My Big Expat Gardening Gaffe

The following story might seem familiar to some of you but I hope to many of you it won't! I originally published it on October 31, 2011 about something that had happened nine years earlier. Normally, I don't republish old content. But tomorrow is Toussaint (when the French visit the graves of their loved ones) and the stores and garden centers are once again filled with gorgeous chrysanthemums (meant to be placed on graves) and even though I still get teased about this little incident all these years later, why not? Today is a strange day all around. It's Day #2 of our second lockdown in France and there's a full moon tonight for Halloween (which won't happen again until 2039) and our normally buzzing little village is completely, eerily silent.  Earlier this evening I bought myself a large, beautiful chrysanthemum to celebrate the weirdness and also to honor those who've died and tomorrow I'll plant it in my garden. Meanwhile I hope you enjoy this little tale, whether it's your first or second time around!

All of a sudden, the stores were filled with mums. Every market, every roadside stand, every InterMarché parking lot--overflowing with mums. Fat, healthy, brilliant mums, just 35 francs per pot. It was late October, 1999, and my little garden was calling out for color.

Having left Manhattan (and my one-bedroom apartment on the Upper West Side) for Provence just four months before, I was ecstatic about having a house. A real house! With thick stone walls, heavy shutters, a traditional tile roof and wooden beams. I had colorful neighbors who left homegrown grapes on my table and tomatoes dangling from my front door, just like in the movies. I had an olive tree! 

And for the first time in my life, I had a garden. But it was definitely looking drab.

So I called the family's guru of greenery, my dad in Wisconsin, to talk about mums. Though not a mum fan himself, Dad got behind my plan in a big way. "If that's what the stores are selling," he said, "then it's a good plant for the season. They're cheap. Put a bunch in and see how they do."

Just to be sure, I called my friend Carol, another American here in St. Remy. Was this the right time to plant mums? Would they make it through the winter? How deep should I plant them, how long would they bloom, how much water did they need?

Off we went to the garden center, and after much deliberation--such beautiful colors, such variety!--Carol and I settled on three rosy pinks and three brilliant whites.

And into the ground they went. My neighbors smiled as they strolled past and I basked in their approval, pawing around in the dirt, lovingly planting my mums. Some people paused to chat but moved on quickly when they realized I spoke no French. Didn't matter: I was happy. I had a house--and a garden--in Provence!

The next day, my friend Philippe stood in my yard and stared, grinning. I'd grown accustomed to his teasing about my American-in-France faux pas, but for the life of me, I couldn't figure out what was so frigging funny about mums.

"Did you notice that the stores had mums for just three days?" he asked, "and that they disappeared as quickly as they'd arrived?" I confirmed that I had found that odd, and that I was thrilled to have slithered through that narrow window of horticultural opportunity just in the nick of time.

"Yesterday was Toussaint," he explained. "It's like your Memorial Day."

Mums, it seems, are the traditional flower for graves. The reason they'd all disappeared overnight from the stores was that they were now in cemeteries all over Provence. Save for the six in my yard, of course. 

"You've made a nice little graveyard in your garden!" Philippe giggled.

So I decided that my mums would be a memorial to the people I'd loved and lost, including three grandparents and a brother. All of them are buried at home in Milwaukee, 5,000 miles away. And my mums thrived. Then the famous mistral blew down from the mountains and caught St. Remy in its grip. My mums were buried under a mountain of branches and crunchy, golden leaves. Then it snowed, and I left the country for a time, and that was pretty much the end of the mums.

When I returned in spring, I planted lavender, rosemary and other things more conducive to the climate and culture. And now my garden looks pretty much like everyone else's: lush vines, hardy perennials and hardly any color left as we head into November.  But tomorrow is Toussaint and the sun is shining and the shops are full of mums. They're cheerful and so fresh looking and just 7€ or 9€ per pot...

Heritage Days are Sept 21 & 22

It's that time again: The 36th annual Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) takes place Saturday and Sunday, September 21 and 22, in cities and villages all over France. The program was launched by the French Ministry of Culture in 1984 and has since spread all over Europe (officially it's now called European Heritage Days). This year the theme is "Arts & Entertainment" and 17,000 sites in France are participating, with 26,000 events. It's one the biggest events in France and one of my favorite weekends of the year.

The idea is that a wide range of historic monuments, religious sites, estates, gardens,  domaines, workshops, galleries, ateliers, factories and more are open for special visits, including many that are normally closed to the public. Most sites are offering free entry and will have a guide on hand; some are hosting special tours and events (mostly in French). Some may require you to sign up in advance...but for the most part, you just show up. 

The main website is here (or in English here) but you'll fare much better with the department-by-department listings here. Or, check in with the Tourist Office or the tourism website of the village, city or region you want to visit. For example, as of today the department-listings page mentions just six participating sites in my village of St. Remy (in Department #13, the Bouches-du-Rhone) but every year the village publishes its own terrific guide and this year it lists 22 participating sites. You can see them all, with the map, here. If you prefer a printed copy,  you can pick one up at the St. Remy Tourist Office or at most of the participating sites.

Here are programs for Avignon, Aix, Arles, Marseille and Nice. But don't forget about tiny villages, many of which offer fantastic tours, visits and programs as well.  

The best idea is to choose the village you wish to explore, pick up or download their schedule as early as possible and map your route, because some events happen only at certain times. Some villages have events on Friday Sept 20 as well.

To get you started, here are the listings for the six departments of PACA (Provence Alpes Cote d'Azur): Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, Alpes-Maritimes, Bouches du Rhone, the Hautes-Alpes, the Var and the Vaucluse. And here's the Gard (which is not technically in Provence but never mind). For an amazing list of what you can see and do in Paris, click here.

And here's a list of local and regional Tourist Offices in Provence and on the Cote d'Azur, all of whom should have info on their own sites and events.

Vive le Patrimoine de France!

Photos: Get out there and explore! A few of the thousands of sites offering Patrimoine events include The Unterlinden Museum in Colmar (Alsace), The Confectionery Factory Roy René and Museum of Calisson outside Aix, the fantastical houses of Jacques-Emile Lecaron in Clamart, the Théâtre Antique d'Orange, La Cite Radieuse by Le Corbusier in Marseille, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the Cap Ferrat, the Roman Amphitheatre in Arles, the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, the Jewish Cemetery in St. Remy, the Maison du Riz in the Camargue, the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh in Arles, the Heliport of Paris, The Château Raspail in Gigondas and the Palace of Versailles.  At the bottom, this year's poster.

Party Like a Shepherd on Monday June 10

Will ewe be there? Monday June 10 is the 36th annual Fête de la Transhumance in St. Remy, when local shepherds herd their flocks (roughly 3500 sheep and goats) three times around the village's circular "main drag" before taking them up to graze the green pastures of the Alpilles Mountains for the summer. It's always the Monday of Pentecost and if you haven't seen it, it's great good fun. An all-day flea market, poster sale and goat-cheese fair starts at 9 am on the Place Republique; the Transhumance is set to start around 10:30 am but it's usually 11 am before the sheep get to town. To find parking, it's best to arrive by 9:30 am. Other villages in Provence have Transhumance festivals but St. Remy's is one of the biggest and most popular.

Afterwards, everyone flocks to the Plateau de la Crau for sheep-herding demos (starting at noon-ish) and the Repas des Bergers (Shepherds' Lunch). The event has become super popular and always sells out. I just called the Tourist Office and heard that a few last tickets will be sold this evening, from 6:30 to 8 pm in the parking lot of the swimming pool in St. Remy. After that, you might try to call this number (+33 6 84 21 34 20) and see if there's any space left but it's unlikely. Sometimes people let me know that they have extra tickets and if that happens, I'll stick the info in here. The feast is 30€ for adults and includes grilled lamb chops and gigot, stewed beans, green salad, cheese, dessert and all the wine you care to drink...but don't forget: good shepherds don't let other shepherds drive drunk!

The Transhumance and the flea market happen in the heart of the village. The sheep-herding demo and the shepherds' lunch happen up on the Plateau de la Crau. To get there, leave St. Remy on the D571 direction Eyragues/Avignon; turn right on the D99 (direction Noves) which you'll find at the first rondpoint (roundabout) just outside town, then pass the BricoMarche and turn left at the next rondpoint. The street will be blocked so park at the soccer field or by the school and walk up the gentle hill about 10 or 15 minutes. Or, just walk from town, which takes about 20 minutes. 

For more info on Transhumance, call the St. Remy Tourist Office at +33 (0) 4 90 92 05 22. Please note that their new website is currently under construction...and see their lovely Transhumance video here.

Photos: (1) Courtesy of Philippe Donnart. (2-4) Photos courtesy of Guy Butters; see more of his work here and here. (5) Photo courtesy of weloveprovence.fr. (6) Shepherds' Lunch under the trees, courtesy of St. Remy Tourist Office. (7) This year's poster.

Van Gogh Show Now Open in Les Baux

The Carrières de Lumières (Quarries of Light) is a magical space in a vast cave-like quarry at the base of the hilltop village of Les Baux de Provence. There in the cool darkness, 100 video projectors and 30 speakers generate the choreographed movement of 2,000 images over an area of more than 75,000 square feet, onto walls as high as 45 feet and onto the floor. The sound-and-light show changes once a year and is one of the most-popular, most-visited sites in Provence.  Since its opening in 2012, Les Carrières de Lumières has attracted more than 3 million visitors.

The program always features an artist or group of artists, usually--but not always--with a connection to Provence. The newest show, which opened March 1st, is already attracting record numbers (with the tourist season not anywhere near full swing), so management strongly suggests booking a time slot online, which you can do in English here. The show runs until January 5, 2020.

Van Gogh: Starry Night retraces the intense life of the tormented Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh (1853–1890), who during the last ten years of his life, painted more than 2,000 canvasses.

The same show is currently on view at the Atelier des Lumieres in Paris, the sister venue to the Carrières des Lumieres which opened in 2018. Both are operated by Culturespaces, which manages many of the country's leading monuments, museums and art centers.

The Van Gogh show and it's much-larger-than-life scale "evoke the artist’s boundless, chaotic, and poetic interior world."  Visitors experience the various phases of his life—including time spent in Paris, Arles and St. Rémy—through sunny landscapes, night scenes, portraits and still lifes. Van Gogh’s immense oeuvre—which radically evolved over the years--are projected on a continuous loop, choreographed to a soundtrack that ranges from Brahms and Vivaldi to Nina Simone, Miles Davis and Janis Joplin. For a video taste of the show, click here.

As in years past, the main program is followed by a shorter one. This year, each showing of Van Gogh will be followed by Dreamed Japan: Images of the Floating World, offering "a journey into the Japan of the collective imagination—the Japan of the geishas, samurai warriors, and spirits." The production was inspired by the Japanese prints that began to circulate in Europe in the second half of the 19th century, when trade opened up between the West and Japan. The discovery of Japanese art had a profound effect on Western art: the painting of the Impressionists and the avant-garde artists but also on the decorative arts, music, and dance. Van Gogh gave free reign to his interest in Japonisme. In Paris, he studied and bought Japanese prints; the Land of the Rising Sun influenced his use of line, color and composition. In Provence, he told his brother Théo that "everything has become Japanese in the southern light." This production highlights Van Gogh’s fascination with Japan and is being called "a contemplative journey into the environment of the masters of Japanese prints."

Something new this year: four special evenings, called "Les Soirées Van Gogh." On May 30 & 31 and July 24 & 25, from 8 pm to Midnight, you can see the show, hear commentary from a guide (in French only) dine on site and enjoy the Gipsy/Gitane band News Flamenco, composed of four guitarist/singers and a dancer. Tickets to Les Soirées are 29€ or 47€ (with the Provencal dinner): an anchoïade, a bull estouffade (a red wine stew),  a cheese course and a lemon meringue "caissette."  The dinner will be served in the Espace Picasso and the Cafe des Carrières will be open all evening; picnic baskets will also be available and need to be ordered ahead of time. Buy your tickets on the Carrières site here.

For those who may have missed previous years' shows or want to see them again, the program called Les Intégrales des Carrières repeats three of them, all in one evening...ten times during the season.This year's dates for Les Intégrales are Aug 7 & 8, 14 & 15, and September 13 & 14, 20 & 21, 27 & 28. On these evenings the entry fee is 24€ and tickets must be purchased in advance. The doors open at 7:30 and the shows start at 8:30. This year the program will feature "Picasso and the Spanish Masters" (2018), "Chagall: Midsummer Nights Dreams" (2016) and "Klimt and Vienna: A Century of Gold and Colors" (2014). For more info, click here.

The Carrières de Lumières are located in the Val d’Enfer, a stone's throw from the hilltop village of Les Baux. The quarries here first produced white limestone, used in the construction of the village and its château. In 1821, aluminum ore bauxite was discovered here by geologist Pierre Berthier, who named it after the village. In 1935, economic competition from modern materials led to the quarries' closure. Dramatic and otherworldly looking, the area has inspired artists of all sorts; it provided the setting for Dante’s Divine Comedy and Gounod created his opera Mireille here. Later, Cocteau came to film The Testament of Orpheus in these very quarries. The Carrières du Val d’Enfer have been awarded Natural Monument status in France. 

Formerly known as the Cathedrale des Images, this particular quarry was closed in 2011 and re-opened (after a €2 million re-do) as the Carrières de Lumières the following year. For a look at all the shows since then, click here.

As in years past, you can definitely just show up at the Carrieres and pay your admission fee then. But to avoid long lines, sell-out crowds and waits of up to an hour, it's strongly advised that you buy your tickets online here. Adult tickets to the Carrières  are €13, seniors (65 and up) are €12; reduced rate for students is €11, and kids under 7 are free. There are also family rates and combined-visit prices (for the Carrières, the Chateau des Baux and the Musée Yves  Brayer) on the website, along with opening hours, directions and much more. 

Carrières de Lumières 

Route de Maillane  

13520 Les Baux de Provence 

Tel: +33 4 90 54 47 37

carrieres-lumieres.com

Photos: (1) The Van Gogh show has been wildly popular since it opened in March so management now advises booking online rather than just ambling in. (2) On four special evenings, the Carrières will host Les Soirées Van Gogh, with viewings of the show, a talk, a Provencal dinner for those who want it and a Gipsy/Flamenco band.  (3) A video taste of Starry Night. (4-8) Four of the images you'll see in the show. (9, 10) Two shots from the short feature Dreamed Japan, which follows the main show. (11, 12) Last year's Picasso show will be reprised, along with the Chagall and Klimt shows, on ten nights this season. Special tickets are required. (13) The old bauxite quarry in daylight. The geologist who first discovered aluminum ore here named it after the village. (14) One section of the vast space is often lit beautifully for private parties and other events. (15) One of my favorite photos of the village of Les Baux, taken by Philippe Clairo. (16) Based on the success of the Carrières de Lumières, Culturespaces opened the Atelier des Lumieres in Paris in April 2018, in a former foundry in the 11th arrondissement. The Van Gogh show is playing there too.

For general info about Les Baux including upcoming events, click here.

Want to spend the night in a Roman quarry? Sure you do! Then check out this very cool rental property in the Luberon. 

Volunteers Wanted to Restore Medieval Site

If you're thinking of visiting Provence next year, here's a way to learn new skills, give something back, leave your mark on an ancient village and meet people from all over the world.

Since 1969, the international non-profit volunteer program La Sabranenque has been devoted to the safeguarding and restoration of traditional rural architecture in Southern France. They're now accepting applications for summer 2019, to work at the medieval Provencale site and village called Saint Victor la Coste. La Sabranenque hosts 150 to 200 participants of all ages and nationalities annually. No previous restoration work is required but you must be at least 18; the oldest volunteer so far was 81.

Saint Victor la Coste is a picturesque village of roughly 1900 people in a beautiful setting 30 km northwest of Avignon. At the foot of a hill dominated by a medieval castle, the village overlooks a small vineyard-covered plain, with the Rhone Valley in the distance. The territory has been inhabited for several millennia; neolithic and Bronze Age artifacts have been found and several known Roman sites are nearby. Once part of the medieval domain of the Sabran family, vassals to the Count of Toulouse, it's known today for its historic buildings (including an 11th century church and a 13th century fort) and traditional rural village lifestyle.

The re-construction of the large structures in the hamlet is now done. This summer's projects include additional stonework tasks (uncovering and securing structural vestiges, improving dry stone terraces, etc.), establishing gardens and building a shelter for small wildlife.

Six-day volunteer sessions run Monday to Saturday, from June 3 to September 28. A fee of 300€ per week covers lodging (double occupancy, in traditional houses restored by La Sabranenque), all meals and activities. The food is Provençal family-style, featuring local vegetables and fruit, traditional cheeses, bakery-fresh breads and local wine. If you wish to stay two or more weeks, you can use your room and the kitchen over the weekend. There are ten participants maximum per session.

Volunteers work on the site in the morning and are also expected to participate in everyday activities such as kitchen work. Afternoons are free to explore and relax, with some historic tours and guided nature walks provided.

For more info, visit the Sabranenque sites here and here. Or email: info@sabranenque.com.

Photos: Scenes from summers past at La Sabranenque.

You're Invited: Thanksgiving in France 2018

Because I totally live to please you, once again I've rounded up a great selection of American Thanksgiving celebrations here in the South of France and in Paris. Who attends these gala soirées? Local expats of course, but also hungry French folks and other Europeans, travelers, house guests...whomever! All nationalities wanted and welcome! 

Over the years, many of my French friends have told me they love the idea of celebrating this American holiday...to meet new people, to sample unusual foods, to learn the history and traditions. At a friend's Thanksgiving in Provence a few years back, the Frenchman to my left told me he loved how the various dishes were served all at once, all on one plate, rather than in courses. Another said he was looking forward to his first taste of cranberry sauce, which he called red fruits jam. 

While the literal translation is Action de Grâce, most French people just call it Thanksgiving...except for my friend Philippe who refers to it as Merci Donnant, which he says "means absolutely nothing at all." 

Some of these feasts listed below are hosted by groups and clubs, who love non-members to join in; others happen in restaurants or hotels.  If you plan to be in Paris for the holiday rather than down south, I've included a number of celebrations there as well...and two links to help you find others. 

I’ve only listed the Thanksgivings that still had space available, as of today. Book soon because most have limited capacity and fill up.

For those of you hosting your own Thanksgiving or sharing in the food prep, I've provided three sources for ingredients such as fresh cranberries and cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, sweet potatoes, stuffing mix and more. When it comes to the big juicy bird, the Paris shop called The Real McCoy sells them both fresh and already roasted; more info about that is below. Elsewhere in France, most butchers will be happy to order a delicious dinde, if given enough notice, and some might even roast it for you. Just remember that the turkeys here in France are smaller than in the US...and don't forget leftovers!

If you're hosting or know of a Thanksgiving celebration that's not listed here, email me the info (provenceblog@aol.com) and I'll happily add it. 

And finally, while we're on the subject, I'm sending a very heartfelt thank you to all of you: for reading and supporting my blog...for sharing it with your friends....for commenting on the stories you particularly enjoy. I wish you all the most joyous and delicious Merci Donnant, wherever you plan to spend it!

THANKSGIVING ON THE COTE D'AZUR

The American Club of the Riviera's Thanksgiving is a gala, annual affair...large, elegant and extremely popular. This year it's in the Salon Belle Epoque at the Hôtel Hermitage in Monte Carlo on Thursday Nov. 22, starting with a 12:30 Champagne reception, followed by a luncheon feast of butternut squash velouté, stuffed turkey, apple and pumpkin tart. Book quickly as this event always sells out; 150 people are expected and it's first come, first served with priority going to member families. Last call for reservation payments is November 13^th so you’ll have to hustle. All the info is on the ACR website here. 

MonacoUSA will host its annual Thanksgiving dinner in a private room at StarsNBars (Monaco) on Thursday Nov. 22, with the bar opening at 6:00 pm and dinner service starting at 7 pm. Seating is family style at communal tables. The menu: Stuffed turkey with cranberry sauce, peas, creamed onions, sweet potatoes, corn on the cob and cornbread. Desserts will be apple tart, pumpkin pie, pecan pie and brownies. Also included: a glass of wine, beer or soft drink, bottled water and espresso. On the large screen, you can see the Macy’s Parade, American football and a special JFK tribute. Cost: 50€ members, 55€ non members, 25€ for kids under 12. Space is limited, you must reserve through MonacoUSA and payment in advance is required; no payment at the door and no walk-ins allowed, sorry! All details are on the website here.

The MonacoUSA party just above is open to everyone but for those who don’t want to join the group, the all-you can-eat Thanksgiving buffet will be available at StarsNBars starting at 7 pm. Pricing is 45€ for adults and 20€ for kids, excluding drinks. The restaurant will also be serving its regular menu that evening. And turkey will be available as the plat du jour at lunch, starting at noon, for 18€ including a drink and dessert. To book: + 377 9797 9595. Questions: info@starsnbars.com.

The Riviera Chapter of Democrats Abroad invites you to a festive Thanksgiving pot luck at Holy Trinity Church Hall, at 11 rue de la Buffa in Nice, on Nov. 22 from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. It’s open to members, Americans in the region and accompanying guests. Due to the size of the hall they can welcome just 35 people so you must RSVP. DA will provide the turkey and asks all guests to bring a prepared salad, vegetable or dessert to be shared. (Sorry, no cooking facilities available on-site). The closest parking is Palais de la Méditerranée or Grimaldi and there are several bus stops in walking distance. For a map and details, click here. For more info, to RSVP or questions: dafrance.riviera@gmail.com.

THANKSGIVING IN PROVENCE

Once again my friend Jon Chiri, an American chef with 20+ years experience working in Provence, will offer a Thanksgiving lunch at Cuisine Centr'Halles, his cafe and cooking school at Les Halles, the wonderful indoor food market in Avignon. On Thursday Nov. 22, Jon invites you to join his family for a special holiday lunch from 11:30 am to 1:30 pm. (The market officially closes at 1:30 pm so be sure to seated by 1 pm latest.) The Thanksgiving Plat du Jour (turkey with Jon's version of accoutrements) will be 24€ ...or 32€ with pumpkin pie. Wine and soft drinks are extra. To reserve: contact@jonathanchiri.com or +33 (0)6 46 89 85 33.

The Anglo-American Group of Provence welcomes the community to its annual family-oriented  Thanksgiving in Aix "with a spirit of appreciation for all that we share."  The party is Sunday, Nov. 25 at 4 pm (aperitif) and 5 pm (dinner) at Restaurant Le Verguetier, 7 chemin d'Eguilles in Celony (Aix), across from the Maison de Ste-Victoire. They'll have all the traditional foods: turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans, sweet potatoes, pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Cost: Members are 29€ adults, 10€ (age 6 to 12) and 6€ (under 5).  Non members are 37€ adults and 18€ kids under 12. To book: Please specify number of adults and kids (with ages) and send check payable to AAGP to: Mari-Luz Saboui, 25 Chemin de Masse, 13710 Fuveau. Checks must be received by Nov 19. Questions? Email to: bobkeltz@aol.com. 

Biocoop - La Coumpagnie in Aix will host two Thanksgivings on Thursday Nov. 22. The first is a lunch which owner Rick Harrison says is "mostly for our curious French clientele - and it's always our biggest lunch turnout of the year!" The lunch will be less than 20€ pp.  (To reserve, see below.) Then comes the main event: a dinner starting at 7:30 pm. "We have a wide diversity of Americans, French and English people excited to attend," Rick says. As they did last year, the Marseille Chapter of Democrats Abroad will have their own space at the event and 40 to 50 of their members are likely to attend.  The meal will be 100% organic, 0% GMOs and 100% homemade from American family recipes! The evening starts with spiced wine and appetizers (stuffed mushrooms, deviled eggs), then moves on to turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied yams, green bean casserole (with cream of mushroom soup...yes!), pumpkin and pecan pies and a classic cheesecake. Prices are 29€ adults and 19€ kids under 12; wine and beer are available for purchase. Reservations required for both lunch and dinner: +33 (0)6 81 34 85 74, rick@biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr. 

Near Forcalquier, the restaurant Le Bistrot de Pierrerue in Pierrerue celebrates its annual Thanksgiving on Friday Nov. 23 at 8 pm. On the menu: an amuse bouche, brined and roasted turkey with dressing (made from bio sausage and chestnuts), homemade gravy and cranberry chutney, mashed potatoes, roasted local Brussels sprouts,  pumpkin pie and chocolate pumpkin-seed torte with vanilla ice cream. Price is 25€ per person, without drinks. To book: +33 (0)4 92 75 33 00, maryvonne.kutsch@orange.fr.

At the restaurant L'Epicerie de Cecile in Beaucaire, chef/owner Cécile Guillo is all fired up to host her annual Thanksgiving fête, Thursday Nov. 22 at 8 pm. Seating is communal at large tables for 12. The price isn’t quite confirmed but expect to pay 25 to 30€ for dinner (with a couple glasses of wine) and live music (a pianist and a singer performing American hits from the 70s and 80s). Cecile is also happy to offer her traditional Thanksgiving meal on another day for any group that wants to book it, for a minimum of 15 people. To reserve: +33 (0)7 85 40 38 20.

THANKSGIVING IN PARIS

There seem to be more and more Thanksgiving celebrations in Paris restaurants each year, ranging from the very-casual one at the Hard Rock Cafe (11:30 am to 11:30 pm on Nov. 22, 36€ pp, click here to book) to the very-posh one at Ralph's in Ralph Lauren's elaborately appointed store on the Blvd. St.-Germain (dinner Nov 22, with a set menu at 135€, reservations +33 (0)1 44 77 76 00). 

This year, the restaurant Sunday in Soho (at 7 rue Saint Marc in the 2^nd arrondissement) will offer Thanksgiving for three nights (Nov. 22, 23, 24), with seatings at 7 pm and 9 pm. The 45€ price includes a glass of Champagne or the house cocktail. Reservations are online only and the owners say “Make sure to bring your appetite (and maybe some stretch pants) because our Thanksgiving feast is no joke!!”

For a few more Paris restaurants, hotels and wine bars serving Thanksgiving, click here and here.

If you want to join a group rather than do your own thing in a Parisian restaurant, sign up for Thanksgiving dinner on Tuesday Nov. 20 with the American University Clubs of France. For the 3rd (and probably last) year, they're partnering with the famous Ladurée, known for elegant sweets since 1862, and will be dining in one of Maison Ladurée’s private salons with views on the Champs Elysées. You can have a drink there before, and the dinner officially starts at 7:30 in the restaurant, which is privatized for the occasion. Everyone gets a small gift to take home. Prices range from €72 to €94 pp and all the info is on the website here. Questions? contact@aucfrance.com.

Another club,  The American Club of Paris will hold its annual Thanksgiving at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Paris 3ème) on Thursday, Nov. 22 at 7:30 pm. The evening includes pre-dinner Champagne, an elegant Thanksgiving dinner, a private visit to the Museum's collections and temporary exhibit (including Country Life: Masterpieces from the Mellon Collection) and after-dinner drinks in the Club Room. The dress code is evening attire/black tie optional and roughly 50 people are expected. Members 150€; non-members and guests 175€. All the info is here. Questions? contact@americanclubparis.org.

The popular Thanksgiving cooking classes at the cooking school La Cuisine Paris have already sold out...but they have another option for foodie fun that day. Called a Festive Food Tour this “class” explores not American but rather French holiday classics with a guided walk and tastings of wine, cheese and foie gras. All the info is here. The timing is 3 to 5:30 pm Thursday Nov. 22 (leaving you time for Thanksgiving dinner elsewhere) and the price is 110€ pp. For more info or to reserve: +33 (0)1 40 51 78 18, contact@lacuisineparis.com.

WHERE TO BUY SUPPLIES

MyAmericanMarket.com sells lots of things you’ll likely need to prepare your holiday feast: cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin, cornbread mix, stuffing, gravy, corn syrup and more. They also have ingredients and treats for other holidays, too, such as eggnog and candy canes. They are 100% online and will deliver anywhere in Europe. The company uses various couriers but plan to order by Nov. 14 to get your goodies in time. Specific Thanksgiving foods are on a special page here. For info: contact@myamericanmarket.com.

The Franco-American owners of My Little America, Todd and Anthony, hail from Ohio and Brittany and launched their mail-order business “to make it possible for Americans and French people who have lived in the US to find their favorite foods easily, wherever they might live....and to help French people discover these ‘new’ and ‘exotic’ products." Today they import a wide range of American foods and ship them throughout Europe; mailing is free within metropolitan France for orders over 99€ and under 10 kilos. For Thanksgiving they sell cranberry sauce (whole berry and jellied), stuffing mix, turkey gravy, corn muffin mix, corn syrup (light and dark), graham crackers, canned pumpkin, cut sweet potatoes and more. See their Thanksgiving selection here. They also sell classics such as Kraft Mac & Cheese, Toll-House Chocolate Chips, A-1 Steak Sauce, Jif Peanut Butter, A&W Root Beer and much more. Questions: contact@mylittleamerica.com.

In Paris, The Real McCoy is the Parisian go-to for American foods, particularly at holiday time.  In their shop (no mail order) they’re selling fresh farm-bred turkeys...or they’ll even roast and package it for you with stuffing and roasting juices. (Be sure to order at least a few days ahead.) Their roast turkeys average 5 kilos each; they request a 30€ deposit and then charge 11.50€ per kilo, bringing the total to around 80€. The Real McCoy also sells pecan and pumpkin pies, carrot cakes and cheesecakes...plus a wide selection of Thanksgiving products such as fresh cranberries and canned cranberry sauce, stuffing mix, pie fillings, yams, turkey bags, basters and more. They’re located at:  194 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 45 56 00, us.food@wanadoo.fr. No website but find them on Facebook here. 

Above: The much-loved, often-parodied painting is Norman Rockwell's "Freedom from Want" from 1942. Everyone in it was a Rockwell family member or friend; they were photographed individually and painted into the scene. Learn more about the painting and artist here.