided each evening by a cinema expert. The schedule includes Exodus: Gods and Kings (2014), Barabbas (1962), The Mummy (1999) and more. The schedule and details are here.

Courses Camarguaises in Arles

If you want to see the summer evening Courses Camarguaises in the Roman arena in Arles, you've got two more chances: Wednesday Aug 21 and Friday Aug 23. (They're every Monday, Wednesday and Friday throughout July and August at 5:30 pm). Courses Camarguaises are also held at village fêtes throughout Provence but there's definitely something about seeing one in this monumental Roman site. Think of this as a kinder, gentler bullfight: people are rarely injured and the bulls are not killed. Known as razeteurs, the young men (I've never seen a woman do it but there must be some?) aim to pluck ribbons and rosettes tied to the bulls’ horns, cutting them free with special barbed gloves. The competitors are on foot and rely solely on speed and agility. And you can rest assured the bull will live to see another day. Tickets (11€ adults, 7€ kids), can be bought at the arena or at the Arles Tourist Office.

Looking for Love?

On Sunday Sept 1, it's "journee portes ouvertes" (open doors day) at the S.P.A des Baux-de-Provence. Also called the Refuge Saint Roch, it's like what we Americans call the Humane Society. From 2 to 5:30 pm, come visit and find the perfect companion; all dogs and cats ready for adoption have been vaccinated, sterilized and given a tatoo ID. Last time I checked, they were also looking for the right home for a five-year-old pig named León le Cochon, who was "raised like a little dog and comes when called." Tempting!

Foodies on the Loose!

St. Remy is filled with artisinal food producers, working in traditional ways, keeping local food traditions alive. And luckily, many have shops and workshops right in the heart of the village. On this half-day walking tour for food lovers of all ages (Thursday Sept 5 from 3 to 6 pm or Saturday Sept 21 from 9:30 to 12:30) you'll be paired with other travelers (ten people max) for a very filling and fun adventure. Rendezvous with your guide at the Tourist Office and then hit the rue running! Staying in the heart of the village (with minimal walking), you'll roam from shop to shop tasting chocolates, cookies, nougat, honey, olive oils, tapenades, confitures and more. You might take a break for coffee with a few macarons on the side--gotta keep energy up!--then most likely move on to a cheese tasting, enjoyed with a glass of a favorite local wine. Along the way you'll get a taste of the rich history of this cobblestone village and a glimpse into local life from your charming guide. 75€ pp for adults, 50€ ages 12 to 18, 30€ ages 6 to 12. Kids under 6 are welcome at no charge as long as they're fearless and willing to taste! The tour is also available other dates...just ask. For info or to book: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com.

Potters and the People Who Love Them

Thirty or so ceramic artists will be selling their work at the Crillon-le-Brave Potters Market, from 9 am to 7 pm on the Place de la Mairie on Sunday Aug 25. There will be pottery demos, a workshop for kids and adults, a free raffle and food available. For more info about the event sponsor Terres de Provence, the regional association of ceramicists and potters, click here.

Playing Catch-up at the Carrieres

This year's show at the Carrières de Lumières is about Vincent Van Gogh and it's attracting record numbers. (All the details are here.) But for those who missed previous years' shows or want to see them again, the program called Les Intégrales des Carrières repeats three of them, all in one evening...ten times during the season. The next dates for Les Intégrales are Sept 13 & 14, 20 & 21, 27 & 28. On these evenings the entry fee is 24€ (37€ if you want to enjoy a special meal) and tickets must be purchased in advance. The doors open at 7:30 and the shows start at 8:30. This year the program will feature "Picasso and the Spanish Masters" (2018), "Chagall: Midsummer Nights Dreams" (2016) and "Klimt and Vienna: A Century of Gold and Colors" (2014). For more info, click here.

Lourmarin Summer Music Festival 

There's still plenty of time to enjoy this splendid classical and jazz festival held at the Château de Lourmarin. This week on Thursday Aug 22, hear four-handed piano with Irina Chkourindina and Magali Lauron, playing Schubert, Brahms, Ravel and Piazzola. Next up, on Monday Aug 26, hear Andrei Korobeinikov on piano, playing Schumann and Rachmaninov. The festival continues through October 12 and all the info is here.

Special Evenings at the Caumont in Aix

At the fantastic Hotel de Caumont (aka the Caumont Art Center) in Aix, the summer show, "Masterpieces from the Guggenheim Foundation" runs until Sept 29. A special way to see it is on a Friday night, when the museum stays open late and offers a more exclusive experience with Champagne, live music, an optional dinner on the terrace and more. Tickets must be booked in advance, at the museum or here. Or, see the Guggenheim show on a Wednesday or Saturday and stay on to hear live jazz in the garden. The concerts start at 7:30 pm and your 20€ entry includes a glass of Champagne. Info on the jazz concerts is here. 

Grape Stomps at Les Pastras

And none too soon! Grape stomping starts up again on Sept 2 at Les Pastras in the Southern Luberon and runs until roughly Sept 30. Your Instagram needs this! Sign up (two people minimum) and tour a Provençal farm, learn how grapes are cultivated and how wine is made, then stomp away in enormous waist-high antique oak barrels with a view of Cezanne's beloved Mt. Ste. Victoire. You'll learn the difference between harvesting wine grapes and table grapes, dance to Piaf, learn French drinking songs and laugh a lot...guaranteed! Afterwards you'll enjoy platters of cheese, pâté and charcuterie; all you care to drink of Les Pastras rosé and red wines; and a tasting of the farm's olive oil and truffle oils. Price: 60€ pp adults, 40€ pp kids. Offered weekdays at 10 am or 6 pm but please book at least a week in advance. All details are here.

Grace of Monaco To Open Cannes Film Fest

The 67th annual Cannes Film Festival is coming up May 14 to 25th and of course it totally takes over the town; this year 200,000 people are expected. The opening night film is Olivier Dahan's Grace of Monaco, with Nicole Kidman as Grace Kelly. Unfortunately, all the fancy screenings and parties are for industry insiders only...not for you. But Cannes is primo for people watching with the best celebrity sightings at the red carpet entrance to the Palais des Festivals and at the Bar des Celebrites at the Carlton. And, as in years past, there are definitely open-to-the-public events around town that will let you feel the buzz, even if you can't actually hang with Scarlett, Sarah Jessica, Sofia and Sophia, all of whom will be there. Here are two of them.

“Cinema de la Plage” is a free, nightly movie screening under the stars, on Macé Beach, next to the Palais des Festivals. Shows begin around 9:30 pm (''usually'') and no tickets are needed. Yep, just show up. And because your comfort is paramount to me, I inquired about seats and blankets and was told that both will be available...if you arrive early of course. Here's the schedule: 

15 May Eight and a Half, Fellini 1963
16 May For a Few Dollars More, Leone, 1965
17 May The Good, The Bad & The Ugly, Leone 1966
18 May United Passions, Auburtin 2014
19 May Seconds, Frankenheimer 1966
20 May The Warriors, Hill 1979
21 May La Folie des Grandeurs, Oury 1971
22 May Polyester, Waters 1981
23 May Pulp Fiction, Tarantino 1994
24 May Purple Rain, Magnola 1984 

More info about Cinema de la Plage appears here.

And once again, the American Club of the Riviera will be hosting their fabulous Film Festival Lunch in Cannes on May 17.  The reception starts at noon and will be followed by a four-course meal; insights will be provided by film-world insiders and there will also be a quiz.  It's all held  at the Belle Plage Restaurant and everyone is welcome. Details are on the ACR website here...or you can contact BGintell@aol.com for info.  Seats for non-members are 59€ each but book soon as they're almost sold out.

My friend Jackie Pressman has lived in Cannes 14 years and looks forward the festival every year. Last year she told me that if they enter a drawing, locals can get special invites to come to certain red-carpet screenings...apparently it's the Mayor’s way of apologizing for all the traffic, crowds and commotion. "But the truth is the festival is exciting," Jackie says, "and we all love it down here. Many non-industry people come just to soak up the atmosphere." 

Grace of Monaco is set to hit U.K. theaters on June 6, with Warner Bros. distributing the film there. The film doesn't have a U.S. release date yet as the Weinstein Company pulled it from its 2014 release calendar back in January. Apparently there's been a dispute between director Olivier Dahan and Harvey Weinstein, with the former saying that his film is finished but that he doesn't want to sign off on the version that Weinstein wants like to release. "There are two versions of the film at this moment," Olivier told Libération in fall 2013, "mine and his … which I find catastrophic." Dahan also accused Weinstein of creating a Grace of Monaco trailer that doesn’t reflect the film, later insisting that the actual film conform to its trailer. 

But that's hardly the only controversy surrounding the film. The Independent reports that the Royal Family is ''furious'' about the movie...that Prince Albert is "spoiling for a right royal row"...and that Albert and his sisters feel the director completely ignored their feelings by making the film about their beloved mother in the first place. You can read the Independent article here and see the the UK trailer for Grace of Monaco here.

Posters:  Up top is the French poster for Grace of Monaco, below it is the English version. Between them is the 2014 Cannes Film Festival poster, designed by Lagency / Taste, Paris, based on a photogram from Federico Fellini's 8½. The organizers explain the choice: "In his films, Marcello Mastroianni continued to encapsulate everything that was most innovative, nonconformist and poetic about cinema." On seeing the poster for the first time, Chiara Mastroianni, the actor’s daughter, said  “I am very proud and touched that Cannes has chosen to pay tribute to my father with this poster. I find it very beautiful and modern, with a sweet irony and a classy sense of detachment. It’s really him through and through!”  

Mondovino: Film, Tasting + Talk Sept. 20

Dear Reader, after posting this story yesterday, I just received word that this event has been cancelled due to unforeseen circumstances. Chateau La Coste hopes to reschedule at a later date and apologizes for any inconvenience.

On Friday September 20, the wine domaine Chateau La Coste will screen the documentary Mondovino and Yvonne Hégoburu (of Domaine de Souch in the Jurançon appellation) will be present to share her experiences. Madame Hégoburu is one of the "stars" of the film and she appears alongside wine-world superstars such as the Mondavi clan (Robert, Magrit, Michael, Tim), the Antinori clan (Albiera, Allegra, Lodovico, Piero), Jean-Charles Boisset, Marquis Dino Frescobaldi, Michael Broadbent, Robert Parker and many others. 

After the screening, there will be a tasting of Madame Hégoburu's white wines, considered to be among the great sweet wines of France. 

The evening will finish with a buffet of charcuterie and cheese, accompanied by the wines of Château La Coste. 

Mondovino, by Jonathan Nossiter, was an Official Selection at Cannes in 2004. Nossiter is a filmmaker and winemaker who grew up between France, Italy, Greece and India. From Napa Valley to Burgundy to Italy, Mondovino explores wine-world issues across three continents, from conflicts and rivalries between families to struggles for the preservation of the land. 

Yvonne Hégoburu and her husband René built their home in an idyllic spot on the top of a hill at the foot of the Pyrenees, about 6km from the town of Pau. They enjoyed many happy years there together and dreamed of having a vineyard one day. René passed away before he could see it realized but in 1987, at the age of 60, Yvonne launched Domaine de Souch in his memory and planted her first vines. Her very first wine won a gold medal in Paris. Converted to organic and biodynamic techniques in 1994, the domaine produces dry and sweet white wines of exceptional quality, using the grape varieties typical of the region. The wines are a blend of 70% Petit Manseng, 20% Gros Manseng and small quantities of Petit Courbu.

Château La Coste, meanwhile, is an unique 600-acre estate roughly ten minutes north of Aix, in the agricultural village of Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade. People call it the ''starchitect'' winery as it has a large visitors center designed by Tadao Ando, plus numerous installations and buildings crafted by luminaries such as Jean Nouvel and Frank Gehry. Sculptures on the property are by Richard Serra, Louise Bourgeous and others, while artists with work on view include Alexander Calder, Michael Stipe, Andy Goldsworthy, Paul Matisse and more. 

While the newest incarnation of Château La Coste is just two years old, there's been agriculture and winemaking here as far back as Roman times. On the property are cobbled Gallo-Roman pathways, dry stone walls, bridges, underground wells...and the vestiges of an intricate watering system currently undergoing restoration. A lovely Venetian villa in a rosy pink hue has stood here since 1682. 

It was in 2004 that the current Irish owners decided to transform the domaine into a peaceful and inspiring place where art, architecture and the terrain would blend seamlessly. The idea had already been successful in the Basque city of Álava, headquarters of Vinos del Marqués de Riscal, where Frank Gehry was commissioned to build a hotel. Here in France, the owners expanded on that idea, inviting artists and architects from all over the world to “visit, explore and find a place upon the estate that inspired them to create.” New buildings are coming from Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, while other additions--such as a small hotel--are being discussed. 

To see the major features of the property, plan for a two-hour stroll with some gravel and gentle hills. And consider staying on for a meal...my friends and I loved everything about our lunch here last November: the sunshine on the terrace, the calm of the reflecting pool, the excellent food, the wine (of course!) and the gracious warmth of our server. Make sure to also leave time for perusing the art and architecture books in the alcove by the front desk. 

Château La Coste is open for self-guided visits year round (you'll be provided with a map) while guided visits are available in English, by reservation. In season, scheduled English-language tours are offered on Friday, Saturday and Sundays at 1 p.m. More info and admission prices can be found on the bi-lingual website.

General Info 

Château La Coste, 2750 Route de la Cride, Le Puy Sainte Reparade, contact@chateau-la-coste.com, tel 04 42 61 89 98. GPS coordinates on the website, chateau-la-coste.com.

Info for Sept 20 Event
The screening of Mondovino is free. The buffet, wine and tasting presented by Yvonne Hégoburu is 30€ per person. More info and reservations are by phone (04 42 61 92 92) or online at chateau-la-coste.com. Places are limited and reservations are advised.

6:30 pm: Welcome and refreshments on the wine shop terrace.
7 pm: Screening commences in the tasting room
9:30 pm: Tasting with Yvonne Hégoburu in the wine shop
9:50 pm: Buffet on the wine shop terrace

Yes You Can Do Cannes...Sort Of!

The 66th annual Cannes Film Festival is coming up May 15 to 26th and of course it totally takes over the town; this year 200,000 people are expected. Unfortunately, the screenings and parties are for industry insiders only...not for you. But there are definitely open-to-the-public events around town that will let you feel the buzz, even if you can't actually hang with Woody Allen and the Jolie-Pitts. Here are two of them.

“Cinema de la Plage” is a free, nightly outdoor movie screening held on Macé Beach, next to the Palais des Festivals. Shows begin around 9:30 pm (''usually'') and no tickets are needed. Yep, just show up. And because your comfort is paramount to me, I inquired about seats and blankets and was told that both will be available. A schedule for Cinema de la Plage will posted on the festival website here shortly before the fest begins. 

And once again, the American Club of the Riviera will be hosting their fabulous Film Festival Lunch in Cannes. I've never been but I hear it's tons of fun. It's May 18 at the Belle Plage Restaurant and all are welcome. Details will be posted on the ACR website and Facebook page soon. Or, contact BGintell@aol.com for info. 

If you live in Cannes or own property there, my friend Jackie Pressman (who's been there 13 years) has some interesting info on her website here. For example, there are special invitations from the Town Hall for locals to come to certain red-carpet screenings...but you have to enter a drawing. It's the Mayor’s way of giving back to compensate for all the inconvenience of the traffic, crowds and commotion. "But it's so exciting!" Jackie says. "We all love it. And many non-industry people come just to soak up the great atmosphere.'' By the way, if you need an apartment or villa in Cannes or have property to rent out, Jackie can definitely help.

This year's Cannes Film Festival opens May 15 with Baz Luhrmann's The Great Gatsby, which will be shown in 3D. Steven Spielberg will chair the festival jury,  while French actress Audrey Tautou will preside over the opening and closing ceremonies. The full website in English is here. 

Poster: This year's poster features Joanne Woodward and Paul Newman, photographed during the shooting of A New Kind of Love by Melville Shavelson in 1963. The photo was remastered and redesigned by the Bronx Agency (based in Paris), who added a kinetic element, toying with the impression of movement and depth in order to enhance the cinematographic effect.

Monet, Renoir, Chagall...in Les Baux

What used to be the Cathedrale des Images is now the Carrières de Lumières...the Quarries of Light...a magical space in a vast cave-like quarry at the base of the village of Les Baux. And their new sound and light show is about to begin. It's called ''Monet, Renoir...Chagall: Journeys Around the Mediterranean'' and you have almost a year to see it: it runs from March 8, 2013 to January 5, 2014. 

The Cathedrale closed in 2011 and re-opened a year ago, with new management (the folks at Culturespaces) and state-of-the-art technology. Rumor has it that more than €2 million was spent to refurbish the 5000-square-meter site at the time; the last show (''Gauguin, Van Gogh: Painters of Color'') drew great reviews and 239,000 people came to see it. Now, thanks to further improvements done in advance of the new show, close to 100 video projectors will generate the carefully choreographed movement of 3,000 images over an area of more than 7,000 square meters, onto walls as high as 14 meters (45 feet), onto the ceilings and even the floor. 

Here's what Culturespaces says about ''Monet, Renoir...Chagall: Journeys Around the Mediterranean'':

''In the second half of the 19th century, many artists left Paris and the North behind, attracted by the light of the South, setting up their easels between the Spanish border and the Italian Riviera. Their artistic personalities were revealed through the contact with seascapes portraying the Mediterranean coast which they depicted in a wide diversity of styles. After a prologue devoted to Joseph Vernet, visitors will be plunged in seven sequences into the world of the Impressionists, with Monet and Renoir, the Pointillists, with Signac and Cross, the Fauves, with Camoin, Derain, Vlaminck, Friesz, Manguin, Marquet and Valtat, etc....and of course Matisse. You'll also discover the palette of bright colours used by Bonnard and Dufy, ultimately coming to one of the most important colourists of modern art: Chagall. All together you'll see, through dramatic projections, 15 artists' impressions of the Mediterranean and its extraordinary light.'' 

The Carrières de Lumières is located in the Val d’Enfer, a stone's throw from Les Baux. The quarry was created over the years for extracting the white limestone used in the construction of the village of Les Baux and its chateau. In 1935, economic competition from modern materials led to the closure of the quarries. Dramatic and otherworldly looking, the area has inspired artists of all sorts; the Val d'Enfer provided the setting for Dante’s Divine Comedy and Gounod created his opera Mireille here. Later, Cocteau came to film The Testament of Orpheus in these very quarries. The Carrières du Val d’Enfer has been awarded Natural Monument status in France. 

The Carrières de Lumières are open every day from 9.30 am to 7 pm (March to September) and from 10 am to 6 pm (October to January).

Carrières de Lumières 
Route de Maillane  
13520 Les Baux de Provence 
Tel. : +33 4 90 54 47 37
carrieres-lumieres.com
message@carrieres-lumieres.com

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French Food Film Now Playing in U.S.

The film Entre Les Bras, which was released in France in March and Germany in August, has now come to the U.S. It's in French with English subtitles and it tells the story of Michel Bras, one of the most influential chefs in the world, who has decided to hand over his renowned Michelin three-star restaurant to his son Sébastien. Having worked with his father for 15 years, Sébastien is ready. But turns out it’s not so easy to take over the family business when your father is, well, Michel Bras...one of just 26 chefs in France currently holding Michelin's highest accolade. Filmed in Laguiole in the gorgeous Aubrac region of the South of France, home to the Bras family for generations, Step Up To The Plate (as the it's titled for the U.S. market), offers ''a rare glimpse into the Bras’ culinary process while capturing one of the most closely watched transitions in haute cuisine.'' The film has been selected for more than 30 film festivals worldwide to date.

Director Paul Lacoste has taught film directing for 15 years in Toulouse and at the same time, has directed shorts and medium-length works of fiction. In 2010, he wrote a play about religion and family, directed it, and adapted it for the cinema under the title Les Eaux Fortes. As an amateur cook and lifelong fan of Michel Bras’ cuisine, Lacoste asked the legendary chef if he could make ''a film portrait'' of him when he received his third Michelin star in 1999. This marked the start of a documentary series about nine major French chefs called Inventing Cuisine. In 2010, Lacoste approached Michel and Sébastien with the idea of a feature-length documentary--his first--about the handing-over of the restaurant. To make Step Up to the Plate, Lacoste trailed father and son for a year and edited it into four chapters: Summer, Autumn, Winter and Spring.

The New Yorker praised the movie as ''an intimate and immaculate film'' while the New York Times said ''If Step Up to the Plate were fiction, its players would deserve an award for best ensemble performance.'' Another review, in the Washington Post, is here.

The movie opened in New York a few weeks ago and is now working its way across the U.S.; it already came out in Taiwan and Spain and will also be coming to Canada soon. To see a list of U.S. cities and release dates, click here; more cities are being added so check back. (Unfortunately neither the U.S. nor the French distributor has info about the film's release date in other countries.) But for more on the film, check out the website and trailer or the Facebook page.

Above: Posters for the U.S. and French version of the film.

Princess Grace: On Film and In Provence

Action! The cameras have just begun rolling here in France for Grace of Monaco, the new movie with Nicole Kidman playing Grace Kelly. The story centers on a six-month period in 1962 when French Prime Minister Charles de Gaulle and Monaco's Prince Rainier III were at odds over the opulent principality's standing as a tax haven. The Philadelphia-born Kelly, who had quit Hollywood to marry the Prince in 1955, was said to have been instrumental in helping to sort out the political hoo-ha. The film is directed by Olivier Dahan, whose Edith Piaf biopic La Vie en Rose earned Marion Cotillard the Academy Award for Best Actress in 2008. Princess Grace died in a car accident in 1982 (her daughter Stephanie survived the crash) and it's said the funeral was watched on TV by 30 million people. Speaking of 30 million, that's the estimated budget for the film. Following her appearance at the Emmys on Sunday night, Kidman joined the cast at the Victorine Studio in Nice, which is where Alfred Hitchcock filmed Kelly opposite Cary Grant in 1955’s To Catch a Thief.

The film is slated for a 2014 release. Tim Roth will play Prince Rainer III and Paz Vega will appear as Grace Kelly's friend and confidante, the opera legend Maria Callas. Frank Langella is set to play Father Tucker, the priest who set Rainer and Kelly up and served as an important adviser to the couple throughout their relationship. Parker Posey plays the scheming social climber Madge Tivey-Faucon, Grace's lady-in-waiting who ''couldn't wait to sell unflattering tell-alls to the French press once she left Kelly's employ.'' Milo Ventimiglia plays Grace's publicist Rupert Allan, who served as consul general for the principality of Monaco and was made a Chevalier of the Order of Grimaldi in 1989.

If the life of Princess Grace interests you, then this is the perfect time to see The Princess Grace Photo Album in Les Baux de Provence, the striking Medieval hill town in the heart of Provence. It's an exhibit of photos taken by reporters from Paris Match, grouped according to era and subject and hung in three indoor/outdoor spaces around the village: in the courtyard and gallery of the Hotel de Manville (along with letters and other historic memorabilia), in the Jardin de l’îlot Post Tenebras Lux and in La Citerne. The show remains on view until November 15, 2012.

So what's the connection between the Princess and Les Baux?  The show marks the 30th anniversary of the Princess's visit with Prince Albert, the young Marquis de Baux.  In June 1982, the people of Les Baux gave an official reception for Prince Albert of Monaco and presented him with the keys of the town. A bit of history: The barony of Les Baux was raised to the status of a marquisate in 1642 by King Louis XIII, to thank the Prince of Monaco, Hercule de Grimaldi, for his assistance in the fight against the kingdom of Spain. A map of Les Baux was drawn at that time, bearing the arms of Les Baux and Monaco. The Eyguieres gate was raised in the 17th century by the Princes of Monaco. Their coat-of-arms, which was hammered down during the French Revolution, can be seen in a scroll with baroque foliage decoration.To this day,  the Grimaldis continue to contribute to the restoration and enhancement of Les Baux, such as the donation, in 1962, of the stained-glass windows in St. Vincent's Church and the restoration of the frescoes in the Hotel de Porcelet. 

At one time (in the 13th century), the village of Les Baux was home to as many as 3000 people. Now the year-round population is just 22.

To celebrate the opening of The Princess Grace Photo Album, a group of regional dignitaries, tourism authorities and local business owners were welcomed for a private tour and gala luncheon this summer. The guest of honor was Diane E. Kelly, the Consul General of the U.S. in Marseille and Monaco. 

Entrance to the Princess Grace show is free. A guide to the show and the sites pertaining to the history of the Grimaldi Family in Les Baux can be found at the Tourist Office or online here. For more info on the show or Les Baux itself, call (04 90 54 34 39), email (tourisme@lesbauxdeprovence.com) or click here.  

*For still more on Les Baux, you can see two great shots here and here. To read about a Les Baux quarry that does custom stone work, click here.

Photos: (1 & 2) Kelly, left, is being played by Kidman in "Grace of Monaco," which just began filming in France. Photos via MGM/Will Davidson/Swisse via Getty Images. (3) Poster photo by Jack Garofalo/Paris Match. (4 & 5) Large photos from many chapters of Grace Kelly's life are hung in three indoor/outdoor venues in Les Baux. (6, 7, 8) Photos from the show. (9)  Odette Girard, owner of the Les Baux restaurant Bauthezar, greets Diane E. Kelly (Consul General of the U.S. in Marseille and Monaco) in Les Baux this summer, and shows her a photo taken in June 1982 during Grace and Albert's visit.

Rencontres d'Arles Opens Monday July 2

The annual Recontres d'Arles, the fantastic international photo festival, will run July 2 to September 23 in Arles. This year more than 100 photographers have been invited to present 60 different exhibits, lectures and performances. As in years past there will be panel discussions, book signings, open-air screenings, classes, portfolio reviews and more. 

The opening week (the week that many industry professionals attend) will feature a number of special events, such as an evening with Elliott Erwitt alone on stage, presenting his work on an enormous screen in Arles' amazing Théâtre Antique. (Construction of the theater began in the 1st century and was completed in the 12th. And you thought your builder was slow!) The evening with Elliott Erwitt is Thursday July 5 and tickets are €13. Translation will be provided for all evening events in the Théâtre Antique and there will be live music on July 5 as well.

Unique at this year's Rencontres: The photographer members of the legendary press agency Magnum, who get together annually in New York, Paris or London, will celebrate Magnum's 65th anniversary by holding this year's meeting in Arles for the first time. The second half of four opening-week evening programs at the Théâtre Antique (July 3, 4, 5 and 7th) will be dedicated to Magnum photographers and their work. 

The first half of those evenings (starting at nightfall, around 10 pm, on July 3, 4, 5 and 7th), Christian Milovanoff, a photographer and teacher at the École Nationale Supérieure de la Photographie d'Arles since its inception, will give a performance/critical lesson about different photographic genres and the four ''stories'' that preoccupy photographers: the portrait, classification, memory and words. This program (subject varies each evening) is called ''The Evening Milo.''

After ''The Evening Milo'' on Tuesday July 3, you can hear ''Magnum Premier'' (20 top Magnum photographers including Susan Meiseles and Alex Webb talking about their early careers) and ''Looking for America'' in which five Magnum photographers discuss their spring 2012 trip to the U.S. (Tickets: 13€.)  There will be live music this evening as well.

On Wednesday July 4 (13€), Mr. Milovanoff will be followed by a showing of the film La Siecle de Cartier-Bresson (Cartier-Bresson's Century). 

Friday July 6 is called "La Nuit de L'Année" (The Night of The Year) and 14 photographers will be displaying their work on large screens along the Quais de Trinquetaille (Trinquetaille Docks) from 10 pm to 1 am. Come one, come all: it's free. Trinquetaille is the neighborhood on the ''other side'' of the Rhone. The quai has recently been renovated and is a great place to stroll; get there by crossing the Trinquetaille Bridge. (Van Gogh painted the bridge and there's a small plaque showing the painting, on the southern side of the bridge. )

On Saturday July 7 we're back at the Théâtre Antique (€13) for The Evening Milo, followed by a showing of the film French Diary by Claudine Nougaret and Raymond Depardon. That evening, the winner of the Discovery Award--and its €25,000 prize--will be announced, along with other awards.

There has long been a slight tension between the locals in Arles and those that come from around the world to participate in the Rencontres, an unspoken grudge that the town is taken over by "arty types." To help bridge the gap, the organizers of the Rencontres created "La Nuit de L'Année" (see above), featuring exhibitions and slide shows in public spaces. The majority of these were located in the Roquette, one of Arles' oldest neighbourhoods, far off the tourist track. The evening was an immediate success and the locals came out in droves, mixing with professionals late into the night. When the event was moved to the Ateliers SNCF in 2009 (and to the Arena last year), a group formed to sponsor a separate evening (that is no longer affiliated with the Rencontres). The free-styling spirit remains: amateur and professional work is shown side by side, along with short films, music and even a graffiti artist. This year's Nuit de La Roquette takes place on Thursday July 5th, starting at 7pm and lasting until dawn. For more info and a map, click here.

Other activities during opening week include a July 4, 5 and 6 symposium entitled ''The Intensity of Photography'' at the Théâtre d'Arles. It happens every day from 10 am to 1 pm and admission is free. Live translation will be provided. 

For a complete day-by-day schedule of opening week events, of which there are many, click here and then see the column on the left. These include photographers guiding people through their exhibits, book signings, panel discussions, films, workshops and more. A few topics include fashion photography, the future of book publishing, the relevance of Magnum and workshops on Olympus cameras. All opening week events are simultaneously translated into English and other languages.

Also of note: From July 2 to 7 in the Archbishop's Palace Courtyard, the alternative festival-within-a-festival called Voies Off celebrates up-and-coming photographers with screenings and exhibits. This year they honor the Voies Off Selections Prize, photography from the Nordic countries and the 30th anniversary of the National Photography School. Info on Voies Off is here and available by calling +33 (0)4 90 96 93 82.

General tickets and passes for the Rencontres start at €3.50 to €11 for a single exhibit entry. A €27 day pass (valid July 2 to September 23) gives you one entry per exhibit. A full festival pass (one entry per exhibit from July 2 to September 23) is €35. A one- week pass offering unlimited access to all exhibitions July 2 to 8 is €45. A pass for the month of September only is €27. A €60 pass for industry pros provides unlimited access to all exhibits and evening screenings from July 2 to 8, except July 7. 

Tickets for all Recontres events are available at a number of locations in Arles including the Place de la République, the Espace Van Gogh and the Parc des Ateliers. The main festival ticket office is at #34 rue du docteur Fanton. All ticket offices are open 10 am to 7 pm daily. They're also online here.

Meanwhile, weekend photo workshops sponsored by the Rencontres will continue throughout the summer. See that specific schedule here. 

For all the Rencontres info in English, including exhibition schedules, other activities, maps and ticketing, click here. You can also call +33 (0)4 90 96 76 06 or email: info@rencontres-arles.com. But wait, there's more! You can learn about the Rencontres app for iPhone here and follow the Rencontres on Twitter too: @rencontresarles.

Images: Festival posters have become collectors' items. One of Eliott Erwitt's most-iconic images, ''Felix, Gladys and Rover,'' taken in 1974. Opening week poster. Mexicans stopped trying to cross the U.S. border, photographed in San Ysidro, California in 1979 by Alex Webb. Poster for this years Nuit de la Roquette.