Truffles in Paradise: Markets, Fests, Feasts, Hunts & More

It's truffle season in Provence! Our famous fresh black truffles, considered one of the most prized and expensive food products on earth, are at optimal ripeness in January. If you've never been to a truffle market or done a truffle hunt, it's great good fun. But do it soon...the season ends in mid March. Below are some of the best places to experience tuber melanasporum (truffes noirs) in Provence, from marchés aux truffes to truffle festivals to truffle farms to restaurants. You can take check out the Fête de la Truffe in Uzes (Jan 14 to 16) or the one in Aups (Jan 23), join in a festive town-hall luncheon (ten more times this winter), attend a Truffle Mass followed by a truffle meal (next month), get a guided tour of a pros-only truffle market (on Fridays in Carpentras, for one euro!), sign on for Patricia Wells' five-day truffle cooking extravaganza (in 2023) and even adopt a truffle oak (anytime). And of course, taste truffled everything, from liqueur to honey to scrambled eggs to ice cream. Also, some news: a group of truffle producers in Provence have just banded together to combat the sale of fake, foreign, unripe and otherwise sub-par truffles with a “collective brand” called Le Diamant Noir du Vaucluse. Read on! 

The Richerenches Truffle Market, Truffle Mass and Truffled-Omelette Lunch

The famous winter truffle market in the village of Richerenches is now in full swing, every Saturday morning until March 12. 

The intoxicating aroma of fresh truffes hits you before you even see the long row of vans, each with a cluster of buyers huddled behind it...everyone bundled up warmly, patiently waiting their turn. With many thousands of euros worth of product changing hands, there's a hushed sense of serious excitement in the air. Each truffle is meticulously weighed, calculations are made, cash changes hands and sacks are handed over...while gendarmes mill around very visibly, keeping an eye on everything. Most of the sellers here are courtiers en truffes, who buy direct from the trufficulteurs for the purpose of reselling. Sellers without their own vans wander the crowd, their goods tucked carefully out of sight in cloth bundles, plastic bags or market baskets. 

And king of the market, of course, is the prized tuber melanasporum, also known as the French black truffle, truffes noirs, Black Diamonds or Black Gold. 

At Richerenches you can also buy truffle-oak saplings, kitchen gadgets to ease truffle handling and even a truffle hound...I saw one very sweet one in a cage, looking a bit forlorn that he wasn't running around in the sunshine like all the other dogs. Other vendors sell locally grown produce, charcuterie, olives and olive oils, soaps in delicious scents, nougat and other sweets. It's all very colorful, very authentic and very Provencal. 

Statistics are a bit hard to come by but the Richerenches truffle market is said to be the largest in France and probably Europe. It sells both wholesale and retail and many top chefs in the region shop here. I'm told that 50% of the truffle transactions in Southeast France happen here...accounting for 30% of all the truffles that change hands in France. And that the Vaucluse (one of the six departments in the Provence Alpes Cote d'Azur region) produces 70% of all the truffles in France.

All morning long on market day, people pop in and out of the Etablissement Cafe, for warming drinks and truffle talk. The unmistakable aroma of truffle wafts in with them and, by this time, is probably permanently embedded in the walls. By 11:30 the market crowds have dwindled and the Etablissement is packed.

After you've done your marketing, you can move on to a truffled-omelette lunch at the Town Hall/Salle des Fêtes, just a few doors down from the Etablissement Cafe, or at the Salle des Remparts, by the church.  You'll sit with strangers but no doubt become fast friends, thanks to the Kir that kicks off the meal and the serve-yourself bottles of Côtes du Rhône on every table. The 25€ price includes a salad, a creamy omelette with shaved truffles, bread, dessert, coffee, wine, a souvenir glass...and lots of juicy local gossip. These lunches fill up quickly so call the Richerenches Tourist Office to reserve: +33 (0)4 90 28 05 34. You can reserve by phone for up to six people; more than six requires a 50% deposit. See details and dates here.  

There's also an outdoor summer version of the truffled-omelette lunch; it happens a couple times a week and alternates between the villages of Richerenches and Grignan. Summer 2022 dates are still TBA. 

The Richerenches truffle market takes place on Avenue de la Rabasse (Rabasse is Provencal for truffle) and on Cours du Mistral.  It runs every Saturday morning, mid November to mid March, from 9 am to 1 pm. Anyone can buy truffles on the Avenue de la Rabasse; the Cours du Mistral is for professionals only.

Richerenches even has a Truffle Mass in the Saint Denis Church on the third Sunday of January (Jan 16, 2022). It’s dedicated to St. Antoine...the patron saint of truffle growers...and followed by an apero, open to all. Crowds have been known to get so big that a giant TV screen is set up outside in the courtyard of the Knights Templars Commandery so everyone can join in. As of now, it's expected to go ahead next month. There's a small museum devoted to truffles and wine in the Commandery as well. Info on the Truffle Mass and meal that follows (€65 pp, by reservation) is here. 

For more info, lunch reservations and other events, contact the Richerenches Tourist Office at  +33 (0)4 90 28 05 34 or via their website in English here. 

The Carpentras Truffle Market

Richerenches is the biggest but not the only regular truffle market in Provence. There are also two in Carpentras on Friday, which is the village’s regular market day as well.

The first happens on Friday mornings, from mid November to mid March, at the Hotel-Dieu. The start whistle blows at 9 am and it’s all usually over within an hour or so. This market is private and for professionals only...but the Carpentras Tourist Office  offers a guided tour of this market to the public for €1 (yes, one euro!) per person. Tours are in French only and can be booked online or in person at the Tourist Office.

The second truffle market is for everyone else. It too happens on Friday morning, from 8:30 to 12:30, in front of the Tourist Office on Place du 25 Aout 1944.

The professional market started November 19; the public market on December 3. Both will likely run until early March, depending on the harvest. 

Periodically throughout the season, the Tourist Office offers a truffled-omelette and wine tasting in their office, for €10 per person, featuring different chefs and wine domaines. There are none in January but check back in February; dates will appear on the website. To reach the Carpentras Tourist Office: +33 (0)4 90 63 00 78 or click here.  

Three Places for Truffle Hunts in Provence

*Year after year, truffle hunting at Les Pastras is one of the most-popular activities in the Luberon, according to Trip Advisor and other sites. With English-speaking guide Johann and three adorable dogs named Mirabelle, Caramel and Éclair, you’ll head into the Provençal countryside sniffing out winter or summer truffles. Learn how truffle trees are cultivated, the signals nature sends to indicate your trees might have truffles below and the extreme lengths to which people will go to steal the precious tubers or sabotage other hunters. Plus, tips on how to clean and prepare fresh truffles, what dishes taste best with them and how to tell a real tuber melanosporum from, say, a Chinese fake. Then kick back with Champagne and fresh truffle hors d'oeuvres...and truffle ice cream with truffle honey...and a tasting of Les Pastras’ homemade products including truffled salt and olive oil. You can also purchase truffles here at less-than-market prices. Winter hunts (roughly Nov. 15 to March 15) are weekdays at 10 am or 2:30 pm. Summer hunts (roughly May 1 to Sept. 30) are weekdays at 10 am or 6 pm. Expend to spend about 3 hours. For all the info, click here.

*Based in Gordes, Robert Florent dug up his first truffle at age five, while hunting with his grandfather. Today he organizes winter and summer truffle hunts with his dog Perle, followed by wine and a tasting of truffled toasts. You can buy his truffles and other truffle products and, if you book ahead, possibly stay on for a meal. A truffle hunt with tasting costs 200€ total (for 1-3 people) or €250 (4-20 people); more than 20 people add €10 pp.  Robert speaks some English but works mostly in French; a translator is available for €50 extra but must be booked in advance.  The summer or winter experience lasts 3 to 3.5 hours but can be shortened to 2.5 if needed. For info or to book: +33 (0)4 90 72 11 60, +33 (0)6 80 55 30 47, florent.gael@gmail.com.

*On a sunny December day two years ago, with snow-capped Mont Ventoux in the distance, my friends and I enjoyed a super-successful truffle hunt and a wonderful meal with truffles in every course (including cheese and dessert) at La Truffe du Ventoux, run by the Jaumard family. Details about everything they offer--truffle hunts, meals, truffles and truffle products, B&B, etc.--are on their site. 

Three Upcoming Truffle Festivals

The elegant, historic village of Uzes will hold its annual Fête de la Truffe January 14 to 16, 2022. This year you’ll find a winegrower's evening, a truffle market, workshops, special truffle meals and more. General info about the truffle season in Uzes is here and the the program for the January truffle festival is here. For whatever else you might need, call or email the lovely folks at the Uzes Tourist Office: +33 (0)4 66 22 68 88, info@uzes-pontdugard.com

Every Thursday morning from late November to mid March, the village of Aups, in the Var, hosts a truffle market on the Place Frédéric Mistral from roughly 9:30 am to noon. On the 4th Sunday in January (Sunday January 23, 2022) there's the Fete de la Truffe with truffles and other local products for sale, a truffle dog competition and truffle menus in village restaurants (definitely book in advance). I'm still trying to confirm if the Truffle Festival in Aups will happen this year or not but in the meantime, for info, click here and here. And  when you're in Aups, check out the Maison de la Truffe where you'll find truffle info, activities, a museum and a shop. The helpful folks at Visit Var can help with all the info you need about the region.

For now, the Nimes Truffle Fair is scheduled for February 4 to 6, 2022, Covid permitting. It’s organized by the Ville de Nimes and hasn’t been posted online yet so check in with the Nimes Tourist Office closer to the date.

Truffle Meals in Restaurants

At this time of year, you’ll find truffles on restaurant menus all over the region. Here are four suggestions to get you started.

* At Restaurant Bruno in Lorgues (in the Var), you'll encounter a serious, decadent use of truffles in just about every dish including the famous truffled scrambled eggs known as brouillade. They currently offer multi-course truffle menus  at €83, €125, €175 & €195. Or, pick and choose your dishes à la carte and pay accordingly. This year Bruno was one of just two Provence restaurants to receive Michelin's new "Green Star" designation for sustainability. 

*At La Beaugraviere in Mondragon, on the N7 north of Orange, you can indulge in one truffle dish or an entire truffle tasting menu...and an award-winning wine list packed with Rhône vintages. This year, truffle menus are €69 or €150...and other menus, without truffles, are also offered.  

*In Carpentras, Chez Serge has been known for truffles for years. They used to do a fantastic truffle pizza but no longer...dommage! Now you’ll find à la carte truffle dishes and an €89 three-course truffle menu.  

*In Nîmes, the intimate restaurant Gamel will feature special truffle menus to coincide with the Uzes Truffle Fair (January 14-16) and the one in Nimes (February 4-6). Chef Cristian Moisa is self-taught, rising up through the culinary ranks from local brasseries to Michelin-starred eateries such as Lisita in Nîmes and Bibendum in London, while his partner Morgane, a pâtissier, runs the front-of-house. For more info, contact the restaurant in the new year. +33 (0)4 66 36 25 80. 

A Truffle Cooking Workshop 

Every winter at their cooking school in Vaison-la-Romaine, Patricia and Walter Wells offer a Black Truffle Cooking Extravaganza. It's five days of classes, meals and outings devoted almost entirely to fresh black truffles. Menus focus on complementary wines, particularly the prized whites of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. All instruction is in English, with recipes geared to home cooks. The workshop has been Covid-postponed until 2023 but all the info is here. In the meantime, pick up a copy of Patricia's 2011 book, Simply Truffles, on Amazon here. 

Two Bits of Truffle News...

The Maison de La Truffe et Du Vin, which for years has occupied a beautifully restored 17^th-century maison particulier at the top of  the village of Menerbes—selling a fantastic selection of local wines as well as a wide range of truffle products--is closed until further notice. They may reopen...or not. But you can still buy their products (including their Truffle Aperitif, which a Menerbes-based friend says she loves to give as a novelty gift) on their website.

To promote and protect the integrity of their products, five truffle growers in the Vaucluse have banded together to launch a “collective brand” called Le Diamant Noir du Vaucluse. Rigorous specs guarantee the truffle’s origin, pesticide-free production and freshness: they must be sold within seven days of harvesting. According to association president Nicolas Monnier, an organic producer in Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, the goal is to combat the poor quality of truffles sometimes sold in local markets, some of which come from Spain or are unripe. “We want to take back control as producers...in order to guarantee that the truffles are ripe and black,” he says.  “Gray or white truffles aren’t ripe and don’t have the same aroma. We practice reasoned farming, without the use of pesticides. We also want to guarantee...that our truffles are fresh and out of the ground for less than 7 days. A consumer buying a Diamant Noir du Vaucluse truffle is guaranteed a fresh truffle. The black truffe of the Vaucluse might be the most expensive, but it’s worth it!” 

For More Info

There's a calendar of truffle markets in the Gard and elsewhere in Occitanie here.

And finally,  you'll find lots of great info on truffle markets, visits, hunts and more on the Vaucluse Tourism here. 

Photos: (1) Pasta with fresh black truffles at Patricia Wells' cooking school in Vaison. Her next five-day Black Truffle Cooking Extravaganza will be offered in 2023. Photo by Jeff Kauck. (2) Happy Shopper: I met the smiley Pierre Sauvayre last time I visited the Richerenches Truffle Market. (3) Delicious truffled omelettes are served up on most Saturday mornings in Richerenches during truffle season. Check the schedule and reserve ahead. (4) One section of the Richerenches market is devoted to wholesale only and many of the region's top chefs buy here. (5) The stall selling charcuterie does a booming business on Saturday. (6) A typical seller's rig at Richerenches. (7) Truffle vendor Thierry Vidal in the retail section of the Richerenches market.  (8) Rabasse is Provencal for truffle. (9) The markets also sell tools for handling truffles. (10) The Etablissement: preferred hang out for buyers and sellers in Richerenches.  (11) Here comes the truffle truck! (11) A sign on the Mairie boasts Richerenches' status as one of the 100 Remarkable Sites of Good Taste, a designation honoring local foods and producers. (12) The Truffle Mass in Richerenches will be January 16. (13) At the Truffle Market in Carpentras. Photo via Avignon-et-Provence.com. (14, 15) Les Pastras in the Southern Luberon is known for truffle hunts and truffle products, olive picking parties, grape stomps and more. After your truffle tour, tuck into truffle ice cream with truffle honey--and lots of other delicious things. (16, 17) Two winters ago, some friends and I did a truffle day at La Truffe du Ventoux in Monteux. With snow-capped Mont Ventoux in the distance, our day included a truffle talk in the Jaumard family's workshop, a successful hunt with this adorable Border Collie and a wonderful meal with truffles in every course including this pumpkin soup with truffle cream. (18) Poster for the Uzes Truffle Festival next month. The Nimes Truffle Fair is tentatively scheduled for mid February.

Join Us! Photographing the White Horses of the Camargue

One of the most-special experiences I've booked for my clients is a day devoted to photographing the famous white horses of the Camargue...and the cowboys (gardians) who look after them. To do this, I've teamed up with a terrific photographer who knows the best ranches, best places to shoot and best time of day for the most-magical images. She took all the photos above.

Not only will you improve your skills considerably but you'll get an exciting glimpse of a cherished Provençale tradition that many travelers miss. 

Shooting lasts roughly 90 minutes but there’s a 45-minute tutorial beforehand, plus travel time to the shooting site, so plan to spend about three hours. Workshops are suited to all levels, from beginner to professional, using smart phones to DSLRs. The best time to shoot is around sunrise and sunset so the timing changes with the seasons. Workshops are either public (where you can book as a solo and be paired with other people) or private (for you and your peeps only). Public workshops are on set dates; private ones can happen anytime.

Please note that the photographer is observing all COVID safety protocols. Masks are mandatory and group sizes have been reduced for social distancing. 

By the way, people often refer to these horses as "wild" but that's not the case...there are no white horses just lurking around the Camargue! They're all owned by someone and most live on ranches (manades), behind fences or sometimes gates. Many ranches are indeed open to the public at certain times...but that's another story for another day. In general, you don't just roll up to a ranch and start shooting the horses...and you almost certainly wouldn't get great shots. So that's why these workshops are ideal.

Two types of private workshops are available on your choice of dates.  A group of 7 to 10 horses running in the watery marshes is 825€ (for up to 8 people). A group of 5 to 7 horses on the beach (and running in the sea) is 1650€ (for up to 10 people). The price is a flat fee for your group; each workshop includes gardians in traditional gardian garb! Private workshops are available year round.

Public workshops are available on set dates, starting three hours before sunset. June is sold out but the dates for the rest of the year as as follows:  July 1, July 8, July 15, July 22, July 29, Aug 5, Aug 12, Aug 19, Sept 5, Oct 3, Oct 10 and Nov 7. These alternate between the marsh (180€ pp) and the beach (235€ pp). 

Whether you sign up for a public or private shoot, you’ll meet the photographer in or near Aigues-Mortes, about 45 minutes from Arles. For the marsh shoots, be sure to wear water-proof boots to the knee. For beach shoots between May and October, bare feet or walking sandals and shorts are fine. Masks won't be provided...you need to bring your own.

This same photographer also offers three-day workshops, shorter sessions focused on the birds of the Camargue (flamingos and others) and workshops on demand for groups of all types. Let me know what interests you and I'll reach out! 

In May 2021, there will be special workshops with mares and their new foals...probably five of each. These public shoots will be held on a private ranch, in a typically marshy and lovely Camargue landscape with birds, reeds, etc. 

For more info or to book: whattodoinprovence@gmail.com. 

*Note from Julie: If you're heading for the South of France, please check my websites ProvencePostTravel.com and WhatToDoinProvence.com. There you'll see all the ways in which I can help, whether you need a completely custom itinerary or just a couple fab tours or activities. We do lots of hotel and villa booking too, all over Provence and the Cote d'Azur, and would love to help you find the perfect place!

A New Foodie Haven in St. Remy

After years of leading gourmet market tours and cooking classes in other people’s kitchens in Provence, my friend Jane Satow has just put the finishing touches on a project she’s been dreaming of for years: a warm and welcoming “Provençal kitchen” where guests can gather to cook, dine and experience the Provençal lifestyle. It’s called La CuisineProvençale and it opens officially in mid June.

But Jane’s new venture is more than just a cooking school; she’ll offer a wide range of activities using this quaint maison du village as a base. While her signature offering will indeed be cooking classes (with the possibility of market shopping beforehand), she’s also planning private dining, table d’hôte meals, wine and cheese tastings, baking and pastry classes, guest chef meals, culinary demos and more.

“Welcoming people into my home gives me such pleasure,” she says. “And I can see it being used in so many ways. I want it filled with life, laughter, creativity and community.”

La Cuisine Provençale sits in one of the oldest quarters of the historic village of St. Remy, founded more than 2000 years ago on the vestiges of previous settlements. Famous residents have included Nostradamus (who was born here), Vincent Van Gogh (who spent a year in the clinic here and painted 150 canvasses) and Princess Caroline of Monaco, who spent several years here after the death of her second husband, and saw her daughter Charlotte married in church here last year.

Jane’s three-story house is 18th century, with a small terrace on one side and a quiet courtyard on the other. The 325-square-foot ground-floor kitchen allows up to ten students to work comfortably. Upstairs, there are two guestrooms and Jane loves the idea of couples or friends renting the whole house, to stay and cook together for a long weekend, a week or more. For those who don’t stay over, there are scores of hotels and B&Bs in walking distance.

La Cuisine Provençale is just steps from St. Remy’s weekly outdoor market, one of the largest and most-popular in the region. If you sign on for a market tour and cooking class, Jane will welcome you around 9 am for coffee and croissants, then guide you through the market to pick up ingredients for your meal, meet purveyors and taste iconic Provençal foods. Then you’ll leave the busy market behind, via a quiet street, and head back to La Cuisine Provençale for your cooking class and lunch...or enjoy a historic stroll later in the day, followed by an evening class and dinner.

In a village heavily focused on tourism and food (St. Remy had 90 cafes and restaurants at last count and is surrounded by vineyards and farms), there have been few opportunities here for cooking classes in English, particularly so close to the market. But it’s not like Jane just saw a niche and quickly jumped in to fill it; in many ways she’s been working towards this her entire life.

Raised on a farm in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, she earned degrees in English lit and history at the University of Boulder. Despite an “official” career in marketing, she found she was far more interested in food and wine. She worked in a French bistro and a cheese shop, taught herself to cook and began studying the history of global cuisines and cultures, topics which fascinate her to this day.

Her love affair with Provence began in 2003, when she and her former husband--after lots of travel and living on a farm in Chile for five years--decided to move to France. They settled in the tiny village of Eygalieres (20 minutes from St. Remy), to raise their children Julien, Charlie and Sophia, now 14, 19 and 21.

Soon after, Jane founded Provence Cultural Tours, helping travelers discover the region’s exceptional historic sites, scenic routes, colorful markets, fine wines and authentic restaurants. Her tours draw heavily, of course, on her love of history and French culture. She managed the renovation of a house for her family, then began managing other homes and estates for their owners, overseeing maintenance, renovation and more.

The opportunity to visit and work in some of the finest properties in Provence greatly expanded her expertise in--and appreciation for--historic architecture and traditional building techniques, along with French and Provençal decor, design, art and antiques. “Being exposed to these amazing homes and gardens has been a joy and a privilege,” she says.

Finally Jane reached a point in her career where she felt confident enough to realize her dream and the time was right to weave all the threads together. She found and bought the St. Remy house last year and jumped in to the restoration, corralling a group of talented local artisans, sourcing traditional materials and carefully choosing her top-of-the-line French equipment, cookware and knives...with input from her chef friends. “I’ve called them all!” she says with a laugh.

The goal was to recreate, on a small scale, the gracious ambiance of gorgeous Provençal kitchens such as the 17th-century teaching kitchen at the Hotel La Mirande in Avignon and the 18th-century one at Le Mas des Poiriers, the beautiful estate where the Obamas vacationed last year.

Cabinet fronts were crafted from old doors, re-built and refinished. The beautiful terra-cotta floor tiles were recovered from a farmhouse in Burgundy. The countertops are white Mediterranean stone, the decorative tiles hand-made and hand-painted with a classic French motif. Walls were treated with the traditional lime-wash called chaux.

The range is a five-burner Lacanche, with an iron center plate for simmering, and both gas and electric ovens. “The day the stove arrived,” Jane remembers, “was the day I felt ‘this is really happening!’”

While most of Jane’s linens are heirlooms from her grandmother, she’s been scouring brocantes for antiques, pottery and china, such as rustic Provençal confit pots and beautiful antique tableware to furnish the space.

“All over France there are signature patterns and styles specific to certain regions,” she says. “Limoges, Moustiers and Vallauris are well known for what they produce...but others not as much.” For example? Jane’s currently collecting porcelain from Sarreguemines in Northeastern France, where an earthenware works was first established in 1784. “I’m having so much fun learning about these beautiful pieces,” she says, “and of course trying to find them at great prices.”

She’s also been adding to her collection of copper pots and pans, which look perfect in the space and conduct heat so well for sauces, roasts and more.

Jane thinks her most popular offering will be the Wednesday and Friday cooking classes, led by top local teaching chefs or talented Provençal cooks, for a minimum of two people at a time. They’ll start with market shopping (in St. Remy or nearby Eygalieres) then move on to the cooking class followed by a four-course meal with cheese, wine, and coffee for €155 per person. On other days, the class and meal (without market shopping) is offered at €135.

Depending on the season and availability, groups can be private (for just you and your companions) or mixed (in which case you’ll be paired with other students). Clients can request specific dishes and themes...or work with Jane to craft the perfect menu. Classes can be taught in French, English or both. For the moment, all cooking classes are on demand but a schedule will be coming soon; be sure to get on Jane’s mailing list here.

Also in the works are demos by Michelin-starred chefs, who work in or regularly visit the region...and lunches or dinner (without classes) designed for locals and travellers to share a beautiful meal, be it rustic or gastronomic.

“This is a revered ritual in France,” Jane says. “Recipes handed down through generations are an important part of the culture, where there’s an enormous sense of pride associated with being a good cook. Appreciating good food and wine around the table, enjoying conversation and each other's company, is often how we spend our Sunday afternoons, finishing with a lovely sieste under the shade of a plane tree in the garden. I’m always thrilled and honored to be a guest at the table of French friend's homes, many of whom are fabulous cooks, feeling spoiled by amazing meals...lasting for hours...with wines to match.”

Come for a class or a meal and you're likely to meet Jane's charming French companion Christophe Daumas, who did much of the renovation work himself and is as passionate about Provençal cooking as she is. They make a great team.

“I’ve lived on farms my entire life, which has given me a huge appreciation for rural life and how food is so lovingly produced in France,” she says. “Here in the Centre Ville of St. Remy, my neighbors are artists, artisans, food makers, bakers, restaurateurs...and people dedicated to preserving historic village buildings. I’m very drawn to that and thrilled to be a part of it. This feels like the perfect fit at the perfect time.”

La Cuisine Provençale

1 rue la Lavoisier

13210 St Remy de Provence

j.satow1@gmail.com

+33 (0)6 14 48 41 89
Follow La Cuisine Provencale on Instagram and join the mailing list here.

Photos: (1-5) Jane begins welcoming guests at La Cuisine Provençale in mid June. Classes and menus will blend Provencal, French and Mediterranean cuisines, with the focus on fresh, local, natural, seasonal ingredients. "My food is the opposite of complicated or pretentious,” she says. She'll lead some classes herself, call on talented Provençal home cooks to join in and welcome top local chefs to host workshops, demos and chefs' table meals. "The idea is to get locals and travelers together to share their stories, learn from each other and enjoy a beautiful French meal,” Jane says. “But always with the emphasis on local foods and traditions. I love all the rituals and traditions here, culinary and otherwise." The house is also available to rent, on a daily or multi-day basis, to chefs, caterers, party planners and photographers...or anyone else who needs a Provençal-style kitchen for work or for fun. There are two guestrooms upstairs. Top five photos by Bruno Suet. (6, 7) Jane scours brocantes and antique markets for rustic Provençal pottery. She's also crazy about porcelain from Serreguimines in Northeastern France, which you see on the table here set for two. (8) Making aïoli. (9, 10) A couple passing by stopped to chat and then grabbed these cute shots of Jane with a tarte au citron. (11, 12) The outdoor markets in St. Remy (Wednesday) and Eygalieres (Friday) are two of the prettiest, most-popular in the region. (13) Yep, Jane's daily commute from Eygalieres to St. Remy looks like this. 

Big Châteauneuf Wine Fest April 3 to 5

The weekend wine festival called Printemps de Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now in its 11th year, is a festive rite of spring here in the South of France; everyone just calls it Printemps. This year it's Friday to Sunday, April 3 to 5. More than 100 domaines and châteaux will be pouring...a great opportunity to meet local producers while tasting their latest releases and a few smashing older vintages. It’s also an easy way to buy the wines you love, some of them normally quite difficult to get. I'm told roughly 300 wines will be featured. Entry to the main tasting salon is normally 10€ per person but if you book online (with the code below) you'll pay just 2€. You're welcome!

Each year the Printemps festival invites special guests from other regions and this time it's a group of Italian winemakers known as the Barolo Boys.

This year, the festival is launching a new eco initiative.  For example: no more plastic water bottles; instead, you’ll fill empty wine bottles with filtered water from a fountain.  Plus, no more paper tickets: it’s online ticketing only (or pay at the door). All wine corks and caps will be recycled and there will be a Facebook group for carpooling (great idea).

As in years past, there will be special tasting workshops (called Master Classes or Les Ateliers Dégustation). These require an additional fee and must be booked in advance. You can see this year's offerings here but sign up early as they always sell out.  As of this writing, two were sold out but five were still available. Note some workshops may be in different locations than the festival itself. 

Eighty-two years ago, Châteauneuf was designated as one of the very first AOCs (Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée) in France.  The AOC decree was first created by Pierre Le Roy de Boiseaumarié (aka baron Le Roy), a winemaker at Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Château Fortia). The first year, there were five villages named: Châteauneuf, Monbazillac, Arbois, Cassis and Tavel. And as the European designation AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) is slowly replacing the French AOC for agricultural products, you can expect to see more AOP on wine labels in the months to come.

Les Printemps is organized by by The Young Winemakers Association of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and takes place at the Salle Dufays on the Place de la Renaissance. Hours are 4 pm to 8 pm (Friday), 10 am to 7 pm (Saturday) and 10 am to 6 pm (Sunday). 

Entry to the salon is 10€ per person per day; you can pay at the door.  Or better yet, you can book online using a special code the festival gave me. With this code your entry to the salon is free and you pay just 2€ for your glass. Go to the ticketing page here and plug in the code PROVENCEPOST when asked.

As in years past, there will be free parking and food available on site. Please note there’s no play area for kids this year.

A list of all participating domaines is here. And of course you can follow the festival on Facebook  and Instagram. Hope to see you at Les Printemps!

Winter Writing Retreat in Provence

Two women I adore and admire have teamed up to host a late-winter writing retreat in the South of France. Whether you’re already published, still aspiring or just curious, this five-night getaway in the beautiful Provencal countryside will be a journey of self-discovery and give you tools to help your writing spring to life, whether you’re interested in food writing, personal narrative, fiction or just about anything else. All levels are welcome!

The March 2 to 7 workshop will be led by Elizabeth Bard, the American author of the bestselling memoir and cookbook Lunch in Paris (Little Brown, 2010), along with two other books: Picnic in Provence (Little Brown, 2015) and her latest, Dinner Chez Moi: 50 French Secrets for Joyful Eating and Entertaining (Little Brown, 2017). Her articles on food, art, travel and digital culture have appeared in The New York Times, The London Times, Wired, Harper's Bazaar and The Huffington Post, among others. Elizabeth lives in Arles with her French husband Gwendal and their adorable 10-year-old son. 

“For me, writing is both a passion and a craft,” Elizabeth says. “Since I published my first book in 2010, I’m amazed at the number of readers who write to me saying they have their own stories to share. This week is about confronting the blank page – in writing and in life!” 

Your host for the week will be Kelly Goehler, an American (originally from Nashville) who landed in Provence after years spent working in the marketing world, in New York and Asia. Kelly owns and runs La Belugue Wellness and Wandering Retreats and La Belugue Cooking School, from her gorgeous, art-filled 18th-century farmhouse in the Southern Luberon. Her warm style of southern hospitality and her French culinary training make La Belugue the perfect, Provencal escape in any season. Kelly and her husband Philippe have made their home in the tiny village of  Beaumont-de-Pertuis since 2017. You can read what I wrote about La Belugue here. 

“I feel so lucky to be living this life and it makes me so happy to share it with others,” Kelly says. "This is a chance to learn about this wild, unspoiled part of the country...its culture, traditions, food, wine and more. And at the same time, to write your heart out guided by an accomplished author who knows the region intimately.”

The five-night retreat includes accommodation at La Belugue or a similar B&B in the same village, all meals (except two lunches and one dinner), daily writing workshops and one private coaching session with Elizabeth. Plus, plans include wine tasting, truffle hunting, a cooking class, a visit to Cezanne’s studio in Aix, a boat ride and bouillabaisse meal in Cassis and a hilltop picnic at a 12th-century chapel. You’ll enjoy aperitifs by the fireplace, sunsets over the vineyards, superb home-cooked meals with local wines and much more. 

Airfare and transfers from the train station or airport are not included. Pricing is 3000€ per person for a private room, 5400€ for a double room or 2700€ per person for a shared room. 

Day trippers (those living or staying in the area) are welcome for 1500€ per person; details of what’s included in that package appear here. 

I know from personal experience that creative getaways of this type can be completely life changing. In 1997, I signed up for a two-week photography workshop in Provence...my first visit to the region. I think it was on Day #3, after the jet lag had started to ease, that I realized two weeks wasn't going to be anywhere near enough. I returned about a year later, and that's when reality hit: my marriage to New York was pretty much over and my love affair with Provence was in full bloom. I went back to New York, quit my job, sublet my apartment, found a cute little stone house in St. Remy and have been blissfully happy here since. Who knows what may happen if you grab this chance to experience the magic of Provence while pursuing your passion for writing with a small group like-minded people? 

“Provence is such an inspiring place to write,” Elizabeth says. “The cuisine, the history, the landscape – there’s so much to get the creative spirit moving. I'm so excited to share that with you." 

All the retreat details are on the La Belugue website here. 

If you have specific questions for Kelly or Elizabeth, feel free to reach out:  kelly@la-belugue.com or elizabethbard@hotmail.com.

Photos: (1). You've arrived! La Belugue is surrounded by vineyards and yes, you'll drink the wines! (2) Elizabeth Bard. (3) Kelly Goehler. (4) Elizabeth's first book was the best-selling memoir and cookbook "Lunch in Paris." Two books have followed. (5) Once part of the village’s original farm, the 18th-century house that's now La Belugue was used as a shelter for sheep and for hay storage. While the exterior is simple and rustic, the interior is vibrant and colorful, with high ceilings, lots of light, art, sculpture and original architectural elements. Here Kelly has combined her passions for hospitality, local food, wine, fitness, nature, horses and more. (6) The tile was made by a local artist. (7) The area surrounding Beaumont-de-Pertuis is heavily agricultural, with beautiful farms and orchards producing high-quality fruit, veg, wheat, meat, cheese, flowers, olive oil and wine grapes...much of it organic. (8) In the 14th century, Beaumont-de-Pertuis was a prosperous market town with roughly 1,000 residents; it has not many more today. It's just 30 minutes from Aix, an hour from the Gorges du Verdon. (9) Cooking class at La Belugue. (10) Rolling hills and lush green valleys are dotted with historic villages and sites. The snow-topped peaks of the Alps are very often visible in the distance. (11) A goatherd and her flock pass by. (12) Guests love to gather at the fireplace for the apero before dinner. (13) Cheese, Bread, Wine: Kelly loves to support and promote local organic producers. "Everything in this picture was made within 20 miles of us," she says. (14) A guestroom at La Belugue. (15-17) Day trips and activities during the retreat will include a truffle hunt, a boat ride to see the gorgeous cliffs and coves of the Calanques and a bouillabaisse in Cassis (last photo courtesy of TootaCassis.fr).