Write Your Heart Out in Provence

In all my years as a book lover I remember writing just a handful of fan letters to authors...and Richard Goodman was one of them. Something about his 1991 book, French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France, really grabbed me. That was maybe 15 years ago and we've stayed in touch ever since. So I was delighted when Richard told me he was returning to Provence to lead a writing workshop this coming summer...and even more delighted to learn it would be hosted by the non-profit Maine Media Workshops + College (MMW).

The school is based in Rockport, Maine and was formerly known as the Maine Photographic Workshops. While I've only been lucky enough to take one of their workshops, I know many people who've studied or taught there and the school gets top reviews all around.

Launched in 1973 offering photography only, MMW has since added a wide range of subjects such as film/video, book arts, writing, poetry and more. (School president Meg Weston describes what they teach as "the art and craft of storytelling.") They have a full calendar of courses in Maine, plus travel workshops (like the one I took in Provence in the late '90s), a 30-week certificate program and an MFA program that’s been rated in the top 100 fine arts graduate programs in the U.S. They offer courses at all levels, from absolute beginner and serious amateur to working professional. Every time their new catalog comes out I see ten classes I'd love to take!

But back to Richard's upcoming workshop...

Called Inspire Your Writing in Provence,  it's devoted to "exploring how this delicious corner of France can stir the senses and inspire the imagination with its light, its scents, its sights and sounds." The dates are June 24 to 29, 2018.

Richard tells me he designed it for anyone who loves to write...memoir, food writing, travel writing, personal essays or anything else...whether they're deep into a project or just beginning. "This is a chance for you to experience 'the magic' with like-minded people and really just write your heart out," he says.

The group will stay together at the charming hotel Clos de Buis in Bonnieux, one of the famously gorgeous hilltowns of the Luberon region. (I mention the hotel in my recent Luberon story here.) Mornings will be devoted to talks about craft and writing exercises. "And of course we’ll read about the region, about its storied history—its art, food and wine," Richard says. "And we’ll learn about the wild, lovely country nearby." Afternoons will be spent exploring Bonnieux and nearby villages, taking in scenery, history, culture, lavender and more. Most students will likely arrive early or stay on for additional travel.

Richard is currently living and teaching in New Orleans but he has twice spent a year in the South of France: first in a small village near Nîmes and then in Sanary-sur Mer on the Mediterranean coast. His stories about French food and culture have appeared in The New York Times, Saveur, Creative Nonfiction, French Review and Grand Tour. He has taught at MMW's  home base up in Maine-- and will teach there again this summer--but this will be his first workshop in Provence. 

Well-known cookbook author Nancy Harmon Jenkins took Richard's workshop in Rockport last summer and loved it. "This is a wonderful opportunity," she says. "Richard is a fine, provocative, inspiring teacher." 

All the workshop details are on the MMW site here; please note the discount for early booking. If you have questions, Meg (mweston@mainemedia.edu) or Richard (richardgoodman711@gmail.com) will be happy to help. 

Hope to see you this summer in Provence!

Photos: (1) The workshop takes place in Bonnieux, the highest perched village in the Luberon. Bonnieux’s steep upper streets are lined with 800-year-old buildings, most of  them built atop older structures and ancient caves; from the peak you get a spectacular view. The village has an upper and lower church, so folks who lived in the valley, back in the day, didn’t have to climb all the way up top to attend mass. This is the lower or "new" church, built in 1870. (2, 3)  Students will stay at Le Clos de Buis, a perfect little hotel with a super-warm vibe.  The photos show breakfast and a guestroom. (4) The famous 86 steps leading up to the 12th-century "old" church in Bonnieux...and fantastic views. (5) The hotel has a large lovely garden and pool. (6) Looking north from Bonnieux: the mighty Mont Ventoux, “the Giant of Provence,” well known for many grueling stages of the annual Tour de France. (7) We've all see a million photos of lavender fields in Provence but this is one of my favorites; see the story behind it here.  The Luberon's lavender fields should be at their peak--or close--during the workshop dates. (8) In the nearby village of Menerbes, local rosés on display at Maison de la Truffe et du Vin. (9) The irresistible antique shop directly opposite the hotel: resistance is futile. (10) The ochre cliffs of the nearby village of Roussillon. (11) Richard and his students in Rockport this past summer; photo by Gussan Jalil.

Drone Photography in Provence

This gorgeous shot of a Provence lavender field at harvest time, taken by London-based French photographer Jerome Courtial, has won 1st Prize (Nature category) in the 4th Annual International Drone Photography Contest.  He calls it "Summer Trim" and you can click to enlarge.

The contest is organized by Dronestagram, the France-based drone-photo sharing website, in partnership with National Geographic. They received 8,000 entries this year, with submissions split into four categories: Nature, Urban, People and Creativity. You can see all the 2017 winners here.

The shot was taken near Valensole in mid July last year, using a Phantom 4 camera drone. "We were just driving without a specific destination in mind," Jerome tells me, "and I was looking for nice compositions. I was especially keeping an eye out for tractors as they would provide a focal point. A lavender field from above would just look like a purple carpet without something else on it. That’s when we found this beautiful field and two tractors that looked like they were about to start work on it. I just had time to start the drone and follow them until they had achieved the composition I wanted!"

You can learn more about Jerome on his websites here and here. The first focuses on his main business, which is taking photos and videos for hotels. The second site provide lots of great tips for taking better drone photos.  You can also find him on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. To reach him directly: jcourtial@yahoo.co.uk.  

Interested in learning to fly a drone yourself? A small group of drone pilots in St. Remy is offering two-hour lessons for beginners, in a field adjacent to the hotel Château des Alpilles. According to licensed drone pilot and instructor Nathalie Freysz, drones are being used by farmers to check their fields, crops and animals; by property owners who want video for insurance or tax purposes; by homeowners to promote rentals or sales...and most of all, just for fun. The group uses Hexacopter DJI 550 drones equipped with GoPro video cameras; a two-hour lesson for two people costs 200€ and includes a souvenir photo or video. The classes can be booked on demand, year round, with group prices and multi-lesson packages are available. For more info: natfreysz@yahoo.com.

Love Lavender? Try This!

Game on! The lavender is finally in bloom in Provence and over the next month or so I hope to share with you a couple fun ways you can experience it. Here's one...

Born in Paris, Elsa Lenthal now lives in Les Baux de Provence where, for 10 years or so, she's been making fresh lavender wands every summer. She sells them in local markets (see schedule below), in luxury hotels and on her website. And she's just written to tell me that, for the first time this year, she's offering workshops for people who want to make their own. 

The wands--known as fuseaux--are an 18th-century Provencal tradition still popular today. Used to perfume drawers and linens while keeping moths away, they were a popular part of the bridal trousseau, representing love and happiness. They're handmade with fresh lavender, from mid June to mid September, and they keep their natural aroma for years. (Gently squeezing the wand from time to time releases more fragrance.) Lavandin is the preferred variety of lavender, because of its high essential-oil content.

After harvest, the flowers must be worked quickly while they're still supple. The stems are folded back to make a protective case for the fragrant blossoms...and the weaving of the ribbons requires great dexterity.

Sign up for a workshop and Elsa will show up at your hotel or rental villa with her basket of freshly cut lavender and lots of colorful ribbons. "At the workshop's end," she says, "you'll have a souvenir of Provence which for many years will scent your home and revive your memories." Or, if you prefer, you can request your workshop outdoors overlooking the olive trees at Elsa's house, five minutes from Les Baux.

Lavender wand workshops are offered mid June to mid September and last about 2.5 hours. Price: 45€ per person, three people minimum.

As of about June 25, you'll find Elsa making and selling fuseaux in the following markets: Tuesday in Gordes, Wednesday in St Remy, Thursday in Maussane, Friday in Eygalières and Saturday in Uzes. 

Elsa Lenthal

+33 (0)6 13 17 46 46

elsa@fuseauxdelavande.com

fuseauxdelavande.com

facebook.com/fuseauxdelavande

Photos: Elsa's promo piece shows her out in the fields gathering lavender, a fuseau being carefully woven and finished fuseaux in various colors.

Painting Workshops in Provence in 2016

Many of my readers and clients ask about painting classes in Provence...and I've lined up some great instructors who are happy to give half- and full-day lessons for travelers. (Interested? Email me: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com) But if you're thinking of something longer and more comprehensive, you might consider a multi-day workshop...meaning, a trip devoted mostly or entirely to painting. Most last about a week, there are many offered this year all over Provence and a sampling appears below. I can't tell you which are best as I haven't experienced any of them myself. I've chosen these because they're either led by painters I know and admire...or they were recommended by people I trust...or they look really promising online. For specific questions, contact the organizer or instructor directly. And if you have another workshop to promote or recommend anywhere in the South of France, feel free leave the info and a link by clicking "comments" below this story. (The best way to comment is to choose Name/URL. Put your name as the name, put your website as the URL...then fire away.) In the next month or so, I hope to share some photography workshops as well. 

For those looking to avoid the heat and the crowds of summer, Penelope Anstice will lead a one-week workshop in Eygalieres, from April 3 to 10. Eygalieres is a small, very beautiful village 15 minutes east of St. Remy, about an hour north of Marseille. You can see all the info by clicking Penelope's name above or by checking her website here.

British artist Julian Merrow-Smith lives and paints in Provence full time. I think his work is exquisite and so do the thousands of people who follow his "Postcard from Provence" online art auctions. In 2016, he'll be offering seven- and eight-night painting getaways with his wife Ruth Phillips, a writer and musician, in May, July and October."There are no frills to this workshop," Julian says. "We usually visit one of the local markets; otherwise the week is all about painting—talking, living and breathing it together. Our aim, above all, is to give you the experience of living the painter's life in the south of France." The group stays in the lovely restored priory/B&B called La Madelene, in the countryside at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Julian also offers "self-catering" painting retreats for smaller budgets, for up to six people who stay in his rental house near Mont Ventoux. The full painting kit is provided (as it is in the workshops) and Julian is available to paint with the guests for up to three hours per day. For info on the worishops, click here.  For info on the independent stays, email: ruth@wintermane.

Jill Steenhuis is an Atlanta-born, French Impressionistic painter who lives in Aix en Provence, where she taught painting and drawing (at the American University) for ten years. In addition to leading Cezanne and Van Gogh walking tours for American museums and art lovers,  Jill offers week-long oil painting workshops in the Provencal countryside for all ability levels. (For those who share her passion for Cezanne and Van Gogh, special arrangements can be made to paint on the very sites where they did.)  "My joy comes from watching the beginner or more advanced painter climb a mountain in their creative way and in their inner soul," she says. Students may bring their own equipment or Jill will provide it. All ability levels are welcome and full details are on her site here.

French Escapade is offering seven different eight-day painting vacations in Provence this year--each led by a different instructor--plus one in the French Alps, one on the French Riviera and one in Giverny. Choose from oil painting, watercolor or journal sketching. Groups are seven to 12  students max. "We usually stay at the same accommodations for the entire tour so you can immerse yourself in the culture, meet the locals and feel at home without having to pack and unpack every day," says company founder Jackie Grandchamps.  "Best of all, we always choose an ideal base location and take you on a wide variety of nearby daily excursions." French Escapade also has workshops this year in Spain, Belgium/Holland and Tuscany; they'll add the Loire Valley in 2017. For all the details, click here.

This year, Workshops in France and The Art Engine are offering two uninstructed 10-Day Painting Retreat for Artists, led by Scottish artist Julie Snyder. There's one in June ("Lavender Season") and one in September ("Glorious Provence").  The package includes 10 days of artistic immersion (mentoring available) and daily painting sessions in locations such as private vineyards, charming villages, markets, on the Van Gogh trail, St. Remy and Les Baux and more. You'll stay in a château above the hillside village of Chateauneuf de Gadagne, not far from Avignon and the Luberon, and there's plenty to do for non-painting travel partners as well.  Click here for details.

Since 1990, David and Liz Atkinson have run Arts in Provence in the tiny hamlet of Les Bassacs, with its commanding views over  the Luberon Mountains and the Vaucluse. Surrounded by cherry orchards, vineyards and olive groves, Les Bassacs is within easy reach of the well-known Luberon villages of Gordes, Lacoste and Bonnieux. Workshops of varying lengths are led by different artists, reflecting a wide range of styles and themes. This year there are eleven of them, between late April and late September. All the info is here.

Ian Roberts is an Iowa-based artist leading two "Plein Air Painting in Provence" workshops this year. "No place continues to call me to paint like Provence does," he says. "And of course I'm not alone. Corot, Bonnard, van Gogh, Gaugain, Matisse, Cézanne and Picasso all came to live and work here. I know you too will love the quality of light, the folds of the earth, the old stone farm buildings and medieval hilltop villages, the poplars and cypresses." Workshops are based in the medieval village of Le Barroux, a place "so rich visually, so full of possibilities, each day you'll find something that sings to you." Lodging is in the village's only hotel, which has just 11 rooms. "Dinners are served on the terrace overlooking the valley below," Ian says. "With the sun setting after a long day of painting--and wine from just down the road--it's a great way to end the day." Info on Ian's workshops is here. 

Tessa Baker--who has lived in Provence since 1985--offers week-long watercolor workshops at her home in Lorgues, in the Var. Here you'll be surrounded by beauty, as vineyards, rolling hills and fields (lavender, sunflowers, poppies) surround the farmhouse Tessa shares with her husband David. Meanwhile chef Anna prepares the meals, served with wines from top chateaux, some of which are in walking distance. "And our picnics have certainly stolen a few hopeful glances, especially when we set up our table in the port of St Tropez!" Tessa says. Visits to the famous Gorges de Verdun, the village of Moustiers, the wine domaine Mas des Brun in Bandol and of course a local market are all part of the trip. The group paints at least six hours, most days. "We all have such a lovely time together and become such good friends," Tessa says, "it's hard to say goodbye." For info: tessabakerart@gmail.com or +33 6 11 25 29 72. You might also enjoy her blog here. 

"Whatever your reason is for opening up to a creative pursuit," says artist Andrew Petrov, " there is no better place to learn, practice, and enjoy the process of painting than in Provence!" This summer, in the picturesque and historic village of Saignon (which he considers his second home), Andrew is inviting painters of all levels to  "live and breathe art" with like-minded travelers. (He lived in Saignon full time before moving back to the US in 2012 ...and has offered workshops there since 2001.)  One of his 2016 workshops is already full, but the one scheduled for June 19 to 29 still has space. "If you know Saignon, you know it's the perfect setting for plein-air painting," he says, "and these dates should be ideal for lavender seekers." You'll find more info on Andrew's website here or contact him directly: monsieurandrewpetrov@gmail.com

Milan-based painter Francesco Fontana will teach in Provence again in 2016, as he has done since 2008. You'll stay in Isle sur la Sorgue, a charming village with a river running through it, known for its 250+ antique vendors and large Sunday market. Exact workshop dates will be announced soon but you can see the details--and Francesco's workshop in Paris and Giverny--on his website here. 

British artist Jill Douglas will teach a class at the legendary artists studios Ateliers Fourwinds on the outskirts of the pretty little town of Aureille, not far from Maussane and Arles. The property was formerly a quail farm and is surrounded by olive trees at the foot of Les Alpilles, the small mountain range in the Bouches-du-Rhône. “When I spent time painting here, it was life changing," Jill says. "After painting every day for two weeks I knew I was breaking through to a new level in my work.” Jill has created a course for artists of all levels from complete beginner to advanced, with work taking place in the studio as well as outside in the surrounding countryside. Accommodation is either at the Fourwinds or a nearby hotel and transport will be provided for excursions, for instance to the beautiful market in Mouriés, where students can browse, shop and sketch, perhaps taking photos to paint from at the studio. "My focus in teaching is to help the individual student develop and express their own visual voice," Jill continues. "We will do constructive group and individual critiques after painting at the studio, which will enable you to criticise your own work more effectively and learn to know when you are finished – the much asked question.” For info: paintinprovence2016.com. 

Finally...Atelier Provence 2016 combines a seven-day painting workshop in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence with a four-day art history tour in Barcelona...a fine opportunity to paint, learn art history, discuss and enjoy Provencal famous cuisine and wines in the land of Cézanne and Picasso. Their July 2016 trip is full (with a waiting list) but the trip will be offered again July 1 to 12, 2017. Check it out here.

Photos: (1) Painting the village of Gordes with Workshops in France. (2) A painting by Brenda Swenson, who will teach this summer with French Escapade. (3) Whoever takes the group portraits of the Workshop in France students has a great eye. (4) "Avignon Mobylette" by Julie Snyder, workshop leader at Workshops in France. (5) "Le Vieux Port in the Rain," a 2015 oil-on-canvas by Jill Steenhuis, who leads workshops in the Aix countryside. (6) Jill, second from left, with students. (7,8) Painting in Cucuron and out in the lavender fields with Arts in Provence, which is hosting 11 workshops this year with different instructors. (9)  Arts in Provence students stay in David and Liz Atkinson's home...and swim in this glorious pool. (10-12) Three paintings by French Escapade instructors: Tracy Lewis, Evelyn Dunphy and Frank Eber. (13) One of Julian Merrow-Smiths recent groups; men are very welcome too! (14) Julian's groups stay at La Madelene; here's a guestroom. (15) Julian and his group picnic-ing...and looking very painterly. (16. 17) Two paintings I love by Julian Merrow-Smith. (18, 19) Students in an Ian Roberts workshop. (20) Lunch during Ian's workshops is always  "the most delicious, simple Provencal food," made by this owner of a local B&B and served on an outdoor terrace. (21) Ian likes to take students to the Friday morning market at Carpentras, which has run continuously since the year 1150. (22) Ian's painting of a village just down the road from Le Barroux, where his workshops are based. Call "Below Crillon le Brave" the painting, by coincidence, sold yesterday!

Gigondas Sur Table is Monday July 20

In the heart of the Southern Rhône wine region, the 4th annual Gigondas Sur Table will be Monday July 20. One of the most-popular summer wine events in Provence, it's expected to sell out so be sure to book early. This year, 42 local winemakers and domaines will be pouring, while five top Provencal chefs tempt the crowd with small plates of signature dishes, made from local ingredients reflecting the terroir. Who's cooking? Cyril Glémot (Coteaux & Fourchettes, Cairanne), Jean-Paul Lecroq (La Table de Sorgues, Sorgues), Michel Philibert (Le Gajulea, Le Barroux), Philippe Zemour (Bistro Du'o, Vaison-la-Romaine) and André Sube (Maison Sube Boulangerie, Camaret). The cheese course will come courtesy of beloved purveyor Josiane Déal--a Meilleure Fromagère de France--and kids will be welcomed with a special menu and artisan juices. It all happens on the village square (Place Gabrielle Andeol) in Gigondas, from 7 pm to around 11 pm. Tickets are 50€ per person, 12€ for kids under 12, and reservations are essential. To book, send an email to: promotion@gigondas-vin.com or call + 33 (0) 4 90 37 79 60. To see the press kit in French--it lists all the participating winemakers--click here. For general info on Gigondas and its wines, click here. You can also follow them on Facebook and Twitter.

Georgeanne Brennan's New Labor of Love

Georgeanne Brennan's passion for Provence is well documented, most notably in her books A Pig in Provence (Harcourt and Chronicle Books) and The Food and Flavors of Haute Provence (Chronicle Books), the latter of which won a James Beard Foundation award.  (To see all her books, click here.)

Since 1970, Georgeanne has had a home in the Upper Var region of Provence (a few kilometers from Quinson), where, over the years, she has raised goats, made cheese, run a seasonal cooking school and along the way, became something of an expert on sustainable living. When she's not in France, she lives on a small farm in Northern California.

Now Georgeanne is sharing her passion for food, gardening, history and Provence in an online store called La Vie Rustic.  It officially launched last month, selling a range of products “for the kitchen, barnyard, tool-shed, orchard and field."

La Vie Rustic, she says, is designed to appeal to  “the new wave of backyard and urban gardeners, animal husbandmen and women, home cooks, and anyone, anywhere who, like me, wishes to practice a sustainable lifestyle mindfully producing, cooking, and caring for their own food or even just a small part of it.”

The product line will grow as time goes on. So far, her seed collection includes French Heirloom Lettuce and Chicory Seeds in beautiful letterpress packages, a Chicken Scratch Patch and a field of Red Poppies. 

In the cuisine/kitchen section, she offers fresh and dried sweet bay cut from her own trees, Sel de Figues, Sel d'Abricot, a DIY Roulade (French Pancetta) kit and coming soon, a DIY for Jambon Cru.

In the verger/orchard department, you’ll find one-year-old Sultan de Marabout Fig Trees, grown from cuttings from a tree that was a gift to the United States from the Agricultural Commissioner of Algeria during the first decades of the 20th century.

Every product Georgeanne sells she created herself, often from homegrown fruits and herbs.  All of them, she says, were made “in the spirit of Provence.’’ Coming soon are a hand-crafted sickle with a black-walnut handle…and letter-press holiday cards crafted by a master printer on a Heidleberg press.

This type of business hardly new to Georgeanne.  In the 1980s, she founded the pioneering company Le Marche Seeds, which chef Joyce Goldstein wrote about in her book Inside the California Food Revolution.  She was also the designer and packager for Smith & Hawken's vegetable-and flower-seed packet and planter gift line...and she created private custom seed-and-garden products for Gardener's Eden, a now-closed division of Williams-Sonoma.

And now, Georgeanne is thrilled to be back in the world she loves so much: making and marketing high-quality products, in beautifully designed packages, for those who value the thoughtful,  loving-the-land lifestyle that she does.

"La Vie Rustic is heavily infused with my love for and knowledge of Provence and its way of life,” she says. "I want to share wonderful products for all the areas of our world that make for a sustainable life, in the French style.”

For more info about Georgeanne, you can check out her website, sign up for her newsletter, follow her on Twitter, find her on Facebook or send her an email: contact@lavierustic.com

Photos: (1)  Georgeanne's beloved Provence. (2) Apricot salt.  (3) Pretty plums, on the Vie Rustic site. (4) Goat Cheese with Olive Oil and  Georgeanne's Herbes de Provence. (5) The website is filled with photos and tales of life in Provence. "Taken just before we all sat down to eat dinner," she writes, "this photo (by Sara Remington, from the book Paris to Provence by Ethel Brennan), speaks of the essence of the French kitchen." (6)  A Pig in Provence: "In Provence, my neighbors kept rabbits, guinea hens, geese (which attacked me if I got near them), a few chickens and a pig," Georgeanne continues. "The animals were kept in the barnyard area, behind the stone houses, or adjacent to them. The animals’ shelters were built of stone and had red-tiled roofs, just like the homes..."(7) Lettuce Seed Packets: Scarole Cornet de Bordeaux, Scarole Pain de Sucre, Friée Très Fine Maraichère, Chicorée Sauvage de Verone and more. (8) A salad of frisée, haricot vert and toasted walnuts. (9) Poppies in Provence and (10) the seeds to grow your own patch. (11) French Cooking at Home is Georgeanne's video cooking class; for into on that click here.

Two Big Lavender Festivals Coming Up

Provence produces nearly 80% of the world’s lavender and the famously alluring flower blankets the countryside every  June and July. That’s when lavender perfumes the breeze…lush rows stripe the countryside in soft-violet-to-inky-blue hues...and traffic slows to an escargot’s pace as travelers leap from rented Renaults trying to snap the perfect photo.  Harvesting continues through September and is mostly mechanized although, in some areas, lavender is still cut by hand and collected in cloth sacks slung over the back. Today, about 20,000 acres of lavender flourishes here annually although most of it is reserved for the making of cosmetics and perfumes (the name comes from the Latin lavare: to wash). It’s hard to find a farmhouse in Provence without at least one lavender bush...and if it weren’t for good old Lavandula, many Provencal painters (and postcard makers!) might go broke. Toodling round the South of France you'll find lavender lurking everywhere: in sachets, in digestifs, in dishes savory and sweet.

The best way to experience the purple reign is out in the shimmering fields…but alas you’re too late for that this year. Still, there are plenty of ways to experience lavender this month, such as a visit to the Lavender Museum (Musée de la Lavande) in the Luberon town of Coustellet. They do a great job of explaining the process of lavender production with interesting exhibits and good English info. It’s popular with tour groups, smells great inside, and offers the ultimate “if they made it with lavender, we sell it” gift shop (€6, daily 9 to 7, thelavendermuseum.com, 04 90 76 91 23). It’s just off D-900 toward Gordes.

You can also visit lavender farms and distilleries both during the growing season and afterwards; more on that appears below.

The main commercial lavender-growing area is the triangle between Sault, Banon and Sederon, and another prominent area spreads out on the other side of Mont Ventoux, north of Nyons. The Tourist Offices in those areas will have info on which distilleries and farms you can visit when...and they’ll give you a “Lavender Route” map.

But a really great way to celebrate lavender at harvest time is at a lavender festival. The one in the village of Valreas has already come and gone but two biggies are coming up, in the villages of Sault and Digne les Bains. The village fathers graciously planned them a week apart, so you can hit both. Here’s all the info.

SAULT LAVENDER FESTIVAL

The 29th annual Fete de la Lavande is August 15, 2014. Most activities happen at the Hippodrome du Defends and there’s shuttle service from the village center. 

The day begins with mass at 9:30 at l'Eglise Notre Dame de la Tour and the festival opens officially at 10 am. Ongoing all day are a book fair, art exhibit and sale, arts-and-crafts crafts show, pony rides, a lavender field in Centre Ville, lavender ice cream and much more.  Here’s the rest of the schedule:

10:30 & 3:00 pm: Folkloric parade and exhibition of agricultural equipment.

11:45: Award ceremony for lavender championships.

12:30: Picnic. Open to the public; more info is here. Tickets are 21 euro per person and you can book ahead(04 90 64 01 21) or, if there’s space, join in the day of. 

2 pm:  Workshops and demos on everything you can do with lavender such as essential oils, bouquets, etc.

3 pm: Presentation of the parade groups.

3:30 pm: Lavender games.

5:00 pm: Sault choir concert.

To see the schedule in a PDF, click here.

For more info : 04 90 64 02 30,  contact@fetedelalavande.fr, fetedelalavande.fr.

For general info about the village: saultenprovence.com.

LAVENDER FAIR IN DIGNE LES BAINS

The 93^rd annual Foire de la Lavande,  runs from August 21 to 25, 2014. There will be 200 exhibitors, food and local products, performances, an art exhibit, demos of the distilling process, a golf tournament, a guided distillery visit, guided lavender walks, evening entertainment and much more.  All events are free and virtually all take place in the village center, on the Place du General de Gaulle.  The hours are 10 am to 8:30 pm daily. Local restaurants will b offering special menus for the duration of the fest. For more info :  04, 92 31 05 20, foire-lavande@wanadoo.fr, foire-lavande.com. 

CAN'T MAKE IT TO THE FESTIVALS?

Sault is considered the epicenter of commercial lavender farming in Provence and their Tourist Office can provide great lavender info. Some farms and distilleries around Sault that welcome the public, depending on the day and the season, are:

*Les Lavandes du Gaec Champelle. A large farm with a pretty little shop ; they’ll happily offer you a tour if you reserve ahead, a couple days in advance if possible. They don’t speak much English but they’ll do their best. They have roughly 80 hectares of lavender/lavandin and cereals (primarily wheat or épautre), which they wholesale throughout the region. The farm as been organic for six-plus years.  You’ll see huge hangers of lavender and old machinery that’s still in use. (Located on the Route du Ventoux outside Sault, 04 90 64 01 50, 06 82 53 95 34, champelle2@wanadoo.fr).

*Les Vallons de Lavandes. A farm and distillery (with pretty chickens!) Here you’ll meet Sylvie Barjot, who runs the show with her mother, father and daughter. The do distillery demos during harvest time, on a set schedule, and guided 20-minute visits are sometimes available by appointment.   Or just drop in, smile nice and maybe someone will show you around. My friend Angela wrote a very nice story about them here. (04 90 64 14 83,  vallon-des-lavandes@wanadoo.fr).

*La Ferme aux Lavandes offers tours of their lavender farm and nursery in summer and also has a "conservatory lavender garden’’ open from mid April to mid October. They have tables and chairs if you want to bring a picnic...and a boutique selling lavender-related products. (On the Route du Mont Ventoux outside Sault,  04 90 64 00 24,  06 82 93 52 09, contact@la-ferme-aux-lavandes.com).

*Distillery Aroma'plantes is a traditional lavender distillery in Sault (Ferme La Parente, Route du Mont Ventoux, Sault, 04 90 64 04 02, info@aromaplantes.com,  distillerie-aromaplantes.com).